My organic Soil Mix for your Judgement (with pic & chart), also made some pots :)

[FullHeads]

Hello growers,
(so after I got 2 males from bag seeds, I decided to stop wasting time and ordered bunch of auto-girls for seedsman. those are GSC, Sour Crack, Expert Gorilla & some classic N.lights)

About soild:

The mix i made you can see in chart picture, also planning to germinate in final pots, so going to small area for seeds with only peat moss for seeds not to get burned. (is that good idea ?)
What do you think about this mix ? Is it too HOT for those autos (as i read autos don't like too rich soil ?

I made my own pots :) well grow bags aren't available in my country..., those I think should be good for breathing (Garden textile sides and just clay pebbles and netting holding those at bottom) picture>

was planing to do 5 gallon pots, ended up somewhere there , some a bit bigger.. should be more then enough, even thinking to seed 2 seeds in 1 , for bigger ones. Is that a bad idea ? Plan is to fit under 600W HID so made 9 pots , witch makes 3x3 pot setup in area of 1.1sqm / 3.6x3.6 feet

I do have additional 250W and 150W setups.. space is not a problem as well, I am going to seed 11 seeds (have another 2 auto seeds), what do you think , should i do more pots and more lights or send few in 2in1 pot setup to pit 9 pots ? Thanks!

So, a side of that, a BIG question is : Should i adjust soil somehow ?? before i reach a point of no return tomorrow, as seeds already floating in those shots :)

Thank you for your experience in advance.
this is a great community!

 

[az2000]

I've never grown with an amended, nutritious soil. I don't know what I'm talking about. But, I thought vermiculite was to keep soil moist, slower drying. That seems like the wrong direction for cannabis (unless you have a problem with the soil drying to quickly. For example, it seems like Pro-Mix BX is used more by HPS growers because the radiant heat of HPS dries Pro-Mix HP too quickly.). Maybe a more living soil benefits from that?

 

[FullHeads]

I've never grown with an amended, nutritious soil. I don't know what I'm talking about. But, I thought vermiculite was to keep soil moist, slower drying. That seems like the wrong direction for cannabis (unless you have a problem with the soil drying to quickly. For example, it seems like Pro-Mix BX is used more by HPS growers because the radiant heat of HPS dries Pro-Mix HP too quickly.). Maybe a more living soil benefits from that?

thanks for your input,
Truth to be told i am new at this even more :)

Well, vermiculite I think wont be a problem as it only 2%, also i found this chart for auto-flowering soil suggestion on RoyalSeeds page:

The Best Soil For Growing Autoflowering Cannabis - RQS Blog

Looking to get the most out of your autoflowering strains? Then you need to learn which kind of soil they thrive in. Find out exactly what you need to know.

www.royalqueenseeds.com

however, i found 10 different auto soil opinions, by some its already too hot, by others it too little of everything... that's confusing.
Since most recepies are for some branded already pre-mixed mixes in US ... well i don't have any of those locally and sending 200kg of soil for few thousand miles would be just stupid :) ... its just a soil after all, also I would love to learn to make my self, as all ingedients are superb quality in my location.

 

[az2000]

@oldskol4evr does a lot of amending. Maybe he can give his thoughts if it's too hot.

You could spread your risk by using your soil for one container. Maybe mix it differently (more peat to dilute it?) in another container. Use some other soil known to work in another container. I.e., you don't have to use one soil in all the containers. You could anticipate some of them living off the soil, while having to feed the others. Get a feel for different things at the same time.

I use 50% peat (which has 35% perlite in it), 25% potting mix (which has 5% perlite in it, and peat too), and 25% perlite. It works well. It dries in 2-3 days. Contains almost no nutrients, which means I have to feed it lightly each watering. If you're nervous about using your soil all at once (in all 6 containers), you could approximate my light soil using what you have (if you still have permite and peat unmixed). Do 35% peat, 20% your mix and 45% perlite. That would be very different than what you're trying to accomplish with a compete soil. But, if you want to reduce your risk of a hot soil, you could do 5 different versions of this. It wouldn't be as easy as treating all the containers the same. But, you'd get a lot of experience with different soil consistencies & nutrient levels. You wouldn't be betting on one unknown.

