Need some help with next years grow

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staples29

Hey guys, So after alot of research and thinking I have decided too grow the following strains for /10 outdoor season.

Dr Greenthumbs - Iranian Short Season or Autoflower (10)

http://drgreenthumb.com/GreenthumbSeedsProfiles.htm#Profile Iranian Short Season

Greenhouse Seeds - A.M.S. (10)

http://greenhouseseeds.nl/shop/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=20

Next Generation Seed Co. - Timewarp (12)

http://www.greenlifeseeds.com/index.php/Next-Generation-Seed-Co./Timewarp?keyword=timewarp
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I was wondering if anyone had any experience with these strains, I just want to know a simple yet good soil mix I should use,

What nutrients would you recommend me using?

Should I grow in the ground or buckets?

Thanks,
Staples29
 

OGkushsmoker

Guest
first of all to get your self to a good start your going to have to check out thcbay get some quality strains for a good price
 
K

knoxvillain1

Ok heres a great technique called raised beds i like to use for a outdoor grows. picked it up in a magazine article along with the soil mixture very informative magazine.

Raised Bed method is normally for situations you dont need to hide your grows from the likes of thieves and what not but you can do it anywhere with fantastic results your in ontario so it should work for you.

ok if your goin to have each plant grow big (you can scale these measurements down if not with relative ease) your goin to need 3x3ft frame per plant and youll want the frame to be about 2.5 feet tall. you can build this frame out of chicken wire or heavy duty wire with smaller holes your choice. you will then need a liner i prefer green cloth but any shad of cloth other than black works. this is something to hold the soil mixture and it also allows it to breath so dont use plastic as a liner. once you built your frame and got it all set up you can connect the seems however you like by the way just as long as there well connected, line the bottom with about 4" of mulch and then add another 4" of alfalfa hay on top of that. wet it down and then sprinkle all over the top 1 cup of blood meal 2 cups of bone meal 3 cups of greensand all available at your local co-op im sure. then build your soil mix. On top layer of soil mix use a mulch by the way shredded bark works great.

a soil mix recommended to use with raised beds goes like this

BASE MIX
1 part bagged soil mix
1 part compost (cannabis lawn clippings any kitchen scraps other than meat or grease)
1 part earthworm castings
1 part perlite

for every five gallons of that base mix add
3 tablespoons of green sand
3 level tablespoons of bonemeal
2 tablespoons of rock phosphorus
6 tablespoons of all purpose dry (something like 5-5-5 NPK

mix this alltogether fairly well and let it sit in the open for a few weeks and your good to go.

and remember compost is one of the best ways to go with nutrients for outdoor growing.

for watering methods you need to decide on a method youll use regularly if your going with city water check with them to see if there using chloramine a very harsh form of chlorine that cant boiled out if they are youll need a special filtration system

if your just goin to use distilled water or rainwater you made need to tweak the lime content of your soil mixture

if the city water doesnt use chloramine then youll still have to watch ph level itll prob start out at 9.0 youll need to drop it down to 6.0 ish or so using lemon lime or grape juice. city water usually has a good concentration of calcium and magnesium so keep that in mind if your goin to mess with your lime percentage of the soil

when you do water your plants i recommend a drip or soaker system and youll want to water extremely long and well so the roots will grow deep to chase the water.and this will also flush the minerals that tend to pool up around the roots and hinder its growth ability's

Good luck
 
pacificdunes74

pacificdunes74

NBC,ABC or CBS not sure but special about Mendo county

There was a special on last night I think and in Mendo Co they were growing in Raised beds and the Plants were HUGE!!
 
another_sellout

another_sellout

Raised beds are awesome, but expensive and time consuming, even for the handy and crafty DIY set. 35 gallon trash cans work just the same in a pinch for resources. People just leave 'em on the curb! Or they're ten bucks new. Whatever. Just remember to punch LOTS of holes in the bottom for proper drainage. Water retention in the bottom leads to an anaerobic stinking mess. Also $10: used 55 gallon food grade plastic barrels. Sawn in half hold an entire yard of soil! As for soil, a bail of Sunshine 4 will fill any of these containers (and then some) for $40! It's pH balanced peat, vermiculite, and coco coir. It retains moisture yet drains well, and you don't have to wait months for it to compost before you use it. So, you're paying under $50 per plant so far. That's pretty good. Next is nutes. Nutrients + H2O + sunlight + CO2 = your yield. If you skimp on your nutes, you're taking big sticky nuggets out of your own hands. Period. As for nutrients, I would say stick to the Foxfarm line. They're not organic, but they've provided me with great yields, and they were developed for outdoor plants in Humboldt. Just know that if you use the nutrient schedule they provide, you'll probably burn your plants. Less is more, especially with younger, smaller plants that don't even have roots that reach to where you're pouring all those nutes. Better to let them show a mild deficiency in one thing than to lock everything else out by burning them. Watering twice between each nutrient application also helps. On average, you can go through five gallons of water per day per plant in the summer. This is the worst time to over fertilize. Remember, since you provide all the nutes this is technically hydroponics, treat it accordingly. pH balance when you water, etc. Last advice: a SUPER MILD application of neem oil monthly will help keep spider mites off your plants. Good luck!
 
