Mikedin’s Living Soil Adventure

[Graham.Bagg]

Worm bins are great, and easy, it will just take about 6 months to get to a point where it starts paying off. I am running 3 bins and 2 buckets currently in basement. I can control inputs to have a veg and a bloom “formula”

 

[Mikedin]

Worm bins are great, and easy, it will just take about 6 months to get to a point where it starts paying off. I am running 3 bins and 2 buckets currently in basement. I can control inputs to have a veg and a bloom “formula”

That’s my plan! I’m considering worm bins in the beds but we’ll see I’ve been following some other people who do it and it seems like an awesome idea

I do want to set up large work bins and start producing my own EWC for my garden as well though

 

[Mikedin]

Been following some YouTube series on how to make EWC as well as worm breeding

 

[Mikedin]

Worm bins are great, and easy, it will just take about 6 months to get to a point where it starts paying off. I am running 3 bins and 2 buckets currently in basement. I can control inputs to have a veg and a bloom “formula”

Hit me up with what info you have! I’d like to get something started but you having a small scale setup already going I’m really interested in how you have your process set up

 

[Graham.Bagg]

I use both the double bucket (or more) bucket method, as well as the storage tote method.

The double bucket, is in my opinion the easiest to start with, and then once you establish a colony, then you can split them and start a tote. A general rule is under ideal circumstances, populations will double every 90 days. Also, earthworms will only populate what the environment can sustain.

For the double bucket, you leave one bucket untouched, you can add a cheap plastic spigot if you desire. That will be the bottom bucket, and collect all the liquid, so it needs to be drained frequently. At least once a week. I mix that juice with straight up water and use it to feed as well.

Into the untouched bucket, add another buck and drill many many many 3/16-5/16” holes in to the bottom of bucket. Big enough for worms to travel through but not castings, and not so small that the jagged edge of plastic can cut their flesh. Around the top of the bucket drill little 1/8” (or smaller) holes to allow for airflow. I actually do this to 2 buckets. In addition, on the top bucket you can cut a square cut out and silicone a piece of screen over it to allow air flow, but no bugs.

I am fortunate enough to have a summer place in the middle of Amish country, so I get a ton of organic pesticide free produce during the grow season, and can in the fall. I save 100% of my fruit and veggie scraps for either cooking stock, worm bin food, or outdoor compost pile. Your garden will keep you plenty stocked with fuel.

I cut the scraps for the worm bin to about 1” squares and freeze them before I add them to bins. It facilitates organic breakdown. Worms DO NOT eat the food scraps, they eat the slime and crap that forms during the decomposition of organic waste.

I save all my Amazon boxes and circulars that come in mail on newsprint. Do not use glossy paper. They use soy based ink in printing, so

Shred all your papers and boxes to use as bedding. I fill both buckets that have holes with bedding. Only the bottom bucket with holes gets the food and worms. The top bucket is just bedding, and a place to escape if conditions in bottom bucket get too wet or overpopulated. They will also naturally migrate up once the bedding and food source has been converted. When that happens, the bottom bucket is “harvested” the top becomes the bottom, and the harvested bucket becomes top, filled with new bedding. Both those buckets sit inside the untouched bucket like a tower.


During the summer, I also have a 5 gallon bucket that has 1/2-3/4” holes drilled all over it. Looks like a turkey fryer basket. I dig a hole near garden, and put some cardboard and food scraps in there. It will turn in to a natural worm bin, where the worms come and go as they please, and leave you black gold in return. Very similar to what you are proposing in beds.

I got my initial worms from Jim’s.

Of course right as they sent them, we went in to single digits deep freeze. The worms arrived a day earlier than the tracking (thanks usps) and so they sat on the porch for 6 hours before I got home. They were all dead. I called Jim, he asked for a pic, and 2 day aired me replacements (after deep freeze ended). Stand up service.

As long as you bury the food scraps deep enough under the bedding there is no smell, and the critters living in EWC pretty much take care of any other insects. I will occasionally get a fruit fly or 2 if I phone it in and don’t dig all the way to bottom to refill their food supply, but that’s on me being lazy. I absolutely would not have them in house if they stunk or attracted bugs. They would probably do fine in an attached garage, as long as it stays above freezing.

