My Plan For A Cree Cxb3590 Light Bar

[seaslug]

[Disclaimer: I am not an electrician nor an engineer and this is my first LED fixture design.]

Parts List:
OA938AP-11-3TB
Orion Fans
AC Fans Fan AC 92x38mm 115V Ball Terminals [26 CFM]

F-7800-A
Bud Industries
Racks & Rack Cabinet Accessories .87" Plastic Foot

CXB3590-0000-000R0HCB30G
Cree, Inc.
High Power LEDs - White, 3000 K

HLG-185H-C1050A
Mean Well
LED Power Supplies 199.5W 1050mA95-190V CC IP65 int. pot

08174
Qualtek
Fan Accessories WIRE GUARD 92MM

4733
Schurter
AC Power Entry Modules APPLIANCE INLET FOR CABLE 10A

C45-12
Orion Fans
Fan Accessories Fan Cord 45 Degree 12" Blunt Cut

Tripp Lite Model P006-006-2 6 ft. AC Power Splitter Cable NEMA 5-15P 2x IEC-320-C13

8329TCS-6ML
MG Chemicals
Thermal Interface Products THERM CONDV EPOXY SC 6ml(.20oz) SYRINGES

Heatsinkusa.com
3.945" Wide Extruded Aluminum Heatsink
(Choose Length (Inches): 16")
SKU L016

1 Mil Kapton Tape (Polyimide), 3/4" x 36 yds

SUPPLIES I Bought:
3055 SL005
Alpha Wire
Hook-up Wire 18AWG 16/30 PVC 100ft SPOOL SLATE

Weller WESD51 Digital Soldering Station

ETB Weller Scrwdrvr Tip .093"x.020"x.625" (good choice?)

MG Chemicals 8341 No Clean Flux Paste, 10 ml Syringe

(I already have solder.)

 

[alaskind]

Right on. I looked at apache lights, and some other high end LEDs, waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay to expensive 4 me. Id be curious what kind of an area this will cover and the cost would be cool unless U havent already figured it.. ;)

 

[seaslug]

I bought enough to make two bars. Mouser.com came to about $590 including the $15 shipping. A pair of heatsinks delivered to Seattle was $135. Kapton tape was $13 from amazon. The power cords were about $12 each. So this will cost me $380 per bar not including the $41 cost of getting a supply of 300V rated 18ga hookup wire (300V because I wanted to have it on hand).

Each bar will be installed in a 2x3ft alcove and driven at 1050mA for about 150W per bar. The internal pot can reduce the current by half and Supra recommends running things mellow so we'll see.

Copied from RUI, I think:
"Same recommendations as far as drive currents

CXA3070 3K AB at 1.4A (52W) 43.3% $1.77/PAR W (aliex)
CXB3070 3K AB at 1.4A (50W) 45.4% $2.03/PAR W (digikey)
CXB3590 3K CB at 0.7A (49W) 51.7% $2.38/PAR W (digikey) (dang! :joint:)

You could run 4 CXB3070s at 1.4A on the HLG-185H-C1400 or
you could run 4 CXB3590s at 0.7A on the HLG-185H-C700

perfect match for our favorite drivers :leaf: makes you wonder if Cree is watching
Last edited: Feb 21, 2015
SupraSPL, Feb 21, 2015

 

[Toaster79]

Wasn't aware CXB was already on the market. You should be hitting about 150lm/w with this setup. I've been looking at CXA1816 wired 2S2P with 3000K and 5000K CCT each driven by its own driver. Altogether 8 COBs. 5000K for veg then on flip add 3000K. But obviously I'll have to rething again.

WESD51 - you're gonna love it for sure. I been meaning to buy Ersa iCon Nano for a while now. 80W, 350*C in 9sec, max. temp. 450*C

Good luck with your build! Can't wait to see it runing.

 

[seaslug]

Ideal makes the only holder for the CXB3590 but they are not currently available (Newark).
The slow cure epoxy looks promising. The Kapton tape will only be used to secure wire, not the COB.

