Need help identifying this deficiency on my plant

  • Thread starter Dc5brian
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Captspaulding

Captspaulding

What’s the matter? Don’t like clowns? 🤡
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Is demascus earth better than spraying?
Well, DE can be used as a pre treatment to keep a soil loving critter from breaching the gate.
Really just depends on what you’re dealing with and what you know that you’re gonna deal with in your growing season. so Captain Jack’s is basically you know the judge jury and executioner of any little motherfucker that wants to mess with your Baller ass grass you know?
 
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Dc5brian

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Well, DE can be used as a pre treatment to keep a soil loving critter from breaching the gate.
Really just depends on what you’re dealing with and what you know that you’re gonna deal with in your growing season. so Captain Jack’s is basically you know the judge jury and executioner of any little motherfucker that wants to mess with your Baller ass grass you know?
Oh okay i see nice im going to have to try it for next grow season in soil with captain jacks 👍🏽
 
Putthataway

Putthataway

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I do bro with a k24 swap tuned on e85 😊 cant drive it right now because i got state reff. Cali sucks for that
I have a few honduhs. Welcome to the party here. Captain is drag racer too. Not a Honda but you’re in good hands with him and your plant.
 
Kashego

Kashego

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Could be water deficiency due to temperature drop (canna is pretty sensitive to temperature 75-85f) or air deficiency to the roots if the soil is packed too tightly. Ph might also be a little low and do you use any supplements like compost (for beneficial bacteria) or cal-mag?
 
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Dc5brian

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I have a few honduhs. Welcome to the party here. Captain is drag racer too. Not a Honda but you’re in good hands with him and your plant.
Nice bro are you in Cali as well? and no way thats badass! The best two combos cars and weed 😂 I appreciate it 👍🏽
 
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Dc5brian

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Could be water deficiency due to temperature drop (canna is pretty sensitive to temperature 75-85f) or air deficiency to the roots if the soil is packed too tightly. Ph might also be a little low and do you use any supplements like compost (for beneficial bacteria) or cal-mag?
i let the coco dry a little bit not too much so that the roots can get some air flow and ph i usually around 5.7-6.0 and haven’t used cal mag for the past couple waterings i will use it on the next watering though. As for beneficial bacteria i have been using microbial mass pro it says to add every two weeks and I haven’t added some recently i will for the next watering as well
 
mancorn

mancorn

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At 38 days in, it’s common to start seeing some nutrient deficiencies, especially with autoflowers as they move quickly through their growth stages. Based on your description, it’s possible that the issue could be phosphorus-related, but here are a few signs and other nutrient deficiencies to consider:

  1. Phosphorus Deficiency: Look for dark, purplish or reddish patches on the leaves, particularly lower down on the plant. The edges of leaves may look burned or browned. Phosphorus deficiencies can cause slower growth and weaker stems.
  2. Nitrogen Deficiency: If the leaves are yellowing from the bottom up, it could be a nitrogen deficiency. Autoflowers often use a lot of nitrogen in the vegetative stage, so yellowing can mean it’s time for a nitrogen boost.
  3. Potassium Deficiency: If you’re noticing brown or burnt-looking tips and edges on the leaves, it could be potassium. Leaves might also look dry or brittle.
  4. Calcium Deficiency: Calcium issues often look like brown spots or holes appearing on leaves, and newer growth may look distorted.
What to Do:If you’re already using a balanced nutrient blend, try slightly increasing the phosphorus, especially if you’re in a bloom stage. Make sure your pH is in the correct range (around 6.0–7.0 in soil) because nutrient lockout can happen if pH is too far off, even if nutrients are present.
Why are you posting AI generated responses to question?
 
Kashego

Kashego

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i let the coco dry a little bit not too much so that the roots can get some air flow and ph i usually around 5.7-6.0 and haven’t used cal mag for the past couple waterings i will use it on the next watering though. As for beneficial bacteria i have been using microbial mass pro it says to add every two weeks and I haven’t added some recently i will for the next watering as well
After looking around I noticed that there was a wide variety of preference for pH; personally I try for around 6.5-6.8. As for beneficial bacteria an easy soil amendum is finding a fruit tree with dropped fruit, when the ground is wet you'll likely find a bunch of worms along with beneficial microbes, I usually take a few scoops and add it to the pot.
 
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Dc5brian

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Whats up guys sorry to bring this post back but here is a little update on this plant that i wanted to show lol
IMG 1941
 
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