EDIT: Personally, I think 16% perlite is too low. Pro-Mix HP comes with 35%. I added 25% more when I grew only in it (with hydro nutrients). I pretty much think any bagged soil should have more perlite (typically 50%). But, I've never grown in a complete soil. Maybe it shouldn't dry as fast as I think cannabis likes soil to dry.

 

[FullHeads]

@oldskol4evr does a lot of amending. Maybe he can give his thoughts if it's too hot.

You could spread your risk by using your soil for one container. Maybe mix it differently (more peat to dilute it?) in another container. Use some other soil known to work in another container. I.e., you don't have to use one soil in all the containers. You could anticipate some of them living off the soil, while having to feed the others. Get a feel for different things at the same time.

I use 50% peat (which has 35% perlite in it), 25% potting mix (which has 5% perlite in it, and peat too), and 25% perlite. It works well. It dries in 2-3 days. Contains almost no nutrients, which means I have to feed it lightly each watering. If you're nervous about using your soil all at once (in all 6 containers), you could approximate my light soil using what you have (if you still have permite and peat unmixed). Do 35% peat, 20% your mix and 45% perlite. That would be very different than what you're trying to accomplish with a compete soil. But, if you want to reduce your risk of a hot soil, you could do 5 different versions of this. It wouldn't be as easy as treating all the containers the same. But, you'd get a lot of experience with different soil consistencies & nutrient levels. You wouldn't be betting on one unknown.

EDIT: Personally, I think 16% perlite is too low. Pro-Mix HP comes with 35%. I added 25% more when I grew only in it (with hydro nutrients). I pretty much think any bagged soil should have more perlite (typically 50%). But, I've never grown in a complete soil. Maybe it shouldn't dry as fast as I think cannabis likes soil to dry.

This is a great suggestion! You are right , i need to diverse here, will do different hotness mixes and see what happens. this will be useful!
And yes, i think i ended up with too little perlite, will up that to ~30% .
Thanks man ;)

 

[az2000]

I documented my soil (with photos, if you want to compare consistency) in the attached PDF. Compared to what you're doing, it's probably wrong to call mine "soil." It's basically a "soiled soilless." I grew soilless (Promix HP + 25% more perlite than the 35% it comes with). After some time, i wanted to use soil nutrients (not purely synthetic where it's just me, god and the roots). I mixed the Pro-Mix HP as described in the PDF and it's worked well ever since. I haven't changed it. I dialed in my nutrient strength after feeding too strong and having lockout/buildup.

I'm not trying to pitch that to you as a great soil. It's very different than what you're doing. But, the photos might help you see the consistency if you want to mix one of your containers to be more "soiled soilless" like that.

I like growing that way because I'm more involved in the food it's receiving. I'd be nervous about a rich soil being prepared right (the way you're nervous).

But, aside from that, I think the big thing is that cannabis likes fast wet/dry cycles. Aside from whether the soil has what it needs for food, I'd be nervous if it took a week to dry. With 16% perlite (and some vermiculite), it might be like that. People who grow more organically would have to guide you there. Maybe richer/organic soil shouldn't be too perlite-heavy, and fast drying. I don't know. (My perception of this might come from my soilless days with just god and the roots.).

Anyway, it certainly wouln't hurt to mix one very light and airy like mine, and be prepared to start feeding it every watering after two weeks. You don't need to open a can of worms about what to use. MiracleGro Tomato works through the grow (5/8tsp gal. I'd start 1/4th that after the first week. Work it up to 1/2 strength during that 2nd week, and then full strength the 3rd week). Anything that's balanced, like 10-10-10, or 16-16-16. But, the amounts used would be different.

See Attachment Below:

 

[FullHeads]

I documented my soil (with photos, if you want to compare consistency) in the attached PDF. Compared to what you're doing, it's probably wrong to call mine "soil." It's basically a "soiled soilless." I grew soilless (Promix HP + 25% more perlite than the 35% it comes with). After some time, i wanted to use soil nutrients (not purely synthetic where it's just me, god and the roots). I mixed the Pro-Mix HP as described in the PDF and it's worked well ever since. I haven't changed it. I dialed in my nutrient strength after feeding too strong and having lockout/buildup.

I'm not trying to pitch that to you as a great soil. It's very different than what you're doing. But, the photos might help you see the consistency if you want to mix one of your containers to be more "soiled soilless" like that.

