H
herb
- 49
- 8
i use 32 gal rubbermaid trash cans. I use them to cure and also to store the product. Have had some buds in one from last summers harvest and the buds are still nice and firm without being overdried n crunchy
DrCALIGREENTHUM
- 748
- 43
Why did shady get banned?
for a disagreement?....
didnt even look like a big deal at all
for a disagreement?....
didnt even look like a big deal at all
J
JAHGYDI
- 323
- 18
sea maiden im with you on trimming. can you explain your process of triming drying and curing. do you trim buds wet? do you keep the buds on the stem while in container?
T
treehugger
- 154
- 18
I don't quite understand, can you go into more detail?
RobotChicken
- 189
- 43
Adding humidity or moisture to dried nugs will create mold.
If you need to Rehydrate you have already gone past the point of no return...There is no safe way back to what once was. As far as medicine is concerned.
RC
RobotChicken
- 189
- 43
Hey Dr.Caligreenthumb,
Shady got Banned for not being a active member on this site.
The disagreement was not a big deal and was mostly a misunderstanding.
But on this site if your not a real active member and do not do grow logs you can be banned anytime...Now if your old timer or have been active before and are taking a break that is one thing.
ShadyA never started any thread, so he did not have a grow log and most of his posts are two or three word "Nice grow" type posts...and he would sprinkle some BHO pics and negative little petty crap too...
I was trying to let him know what was up and then he decided to give me a negative rep for my post... That made me look into his posts to see what he contributes to this site and to see if he even needed to be here at all...
Just as I had suspected he had not contributed anything... That is not allowed on this site.
We are a site of growers... who are here to help one another and be respectful...I was gone for a while but now I am back and it seems it has gotten a little IC-RAG'ish around here
So now if I see any BS disrespect or any non members just putting in their lame 2cents...They will be banned!
I will ban just to make sure we are nothing like IC-RAG...:character0095:
People were saying I was being to nice and maybe I have been, that has all changed.... It will stay nice and clean around here for us to enjoy..:sun
Anyone needs some help just let me know. I got the big broom and I am ready to sweep.
RC
dorjewright
- 530
- 43
Check out this from "the coolist man" post in the cure your bud sticky:
Originally Posted by simon View Post
This method is particularly effective for folks who are starting out, those looking to maximize quality in a shorter period of time, and folks who's like to produce a connoisseur-quality product each and every time with no guesswork involved.
It's a very simple and effective process:
Cut the product, trim it per your preference, but don't dry it until the stems snap. Take it down while the stems still have some flex, but the product feel dry on the outside. This is a perfect opportunity to drop the dry-feeling flowers onto a screen and collect prime-quality kief that would otherwise get lost in the jar.
Jar the product, along with a Caliber III hygrometer. One can be had on Ebay for ~$20. Having tested a number of hygrometers - digital and analog - this model in particular produced consistent, accurate results. Then, watch the readings:
+70% RH - too wet, needs to sit outside the jar to dry for 12-24 hours, depending.
65-70% RH - the product is almost in the cure zone, if you will. It can be slowly brought to optimum RH by opening the lid for 2-4 hours.
60-65% RH - the stems snap, the product feels a bit sticky, and it is curing.
55-60% RH - at this point it can be stored for an extended period without worrying about mold. The product will continue to cure.
Below 55% RH - the RH is too low for the curing process to take place. The product starts to feel brittle. Once you've hit this point, nothing will make it better. Adding mosture won't restart the curing process; it will just make the product wet. If you measure a RH below 55% don't panic. Read below:
Obviously, the product need time to sweat in the jar. As such, accurate readings won't be seen for ~24 hours, assuming the flowers are in the optimal cure zone. If you're curing the product for long-term storage, give the flowers 4-5 days for an accurate reading. If the product is sill very wet, a +70% RH reading will show within hours. If you see the RH rising ~1% per hour, keep a close eye on the product, as it's likely too moist.
Some well-worded and executed How-to using this technique from later in the thread:
HTH,
Simon
Originally Posted by simon View Post
This method is particularly effective for folks who are starting out, those looking to maximize quality in a shorter period of time, and folks who's like to produce a connoisseur-quality product each and every time with no guesswork involved.
