New RDWC grow featuring Mendel’s Æther by Brother Mendel

[SweetLeafGrow]

Are you using the jacks 5-12-26 RO formula?

No, using the GH trio with calmag.

 

[Anthem]

No, using the GH trio with calmag.

It does look similar to Calcium Def. but the timing is wrong. Those look to be young plants. Typically Calcium Def. show up when demand is the highest which is week 1-3 of 12/12. Secondly Calcium is basically semi-mobile so it is most common a node or 2 down from the very top of the plant on fan leaves getting the most light. I do not see calcium Def. In my opinion but been wrong before.

 

[smokedareefer]

It does look similar to Calcium Def. but the timing is wrong. Those look to be young plants. Typically Calcium Def. show up when demand is the highest which is week 1-3 of 12/12. Secondly Calcium is basically semi-mobile so it is most common a node or 2 down from the very top of the plant on fan leaves getting the most light. I do not see calcium Def. In my opinion but been wrong before.

I may be wrong but i think shes on about day 33 today

 

[SweetLeafGrow]

It does look similar to Calcium Def. but the timing is wrong. Those look to be young plants. Typically Calcium Def. show up when demand is the highest which is week 1-3 of 12/12. Secondly Calcium is basically semi-mobile so it is most common a node or 2 down from the very top of the plant on fan leaves getting the most light. I do not see calcium Def. In my opinion but been wrong before.

Thanks Anthem. So I flipped this gal on Jan 29 and she started to show flowers a bit over a week later, I'd say 10 days. So I would say I am pretty close to the beginning of that 4th week into flowering where I would start counting the weeks, 5 weeks from flip. I would also add that this plant has been far from typical, at least with my limited experience. Seems to be quite finicky to me.

I would say that this is showing the damage a node or two down as you described....not really seeing it on the upper sugar leaves coming out of the flowers.

If not Cal def, what are your thoughts?

 

[SweetLeafGrow]

I may be wrong but i think shes on about day 33 today

Yup, pretty close.

 

[Anthem]

Thanks Anthem. So I flipped this gal on Jan 29 and she started to show flowers a bit over a week later, I'd say 10 days. So I would say I am pretty close to the beginning of that 4th week into flowering where I would start counting the weeks, 5 weeks from flip. I would also add that this plant has been far from typical, at least with my limited experience. Seems to be quite finicky to me.

I would say that this is showing the damage a node or two down as you described....not really seeing it on the upper sugar leaves coming out of the flowers.

If not Cal def, what are your thoughts?

I screwed up and looked at the wrong pictures. Give me a couple minutes

 

[Anthem]

This is one finicky bitch from what I can tell. I had added more Epsom salt and did not seem to help, I was wondering if I was adding too much so I decided to go ahead and change out the res for the first time on this grow. She has been sulfur hungry and I haven't seemed to be able to get a grasp on that.

I went ahead and changed out the res for first week bloom ratios for the added sulfur. I'm going to be flipping, my guess would be within a weeks time so I'll look at this as a transition. When I finished, she's sitting at 1220 ppm, 6.1 ph and letting her ride down through the acceptable range.

It's kind of hard to tell in the photos but the light pale green is still a problem and hoping to see that resolved in the next day or two.

Your last picture on this post is showing deformed new leaves. I believe you mentioned on that post or the post before that you were running the PH at 6.1 and going to let it ride. That is often the cause for the deformed new growth, light can also be a problem when you see this sort of deformation in new growth. Ideally I like to stay at 5.7 in veg and first couple weeks of flower and run it up to 5.8 or 5.9 towards the end of flower. PH is extremely critical when you are running hydro.

 

[Anthem]

Sweet Leaf I went thru this thread and there are some things I would do a little different but that is just me.
#1. I believe you probably figured out by now that the early training in veg was a little too much. If. you go back thru the thread and look you are going to find a lot of the work you did early in veg kind of got eliminated. I would suggest topping as well as training in combination. nothing wrong with either but together I believe you will get better results and start to develop your bud site locations earlier on.
#2. I run flood and drain fro hydro but I do not do top offs. I change nutrients every week. I add just plain RO a couple times thru out the week. I do have to add microbes every week but I believe it is a pretty inexpensive cost at about 80 bucks for a gallon of def guard, so I do not worry about the cost of def guard or well nutrients to be honest. I run dry salts and the cost is not much of a problem. This is rough but for like 200 dollars I can make about 3000 gallons of nutrients at an EC of 1.8.
#3. If you are seeing leaf tip burn during veg your solution is too high, as you learned. Leaf tip burn if it happens should be like week 5 or 6 of flower. While some believe it is meaning the plant is right on the edge I believe you do not really want leaf tip burn at all, but the more leaf tip burn the higher the amount of excess nutrients in the plant and that means it is going to take longer for the plant to reduce the excess nutrients, hence more of a requirement to flush.
#4. Your problems in veg are so hard to make sure exactly what was the problem. Looks like the Epsom Salt helps with the issue, but how exactly did the Epsom Salt help, was it a Mag Def, or sulphur? Both are used in fairly low amounts, but did you also keep a better eye on the PH. For me PH is extremely critical, to me using PH meters. The more accurately you can control the PH of your Rez the better it is for the plant.