I like growing that way because I'm more involved in the food it's receiving. I'd be nervous about a rich soil being prepared right (the way you're nervous).

But, aside from that, I think the big thing is that cannabis likes fast wet/dry cycles. Aside from whether the soil has what it needs for food, I'd be nervous if it took a week to dry. With 16% perlite (and some vermiculite), it might be like that. People who grow more organically would have to guide you there. Maybe richer/organic soil shouldn't be too perlite-heavy, and fast drying. I don't know. (My perception of this might come from my soilless days with just god and the roots.).

Anyway, it certainly wouln't hurt to mix one very light and airy like mine, and be prepared to start feeding it every watering after two weeks. You don't need to open a can of worms about what to use. MiracleGro Tomato works through the grow (5/8tsp gal. I'd start 1/4th that after the first week. Work it up to 1/2 strength during that 2nd week, and then full strength the 3rd week). Anything that's balanced, like 10-10-10, or 16-16-16. But, the amounts used would be different.

See Attachment Below:

This is what well documented soil mix is! Thanks for sharing ;) I think i will try 3 pots (will be 9 pots in total) of "your way soil" to compare. This is another aproach , more popular thou, most likely not without reason. Need to try, as it might be a f*up with mine :)
And yes, now my soil looks and feels very airy and light , nice to touch , but i know in few weeks after some water passes trough it, it will become heavy and soggy, thats peat problem and this is why i surely need more perlite in it, way more.

this Kellogg Patio Plus has great ingredients, nice product.
Pro-Mix HP - that is mostly peat and its interesting how different in color and texture peat moss is comparing with local peat moss here in Lithuania. As i know most US uses peat from Canada. Canadian breed seems to be lighter color, light brown.. and here, well i' ll make a photo .. maybe its only moisture, but seems different..

thats 100% peat moss, white spots are just a perlite remains that were in that cardbox...

thanks for good info ;)

 

[az2000]

I think i will try 3 pots (will be 9 pots in total) of "your way soil" to compare.

I'm glad I inspired you. I don't think you'll be disappointed. It could be a challenge to keep the different soils straight (treat them differently; feeding some, etc.). You might even feed those 3 pots different strengths. Monitor the runoff ppm and see if you detect salt buildup occurring. You could narrow down the strength quickly that way.

You could learn a lot if you can keep track of it all.

Your soil could be very good. I don't know. I don't want to steer you away from it. I don't think there's anything special about mine. I just think cannabis thrives in fast wet/dry cycles (2-3 days). If you added 30% perlite to 70% of your soil (which already contains 16%), I bet it would dry in 2-3 days like mine (but, be richer). I just don't now if that's how nutrient rich soils are supposed to be used. Maybe it's supposed to go through slower wet/dry cycles.

I think perlite evokes a sense of "oh, that's too much" just because it stands out as not soil (almost a sense of it being "filler," cutting corners, saving money on good, nutritious soil.). But, I think even when it looks like too much, *double* it. Until you get to the point that it's almost a solid layer of perlite laing on the top of the soil after a few waterings, it's not enough. (But, I would go by how frequently I water when a plant is grown into a container. 2-2.5 days.). I'm just saying, it's surprising how much perlite is required to get there. You'll think it doesn't look natural. But, I think plants thrive with that frequency of drench/dry. (I just don't know if that applies to rich soils that are intended to feed the plant, more natural grow.).

 

[oldskol4evr]

Hello growers,
(so after I got 2 males from bag seeds, I decided to stop wasting time and ordered bunch of auto-girls for seedsman. those are GSC, Sour Crack, Expert Gorilla & some classic N.lights)
View attachment 887150
About soild:

The mix i made you can see in chart picture, also planning to germinate in final pots, so going to small area for seeds with only peat moss for seeds not to get burned. (is that good idea ?)
What do you think about this mix ? Is it too HOT for those autos (as i read autos don't like too rich soil ?

View attachment 887157

I made my own pots :) well grow bags aren't available in my country..., those I think should be good for breathing (Garden textile sides and just clay pebbles and netting holding those at bottom) picture>

View attachment 887159

was planing to do 5 gallon pots, ended up somewhere there , some a bit bigger.. should be more then enough, even thinking to seed 2 seeds in 1 , for bigger ones. Is that a bad idea ? Plan is to fit under 600W HID so made 9 pots , witch makes 3x3 pot setup in area of 1.1sqm / 3.6x3.6 feet

I do have additional 250W and 150W setups.. space is not a problem as well, I am going to seed 11 seeds (have another 2 auto seeds), what do you think , should i do more pots and more lights or send few in 2in1 pot setup to pit 9 pots ? Thanks!