It's a very simple and effective process:
Cut the product, trim it per your preference, but don't dry it until the stems snap. Take it down while the stems still have some flex, but the product feel dry on the outside. This is a perfect opportunity to drop the dry-feeling flowers onto a screen and collect prime-quality kief that would otherwise get lost in the jar.
Jar the product, along with a Caliber III hygrometer. One can be had on Ebay for ~$20. Having tested a number of hygrometers - digital and analog - this model in particular produced consistent, accurate results. Then, watch the readings:
+70% RH - too wet, needs to sit outside the jar to dry for 12-24 hours, depending.
65-70% RH - the product is almost in the cure zone, if you will. It can be slowly brought to optimum RH by opening the lid for 2-4 hours.
60-65% RH - the stems snap, the product feels a bit sticky, and it is curing.
55-60% RH - at this point it can be stored for an extended period without worrying about mold. The product will continue to cure.
Below 55% RH - the RH is too low for the curing process to take place. The product starts to feel brittle. Once you've hit this point, nothing will make it better. Adding mosture won't restart the curing process; it will just make the product wet. If you measure a RH below 55% don't panic. Read below:
Obviously, the product need time to sweat in the jar. As such, accurate readings won't be seen for ~24 hours, assuming the flowers are in the optimal cure zone. If you're curing the product for long-term storage, give the flowers 4-5 days for an accurate reading. If the product is sill very wet, a +70% RH reading will show within hours. If you see the RH rising ~1% per hour, keep a close eye on the product, as it's likely too moist.
Some well-worded and executed How-to using this technique from later in the thread:
HTH,
Simon
DrCALIGREENTHUM
- 748
- 43
Right on RC thanks for clearing it up...
Not trying to get the hammer 4 some stupid shhtuff lol
Glad to see this threads not closed as well
Thanks for taking out the trash btw :giggle
Not trying to get the hammer 4 some stupid shhtuff lol
Glad to see this threads not closed as well
Thanks for taking out the trash btw :giggle
TrichromeFan
- 1,850
- 83
No big timer here. Still have lots of life left to learn. With that said, I currently use 1 gal glass cracker jars. They are cheap online.
ROBOT CHICKEN SPEAKS THE GOSPEL! DO NOT MAKE YOUR DRYING AREA HIGHER HUMIDITY! DO NOT LEAVE YOUR BUDS MOIST!
Obviously if you have a chronic low humidity problem, I can see how you could incorporate one, but that's about it.
I LET FIVE POUNDS GO TO SHIT because of leaving too much humidity in the buds going into the curing stage. It didn't have to go that way. I thought I was doing right. I modified my "old" by feel method on drying and curing for a fancy method involving different humidities for different stages in the curing. Funny thing is, it's already been posted in this thread. Hmmmm.
Well, luckily I had a talk with a friend who spotted out my fatal flaw, and gave me that nudge in the right direction. He knew it was a moisture issue that was killing my tastes and smells, and inviting in mold and funk. I was just in the drying stage on the next batch. Just in the nick of time if I do say so myself. So, I made sure that my buds were nice and dry, then I jarred them up. Oh man. THey haven't been curing for more than 2 weeks and they are WAY better than last run. So much more stinky. Nice and tasty. So with that said, two things:
Thanks homie for the help in bettering my meds!
and for the rest of you. Dry your buds, don't ruin them. Robot Chicken is right, and just trying to make sure y'all get the best possible meds out there.
You said it. Let's see.... If I were to say I trashed 5 lbs of good meds. What do you farmers say? That is 10-20k easy. Bummer, someone's electric bills coulda been paid with that one.
Don't let it be you.
Now I do like that Hygrometer a lot. Highly recommended. Just not at the RH levels talked about in simon's theories.