 

[Toaster79]

Why glueing instead of using screws? You would have way better thermal managment using thermal compound and screws. If youre crazy enough (like me sometimes) you could get copper sinks and reflow the COBs. It doesn't get any better from here. This way you can overdrive your emitters and still keeping them cool enought to keep their life span reasonable. Also cuts the costs since you can use less emitters :D

 

[seaslug]

Well, the Cree design manual specifically discourages screws, even with plastic washers. I was thinking of some way to have spring tension like a CPU heatsink hold down (with much less pressure). Worst case, there is room on the bar for replacement COB.

 

[Toaster79]

A self tapping screw in the middle should do the trick :D

Jokes aside. That reflow idea is totaly feasible though.

Will have to get my ass off the phone and to the computer to draw some mounting ideas :)

If I'm glueing my LEDs to heatsinks then I'm using Arctic Silver epoxy. In case one of them dies it's still pretty easily removable. Just need to pry it a bit with a thin flat screwdriver and sand the epoxy away to mount new one. Always chamfer MCPCB a little so there's a tiny gap on the edge ;)

 

[seaslug]

Arctic Silver epoxy was what I first thought of. MG claims 1.44 W/(m·K) thermal conductivity, I don't know how that compares.

 

[seaslug]

Wired:

 

[seaslug]

Mean Well Data:

 

[tags420]

Cool bar. Should be around 45% efficient at full power for you. That is a great sink profile to work with.

The holders are available now at newark if you wanted them. They came in early. Or you could always just kapton tape and paste them down. It works just fine. Paste over epoxy is highly recommended no matter what. Epoxy is basically going to break the cob if you need to remove it later. And paste has at least 2X the conductivity, usually more.

 

[seaslug]

Cool bar. Should be around 45% efficient at full power for you. That is a great sink profile to work with.

The holders are available now at newark if you wanted them. They came in early. Or you could always just kapton tape and paste them down. It works just fine. Paste over epoxy is highly recommended no matter what. Epoxy is basically going to break the cob if you need to remove it later. And paste has at least 2X the conductivity, usually more.

Excellent news, I just bought a dozen holders from newark.com:

IDEAL 50-2303CR LED HOLDER, CREE CXA35 COB ARRAY

But I'm still going to keep my new solder station. ;)

Estimated weight of the luminaire is 9.5 pounds.

 

[seaslug]

I haven't unpacked my stuff yet and I need to repair the lighting in my work area but I'm already planning for more DIY.
heatsinkusa.com 10% off through the end of May for orders of $100.00 or more.
Use coupon code GIVEME10

I think I'll start by building the design above only with 12 inch centers and maybe a slightly slower, 25mm thick fan @ 240VAC.

 

[seaslug]

Still need to repair my household lights :rolleyes: but here is what I've decided to build; 30W of deep red with 150W of 3000K for a total 180W from the PSU.

 

[Toaster79]

What are you using for deep red?

So it's gonna be strictly flowering unit :)

 

[seaslug]

Yeah, for veg I have a set of four old Procyon 100 (125W) that have never been used. I've been happy vegging under high bay racks of T8 6500K lamps, except for the heat during summer (but needed during the winter).

I drew up some test rigs using HLG-80H-C700A (for independent 660nm control) but the design above makes good sense for my flower room (I hope :)).

Four red LED Engin diodes per dome:

 

[Toaster79]

Cool :)

But I'm curios what deep red LEDs are you planning to use. You're running them at 525mA so the voltage drop needs to be around 10V to get 5W out each one since you plan to wire them 3S2P in addition to 2S COB. So all together you're runnig your driver at [email protected]

 

[seaslug]

Sketch of independent deep red circuit:
(Oh, imagine the red stars in series on the 700mA PSU.)

 

[seaslug]

Right, each star drops about 10V @ 500mA. (The four internal diodes are connected in series.)

I was thinking about asking on the forums if the LED Engin stars were any good but these are new and improved so I'm in. ;)