You are doing really really well for only growing a short amount of time. You have a good basic understanding of the plant and realize the plant needs and such. If you start to see the light green on the new growth that is an indicator of an upcoming problem. Really you never really want to see that but it can be difficult to stop it before it really starts to happen. If you start to see it, consider a couple of things. Probably the number one reason why this occurs is because too much light too quick for the plant. PH is another thing that can cause this. Additionally it can be temperature related. The bad looking fan leaves in the veg phase could have been caused by the plant getting too hot as well.

There are many ways to grow and often people do things differently with success so really it is up to you to decide what works for you. When you ask for help try to develop your own answer before you ask for help, you may or may not want to post your thoughts on the problem, I have found it is helpful to do this because you will get a better understanding of the problems quicker. You can also apply this to threads here on the farm. When someone posts a problem try and figure out the problem and see if your ideas are correct by just looking at the posted fixes. But again remember everyone grows different.

 

[steamroller]

Sweet Leaf I went thru this thread and there are some things I would do a little different but that is just me.
#1. I believe you probably figured out by now that the early training in veg was a little too much. If. you go back thru the thread and look you are going to find a lot of the work you did early in veg kind of got eliminated. I would suggest topping as well as training in combination. nothing wrong with either but together I believe you will get better results and start to develop your bud site locations earlier on.
#2. I run flood and drain fro hydro but I do not do top offs. I change nutrients every week. I add just plain RO a couple times thru out the week. I do have to add microbes every week but I believe it is a pretty inexpensive cost at about 80 bucks for a gallon of def guard, so I do not worry about the cost of def guard or well nutrients to be honest. I run dry salts and the cost is not much of a problem. This is rough but for like 200 dollars I can make about 3000 gallons of nutrients at an EC of 1.8.
#3. If you are seeing leaf tip burn during veg your solution is too high, as you learned. Leaf tip burn if it happens should be like week 5 or 6 of flower. While some believe it is meaning the plant is right on the edge I believe you do not really want leaf tip burn at all, but the more leaf tip burn the higher the amount of excess nutrients in the plant and that means it is going to take longer for the plant to reduce the excess nutrients, hence more of a requirement to flush.
#4. Your problems in veg are so hard to make sure exactly what was the problem. Looks like the Epsom Salt helps with the issue, but how exactly did the Epsom Salt help, was it a Mag Def, or sulphur? Both are used in fairly low amounts, but did you also keep a better eye on the PH. For me PH is extremely critical, to me using PH meters. The more accurately you can control the PH of your Rez the better it is for the plant.

You are doing really really well for only growing a short amount of time. You have a good basic understanding of the plant and realize the plant needs and such. If you start to see the light green on the new growth that is an indicator of an upcoming problem. Really you never really want to see that but it can be difficult to stop it before it really starts to happen. If you start to see it, consider a couple of things. Probably the number one reason why this occurs is because too much light too quick for the plant. PH is another thing that can cause this. Additionally it can be temperature related. The bad looking fan leaves in the veg phase could have been caused by the plant getting too hot as well.

There are many ways to grow and often people do things differently with success so really it is up to you to decide what works for you. When you ask for help try to develop your own answer before you ask for help, you may or may not want to post your thoughts on the problem, I have found it is helpful to do this because you will get a better understanding of the problems quicker. You can also apply this to threads here on the farm. When someone posts a problem try and figure out the problem and see if your ideas are correct by just looking at the posted fixes. But again remember everyone grows different.

GOLD !!!!
Thanks for sharing with all.

 

[SweetLeafGrow]

#1. I believe you probably figured out by now that the early training in veg was a little too much. If. you go back thru the thread and look you are going to find a lot of the work you did early in veg kind of got eliminated. I would suggest topping as well as training in combination. nothing wrong with either but together I believe you will get better results and start to develop your bud site locations earlier on.

#2. I run flood and drain fro hydro but I do not do top offs. I change nutrients every week. I add just plain RO a couple times thru out the week. I do have to add microbes every week but I believe it is a pretty inexpensive cost at about 80 bucks for a gallon of def guard, so I do not worry about the cost of def guard or well nutrients to be honest. I run dry salts and the cost is not much of a problem. This is rough but for like 200 dollars I can make about 3000 gallons of nutrients at an EC of 1.8.

I have thought about doing frequent res changes and if I have to go that route, I will. Needing to be as frugal as possible and also limited on time lately so I have been trying to go the distance with amendments. Like you said, folks do things differently and I have seen where guys have had success that way. I'm learning and will settle on what works for me once I have more hydro grows under my belt.

