Need Some Advice On Solving My Potassium Deficiencyaroun

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SmithsJunk

SmithsJunk

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I've done well with my outdoor grows (as a lot of you have seen) so I'm trying my hand at some indoor growing to get some experience under my belt and using it for breeding.

My girls are about a month into the flower cycle. Using colloidal silver on two to produce female pollen on specific branches (that turned out weird but I don't think it had any bearing on this discussion). I don't need to identify the deficiency. From home soil tests I've done the results were...

pH - 6.5
Nitrogen - very very low
Phosphorus - dead on
Potassium - very very depleted

Before I feed them again I want to know since my P and pH perfect (I think) if I feed them bloom nutes (options of HB&B 5-50-17, Kool Bloom 2-45-28, a dilution and or mix of both) to restore the K will it cause the pH and P to spike, giving me a different set of problems. Another thing is, should I kick up the N a notch or leave it super low. I'm about 4-5 weeks into an 8-10 week flower cycle.

I omitted any information regarding lighting and the soil they're in because I don't think it had any bearing on the answer, other than they were started in a well balanced soil with good living microorganisms.

Also, I'm on a very limited budget, so I'm not going to be purchasing anything more than say, $10-$20, If needed at all. After the 1st I'll have more cash to work with.

Thanks guys. If I'm missing any info necessary to answering this question, let me know, and I will do my best to provide it.

Oh, and the tent is outside, the temps have been drpping into the whole range of 40'sF at night. I'm running a seedling heating mat under the two Banana Ice Cream (right side), the Chocolate Nepal (left isn't very cold sensitive).

(*note* I'm growing these girls for seed so I'm not concerned about getting huge colas or a big swell.)

Need some advice on solving my potassium deficiencyaroun 5
Need some advice on solving my potassium deficiencyaroun
Need some advice on solving my potassium deficiencyaroun 6
Need some advice on solving my potassium deficiencyaroun 2
Need some advice on solving my potassium deficiencyaroun 3
Need some advice on solving my potassium deficiencyaroun 4
 
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SmithsJunk

SmithsJunk

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I read that I should flush then use some kelp nutes. Does this sound right?
 
crimsonecho

crimsonecho

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Molasses is your cheapest potassium source in this case. Or eat some bananas (most fruit peels will do also) burn the peels to ashes (i use an oven) mix with water and voila, you got a cheap potassium fert and you’re a healthier man since you ate your banana.
 
Trustfall

Trustfall

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I've done well with my outdoor grows (as a lot of you have seen) so I'm trying my hand at some indoor growing to get some experience under my belt and using it for breeding.

My girls are about a month into the flower cycle. Using colloidal silver on two to produce female pollen on specific branches (that turned out weird but I don't think it had any bearing on this discussion). I don't need to identify the deficiency. From home soil tests I've done the results were...

pH - 6.5
Nitrogen - very very low
Phosphorus - dead on
Potassium - very very depleted

Before I feed them again I want to know since my P and pH perfect (I think) if I feed them bloom nutes (options of HB&B 5-50-17, Kool Bloom 2-45-28, a dilution and or mix of both) to restore the K will it cause the pH and P to spike, giving me a different set of problems. Another thing is, should I kick up the N a notch or leave it super low. I'm about 4-5 weeks into an 8-10 week flower cycle.

I omitted any information regarding lighting and the soil they're in because I don't think it had any bearing on the answer, other than they were started in a well balanced soil with good living microorganisms.

Also, I'm on a very limited budget, so I'm not going to be purchasing anything more than say, $10-$20, If needed at all. After the 1st I'll have more cash to work with.

Thanks guys. If I'm missing any info necessary to answering this question, let me know, and I will do my best to provide it.

Oh, and the tent is outside, the temps have been drpping into the whole range of 40'sF at night. I'm running a seedling heating mat under the two Banana Ice Cream (right side), the Chocolate Nepal (left isn't very cold sensitive).

(*note* I'm growing these girls for seed so I'm not concerned about getting huge colas or a big swell.)

View attachment 842034 View attachment 842030 View attachment 842036 View attachment 842031 View attachment 842032 View attachment 842033
Your pots are getting too cold if that tent is outside with 40degree weather. Get them under a germ mat or at least some styrofoam.
 
Jmaes Mabley

Jmaes Mabley

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+1 to cold. Needs to be at least 65 anyway. 70-75 is better. When its cold, plants also use less food/water.

Plants are Nitrogen, and probably Magnesium/Sulfur deficient.

