making shatter that actually SHATTERS

I have heard many different methods of making shatter that is stable at room temperature and shatters without bending, and that it can also just be a strain dependent situation. I will post my current process of making BHO - I am resulting in a slightly under 10% yield, using only trim/sugar leaf and small airy popcorns that were unfit for dispensaries. I am getting great color/clarity/smell - have yet to taste it as I am on a smoking break for another month, but reviews are good. Only problem is I am getting a pull and snap consistency. I am trying to find a reliable method of making shatter that actually will snap and SHATTER at room temp, like glass.

Currently running broken down trim/popcorn at about 1 can per oz of material, in a glass extraction tube, densely but not packed to the MAX pressure. Then putting into a electric skillet holding hot water (not boiling but steaming/simmering) floating my pyrex for maybe 3 or 4 minutes, until most reaction stops. (I think this might be where I am exposing the wax to too high of temps, going to do another run keeping this heat bath temps at around 100 degrees.) Then scraping and transferring to parchment - inserting into vac chamber and vaccing at -28inhg sometimes it gets all the way to -29.9inhg at ROOM temperature. After wax has muffined and popped as much as it will (usually only about 5 minutes) i then add heat to the extraction chamber keeping the temperature around 100-105 degrees. Sometimes i have caught it getting to about 112 degrees but not for very long, I am refining my method to be able to reliable sustain it at temps 98-105 degrees. It will sit in this vacuumed and heated state for about 24 hours, then releasing vacuum and letting it sit on heat for another 12 to 24 hours.

As I said the result is a very light pretty clear honey/amber colored glassy wax that is pull and snap consistency at room temperature. I am still new to the extracting process although I have done much research and have found varying reports. Any critique/info is greatly appreciated, but please be respectable.

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first picture is just holding it, second one is holding it up to the light, it shattered because it was in the freezer. Thanks again for the input everyone. I strive in making quality healthy medicine
 

rick ratlin

Perpetual Farmer
Supporter
308
93
I'm no expert, but after extraction, I winterize, then evaporate, always in a thin film. After that, I'll sit the dish out covered with a filter of sorts to dry completely. After that then into the vacuum chamber, thin film of course. That is usually the only way it will get snapping for me.
 
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I do the same thing. I will blast into the pyrex dish let the tane cook off on the griddle until the reactions stop then i add 99% iso how much depends on how much product you used. if you can estimate how much oil you produced its about 1oz alcohol to 1g of oil. i use a butter knife to scrape and swirl the iso while still on the griddle. Place it in the freezer for a few days i usually do 2 days in the freezer then a dry ice bath for 4 hours strain through 3 unbleached coffee filter while still in the freezer. get a pyrex with water going set the griddle to 150 which will keep your water around 135 and the emtpy pyrex around 110-115. pour the iso into the empty dish with a fan blowing over it and let it go until all the iso is evaped scrape it and turn the griddle down to about 130 keeping your purge chamber around 110 final step is just to purge that shit till is stops moving. gives me great shatter every time even at room temp it snaps right off to where im losing product bc it flies around the room
 
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i also only use nugs for my runs never trim or popcorn buds not sure if that makes much of a difference
 
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Are you purging a thin film, or a glob? Thin film is the way to go. Also, you can add a little more heat while vacuum purging, as you can get the oil to about 115f in order to keep a level of a viscosity that will allow the bubbles to easily 'pop'. And just because you're applying ~100f heat to your vacuum chamber, doesn't mean your oil is actually anywhere near 100f. When I first started blasting, I was only letting my chamber reach about 100-105, until I saw GrayWolf mention he likes to get his oil to about 115.

Also, I like to get my chamber up to temp before pulling the vacuum. I have the chamber nice and warm, place in the oil inside the chamber and allow it to warm up a bit before pulling the vacuum. The reason why you're only seeing the oil react for about 5 minutes is because you don't have any heat applied. Your oil should be slowly reacting, up to 115f under vacuum, for a long period of time.

Are you pulling a vacuum, shutting the valve and turning off your vacuum pump, then allowing the evacuated chamber to just 'sit' with a small amount of heat applied for this 12-24 hours? You can indeed shut the valve and give your pump a rest periodically... but just making sure you're not only evacuating for this 5 minute period, and then allowing the oil to just 'set' in a very slightly heated chamber for the next 12-24 hours.

And why do you allow it sit on heat for an additional 12-24 hours after purging? Just curious.

I've never noticed 'glass' consistency shatter to be strain dependent, but I have noticed that older material will be slightly more pliable at room temp. Newer material seems to have a little better snapping/glass consistency.

I don't consider myself an expert, and I can't say any of the reasons I mentioned specifically are why you're not getting your desired results, but I can tell you that I get very consistent, low ppm, terpy, rock hard shatter at room temperature with the methods above...

Oh, and did I mention thin film? :)

Cheers.
 
even at room temp it snaps right off to where im losing product bc it flies around the room
haha, in case anyone doesn't know, you can just do a super quick flame swipe on a metal dabber for it to cut in like butter, makes it much easier to cut tiny little squares out for relative dab consistency.
 
