Nutrient issues help, I'm at a loss...

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Shayne010944

Shayne010944

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Should i remove the dead leaves? Or just leave things alone.
Remove bottom ones , I just flipped this one to flower

BA09EB6E 592B 4D46 9F61 383CAC6905FA

BDB107EC AA3C 45F7 83CC 0298389E8EF2
 
strider26554

strider26554

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12-20 inches for MH nope but yeah thats up to you
I use mh and cmh and i never go closer than 18 inches, and ina tent or something inclosed even that distance could be too close, mh is a totally different beast and if you dont have uv filters on your fixtures (and who does) your getting some extreme cri with anything over 400 watt.
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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I use mh and cmh and i never go closer than 18 inches, and ina tent or something inclosed even that distance could be too close, mh is a totally different beast and if you dont have uv filters on your fixtures (and who does) your getting some extreme cri with anything over 400 watt.
Yeah thats how i feel too. He is at 12 inches and i think he should be atleast 20-24” given the current issues
 
Dirtbag

Dirtbag

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He has it hung half a meter from the canopy? for a 400 watt lamp I strongly feel that's not the problem. I've kept 400w MH lamps within 10-12" many many times with no issues.
I think it's the 1.7ec feed. Thats way too much for that amount of light. The plants look dry and crispy, I'd remove all the dead foliage and hit them with plain water with some calcium for several feeds in a row. I'd also slurry test the media to see what's really going on in there.
 
Dirtbag

Dirtbag

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Yeah thats how i feel too. He is at 12 inches and i think he should be atleast 20-24” given the current issues
I agree he should back it way up until it recovers. I don't think the light caused the problem though if he was at half a meter from the canopy. 400w MH are pretty forgiving lamps.
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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I agree he should back it way up until it recovers. I don't think the light caused the problem though if he was at half a meter from the canopy. 400w MH are pretty forgiving lamps.
He said 500mm which is about 19 inches. Probably not an issue with bigger plants that are healthy. But yeah thats my thoughts also.

Id guess watering to start with
 
A

Art_Vandelay

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Dude, those plants are burnt! 1.7 ec for a plant that young is most likely where your problems lie. I don’t see 1.7 until mid flower and sometimes not at all.
Depending what soil and watering schedule your using can also contribute to your problem.
Hey thanks for your reply. When i was feeding at a low amount as seen by my excel sheet the plant looked the same and was even slower growing so thats why i have used that much nutes.
Also there is so much conflicting info out there about E.C levels etc that its easy to get a bit overwelmed.
I have lifted the lights to 800mm and i will miss this watering schedule to see how they react. The soil im using is very dense peat based stuff and there has been alot of talk about issues with that specific brand so I have read about the PH levels being best at 5.8-6.2.
I will flush the next watering and start again with a new fert that i have used in the past with great results and it has a much better NPK (8.3.6) compaired to what im using now (4.2.6) and also use some CalMag.
I will also feed at 1.0 E.C and see where we go with those changes.
How long should i expect to see results with those changes?
 
A

Art_Vandelay

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He has it hung half a meter from the canopy? for a 400 watt lamp I strongly feel that's not the problem. I've kept 400w MH lamps within 10-12" many many times with no issues.
I think it's the 1.7ec feed. Thats way too much for that amount of light. The plants look dry and crispy, I'd remove all the dead foliage and hit them with plain water with some calcium for several feeds in a row. I'd also slurry test the media to see what's really going on in there.
Slurry test the media is a good idea. Where should i take the sample from?
 
Dirtbag

Dirtbag

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Slurry test the media is a good idea. Where should i take the sample from?
I like using a piece of half inch pvc sharpened at one end to take core samples for slurry testing. Around halway between the stem and side of the pot, punch it down into the soil at least halfway down the pot and pull the core out, and use a piece of bamboo to push the dirt out of the pvc pipe.
I like to fill the hole with fresh soil afterward too.
 
A

Art_Vandelay

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Thanks everyone for your advice and help, I have some steps to take now and will update on results. I should probably do a grow diary haha
 
AlfaDog

AlfaDog

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Hey guys I have joined up to get some help with issues in my new grow. The plants are Chemdog strain and ever since ive had them I have been unable to source the issue causing the yellowing and dying of leaves.