So, a side of that, a BIG question is : Should i adjust soil somehow ?? before i reach a point of no return tomorrow, as seeds already floating in those shots :)

View attachment 887175


Thank you for your experience in advance.
this is a great community!

i think you cant go wrong with comitment,you have step in the thresh hold friend,to bad there auto's,i was gonna suggest this,you already dunking seeds so to late for auto's,but if they were reg's i would put them in solo cups,then i would take your mix and plant just a reg bean,as in green bean or field pea,watch plant and its growth ,if it rocks on your gold if you dig what im saying,there is no wrong way when it comes to growing every day is a new adventure,you might have the next best thing and dont know it,getrdone friend talking bout,love them pots too that how i roll i dont spend money on something so simple,ive grown weed in wal mart shopping bags and worked just fine ,until they started putting some kind of coating on them,they dont even break down like clothing should when it has use to it

 

[Beachwalker]

This is what well documented soil mix is! Thanks for sharing ;) I think i will try 3 pots (will be 9 pots in total) of "your way soil" to compare. This is another aproach , more popular thou, most likely not without reason. Need to try, as it might be a f*up with mine :)
And yes, now my soil looks and feels very airy and light , nice to touch , but i know in few weeks after some water passes trough it, it will become heavy and soggy, thats peat problem and this is why i surely need more perlite in it, way more.

this Kellogg Patio Plus has great ingredients, nice product.
Pro-Mix HP - that is mostly peat and its interesting how different in color and texture peat moss is comparing with local peat moss here in Lithuania. As i know most US uses peat from Canada. Canadian breed seems to be lighter color, light brown.. and here, well i' ll make a photo .. maybe its only moisture, but seems different..

thats 100% peat moss, white spots are just a perlite remains that were in that cardbox...

View attachment 887196

thanks for good info ;)

Cut with 20% perlite. I don't see a buffer for pH, can you get dolomite where you are? If not what kind of liming material is available to you

 

[oldskol4evr]

Hello growers,
(so after I got 2 males from bag seeds, I decided to stop wasting time and ordered bunch of auto-girls for seedsman. those are GSC, Sour Crack, Expert Gorilla & some classic N.lights)
View attachment 887150
About soild:

The mix i made you can see in chart picture, also planning to germinate in final pots, so going to small area for seeds with only peat moss for seeds not to get burned. (is that good idea ?)
What do you think about this mix ? Is it too HOT for those autos (as i read autos don't like too rich soil ?

View attachment 887157

I made my own pots :) well grow bags aren't available in my country..., those I think should be good for breathing (Garden textile sides and just clay pebbles and netting holding those at bottom) picture>

View attachment 887159

was planing to do 5 gallon pots, ended up somewhere there , some a bit bigger.. should be more then enough, even thinking to seed 2 seeds in 1 , for bigger ones. Is that a bad idea ? Plan is to fit under 600W HID so made 9 pots , witch makes 3x3 pot setup in area of 1.1sqm / 3.6x3.6 feet

I do have additional 250W and 150W setups.. space is not a problem as well, I am going to seed 11 seeds (have another 2 auto seeds), what do you think , should i do more pots and more lights or send few in 2in1 pot setup to pit 9 pots ? Thanks!

So, a side of that, a BIG question is : Should i adjust soil somehow ?? before i reach a point of no return tomorrow, as seeds already floating in those shots :)

View attachment 887175


Thank you for your experience in advance.
this is a great community!

