No Til Amending Question

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kuz

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A buddy of mine is cousins with the guy who invented the grounding things. You plug them into the wall (not using electricity, just grounding the probe) and stick the probe into your soil.

I wonder if it is the same at all? With the para-magnetic rocks?
I am not familiar with that, do they have a website? Like I ever have a spare outlet to plug something in. lol. I didnt look into the electromagnetic field theory too much.
 
shemshemet

shemshemet

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Very helpful input 50yard.....

If you're going to call bullshit, please back it up.

Or you could politely ask lady to back her information up.

But please don't just post to say you call bullshit. It doesn't do anything. Except annoy me.
 
50YardLine

50YardLine

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Heaven forbid I annoy you, my Lord and savior. lol.

I didn't make the claim, so I don't have to back anything up. However, have you ever heard of a product that will take away flowering time? Ever once? It's absurd. Then she claims it has chitlin, phosphorous and phosphatase. None of which shorten flowering time.

In fact, I find when growing healthy plants all the way through harvest, it actually lengthens your flowering window. I do this year after year. When most people are chopping the same strain in early Oct, I let them go to late Oct. When doing this, the smells, oils and flavors really come out. When grown properly, the trichome heads don't mature as fast either, its all due to proper nutrient application and the plant wont die off due to improper nutrients.
 
50YardLine

50YardLine

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Here is a review Coot's put on Build-a-soil regarding enzyme teas

Clackamas Coot on March 04 2014 at 04:53AM
RE: Seed Types

The primary reason that I originally used barley seeds was that there are serious books available on the subject for brewers who live and die by maximizing the enzyme levels in their malts. That is also true with distillers for products derived from barley like Scotch whiskey. Corn is used to make bourbon and so on but at the very core of the process are enzymes.

After I figured out the barley approach I began to use other seeds and legumes: pinto beans, navy beans, lima beans, soybeans, brown rices and even Bhutan red rice and it was my experience that the actual seed didn’t matter much at all. The effects were as dramatic with pinto beans as they are with barley.

There are 2 major exceptions: alfalfa seeds and corn. You can read a lot about the alfalfa compound (auxin) Triacontanol which is found in alfalfa meal. What gets lost in the discussion is that the sprouting alfalfa’s production of this auxin is at its maximum meaning that go gently into that good night if you choose to sprout alfalfa seeds. Start with 1/2 the amount you would with most other seeds.

The other big one is corn and this seed produces a wide range of Cytokinins on par with coconut water. With the international market demand for coconut water is pushing the price higher and higher and it’s only going to get worse. By using sprouted corn teas you will get the benefits from the Cytokinins without the expense. You don’t need to order organic corn seeds online or jump through hoops – just head over to your favorite supermarket and go to the popcorn section and buy an organic popcorn. Even Wallmart carries 3 or 4 brands of organic popcorn.

One thing about using corn is that I found it easier to puree these seeds once the tap roots grew out to 1" or so which softened the original corn seed.

I switch between alfalfa and corn seeds during the vegetative for the compounds I mentioned. Cytokinins will increase the girth and tinsel strength of the side branches and stronger branches will produce larger and heavier flowers.

And finally consider this: enzymes function as catalysts which are responsible for thousands of metabolic processes that sustain plant, animal and human life. True, pure Fulvic acid is described by Dr. Robert Faust (BioAg and NOT Bio-Ag) as a ‘catalysts of catalysts’ so what I do is add Fulvic acid to the ready-to-apply tea and feel that the increased benefits justify the cost which if you buy BioAg Ful-Power correctly you can save over 40% vs. the MSRP.

HTH

Clackamas Coot
 
shemshemet

shemshemet

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So then ask for some backup politely, instead of closing your mind to the idea something can shorten flower time, even when you claim something can do the opposite.

I ask for a little bit of decency, not for blind slight remarks.

I'd like to know what is what with the SST, not just bash anybody who says anything contrary to my thoughts.

Edit:

Thanks for some info. Still doesn't say anything about flowering time.
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

Living dead girl
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2 row and 6 row barley is best
How do you know what type it is? I've read this somewh
The primary reason that I originally used barley seeds was that there are serious books available on the subject for brewers who live and die by maximizing the enzyme levels in their malts.
:rolleyes: I love when people take credit for stuff they didn't think of on their own.
 
LadyL.Bean

LadyL.Bean

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How do you know what type it is? I've read this somewhere.

:rolleyes: I love when people take credit for stuff they didn't think of on their own.
barley1.jpg


It's how the grains are formed. The 6 row has more enzymes, proteins and carbs than 2 row. I can only get 2 row and it works well for me. I can't attest for shortened flower but I was really impressed during veg. I didn't think it was possible to see such growth rates. Health of the plants was impressive. All that info can be found if you look for it. I'm not sure if I can post the link.

Hello Seamaiden! Glad to finally meet you. Ive read some of your posts in the women's forum at IC. :) learned VPD from ya to. Thanks!
 