P

Pot Boy

I say put them in the ground with the proper amendments they will grow crazy big.

I use 1\4 cup lime
1\3 cup osmocoat
1\2 cup dried blood
1\2 cup bone meal

For the vegetative grow then when the start flowing I give them a nice shot of phosphate..Good luck stay safe.. and remeber tell no one!
 
P

pokerman

i 2nd that put them in the ground....cuz if u use bags they will dry up more faster cuz the plants once they r big will be suckin them dry and will be more work for u later on.......
 
K

Kalcu

Raised beds are not at all going to work for an illegal crop, other than perhaps Poppies in a country they don't normally do well in (for drainage purposes). I don't know why raised beds would do well with cannabis, other than perhaps the drainage and the extra heat...which isn't that good later on in the season.

There is a better Iranian strain from a seed company many do not prefer, it's Black Indica. There are many good strains, if Reeferman ever gets his package to the Bay then try out Happy Hindu!

I prefer to find native soils, particularly humus. I find a tree, a very very large tree that is old, old growth. You ever see a huge tree that started rotting on the inside and left this dark, soft, deep bed in the hallow area or around the tree? That is humus, that is the best stuff on earth but it holds A LOT OF MOISTURE!

It's good for droughts but it needs some coco which is cheap to ship and quality as well as some perlite and vermiculite. Then of course all of your dried nutrients that are called 'meals'. Kelp meal (they are the best for plants as far as additives), Alfalfa meal, Blood and bone meal, as well as green sand. Normal sand also works well for the Humus that I find, there is hardly anything to pick out of this stuff and I find probably in the area of 40 gallon sources. The one tree that has kicked this stuff out, due to old age and bugs that push this stuff out to find a home (and nope, I haven't ever had any bug problems from this stuff, ever!)...plus it helps at home to put it in a crock pot and steam it, mostly to get some water out as it's probably over a decade old. I just did this to my last pick up from the outdoors, it was frozen and still broke apart with a shovel....your not going to get that from most 'soil'...which humus isn't soil, not even the humus layer of normal earth is this fluffy...it's not even integrated into the forest floor at this stage.


Humus is almost as good as biochar, which I am interested in working into the medium. Humus is just very mature compost, it's not going to break down anymore. The tree that I got some Humus for indoors from is a very old growth Beech or Birch, then there is an unknown family of tree that has turned onto it's side that has canoed itself. It has formed a canoe basically, that has rotted so all this humus stays inside. I do find some roots, but these easily pick out and I've never had weeds grow from this. A tiny bit of citric acid is also good to lower the PH since these dry fertilizers are quite alkaline for cannabis's preference. Citric acid is quite natural and it's a great idea to throw some citric peals into a compost pile. Test a tiny bit of the humus with a water sample that has a known PH. Humus is typically very high in humic acid, which some people pay to add to their grows. If you filtered peat moss, it's looks just like what passes through a fairly fine mesh.

I also am interested in a product available nationwide, it's by a company called Epsoma and it's a full range dry nutrient. They have a starter bag that is probably around three pounds and it doesn't have micro's but it has the fungus that aid's root uptake as well as the bacteria of every kind to colonize (not that these aren't around, it just might not be every strain of fungus and bacteria in your native soil). It is mostly feather meal, cotton meal and cow manure.

Some liquid fertilizers do well, I have PBP and pure blend as well as Maxi crop liquid. Some seabird guano, two forms, one is for veg and one for flower, I am curious what differences there are between seabird and bat guano. The epsoma product also works well for a top feeding, all three of these are alkaline so some citric acid is good to lightly mix in the powder for top dressings. Of course dry kelp meal also makes a fine top dressing and not just for mixing into plots.

So I know that people don't want to find native soils, but the good stuff doesn't look usable because it's not in a bag! The humus just takes an eye and knowing where to search, it's so very nice once you put it in a pile and put your hands into it and feel how lose and soft it is...cutting that with coco is a good idea so it drains better, then mixing in the dry nutrients. I always go through the humus with my hand, to find any chunks that may be foreign. I find very very little in there and it's mostly roots from local plants and sometimes moss...the moss tends to grow on a log that at times forms humus. It seems to take the perfect conditions to rot a log slowly in such a way to build humus...it just piles up!

I also find these rotting logs, they are red, they are soft and act like sponges that easily break apart. I mix this into my humus for a little more fresh organic matter that isn't decade or two humus (which your not going to find humus that old in a store!). It breaks into nice sized particles that are not chunky and retains water like a sponge...but it's porous enough to retain gases.

If you have clay soil, put some Gypsum into it. At least work that into the clay soil around your hole that you fill in. It takes about two or three years of treating the spot once a year, but it makes clay soil as soft and manageable as any other soil...so there are many options, it's all about how much effort you will put into what you have.