-TF
J
jensen
- 67
- 6
@RobotChicken
Could you please send me that drying recipe in PM ? I tried to send you a private message and i was not able to do so as my user has to few posts yet :)
PS: Grow diary coming soon :)
Could you please send me that drying recipe in PM ? I tried to send you a private message and i was not able to do so as my user has to few posts yet :)
PS: Grow diary coming soon :)
dorjewright
- 530
- 43
Not 65% for drying! That will absolutely invite mold, IMO/IME, it needs to be <50% for drying. I didn't mean to give the impression that this is what I do for drying, I thought the question was specifically about curing. (Seamaiden)
Ooops; Seamaiden I have been using 65% for curing and drying based on your "sweetspot". I'm on the coast and the RH is all over the place from 35% to 85%. Averaging 60 to 65%. So far no problem with mold. I use a heater to keep the temps around 70 with seems to help bring the RH down when needed. But I did just get a dehumidifier and am using it at night.
Trying turkey bags ( got real tired burping jars) this year with an hygrometer until the buds are evenly dryed to 60 to 65% then into the jars for curing. Did that the last few grows and seemed to work. I'd be curious what other's experience is.
Ooops; Seamaiden I have been using 65% for curing and drying based on your "sweetspot". I'm on the coast and the RH is all over the place from 35% to 85%. Averaging 60 to 65%. So far no problem with mold. I use a heater to keep the temps around 70 with seems to help bring the RH down when needed. But I did just get a dehumidifier and am using it at night.
Trying turkey bags ( got real tired burping jars) this year with an hygrometer until the buds are evenly dryed to 60 to 65% then into the jars for curing. Did that the last few grows and seemed to work. I'd be curious what other's experience is.
leadsled
GrowRU
- 2,145
- 263
Vittles Vaults rule! Can get em at petco, etc. They are food safe pet food containers.
No more cracking 50 jars :). imho curing is super important, amazing how may do not got the process down. Easy to ruin all the hard work.
-lead
No more cracking 50 jars :). imho curing is super important, amazing how may do not got the process down. Easy to ruin all the hard work.
-lead
J
JAHGYDI
- 323
- 18
thanx leadslead thats exactly it. i was 5 gal buckets with the o ring lid.
Seamaiden
Living dead girl
- 23,596
- 638
To emphasize the importance of a good cure, I took some freshly dried nugs to try out last night from my OD harvest.
I had to empty the bowl, it tasted like shit. Blech!
I had to empty the bowl, it tasted like shit. Blech!
phenotyper
- 851
- 63
Hey TF, I use that method with great success. However, if your initial drying environment dries the outside faster than the inside, then the initial RH readings will be off, indicating lower RH. This has happened to me before, like so: After a day or so in the jar, the swing can be massive, from an initial reading of 60-64%, all the way back up to 70-80+. I use a combination of that method and a bit of feel and my medicine comes out nicely. Usually I start the RH method after the fattest colas stem is nearly splintering. A good litmus test for the smaller branches.
Hell yes! This is great. I am always afraid to use plastics, but food grade, airtight sounds excellent to me. Picking up one of these ASAP.
caregiverken
Fear Not!
Supporter
- 11,535
- 438
I didn't read the thread just the last few posts
Those pet food thingys look like the hot ticket..
But im poor...so Im useing Lowes buckets
Those pet food thingys look like the hot ticket..
But im poor...so Im useing Lowes buckets
qupee
- 183
- 28
Vittles Vaults rule! Can get em at petco, etc. They are food safe pet food containers.
No more cracking 50 jars :). imho curing is super important, amazing how may do not got the process down. Easy to ruin all the hard work.
-lead
Interesting I think I'll try one of these.
leadsled
GrowRU
- 2,145
- 263
JAHGYDI said:
No problem.
FYI: to gauge the size you need: 30lb vault will fit around 1500grams, depending on density of the strain.
singingcrow
- 161
- 28
I like first drying and curing on these nylon children's toy stacker (hooks to the ceiling). They are $5 at IKEA in the kids section. I kid you not.
Security would always scare me with almost 2-3lbs of illegal crop just sitting in that shed over there...
Security would always scare me with almost 2-3lbs of illegal crop just sitting in that shed over there...
chazbolin
- 162
- 43
Never set foot into a Petco. Until now. Thanks for the suggestion
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