Id get some Calcium Nitrate 15.5-0-0, and Epsom Salts with the 2-25-28

Its a total myth weed needs less Nitrogen in flowering. Weed needs more of everything up until the last 2 weeks of an 8 weeks flowering strain.

In weeks 3-4 they need more MPK, and only 2 weeks, if not boosted then, you miss the window.

Then in weeks 5-6 they need a Magnesium Boost. 7-8 all food is Only Slightly backed off. Trick is NEVER Overfertilize, and shit wont build up.

Id use 20%-25% of recommended dose per 5 gallons water, and use this every time I watered.
28 will get you buy, but next round, if you use chemicals, Id invest in some Chem Gro 4-20-39...Calcium Nitrate...15.5-0-0, Mono Potassium Phosphate..0-52-34...Epsom Slats.

Many like Jacks. But forget those cheap fertilizers. They work, but are not optimal, and are not the proper NPK ratios for weed. A lot of stuff will work, but doesn't mean its optimal.
 
Jmaes Mabley

Jmaes Mabley

675
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I read that I should flush then use some kelp nutes. Does this sound right?


Kelp is great stuff, but isn't going to improve your situation. Even if you combined the 2 fertilizers its still only 7 on the N, and the need 20....Chem Gro says by Tissue Analysis they most effective ratios are 19.5-20-39.

Chem Gro has been making Plant Specific Fertilizer since 1968 or so.

Its simply to cold, and your plants are starved of Nitrogen, and Magnesium/Epsom Salts. IMHO.

I would also check PH at root Zone and PH after you add fert. You can also use a good Litmus Paper to check PH.
 
Last edited:
oldskol4evr

oldskol4evr

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I've done well with my outdoor grows (as a lot of you have seen) so I'm trying my hand at some indoor growing to get some experience under my belt and using it for breeding.

My girls are about a month into the flower cycle. Using colloidal silver on two to produce female pollen on specific branches (that turned out weird but I don't think it had any bearing on this discussion). I don't need to identify the deficiency. From home soil tests I've done the results were...

pH - 6.5
Nitrogen - very very low
Phosphorus - dead on
Potassium - very very depleted

Before I feed them again I want to know since my P and pH perfect (I think) if I feed them bloom nutes (options of HB&B 5-50-17, Kool Bloom 2-45-28, a dilution and or mix of both) to restore the K will it cause the pH and P to spike, giving me a different set of problems. Another thing is, should I kick up the N a notch or leave it super low. I'm about 4-5 weeks into an 8-10 week flower cycle.

I omitted any information regarding lighting and the soil they're in because I don't think it had any bearing on the answer, other than they were started in a well balanced soil with good living microorganisms.

Also, I'm on a very limited budget, so I'm not going to be purchasing anything more than say, $10-$20, If needed at all. After the 1st I'll have more cash to work with.

Thanks guys. If I'm missing any info necessary to answering this question, let me know, and I will do my best to provide it.

Oh, and the tent is outside, the temps have been drpping into the whole range of 40'sF at night. I'm running a seedling heating mat under the two Banana Ice Cream (right side), the Chocolate Nepal (left isn't very cold sensitive).

(*note* I'm growing these girls for seed so I'm not concerned about getting huge colas or a big swell.)

View attachment 842034 View attachment 842030 View attachment 842036 View attachment 842031 View attachment 842032 View attachment 842033
nitrogen can always be added,yours is depleted,so top dress a little ewc in the soil,your k is depleted,solve all the problems by using epsome salt 2tbs to gal water,epsome salt is calcium ,magnese and sulfur,the color will change when you add it,sulfur will bring back the green your after,i wouldnt go hog wild with the nitrogen either,use the salt wait a few days and the green come back,from what you describe above your pounding them with P,not always the best thing but if medicated in week interfuls you can have sucess,i think you have locked out the n and k with to much p if you dig,look at the soil scale and notice p and k are so close to each other,that locking um up really isnt hard to do if you dig,the reason i use oyster shell is for this reason ,late in the grow it benifits all the calcium uptake and just giving a tad of cal mag if needed isnt such a bother,,also the whole idea behind sub cools recipe and why he states clearly put in the bottom of pots,when your grow is harvest go to feed store they sell crushed oyster shell in 50 lb bags for 14 bucks,when you amend your used soil put it in there and let it cook with all others you use
 
SmithsJunk

SmithsJunk

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Do you test your ph after you mix your nutrients?

Do you mean the nutes themselves? No. Do I test the soil immediately afterwards? No. It's been a couple days since the last feeding.