#3. If you are seeing leaf tip burn during veg your solution is too high, as you learned. Leaf tip burn if it happens should be like week 5 or 6 of flower. While some believe it is meaning the plant is right on the edge I believe you do not really want leaf tip burn at all, but the more leaf tip burn the higher the amount of excess nutrients in the plant and that means it is going to take longer for the plant to reduce the excess nutrients, hence more of a requirement to flush.

Yea, I had seen where this is used as a barometer to see how hard you are pushing the plants. I may have to reconsider this practice, I hear you.

#4. Your problems in veg are so hard to make sure exactly what was the problem. Looks like the Epsom Salt helps with the issue, but how exactly did the Epsom Salt help, was it a Mag Def, or sulphur? Both are used in fairly low amounts, but did you also keep a better eye on the PH. For me PH is extremely critical, to me using PH meters. The more accurately you can control the PH of your Rez the better it is for the plant.

Yea, I did not know what was going on early with this plant and eventually I wrote it off to the genetics. I am not convinced there was a sulfur def or mag for that matter. It was advice that was given me that I explored, in the end I did not think it was sulfur, I did not notice any difference after adding epsom salt. I always keep an eye on pH and understand the critical nature of this parameter. When I said I was letting it ride @6.1, it was because I was seeing a downward trend in ph so I would bring it up to that 6.0 range and let it ride down through 5.5 over the course of several days. From what I understand, this is a fairly standard practice. I try to keep everything between 5.5 and 6.1 and rarely does it ever sway from that range.

You are doing really really well for only growing a short amount of time. You have a good basic understanding of the plant and realize the plant needs and such. If you start to see the light green on the new growth that is an indicator of an upcoming problem. Really you never really want to see that but it can be difficult to stop it before it really starts to happen. If you start to see it, consider a couple of things. Probably the number one reason why this occurs is because too much light too quick for the plant. PH is another thing that can cause this. Additionally it can be temperature related. The bad looking fan leaves in the veg phase could have been caused by the plant getting too hot as well.

Thank you for your compliments! I did see that light green from the beginning and was on the board trying to figure it out. I checked each of the parameters you listed and as far as I could tell, they were all in line. I know it wasn't too hot as we have been in the dead of winter here and I have struggled to get it to 78F during the day. The cheap MarsHydro light could be to blame, although I had that bugger pretty high during all this and dialed way back on intensity. Unless my pH meter was way out of whack, the pH has been good, calibrated it yesterday and was not bad off at all.

I shook my head and wrote it off to a genetic thing. I have read where some strains are easy to grow and others, not so much. I'm wondering if that is what I am dealing with here.

There are many ways to grow and often people do things differently with success so really it is up to you to decide what works for you. When you ask for help try to develop your own answer before you ask for help, you may or may not want to post your thoughts on the problem, I have found it is helpful to do this because you will get a better understanding of the problems quicker. You can also apply this to threads here on the farm. When someone posts a problem try and figure out the problem and see if your ideas are correct by just looking at the posted fixes. But again remember everyone grows different.

 

[Anthem]

I have thought about doing frequent res changes and if I have to go that route, I will. Needing to be as frugal as possible and also limited on time lately so I have been trying to go the distance with amendments. Like you said, folks do things differently and I have seen where guys have had success that way. I'm learning and will settle on what works for me once I have more hydro grows under my belt.


Yea, I had seen where this is used as a barometer to see how hard you are pushing the plants. I may have to reconsider this practice, I hear you.


Yea, I did not know what was going on early with this plant and eventually I wrote it off to the genetics. I am not convinced there was a sulfur def or mag for that matter. It was advice that was given me that I explored, in the end I did not think it was sulfur, I did not notice any difference after adding epsom salt. I always keep an eye on pH and understand the critical nature of this parameter. When I said I was letting it ride @6.1, it was because I was seeing a downward trend in ph so I would bring it up to that 6.0 range and let it ride down through 5.5 over the course of several days. From what I understand, this is a fairly standard practice. I try to keep everything between 5.5 and 6.1 and rarely does it ever sway from that range.


Thank you for your compliments! I did see that light green from the beginning and was on the board trying to figure it out. I checked each of the parameters you listed and as far as I could tell, they were all in line. I know it wasn't too hot as we have been in the dead of winter here and I have struggled to get it to 78F during the day. The cheap MarsHydro light could be to blame, although I had that bugger pretty high during all this and dialed way back on intensity. Unless my pH meter was way out of whack, the pH has been good, calibrated it yesterday and was not bad off at all.

I shook my head and wrote it off to a genetic thing. I have read where some strains are easy to grow and others, not so much. I'm wondering if that is what I am dealing with here.

PH dropping is a sign of needing to increase PPM's. I mentioned PH meters and all I have connected to these is PH down.

 

[SweetLeafGrow]

Getting close.