No ph adjustment using Jack's 321

[Slappyjack]

I've been doing DWC for about 3 years now. I try something a little different each time. This run, I've tried never testing or adjusting ph. I use tap water that's 8.8 ph (known from 100s of tests over the last few years). I let it dechlorinate for an hour, add Jack's 321 and let it sit for 20 minutes, add calmag, and hydroguard, and then it goes into the reservoirs. No ph testing or adjustment, and no EC or TDS testing.

All autos. Front left is zkittles (I topped it), front right is bubblegum, back right is green crack, and back left is LSD 25. Zkittles and green crack went into rapid rooters on Sept 18th. Bubblegum and LSD on October 5th. Light is 4 QB132s pulling just under 600w at the wall. 16 hours on, 8 hours off. 4x4 tent I haven't gotten less than 2 pounds per run in the last 2 years.

Just wanted to put this out there for people wondering about how far you can push the ph testing in hydro when using Jack's 321.

 

[Aqua Man]

I bet if you do some testing you'll find you right in the proper zone for ph etc. Not all tap is created equal. Its not the ph of the tap water that matters... its the alkalinity as thins will determine the outcome of the ph after all your nutrients are added.

When I use my mega crop 1 with my tap it comes out acceptable bit I do adjust a bit further.

Like I say it doesn't really matter what nutrients you use if your starting water alkalinity meshes with your nutrients you absolutely may not need to make any adjustments and depending on chelates used you can feed over a larger ph range and be fine. But that doesn't mean that will be the case for everyone.

 

[Slappyjack]

I bet if you do some testing you'll find you right in the proper zone for ph etc. Not all tap is created equal. Its not the ph of the tap water that matters... its the alkalinity as thins will determine the outcome of the ph after all your nutrients are added.

When I use my mega crop 1 with my tap it comes out acceptable bit I do adjust a bit further.

Like I say it doesn't really matter what nutrients you use if your starting water alkalinity meshes with your nutrients you absolutely may not need to make any adjustments and depending on chelates used you can feed over a larger ph range and be fine. But that doesn't mean that will be the case for everyone.

It must be in an acceptable range because nute uptake is still occurring. I used to use GH3 and experienced nute lock out a few times. When I first started using Jack's, I'd ph down to 5.8 and it'd walk up to 6.7. Always made me nervous because, for me, 6.7 using GH3 would give me problems very quickly. I like what I've got going on now.

I guess my main reason for starting this thread was to let new growers know they can experiment. When I started growing, I was told "if this or that happens, plants will die, yield would suffer, quality will suck, etc.". Now I've got grows in 110° Temps, rh ranging from 10% to 90%, and a slew of "fix it now or they'll die" conditions under my belt.

Don't get me wrong, I understand that optimal conditions do impact yields, quality, density, etc. The difference in product between optimal conditions and acceptable conditions isn't always as drastic as some new growers may think though.

For new growers finding this thread, remember that's it's called weed for a reason.

Thanks for the comment Aqua Man.