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need help bad

Hi i have a grow room thats kicking my ace. grow room setup, 6 dwc recirc system 4" airstones, was using tap water, and now distilled water. ph is at 6.0, ppm is 1256. everyother day i'm adjusting ph. there are under 2 1000w hps, temp is 68 degrees, water temp 50-55degrees. using technaflora nutes. right now i switched them to 12,12 starting to look alot better then when i had them at 18,6. not sure what is going on.
someone please enlighten me.
 
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You have a couple issues. Temp. is to cold. 75-80f air temp and 65f in the res. Ppms to high drop down to around 600-800.ph at 5.5 -5.8 What nutes u using?
 
thanks for the reply i have my ph at 5.5 water temp at 60-65 deg, room temp at 80, air temp at 76-78. my ppm hover around at 1000 ppm. I'm using bc grow, bc boost, magical, thrive alive b-1 red, and sugar daddy.
I have another room where each bucket is stand alone, used distill water the whole time no problems, temp in the other room is 78 all the time.
 
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agreed, nutrient load is too high for those size plants, and your rex water is way too cold. i run 68-69 ºF
 
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You have a couple issues. Temp. is to cold. 75-80f air temp and 65f in the res. Ppms to high drop down to around 600-800.ph at 5.5 -5.8 What nutes u using?
I agree with mitt and mace that your rez temps are too cold, you want them to be 65+...but you also might be having some Zinc issues. Not common but you can see them in veg and it could be locked out due to your pH. Try bringing it down to 5.5 and see if there is an improvement if raising the water temp doesn't help. I noticed that it seemed to start with the new growth and zinc def's will do that bro.
 

Seamaiden

Living dead girl
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It's *really* hard to see what's going on in those photos, but what I can make out I see lower leaves that are going necrotic from the tip back, and that equals a phosphorous problem to me.

I can't answer anything else because I don't grow that style, but it does appear to me that you've changed up what you've posted on certain parameters. First you said your water temps were 50-55F, then you said they're warmer. You also initially posted that your ppm's (you don't say what conversion factor you're using) are 1256 w/pH @ 6.0, and then later on you changed those numbers.

There could be a magnesium uptake issue happening, but it's too difficult for me to make out in the photos to say for certain.
 
I have flushed them out before no results the same,( left thein distilled water for a week), i added jacks 20-20-20 at 1/4 dose, got better, (very little). i thought it could of been my hose3/4 or 1/2, thought it was toxic (bought from sunlight supply). yesterday added a water heater. check ph 5.8, ppm 1255. ph dropped a little ppm is pretty stable. the only difference in my two systems is the res is in one room where the plants are healty and the res in the problem room, is outside of the room.

At first I though is was ph lockout, so i flushed it and let it sit for 4 days, no improvement. Then i thought it was postassium prob, added nute 4 days later same. Next i was like ok its a magnesium problem waited 3 days nothing.

Funny thing i told my brother that i think its a water temp problem, he said the colder the water the more oxygen it hold just as long it doesn't get below 50 deg.

I will let the system sit until tomorrow, and see what happens. I will update when i see a difference.
 
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Your problem seems obvious then. One room cold no grow. Other room warm plants grow. 50 is way to cold. I keep 65 in my res and my rootzone stays around 68.
 
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I ranbuckets like that with no recirculation. My roots got so big I couldn't take net pot out of bucket. It was a guessing game at that point as to the ppm and ph. Turned out one of them looked just like yours and I couldn't figure it out.

I fed plain water for a few days, no luck. It finally died (was 4 feet tall) after trying everything I knew.

Once I investigated and teste water, it was 3800 ppm! The water inthebottom of the bucket just gets stronger and stronger. Even though I fed just plain water for a week it was still that toxic with ppm.

My conclusion was that the only way to go with these buckets is to have them recirculate to a res so that ppm and ph are always able to be monitored and adjusted. Believe it or not the other 2 plants I had in that same system yielded well, 6 zips on 1 and 8 on another. Got lucky.