50YardLine

50YardLine

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SeaMaiden, we know each other so please don't take this personal. Just giving you some poop.


I love reading about the malted barley folks are using, I really think I was the first one to try it, to excellent results.

:rolleyes: I love when people take credit for stuff they didn't think of on their own.

LOL, just playing. However Coots is the man, and has started many organic trends. Including providing several soil yards with "ideal soil." He and Michael Astrea, author of the book The Ideal Soil, have developed some of the best soil I have ever used in my life. Really amazing stuff. He also works closely with Build-a-Soil, arguably the best cannabis related suppliers in the country. They sell many products that Coots has developed.
 
Topofthecrop

Topofthecrop

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Great thread. There is also cytoplus from bioag that is a little better I believe. If not covered yet. Also yes this is a liquid as I try to stay away from most liquid nutrients but Earth Juice Catalyst is a hell of a product as an additional additive. It carries barley and yeast. I use it in my brews...
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

Living dead girl
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barley1.jpg


It's how the grains are formed. The 6 row has more enzymes, proteins and carbs than 2 row. I can only get 2 row and it works well for me. I can't attest for shortened flower but I was really impressed during veg. I didn't think it was possible to see such growth rates. Health of the plants was impressive. All that info can be found if you look for it. I'm not sure if I can post the link.

Hello Seamaiden! Glad to finally meet you. Ive read some of your posts in the women's forum at IC. :) learned VPD from ya to. Thanks!
Glad to meet you as well, Lady, and I'm happy to see more women coming onto fora like this. I was hoping there was a way to tell when you're buying the barley grain itself. I seem to recall reading an article in Acres, USA about the various barley types, and I recall seeing a photo similar to that showing how these types come by their names, but I don't recall seeing anything discussing how the average consumer might find out what type they've purchased or are about to purchase. I simply buy it in bulk, non-pearled, at a local market, but it's not marked as to the type. I figure something is better than nothing.
SeaMaiden, we know each other so please don't take this personal. Just giving you some poop.






LOL, just playing. However Coots is the man, and has started many organic trends. Including providing several soil yards with "ideal soil." He and Michael Astrea, author of the book The Ideal Soil, have developed some of the best soil I have ever used in my life. Really amazing stuff. He also works closely with Build-a-Soil, arguably the best cannabis related suppliers in the country. They sell many products that Coots has developed.
I know this, and I believe he recalls some of the history behind this particular trend. Granted, the discussions occurred in private messages on ICM, and there's a whole *other* history there as to why I no longer have access to those. I am simply stating what *I* know to be a fact.

I'm not arguing that anything that he says beyond that one thing. But being given and taking full credit for an idea that is not solely his is not being entirely honest. In fact, it wasn't until a few years after all of our PMs that I learned that working with sprouted seeds is one of the methods and concepts of KNF (Korean Natural Farming), which, again as I understand it, has been around a fair while.

That's my only real argument on this particular subject, other than he and some... 'unsavory' associates are one of the main reasons why I left the other site. Since it got really personal, it's hard for me to not take it personally, ya dig? Hopefully he no longer associates with these people.

In the meantime, I hope you read the Terms of Use when you signed up. If not, you might want to go back over them again. This is not a site where everyone gets to practice free speech. It's a cannabis site, and one of the things we ask our members to do is treat each other with respect so as to keep things from degenerating.
 
LadyL.Bean

LadyL.Bean

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Glad to meet you as well, Lady, and I'm happy to see more women coming onto fora like this. I was hoping there was a way to tell when you're buying the barley grain itself. I seem to recall reading an article in Acres, USA about the various barley types, and I recall seeing a photo similar to that showing how these types come by their names, but I don't recall seeing anything discussing how the average consumer might find out what type they've purchased or are about to purchase. I simply buy it in bulk, non-pearled, at a local market, but it's not marked as to the type. I figure something is better than nothing.

I know this, and I believe he recalls some of the history behind this particular trend. Granted, the discussions occurred in private messages on ICM, and there's a whole *other* history there as to why I no longer have access to those. I am simply stating what *I* know to be a fact.

I'm not arguing that anything that he says beyond that one thing. But being given and taking full credit for an idea that is not solely his is not being entirely honest. In fact, it wasn't until a few years after all of our PMs that I learned that working with sprouted seeds is one of the methods and concepts of KNF (Korean Natural Farming), which, again as I understand it, has been around a fair while.

That's my only real argument on this particular subject, other than he and some... 'unsavory' associates are one of the main reasons why I left the other site. Since it got really personal, it's hard for me to not take it personally, ya dig? Hopefully he no longer associates with these people.