vermiculite does have some minerals in it ,what you think about dropping a third of the perlite in exchange for bio char?you havent mentioned what you plan for feed is,the compost will feed for a while,the ewc is nitrogen,peat has nothing,so what im getting at is this will work well for vegging plants,you got to get some P and K values in there too for flower unless your gonna feed plants,i make my mixs were there is just watering and every couple weeks i throw some fermented plants at them with a little EM1,i grow in pretty much desert conditions i cant have airy soil,mine has to hold on to it,my base is peat cause that all i have ,i live on a rock all soil is made,so i go with a 1:1:1 base to start with,compost,peat moss,wood chips playground style,biggest piece is about 1/4 inch,that my base,i do each mix with a 5 gallon bucket,if i cant score free chips ,i do half perlite half vermiculite,dump in wheel barrow mix,then when im broke i add cup blood meal,cup bone meal cup azomite,that is my base mix ,gets me started,once i get it all down to the boxes,i put several trenchs in and about 8 in deep,0-46-0 triple phospate,langbeinite 0-0-22,potash,gypsum,azomite covers macro minerals,gypsum p and most for compaction,potash iron ,sulfur,all for the k value,triple phosphate straight phosphurus,langbeinite minerals,as you see nothing for nitrogen,i top dress it in when needed,my rows are 12 ft long,so i go 2tbsp of triple,3 tbsp of langbeinite,2 tbsp of potash, 2 tbsp gypsum,2 tbsp azomite,mix it in a cup and sprinkle in each row,cover it up,deep minerals for plants like corn to get some roots on i mean,no lodging at all when the rain and wind gets it,same for the raised beds,only difrence in bed is they are 3x12 ft,i make 2 trenchs one for each side of box,,anyway you have to dial in for your envorment,mine is triple digit weather for 6 months hahahah,this works best for me ,but the main thing that makes it all come together is soil texture test,i like to run right at line of sandy loam and loam,so my clay is 1/3 rd the value were sand and silt are even,i only amend every couple years,im completly rebuilding my 50x50 garden right now,10 yrds of soil i made today,im freaking tired and rambling now,your were you dont have excess to all the tricks and gimmicks we have here,i elect not to fall for there shit and make my own,stuff dont work i cant bitch if you dig hahaahbelieve me i have cussed my ass out several times ,neighbor tells me all the time ,im talking to myself,i say ya im to damn old to get my leg up to kick my ass ,hahahah,but ya id give your a try,but if you dont plan to have a nute source for feeding,you gonna have to gets some P and K in there,like i said blood ,bone,crushed oyster shell flower is great for k,any kind of gauno's for p

 

[FullHeads]

another question i cant find answer is:
Should i pre-wet all my medium in 5 gallon pot before putting seed in or just wet locally , area it needs , more and more while it grows...

I'm glad I inspired you. I don't think you'll be disappointed. It could be a challenge to keep the different soils straight (treat them differently; feeding some, etc.). You might even feed those 3 pots different strengths. Monitor the runoff ppm and see if you detect salt buildup occurring. You could narrow down the strength quickly that way.

You could learn a lot if you can keep track of it all.

Your soil could be very good. I don't know. I don't want to steer you away from it. I don't think there's anything special about mine. I just think cannabis thrives in fast wet/dry cycles (2-3 days). If you added 30% perlite to 70% of your soil (which already contains 16%), I bet it would dry in 2-3 days like mine (but, be richer). I just don't now if that's how nutrient rich soils are supposed to be used. Maybe it's supposed to go through slower wet/dry cycles.

I think perlite evokes a sense of "oh, that's too much" just because it stands out as not soil (almost a sense of it being "filler," cutting corners, saving money on good, nutritious soil.). But, I think even when it looks like too much, *double* it. Until you get to the point that it's almost a solid layer of perlite laing on the top of the soil after a few waterings, it's not enough. (But, I would go by how frequently I water when a plant is grown into a container. 2-2.5 days.). I'm just saying, it's surprising how much perlite is required to get there. You'll think it doesn't look natural. But, I think plants thrive with that frequency of drench/dry. (I just don't know if that applies to rich soils that are intended to feed the plant, more natural grow.).

Cut with 20% perlite. I don't see a buffer for pH, can you get dolomite where you are? If not what kind of liming material is available to you

yes i got dolomite today , thanks man ;)

 

[az2000]

Should i pre-wet all my medium in 5 gallon pot before putting seed in or just wet locally , area it needs , more and more while it grows...

The largest I've done is 3gal. I pre-wet the entire thing. If I didn't, I'd worry about the roots growing into dry areas. (Roots can travel surprisingly far, fast.). If I didn't pre-wet everything, I'd have to wet that area while the plant is still a seedling. It seems better to pre-load it with water. I live in a dry climate. I cover much of the container with clear plastic wrap. If I didn't, it would dry unevenly from the top; I'd have to spray the top to keep it wet. Then I would worry about keeping it too wet (applying water too often).