Molasses is your cheapest potassium source in this case. Or eat some bananas (most fruit peels will do also) burn the peels to ashes (i use an oven) mix with water and voila, you got a cheap potassium fert and you’re a healthier man since you ate your banana.

I forgot to add that I also use Earth Juice Hi-Brix.

+1 to cold. Needs to be at least 65 anyway. 70-75 is better. When its cold, plants also use less food/water.

Plants are Nitrogen, and probably Magnesium/Sulfur deficient.

Id get some Calcium Nitrate 15.5-0-0, and Epsom Salts with the 2-25-28

Its a total myth weed needs less Nitrogen in flowering. Weed needs more of everything up until the last 2 weeks of an 8 weeks flowering strain.

In weeks 3-4 they need more MPK, and only 2 weeks, if not boosted then, you miss the window.

Then in weeks 5-6 they need a Magnesium Boost. 7-8 all food is Only Slightly backed off. Trick is NEVER Overfertilize, and shit wont build up.

Id use 20%-25% of recommended dose per 5 gallons water, and use this every time I watered.
28 will get you buy, but next round, if you use chemicals, Id invest in some Chem Gro 4-20-39...Calcium Nitrate...15.5-0-0, Mono Potassium Phosphate..0-52-34...Epsom Slats.

Many like Jacks. But forget those cheap fertilizers. They work, but are not optimal, and are not the proper NPK ratios for weed. A lot of stuff will work, but doesn't mean its optimal.

I don't overfertilise, like I said in my OP I'm a (somewhat) experienced grower (I'm not offended, just explaining). I've done near exactly what you've said. In fact, I let the good soil I bought feed them and used fertiliser to boost them a week after the flip. I run it at 1/8-1/4 of recommended dose. I switched from HB&B to Kool Bloom because I thought it was too much nitrogen causing the prob. I also flushed them with saponin.

I'm also not caring about optimal just functional. These girls are for seed, so I don't care how big the blooms are or how thick they are with crystals. I'm only trying to get decent little supply of seeds.

------------------------------


The advice I'm seeing recurring here is Epsom salt. I look into that today. I don't just run with advice, I weigh and filter it for veracity and applicability.

Thank you guys so much for your help. I'm going to go hit the books again weighing in what you're saying then goinh to visit my favorite horticulture teacher if she's working today.

I was and am till leaning towards Fox Farm Kelp Me Kelp you but if I find Epsom to be a better solution, then I'll use it.
 
SmithsJunk

SmithsJunk

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263
nitrogen can always be added,yours is depleted,so top dress a little ewc in the soil,your k is depleted,solve all the problems by using epsome salt 2tbs to gal water,epsome salt is calcium ,magnese and sulfur,the color will change when you add it,sulfur will bring back the green your after,i wouldnt go hog wild with the nitrogen either,use the salt wait a few days and the green come back,from what you describe above your pounding them with P,not always the best thing but if medicated in week interfuls you can have sucess,i think you have locked out the n and k with to much p if you dig,look at the soil scale and notice p and k are so close to each other,that locking um up really isnt hard to do if you dig,the reason i use oyster shell is for this reason ,late in the grow it benifits all the calcium uptake and just giving a tad of cal mag if needed isnt such a bother,,also the whole idea behind sub cools recipe and why he states clearly put in the bottom of pots,when your grow is harvest go to feed store they sell crushed oyster shell in 50 lb bags for 14 bucks,when you amend your used soil put it in there and let it cook with all others you use

Very nice, thank you.
 
1diesel1

1diesel1

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What kind of soil mix do you use? I usually ph to 6.5 in mine but hell after seeing your trees in thimbles I’m starting to rethink things ;-)
Roots organic 707 recently because I had a bunch left over from summer crop. Happy frog I’m also fond of. Recently been using emerald harvest for my base nutes but I tinker with a bunch of other nutrients for plant health. I used to strictly use botanicare .
 
JWM2

JWM2

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Roots organic 707 recently because I had a bunch left over from summer crop. Happy frog I’m also fond of. Recently been using emerald harvest for my base nutes but I tinker with a bunch of other nutrients for plant health. I used to strictly use botanicare .

What do you run your soils ph at? I’ve been running 6.5-6.7. It dips down to about 6.3 at times. Just curious.
 
crimsonecho

crimsonecho

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I have never, not once ever tested soil ph. I’m not joking.
I usually dont too but this run the soil ph came at 4 after ammending. Not healthy mainly because it makes aluminium (and various metals) very available for the plant. Bit of calcitic lime took care of it :)
 
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