In the meantime, I hope you read the Terms of Use when you signed up. If not, you might want to go back over them again. This is not a site where everyone gets to practice free speech. It's a cannabis site, and one of the things we ask our members to do is treat each other with respect so as to keep things from degenerating.

we won't have any issues. I posted at GC asking about phosphorus because I understood it was a soluble P source that hinder myco's but FBM is not soluble so could he clarify, as well as is SRP really radioactive? which he did not answer which I was kinda expecting. when someone asked about using SRP, I told them to mix 6-5-3 CaCO3/SRP/Gypsum which they later deleted, i noticed just the other day. I got a nasty taste of CC's opinion about it, opinion about me, along with some of the drama you mentioned. long story short, I'm here asking questions they won't answer. I'm newish to forums and came to IC only last May. I recently got banned about three months ago and was pretty excited to join in on the No Till fun. I have never enjoyed the ROLS thread due to all the backhanded advice and put downs. I have learned a lot on my own over at GC and I really like a lot of the people there but I'm not part of the clique so I came over here to ask questions when I have them. I was told you were interested in some of the things I am so here I am. :)

CC is taking one of his "breaks" right now. it's been over a month.

I noticed that about the SST and Caradang....

here is the link to the post Coots made stating he gets shorter flowering times. http://forum.grasscity.com/organic-growing/1299862-no-till-gardening.html/page-218#entry21087387

so now that's outta the way, LOL

the only info I could find: "Two-row barley kernels tend to be symmetrical and of an even size, so they tend to absorb water at about the same rate, and germinate and dry about the same; they’re also easier to grind in two-roller mills. Six-row barley has a symmetrical center, but the two lateral rows of kernels are a little shorter, thinner, and twisted slightly." https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/zymurgy/zymurgy-extra-2-row-vs-6-row-barley/
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

Living dead girl
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I'll tell you the number one reason why I'm not ready to dismiss your assertion regarding flowering times out of hand--the differences I've observed over the years just between plants potted vs plants in-ground. Potting the plant can spur onset of flowering to occur a full two weeks before I observe it in in-ground plants, and I've seen them finish that much more quickly, too (so they're done a full month before the in-ground plants). And that's just from the difference in pot size and the room the roots get to grow. So, why can't other factors play a similar role here? Or rather, why wouldn't they? If excess N extends flowering...

As for SRP, I've read many times that it is indeed radioactive, but I don't recall reading what kinds of levels we're talking about. For example, is it as radioactive as what we receive from the sun at sea level? If so, then I'm not too worried about it. Since I also happen to live in an area where radon is an issue I do want to be cognizant of it. I'll also do some searching.

Thank you for that barley information! Now I can look at the grain I have in my cupboard and see if I can figure out what type it is. :D
I have never enjoyed the ROLS thread due to all the backhanded advice and put downs.
It was my pointing out that flavor in another private forum that got me all kinds of shit on. I stand by my assertions, and frankly, I'm kind of glad I'm not the only one who sees it. I think the remark I made was along the lines of, "What's the inside joke?" Then, all shit broke loose.

Ok, back to radioactivity of SRP. Based on what I'm finding, it really depends on the source. That's probably why he couldn't answer you. Too bad he's not just honest about and and says, "I don't know."

Oh Jesus, let me clean up this link.


Selected Annotated Bibliography of the Geology of the Uranium ..., Issue 1059
 
Robbie714

Robbie714

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Hey everyone I've been reading lately about No-Till for the last few weeks and have a recipe but want to top dress and use for teas. Can some tell me if I want pale ale malt or pilsner or neither lol. If so is there any place besides BoS I could get it from like Amazon or a brewery near me? Thanks All
Happy Growing
 
S

Sammybasha

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1
Blaze-

The thing that sea so poetically pointed out (in stark contrast to alask) is that the benefits are seen in fields and not in containers. There is room for discussion, to see if it makes as much sense in containers than it may in fields. I have also seens lots of information that points to variability with no-til. In some areas improvements are great, but in a place with possibly less rainfall, no-til does no show improvement.

This is an interesting time, and I think a very exciting prospect, that the cannabis culture may have had a large part in a much more eco-friendly growing system.

So I am thinking the best way to reintroduce rock dusts is in small doses with watering, or mixed into a top dressing of castings/peat/whatever else.

Just don't "let it get crusty".
The fantastic results of no till are also found indoors in containers. There may be more biodiversity outdoors but there's plenty in my no till pots and it shows in my final product. Allowing for maximum soil structure works indoors and provides superior results due to the superior water retention, microbial activity and oxygen in the rhizosphere. Mulching protects these conditions and plants benefit in containers with a minimum size. Beds work better, and outdoors is the best.
 
S

Sammybasha

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1
Hey everyone I've been reading lately about No-Till for the last few weeks and have a recipe but want to top dress and use for teas. Can some tell me if I want pale ale malt or pilsner or neither lol. If so is there any place besides BoS I could get it from like Amazon or a brewery near me? Thanks All
Happy Growing
2 row barley is perfect. 6 row works, and almost any malted grain will due. Apparently 6 row barley is king.
 
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