My Tamasium Clone.

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Walter White

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I ended up with a pile of flowers that, although the "strength" is fairly good, the presentation sucks. I figured make concentrate from them and I've been contemplating butane extraction. The Tamisium has always caught my eye, except for the price tag. Then a friend gave me another couple of pounds that would be suitable for butane extraction. More thoughts about butane. Then my brother-in-law just is pulling in a huge outdoor harvest and just gave me about 25 pounds of trim.

O.K... it's time to put something together but there is no way I'm going to drop the funds for a Tamisium when I own a machine shop. So... I started studying, calculating, purchasing and TIG welding. I'm pretty much duplicating the Tamisium with three major changes. First my collection chamber will be separate from the extraction column. It will be coupled to the extraction chamber with hydraulic disconnects. Second both ends of the extraction column and collection chamber will be open and use sanitary "tri-clamp" fittings. This will allow easy access for cleaning. Finally I'm using off the shelf containers for handling the butane. This will consist of a "Y" valved refrigerant recovery tank (designed for handling things like liquid butane) and propane cylinders fitted with the Mr/ Heater adapters, ball valves and hydraulic disconnects. I've also sourced out the high pressure armored hoses and the same hydraulic connectors that Tamisium marks up 10x. Sorry.. I've been working in big industry too long.

All I am waiting for is the arrival of the clamps and the end caps. Once they show up all I need to do is drill and tap some 1/4" pipe thread holes in two of the blanks and install the connectors. Hopefully I will have a functioning captive extractor in another week or so.
My tamasium clone
 
socalpunx

socalpunx

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I have used the Tamisium before and its a waste of time.takes longer and harder to control quality I would just stick with the old-school way
 
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Walter White

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Got the 6" clamps in today and the end blanks come in tomorrow. All that's left is to drill and taps some holes, a little bit of assembly and a leak test.
 
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Walter White

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IMG 20131003 140911 099
IMG 20131003 151012 395
More progress. It turns out that it looks like I unknowingly almost duplicated Graywolf's devices. I even got my parts from Glacier tanks except I do my own welding.
IMG 20131003 140911 099
IMG 20131003 151012 395
 
Graywolf

Graywolf

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Hee, hee, hee, purdy!

Look forward to hearing your experiences with it!
 
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Walter White

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Well..... my welds on this one are a little ugly cause I've been out of practice for about a year. I was thinking I might offer these for sale but I better make a few more so I can have sexy looking welds!
 
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Walter White

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Actually if you notice the lid has two fittings on it. The column detaches via the hydraulic fitting then the vacuum pump connects on the other fitting for purging.

I also evacuate the chamber and column before injecting the butane. I close off the ball valve at the chamber and connect the butane at the cylinder top. The vacuum in the column sucks in the liquid butane. After a soak then I open the valve to the evacuated chamber and it continues to pull the butane through the system. Whole thing worked like a champ even on the first test run.

I've got a temp controlled hot plate that I place the chamber without the column on and connect the vac pump to. It's collection and purging all in one tank and if you work by numbers, no need to even open the lid.
 
Graywolf

Graywolf

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squiggly said:
Any way to quickly and reversibly convert this collection portion into a purging chamber to reduce loss from transfer? You could even turn the thing into a massive scale rotary evap and do it that way if you got creative.
Click to expand...

We pop a 1/2" thick Polycarbonate lid on the lower tank, and pull a vacuum on it to purge insitu. You can control the temperature by setting the pot in hot water and the vacuum is all that is needed to hold the lid in place.

On a second note, I have a 10" X 12" Sanitary spool on order for a rotary evaporator and already have the rotary vacuum union. Coming soon!
 
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Walter White

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Graywolf said:
We pop a 1/2" thick Polycarbonate lid on the lower tank, and pull a vacuum on it to purge insitu. You can control the temperature by setting the pot in hot water and the vacuum is all that is needed to hold the lid in place.

On a second note, I have a 10" X 12" Sanitary spool on order for a rotary evaporator and already have the rotary vacuum union. Coming soon!
Click to expand...



O.K... let's see the plans and concept behind the rotary evap! I have A LOT of product to process this season.
 
squiggly

squiggly

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Graywolf said:
We pop a 1/2" thick Polycarbonate lid on the lower tank, and pull a vacuum on it to purge insitu. You can control the temperature by setting the pot in hot water and the vacuum is all that is needed to hold the lid in place.

On a second note, I have a 10" X 12" Sanitary spool on order for a rotary evaporator and already have the rotary vacuum union. Coming soon!
Click to expand...


This is exactly what I was talking about. It helps to purge several times even though equilibrium isn't a huge factor under vacuum. I agree that hot water is the way to go here. Even with the relatively high thermal conductivity of metal you still get hot spots if you use direct heat. Best to do the water method (indeed that's how most rotavaps are designed).

Walter White said:
O.K... let's see the plans and concept behind the rotary evap! I have A LOT of product to process this season.
Click to expand...

I have chicken scratch hand writing so I'll translate.

You take the vessel and drop it into a water bath that you can control the temperature of. The more curved you can get the corner of the collection vessel where the product will collect the thinner your film will be and the better your solvent removal.

You need to rotate the vessel (preferably you will have fine control over the rotation speed), but keep pulling a vacuum on it. So you need some type of fitting that can rotate freely and hold a vacuum. I know shit about engineering so I can't get you started there. This is essentially all that you need.

If you're expecting to be removing large amounts of solvent then you will need a high capacity condenser or a large capacity trap (condenser is better and much much safer) that you will pull a vac through. For small amounts a trap will help to keep from fucking over your vacuum pump--but they must be treated with respect. You cant open valves really quickly if you're going through a trap. Supercooled oxygen can get into the trap with butane or what-other-accelerant-have-you and create a serious explosion hazard. Big boom.

It's really a simple device, all told. It's in the fine tuning and engineering that the benefits of one design over another can start to play out. For extraction purposes on the preparative level something crude will more than do the trick.

Image
 
Graywolf

Graywolf

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The Evapanator Rotary Evaporator 1 1

Here is a picture of a double drum version, that I designed before I was able to get 10" spools.
 
Graywolf

Graywolf

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Not sure where that number came from. I plan to use a angle head variable speed sparkless induction motor, so 2 RPM at the output shaft, may have been the minimum RPM where it's torque crapped out with its present gearing.

I may have also just misspelled a number, as I designed that conceptual almost a year ago and don't really remember.

Good point on bumping. The one I'm actually building, is a single 10" X 12" sanitary spool, which will give me more clearance for bumping than the 6" spools.

I'll shielded the vacuum inlet against direct splatters, so splatters inside the drum are ostensibly of minimal concern, because much if it gets washed by the rotation, but vee shall see...........
 
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