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I've just been putting it in the silicone jar and stabbing the shit out of with the lid covering it most of the way gives me alot of perfect dab size pieces without introducing heat over and over again it could start turning it to crumble if your head stash is big enough
 
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If your shatter still sappy either because the material wasn't dry enough before you ran it dude or too high temperatures or maybe even just moisture during the process somehow getting into the oil
 

Capulator

likes to smell trees.
Supporter
6,091
313
Shatter is carboxylic acid. It starts out that way, and softens through processing.

If the starting material is still young, we reliably get shatter by purging at 115F and -29.5" Hg until the solvent bubbles stop.
How long does it normally take for the paddy to stop bubbling?
 
depends.. on how thin its spread.. honestly.. I been getting 20-30 grams done in 36 hours max .. perfect .. retains lots of smell and taste..

the trick is.. allowing it to muffin out the first few pulls .. and releasing.. allowing your pump to max out.. for a few .. and then releasing.. do that until the reaction is a lot less.. then pull it out.. put a piece of parchment ontop.. put in freezer for a minute.. pull out flip it over.. pull parchment off. put back into the chamber.. do the same process over again..

then flip 1 more time.. and pull to 115F and -29.5hg.. and allow to sit until most reaction stops.. flip.. and repeat.. until no reaction..

I pull it out.. take a dabber.. and put flame to it.. once its not fire dancing .. and sparkling.. I put it in for 1 more run.. and let it sit.. 1 hour.. if I have more to purge then pull it out to cool. if not.. I just allow it to cool in the chamber.. so its easy to pop off the parchment and into its container.


once my butane gets in. im going to pull down one of my outdoor plants to try a so called LIVE EXTRACT.. my boys in Colorado keep telling me.. they are seeing up to 20% Terpenes.. in there concentates.. they say its SAP for sure.. but the taste and smell is worth the hassel..

people also gotta realize.. that shatter isn't the best out.. lol. more terpenes have been found in wax and taffy like shatter.. then in shatter..

I mean .. theres this shit going around right now.. live resin . in my area.. its soooo sappy .. but the smell is like the smell of your buds in flower. amazing. thte taste is great..

but if u do it WRONG ull end up with a green . nasty extract..

so we shall see.
 
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No, but it will help you build a vac. essentially and dewax, you can build a pot for less than 250$ my man and it works like a charm.
dont know what a buckner funnel is will have to look it up..but ur sayin if i use 1 i can get shatter without a vac?
I think this guy is more yached out more than SRV but....heres a helpful video. He rambles alot but knows his shit. Much love
 
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I have heard many different methods of making shatter that is stable at room temperature and shatters without bending, and that it can also just be a strain dependent situation. I will post my current process of making BHO - I am resulting in a slightly under 10% yield, using only trim/sugar leaf and small airy popcorns that were unfit for dispensaries. I am getting great color/clarity/smell - have yet to taste it as I am on a smoking break for another month, but reviews are good. Only problem is I am getting a pull and snap consistency. I am trying to find a reliable method of making shatter that actually will snap and SHATTER at room temp, like glass.

Currently running broken down trim/popcorn at about 1 can per oz of material, in a glass extraction tube, densely but not packed to the MAX pressure. Then putting into a electric skillet holding hot water (not boiling but steaming/simmering) floating my pyrex for maybe 3 or 4 minutes, until most reaction stops. (I think this might be where I am exposing the wax to too high of temps, going to do another run keeping this heat bath temps at around 100 degrees.) Then scraping and transferring to parchment - inserting into vac chamber and vaccing at -28inhg sometimes it gets all the way to -29.9inhg at ROOM temperature. After wax has muffined and popped as much as it will (usually only about 5 minutes) i then add heat to the extraction chamber keeping the temperature around 100-105 degrees. Sometimes i have caught it getting to about 112 degrees but not for very long, I am refining my method to be able to reliable sustain it at temps 98-105 degrees. It will sit in this vacuumed and heated state for about 24 hours, then releasing vacuum and letting it sit on heat for another 12 to 24 hours.

As I said the result is a very light pretty clear honey/amber colored glassy wax that is pull and snap consistency at room temperature. I am still new to the extracting process although I have done much research and have found varying reports. Any critique/info is greatly appreciated, but please be respectable.

View attachment 415800 View attachment 415801

first picture is just holding it, second one is holding it up to the light, it shattered because it was in the freezer. Thanks again for the input everyone. I strive in making quality healthy medicine
been playin this 4 a minute so I be ready to teach.
your method is sound and you are right keep your temps under 100. i prefer to watch the last few minute of boil off closely ( hot plate, water vessel, around 95-100f) then transfer and vac at temps between 85-- 95 f . a stainless steal blow chamber will let you get a better pack and better pressure. Coffee filters are shit, sorry, 50 micron stainless screen are the way to go. LOW TEMPS == SHATTER.

other methods involve tens of thousands of dollars in equipment and still rely on a basic premise.
cold = shatter as temps rise you get a taffy(100 - 120)
then a thick goo (120-140)
then oil(to f#@kin hot).
add water and you get a crumbly waxy mess that never dries out.
yes winterizing with ever clear will work but is not necessary.

Peace and good luck.
 
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