Also go for cover plants more than the local soil, you can haul in whatever you need. Unless your in the desert there are local plants putting large piles of humus back into nature. It's not infested, it's not rotted like compost that is moldy, it's good stuff. I don't grab the humus that is growing moss, or any weeds, it's usually to high up or still putting more out that covers any plants. I do find a little bit of mycelium in some humus, but that just means it's good stuff if shrooms enjoy! As a matter of fact I am considering using these humus sources as mushroom casings. There is at least one strain that is local to my state that loves birch and beech.

If you have ever seen a hole in a tree and put your hand in there, and grabbed soil from inside a tree....that's the gold, it is good enough to grow pot out of a tree that has one of these...they usually run deep and mix well with your dry nutrients.

I don't put lime into the mixes anymore since I get plenty of magnesium and almost ever single dry fertilizer is actually alkaline and cannabis likes a touch of acid. That and there is so much lime stone ins this area, that I find PH readings in local rivers at 8! That isn't low, I would of thought that local rivers in most area's would be slightly acid. So I have no problems with a lime shortage, it's an over abundance.

Don't forget at least a one foot fence around your plant and let some of the bottom sit in your hole before you fill it in....and wrap some copper around the base, then it's just inspecting for bugs and dealing with those as well as feeding (that doesn't mean over feeding or under).:hi

I hope that isn't over kill for you, but it's winter and I thoroughly enjoy quality soil. I have yet to find a bagged soil that floats my boat. It's expensive, especially if you ship the product (it's outrages to ship that much weight). They add good nutrients but typically have a crappy medium. Which is a matter of a fact just filler, even peat moss has stems and twigs which my humus that I find doesn't. Most of all, it's free and easily workable.

If I get my camera working or get a new one, I will show just how lovely this free source is and what it looks like finding it. Anywhere you have old growth that is rotting, your likely to find many gallons of this free, wonderful substrate.:icon_animal26:
 
Dr.stickerdick

Dr.stickerdick

Kalcu great read. I've got some timber near me and know there is a good amount of what you're reefering to. I've found this stuff while out hunting morels in the spring and thought it was just like spagnum moss and considered using it, now I will. Peace
 
F

fishcabo

My biggest plants ever come from raised beds. Granted, I have a private yard with 6'fencing and other landscape to help camo. I also have a mmj rec. so no problems with the police. I use a 6' diameter x 2' galvanized watering trough with holes punched in the bottom. Every year, i sweeten up the soil with amendments such a nitrohumus, alpacca dung (2years old), etc. I had no choice as my ground is bad clay. Unless you live in the country, this is usually the case because when subdivisions are graded, all the top soil goes by by. I usually plant no more than three plants in the trough. Last year my gdp cross yielded 2.5 lbs. dry (one plant). Stem as big as a bat. I kept the plant tied down so it never go taller than 6' (including the trough so plant was 4' tall but 6' wide at least). Last year i did an experiment and dug out a hole in the clay and put good soil in and plant a clone there also. I turned out to be a runt. I do run all my outdoor plants on drip so raised beds are required because they are so forgiving. Clay soil is like a bucket. Even if the top of the dirt looks drained, there most likely is standing water at the bottom. This will stunt a plant every time.
 
K

Kalcu

That is what I am worried about fishcabo, I have thought about putting rocks at the bottom (digging deeper to put something where water can go but roots don't. .....even thought about just working more gypsum down there but all in all even a foot more deeper just for drainage is still going to have a water table developing.

Every hole is at a higher elevation, three are actually at the top of a 'hill' that has a creek behind it...so they are right at the top of this slope that apparently drains behind them....not real close either, it's not steep.

It seems to be coming down to monitoring the rain, if it rains a lot then well the bottoms will be moist....so that means no pouring a gallon or perhaps even a half gallon...as your right, these clay holes do remind me of 5 gallon buckets made from earth.

Any ideas on how to design a hole that drains better, let me know. I have thought about running pipe into the ground....to create holes, but even those might fill up with water...but it's gotta help the drainage....it's I can bang in a small pipe to take a nice long/deep running core sample...that leaves drainage routes a lot easier than using a shovel to remove what has to be filled back in.
 
C

cheech

Staples, if you've already found a spot you might want to grow in and it supports good growth of other plants you might just want to dig small holes and plant em without messing with the soil too much. That's what I'm doing this season. My first season that's what I did with 9 plants and had a good yield. Next season I dug big holes then mixed the clay soil with peat moss and made raised beds, yields didn't improve. Year after that I used grow bags with quality soil, still no improvement. <-- this was all recommended by other growers. This year I'm going back to the most basic method. My recommendation is to try a few different methods rather than commit to one method that requires a ridiculous amount of work. You might find that the extra work(which can be back breaking) isn't worth the effort(AT ALL). As to strains, the only strain I grew that you mentioned was AMS and it was pretty kick ass. I also like green house church strain. awesome buzz. If anyone knows of a strain that for sure finishes by sept in Northern US(42 degree lat), please post it.
 
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