Your plants are absolutley overfed. I would drop ppm to 400 (just some cal/mag and very light nutes) or so till they recover from the trauma they have endured. They look like mine did right before it died.
 
I would say ur water temps too cold 68 degrees F it good ph is good mine is around 5.5-6.0 ur ppms im going to say r to high. my ppms are between 800-1000
950 being the best so u could be over feeding them or water temps are to cold
 
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I'm still thinking you have a zinc issue with it being locked out..if you want to try that solution you need to get your pH below 5.5...here's an excerpt from a forum I use a lot to learn and help myself out:

"Zinc deficiencies on some plants will have the Spotting and bleached spots (chlorosis) between the veins first appears on the older leaves first, and then goes on to the immature leaves. It will then start to slowly affect tips of growing points of the plants. When the zinc deficiency happens so suddenly, the spotting can appear to be the same symptoms to that of an iron and manganese, without the seeing the little leaf symptom.
Zinc is not mobile in plants so the symptoms will occur mainly in the newer growths. Having a plant that is deficiency in Zinc can cause small crops, short shoots and have a cluster of small distorted leaves near the tips. Between the veins (Interveinal) yellowing is often combined with overall paleness. Pale or grayish, yellowing between the veins; rosetted weak is the signs of a Zinc deficiency.
With a low level of zinc in your plants, your yields will be dramatically reduced.
Interveinal chlorosis is present in the small, narrow distorted leaves at the ends of really shortened shoots and the shortening between internodes. Leaf margins are often distorted or wrinkled. These nutrients will get locked out due to high pH: Zinc, Iron, and Manganese. These deficiencies will often occur together. Parts affected by a zinc deficiency are young leaves and petioles."


I doubt you are deficient in the zinc but I bet it's locked out by your pH and/or h2o temp.
 
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Funny thing i told my brother that i think its a water temp problem, he said the colder the water the more oxygen it hold just as long it doesn't get below 50 deg.
Your brother was right about the dissolved oxygen content being higher in colder water, however, that's not why we are telling you that your cold rez temps might be contributing to your problem...the cold temps will make it more difficult for the salts in your nutes to mix with your rez water and you might be suffocating your plants of the minerals they need to live. Get an aquarium heater or something in there bro, get that pH down a little more.
 
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Your problem seems obvious then. One room cold no grow. Other room warm plants grow. 50 is way to cold. I keep 65 in my res and my rootzone stays around 68.
^^^^^^^^
You asked all of us for advice...the only change between your two grows is the temp difference. Your plants don't have access to all the shit you keep dumping into them because of the colder water, get a heater in there or try experimenting with adding more than what you do in your warmer water...your choice.
 

Seamaiden

Living dead girl
23,629
638
Funny thing i told my brother that i think its a water temp problem, he said the colder the water the more oxygen it hold just as long it doesn't get below 50 deg.
He's right, but water will continue to hold more O2 even if the water is below 50F. The problem with that is that in order for certain chemical and physical reactions to occur in this set-up, the temps really need to be closer to ideal soil temps (about 65F).

By the way, if your reservoir is flat-bottomed, I personally prefer waterbed heating pads over aquarium heaters for most efficient and best heating of large volumes of water. I'm frankly not sure why more aquarists don't go this route.
 
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By the way, if your reservoir is flat-bottomed, I personally prefer waterbed heating pads over aquarium heaters for most efficient and best heating of large volumes of water. I'm frankly not sure why more aquarists don't go this route.
Good call Seamaiden, how easy are those to find these days though...I don't think I've even seen a waterbed in about 10 years here?!?!
 
Hi Seamaiden, that what i have used under my tank with a aqua/fish tank heater. The girls look better a little greener. water temp yesterday was 64deg,(i have it set at 70deg) i will be flushing the water today and adding about 1/4 recom dose of nutes and maybe a little extra of magical. Lazarus, i think it is a zinc diffency. but i'm not sure, or don't want to chance it. I will upload new photos tomorow. and hopefully by monday everything is good.
 

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