Water PH in 6.4-7.0
Water PH in runoff 6.0 - 6.3
E.C in 1.7
E.C in runoff is 1.5
Nutrients used Goliath Veg Accelerator ( I think its crap and maybe issue)

I have a Bluelab E.C and P.H meters.
My water here is very low E.C and does not even register on meter. So i have been thinking mineral deficency?

Any help and advice is very much appreciated, thanks for your time :)
There seems to be inconsistencies in your routine perhaps your ph meter is not stored in storage solution or the bulb isn't soak in the solution 2 hours before but highly recommend because it may affect the reading also cheak that everything is calibrated something could be way off. Even if the light is a distance away it's not literally only the heat that burns its the Intensity and nothing to do with temp. Might be going through a lock out due to high ec and try sticking to around a ph plus or minus one point exanple ( 6.2-6.4to avoid nutrient lock out and fluctuations sometimes less is more so you have nothing to loose at this point by backing off with the light a flush with R/untill 500ppm and see how it reacts next watering after that ph around 6.3 with half dose of wtv you been feeding
 
AlfaDog

AlfaDog

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"Light burn is often mistaken for a Nitrogen deficiency which makes wilting yellow leaves. Nitrogen-deficient leaves fall off on their own, while light-burned leaves are hard to pluck off. A nitrogen deficiency starts from the bottom of the plant and moves up, while light burn often is worse at the top of the plant."
Screenshot 20220703 175001 Chrome
 
A

Art_Vandelay

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"Light burn is often mistaken for a Nitrogen deficiency which makes wilting yellow leaves. Nitrogen-deficient leaves fall off on their own, while light-burned leaves are hard to pluck off. A nitrogen deficiency starts from the bottom of the plant and moves up, while light burn often is worse at the top of the plant." View attachment 1258731
The burn on the leaves of the plant are all over and not just at top. Even the leaves under other leaves are dry.
Also these dry crispy leaves are 2 months old and i have not until now removed any of them so I know it looks bad but It was not something that happened suddenly.
 
A

Art_Vandelay

24
13
There seems to be inconsistencies in your routine perhaps your ph meter is not stored in storage solution or the bulb isn't soak in the solution 2 hours before but highly recommend because it may affect the reading also cheak that everything is calibrated something could be way off. Even if the light is a distance away it's not literally only the heat that burns its the Intensity and nothing to do with temp. Might be going through a lock out due to high ec and try sticking to around a ph plus or minus one point exanple ( 6.2-6.4to avoid nutrient lock out and fluctuations sometimes less is more so you have nothing to loose at this point by backing off with the light a flush with R/untill 500ppm and see how it reacts next watering after that ph around 6.3 with half dose of wtv you been feeding
The Bluelab PH pen is brand new, calibrated and stored in Bluelab solution. I hear what your saying about there is more than just heat from lights that burns.
 
AlfaDog

AlfaDog

302
93
The burn on the leaves of the plant are all over and not just at top. Even the leaves under other leaves are dry.
Also these dry crispy leaves are 2 months old and i have not until now removed any of them so I know it looks bad but It was not something that happened suddenly.
Just remember whenever diagnosing you could cut 50% of you diagnose by just solving if it's only the lower older plant leave you dealing with a mobile nutrient due to the plant stealing resources from the bottom where there needed at the top new growth when it's a immobile nutrient it can affect the whole plant or the new growth
 
A

Art_Vandelay

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13
Just remember whenever diagnosing you could cut 50% of you diagnose by just solving if it's only the lower older plant leave you dealing with a mobile nutrient due to the plant stealing resources from the bottom where there needed at the top new growth when it's a immobile nutrient it can affect the whole plant or the new growth
Yes good point and i have been looking at different new growth and it appears that it is happening all over the plant which then leads me back to no enough minerals in my water here? So i was going to use Calmag.
FYI the E.C of my tap water is 0 or it doesnt show on Bluelab trugeon
 
AlfaDog

AlfaDog

302
93
Deff get ontp of the ec issue bring it down cuz if you got lock out plant won't take in any nutrients and it's a vicious Cycle and just get some more consistency in readings and stick to it good luck champ let us know how it goes these learning curves and lessons is how we become pros
 
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