 

[Captspaulding]

I use both the double bucket (or more) bucket method, as well as the storage tote method.

The double bucket, is in my opinion the easiest to start with, and then once you establish a colony, then you can split them and start a tote. A general rule is under ideal circumstances, populations will double every 90 days. Also, earthworms will only populate what the environment can sustain.

For the double bucket, you leave one bucket untouched, you can add a cheap plastic spigot if you desire. That will be the bottom bucket, and collect all the liquid, so it needs to be drained frequently. At least once a week. I mix that juice with straight up water and use it to feed as well.

Into the untouched bucket, add another buck and drill many many many 3/16-5/16” holes in to the bottom of bucket. Big enough for worms to travel through but not castings, and not so small that the jagged edge of plastic can cut their flesh. Around the top of the bucket drill little 1/8” (or smaller) holes to allow for airflow. I actually do this to 2 buckets. In addition, on the top bucket you can cut a square cut out and silicone a piece of screen over it to allow air flow, but no bugs.

I am fortunate enough to have a summer place in the middle of Amish country, so I get a ton of organic pesticide free produce during the grow season, and can in the fall. I save 100% of my fruit and veggie scraps for either cooking stock, worm bin food, or outdoor compost pile. Your garden will keep you plenty stocked with fuel.

I cut the scraps for the worm bin to about 1” squares and freeze them before I add them to bins. It facilitates organic breakdown. Worms DO NOT eat the food scraps, they eat the slime and crap that forms during the decomposition of organic waste.

I save all my Amazon boxes and circulars that come in mail on newsprint. Do not use glossy paper. They use soy based ink in printing, so

Shred all your papers and boxes to use as bedding. I fill both buckets that have holes with bedding. Only the bottom bucket with holes gets the food and worms. The top bucket is just bedding, and a place to escape if conditions in bottom bucket get too wet or overpopulated. They will also naturally migrate up once the bedding and food source has been converted. When that happens, the bottom bucket is “harvested” the top becomes the bottom, and the harvested bucket becomes top, filled with new bedding. Both those buckets sit inside the untouched bucket like a tower.


During the summer, I also have a 5 gallon bucket that has 1/2-3/4” holes drilled all over it. Looks like a turkey fryer basket. I dig a hole near garden, and put some cardboard and food scraps in there. It will turn in to a natural worm bin, where the worms come and go as they please, and leave you black gold in return. Very similar to what you are proposing in beds.

I got my initial worms from Jim’s.

Of course right as they sent them, we went in to single digits deep freeze. The worms arrived a day earlier than the tracking (thanks usps) and so they sat on the porch for 6 hours before I got home. They were all dead. I called Jim, he asked for a pic, and 2 day aired me replacements (after deep freeze ended). Stand up service.

As long as you bury the food scraps deep enough under the bedding there is no smell, and the critters living in EWC pretty much take care of any other insects. I will occasionally get a fruit fly or 2 if I phone it in and don’t dig all the way to bottom to refill their food supply, but that’s on me being lazy. I absolutely would not have them in house if they stunk or attracted bugs. They would probably do fine in an attached garage, as long as it stays above freezing.

Love the shit outta this.
Great read.

 

[Graham.Bagg]

In addition to the organic waste, I save all my coffee grounds, the shells from eggs that I cook for dogs breakfast and any seafood with shells (clams, shrimp, lobster, oysters etc.)

The egg shells and crab/lobster/shrimp all get pulverized into powder using a coffee grinder I picked up at thrift shop. The shells get placed in an empty dog food bag (because it’s a heavy duty synthetic “burlap” material, and then run over with my truck repeatedly. This breaks them up in to little bits, and some powder. The powder is added to worm bin.

The worms need something finely ground but “coarse” to help them aid in digestion.

The coffee grounds still contain a little bit of caffeine, which is a neurotoxin to most insects.

Probably the biggest learning curve is learning what inputs to add and when. Too much of one thing can cause swings in PH, and become detrimental.

Also they won’t eat much at first, but after population boom, it seams they eat more than me.

 

[Natep]

Cook your egg shells till they are brown. Then dissolve them in white vinegar. Wsc. Water soluble calcium. Cook bones till black and flakey then dissolve in vinegar for wscap water soluble calcium and phosphorus.