That's a stressful time when you start in a large container. It's hard to balance letting it dry (not keeping it too wet too often). But, also keeping it uniform. When I get past the first week, I drench and start the wet/dry cycles (even if the soil seems still wet. By that time, I'm unclear how uniform that is. By that time the plant can handle a full watering. Not a delicate seedling anymore (that needs the top of the soil sprayed.). At that point it gets easier. The roots can spread and fill he container while the above-ground seems small, not doing much. You just wait for the soil to dry. You still have to balance it. But, you can err more on the side of being dry. The roots will grow into it untapped wet areas before having a problem. It will be able to handle the next full watering better.

yes i got dolomite today , thanks man ;)

You're sure it's dolomite? Sometimes that's hard to find. You said you're peat is a different standard. You're sure about the dolomite? It should have *carbonates* of calcium and magnesium. (Not oxides.). It should be 54% calcium carbonate, 45% magnesium carbonate. (Or, something like that). It might refer to elemental calcium and magnesium as 21 & 13%, respectively.

 

[FullHeads]

The largest I've done is 3gal. I pre-wet the entire thing. If I didn't, I'd worry about the roots growing into dry areas. (Roots can travel surprisingly far, fast.). If I didn't pre-wet everything, I'd have to wet that area while the plant is still a seedling. It seems better to pre-load it with water. I live in a dry climate. I cover much of the container with clear plastic wrap. If I didn't, it would dry unevenly from the top; I'd have to spray the top to keep it wet. Then I would worry about keeping it too wet (applying water too often).

That's a stressful time when you start in a large container. It's hard to balance letting it dry (not keeping it too wet too often). But, also keeping it uniform. When I get past the first week, I drench and start the wet/dry cycles (even if the soil seems still wet. By that time, I'm unclear how uniform that is. By that time the plant can handle a full watering. Not a delicate seedling anymore (that needs the top of the soil sprayed.). At that point it gets easier. The roots can spread and fill he container while the above-ground seems small, not doing much. You just wait for the soil to dry. You still have to balance it. But, you can err more on the side of being dry. The roots will grow into it untapped wet areas before having a problem. It will be able to handle the next full watering better.



You're sure it's dolomite? Sometimes that's hard to find. You said you're peat is a different standard. You're sure about the dolomite? It should have *carbonates* of calcium and magnesium. (Not oxides.). It should be 54% calcium carbonate, 45% magnesium carbonate. (Or, something like that). It might refer to elemental calcium and magnesium as 21 & 13%, respectively.

it has Ca and Mg , but i put very little, maybe 4-5cups for all 8 7-gallon pots. Can I/should I apply more during growth ? thanks
this stuff is very easy to get here, its abundant in many garden stores, cheep also, like 3 bucks a 30kg/ 66lbs. Its from Belarus :)

Girls are showing off already, its 40h and 4 of them already above soil :) waiting for others , hope its normal to grow that pace after paper towel germ?

 

[az2000]

it has Ca and Mg , but i put very little, maybe 4-5cups for all 8 7-gallon pots. Can I/should I apply more during growth ?

You did 1.3 Tablespoons per gal (if those are really 7-gal pot. Often, the term "gal" is just a "trade name" for the containers. They actually have a volume about 2/3 of the trade name. That would put you close to 1.7 Tablespoons.).

It depends on how much your peat needs. The peat I use is already neutralized. I add 1-1.5Tbsp/gal to ensure it has enough for the entire grow. If your peat isn't neutralized, you might need twice as much. I don't know. I've never done it.

Yes, 40 hours to break ground (after soaking the seed in water, or the paper towel) sounds good. I just planted two seeds directly in soil. They sprouted in 72-84 hours.

Now you just have to wait and see how the plants grow in the various mixes of soil your trying. You might have to feed a small amount to any of the soils that are light (in two weeks).

The soil I just planted in is made for cactus. The bag doesn't show any nutrients. I'm thinking I'll feed 1/8th strength today. The soil's drying enough today, I think. I normally wouln't feed 2-3 days after the broke ground. Maybe I'll do 1/16th strength. In my light soil, I would wait until 7-8 days, then do 1/8th strength.