 

[Mikedin]

I use both the double bucket (or more) bucket method, as well as the storage tote method.

The double bucket, is in my opinion the easiest to start with, and then once you establish a colony, then you can split them and start a tote. A general rule is under ideal circumstances, populations will double every 90 days. Also, earthworms will only populate what the environment can sustain.

For the double bucket, you leave one bucket untouched, you can add a cheap plastic spigot if you desire. That will be the bottom bucket, and collect all the liquid, so it needs to be drained frequently. At least once a week. I mix that juice with straight up water and use it to feed as well.

Into the untouched bucket, add another buck and drill many many many 3/16-5/16” holes in to the bottom of bucket. Big enough for worms to travel through but not castings, and not so small that the jagged edge of plastic can cut their flesh. Around the top of the bucket drill little 1/8” (or smaller) holes to allow for airflow. I actually do this to 2 buckets. In addition, on the top bucket you can cut a square cut out and silicone a piece of screen over it to allow air flow, but no bugs.

I am fortunate enough to have a summer place in the middle of Amish country, so I get a ton of organic pesticide free produce during the grow season, and can in the fall. I save 100% of my fruit and veggie scraps for either cooking stock, worm bin food, or outdoor compost pile. Your garden will keep you plenty stocked with fuel.

I cut the scraps for the worm bin to about 1” squares and freeze them before I add them to bins. It facilitates organic breakdown. Worms DO NOT eat the food scraps, they eat the slime and crap that forms during the decomposition of organic waste.

I save all my Amazon boxes and circulars that come in mail on newsprint. Do not use glossy paper. They use soy based ink in printing, so

Shred all your papers and boxes to use as bedding. I fill both buckets that have holes with bedding. Only the bottom bucket with holes gets the food and worms. The top bucket is just bedding, and a place to escape if conditions in bottom bucket get too wet or overpopulated. They will also naturally migrate up once the bedding and food source has been converted. When that happens, the bottom bucket is “harvested” the top becomes the bottom, and the harvested bucket becomes top, filled with new bedding. Both those buckets sit inside the untouched bucket like a tower.


During the summer, I also have a 5 gallon bucket that has 1/2-3/4” holes drilled all over it. Looks like a turkey fryer basket. I dig a hole near garden, and put some cardboard and food scraps in there. It will turn in to a natural worm bin, where the worms come and go as they please, and leave you black gold in return. Very similar to what you are proposing in beds.

I got my initial worms from Jim’s.

Of course right as they sent them, we went in to single digits deep freeze. The worms arrived a day earlier than the tracking (thanks usps) and so they sat on the porch for 6 hours before I got home. They were all dead. I called Jim, he asked for a pic, and 2 day aired me replacements (after deep freeze ended). Stand up service.

As long as you bury the food scraps deep enough under the bedding there is no smell, and the critters living in EWC pretty much take care of any other insects. I will occasionally get a fruit fly or 2 if I phone it in and don’t dig all the way to bottom to refill their food supply, but that’s on me being lazy. I absolutely would not have them in house if they stunk or attracted bugs. They would probably do fine in an attached garage, as long as it stays above freezing.

In addition to the organic waste, I save all my coffee grounds, the shells from eggs that I cook for dogs breakfast and any seafood with shells (clams, shrimp, lobster, oysters etc.)

The egg shells and crab/lobster/shrimp all get pulverized into powder using a coffee grinder I picked up at thrift shop. The shells get placed in an empty dog food bag (because it’s a heavy duty synthetic “burlap” material, and then run over with my truck repeatedly. This breaks them up in to little bits, and some powder. The powder is added to worm bin.

The worms need something finely ground but “coarse” to help them aid in digestion.

The coffee grounds still contain a little bit of caffeine, which is a neurotoxin to most insects.

Probably the biggest learning curve is learning what inputs to add and when. Too much of one thing can cause swings in PH, and become detrimental.

Also they won’t eat much at first, but after population boom, it seams they eat more than me.

Awesome info! Will definitely be re-reading that when I can comprehend it haha tons of cool info in there!

Cook your egg shells till they are brown. Then dissolve them in white vinegar. Wsc. Water soluble calcium. Cook bones till black and flakey then dissolve in vinegar for wscap water soluble calcium and phosphorus.

I’ve heard of the cooking the shells and disssolvong in vinegar diddnt know the bone one will have to check that out!

 

[Mikedin]

Cloner is set up and running, just watered the mothers I’ll grab clones in the morning I believe, wayyy too sore after all that shoveling haha

 

[Natep]

Do you plan on building layers in your pots? A E O horizons?

 

[Mikedin]

Do you plan on building layers in your pots? A E O horizons?

No this is all going right in the bag as is, when I get the 3x3 or 4x4 bed eventually I plan to go full homemade living soil, this is all the premade build a soil their top offering, gunna test after a year of runs with cover crop, mulching and worms, gunna do the build a soil top dresses like the craft blend and build a flower and milled sprouted barely seed and fulvic acid and a few other goodies in waiting for, then I’ll see how it all runs as is, the build a soil project director messaged me in IG and said this has been his soil favorite to run in as is since they started making an testing it so we’ll see I do plan to continue upgrading to the living soil beds but this plan was simpler to start semi l quickly and was about 3/4 of the price of hand building coots or Subcools even at about 1k total so far including the soil the bags the stands all the extra stuff I picked up, next is gunna probably be 3x of the EcoWitt WH51L deep moisture meters and the gateway seems to be the best option atm after reading tons of reviews on accuracy etc

 

[Natep]

No this is all going right in the bag as is, when I get the 3x3 or 4x4 bed eventually I plan to go full homemade living soil, this is all the premade build a soil their top offering, gunna test after a year of runs with cover crop, mulching and worms, gunna do the build a soil top dresses like the craft blend and build a flower and milled sprouted barely seed and fulvic acid and a few other goodies in waiting for, then I’ll see how it all runs as is, the build a soil project director messaged me in IG and said this has been his soil favorite to run in as is since they started making an testing it so we’ll see I do plan to continue upgrading to the living soil beds but this plan was simpler to start semi l quickly and was about 3/4 of the price of hand building coots or Subcools even at about 1k total so far including the soil the bags the stands all the extra stuff I picked up, next is gunna probably be 3x of the EcoWitt WH51L deep moisture meters and the gateway seems to be the best option atm after reading tons of reviews on accuracy etc

That is going to kick ass for you. I run the 3.0 recipe in one of my 2x4s. It just cruises along so easy. I top dress with craftblend and casting at flip and harvest. Easiest grows I’ve ever done.

 

[Natep]

Also add worms to your pots. As you defoliate throw the leaves on the pots. The worms will break down the leaves and he’ll amend your grow.

 

[Mikedin]

That is going to kick ass for you. I run the 3.0 recipe in one of my 2x4s. It just cruises along so easy. I top dress with craftblend and casting at flip and harvest. Easiest grows I’ve ever done.

That’s the plan but I picked up a smorgasbord for them to use

3.0 was the initial plan, they were sold out, diddnt wanna back down to only light, so decided in the 2/3 dominion blend and 1/3 light

Also add worms to your pots. As you defoliate throw the leaves on the pots. The worms will break down the leaves and he’ll amend your grow.

yes! That is the plan, I’ll also be starting my own worm bins but those will take a while to produce, I’ll be getting a bag of uncle Jim’s red wigglers in shortly! Planning about 20is worms per pot, I know they’ll multiply over time most say to start with 5-10 worms so I figure 20 is a good starting point lol

Gunna start building EWC based off @Graham.Bagg method posted above

 

[Natep]

I’ve kept a worm farm for the last few years. I’ve never been very serious with it. Need to put more effort towards it.

 

[Mikedin]

I’ve kept a worm farm for the last few years. I’ve never been very serious with it. Need to put more effort towards it.

Plus it Seems like such an easy way to make teas focused on veg or bloom as well once you have it established

 

[Mikedin]

 

[Mikedin]

Ohhh wife diddnt tell me, new arrivals

 

[Mikedin]

Chop and clean up completed from the kahuna 2 run new pots are all finally in place in all tents, clones are rooting, gotta grab one more thing and I can soil up

Gotta say this upgraded SE3000 killed it! Nice soild colas great size aromas, frost, whole 9 yards and she had power to spare!