Aqua vega does drop the ph but it stabalizes and doesnt move for weeks for me. Try this which is what I did and worked great. take a gallon of un ph'd water and add your part a and b at whatever application rate 6 ml a gallon of each for me for example. Measure your ph again after this and see how much it drops.... If it drops from say 8.0 to7.0, then you know to ph your water to 6.8 instead of 5.8 before adding your chemicals. Once I figured theright mix it has been super stable.
 

JACKMAYOFFER

Playing with Fire Son...
Supporter
Start out with RO water add 150 ppm of cal mag, Then add Canna Aqua vega A+B until you reach 600 to 800 ppm let the ph swing for 24 hrs (DO NOT ADD ANYTHING) AFTER 24 HRS you should then adjust the ph if needed I do not adjust if its in a range of 5.1 to 6.2 if it is higher or lower then add PH down or Silica as PH up. Only use the neessary nutes the rest you can add after you find the problem... I would also suggest a 24 hr flush...JACK
 
Hella intimidating to run & yet therapeutic

I'm so very thankful for this forum, but this thing of ours, this UCCULTURE is near frightening; much like how i feel when someone talks about the OUIJI BOARD...effin' frightening...for me...lolololloolloollll...l..o..well, i walk in the room, and i see an entire system laid out in front of me but not runnin'. I believe that i have taken every precaution but cannot help but feel that this UPGRADE is doomed for failure. potential for violent pH swing, root rot/ water temp/ Chiller debate, - i'm scared to pull the trigger,"to fill it up & turn it on. I was all ready to go in the room and load it & pull the trigger when i came across this thread.


This is what we're doin'...thinkin' of doin'...know what, i think i need a UC COACH...(light laughter) yeah, that should work. Anyways :
(6) X (13g) UCC BUCKET SITE under (2) (1000w) COOL SUN REFLECTORS all AIR~COOLED w/1/4 HORSE CHILLER.
( usin' HOUSE & GARDEN, but does someone have a recommendation of what i should be usin' w/ the H&G, or a recipe? Jus' want to be successful with this.

Addt'l info : All SOL & BOG gear.

I'm sure i'll walk in there & do it, but i'm really concerned about being able to dial it in.

Well, i believe i've taken enough of your time. Thanx for your exceptional time & patience...

Happy Holidays ~ Merry Christmas & Have a Happy New Year
 
Grab the steering wheel and put the pedal to the metal

I'm so very thankful for this forum, but this thing of ours, this UCCULTURE is near frightening; much like how i feel when someone talks about the OUIJI BOARD...effin' frightening...for me...lolololloolloollll...l..o..well, i walk in the room, and i see an entire system laid out in front of me but not runnin'. I believe that i have taken every precaution but cannot help but feel that this UPGRADE is doomed for failure. pH violent swing issues, root rot/ chiller debate, - i'm scared to pull the trigger,"to fill it up & turn it on. I was all ready to go in the room and load it & pull the trigger when i came across this thread.

This is what we're doin'...thinkin' of doin'...know what, i think i need a UC COACH...(light laughter) yeah, that should work. Anyways :
(6) X (13g) UCC BUCKET SITE under (2) (1000w) COOL SUN REFLECTORS all AIR~COOLED w/1/4 HORSE CHILLER.

Addt'l info : All SOL & BOG gear.

I'm sure i'll walk in there & do it, but i'm really concerned about being able to dial it in.

Well, i believe i've taken enough of your time. Thanx for your exceptional time & patience...

Happy Holidays ~ Merry Christmas & Have a Happy New Year
The only way to dial it in is to do it. Don't go into any project with a negative vibe if you hope to succeed, do your due diligence in researching the UC but you'll need to just do it.

You'll do great, just keep it simple and don't reinvent the wheel.....what nutes are you using?
 
Recipe for success ~

Sorry UC, I was editing my post...lololololooolll..you see, i'm a perfectionist to a fault.
Well, i'm usin' HOUSE & GARDEN, however i'm sure there's other additives that should go in there, as well, and in what order- when?
Oh, i also have HYDROLOGIC'S Stealth (3) stage RO SYSTEM, if this helps.

Thank you for parachutin' in...won't forget it.
 
Perfections a slippery slope

You'll do great......and if troubles arise give the cats at CC a call as it's their job to help you succeed.

Between CC and the multitude of capable farmers here at The Farm there's no doubt you'll be rocking a beautiful garden in no time ;)

Enjoy your holiday.
 
I did a lot of searching on Google for DWC PH drops and found that every post going back 4 years says it seems to be from low nutes ppm and/or old nutes in system.

Amazingly last night our system was at 450ppm at week 5 of flower and the PH literally dropped from 6.0 down to 5.8 in front of us. Then 5.7 during the dark cycle.

I have flushed the system and going to add 1100ppm nutes in 6 hours. If PH is stable I will be adding Bud XL and Top Booster today! :D
 
Thank you all for your suggestions. For now I used tap water(430 ppm... SoCal has real nice water) to stabilize my system and it is working much better and is way more stable then ph up.

I am going to do a couple experiments and cut out cannazyme all together. What does zone do?

Unfortunately this seems to be an issue with my undercurrent. I have a rez wher I mix everything and the ph is staying stable. The same nutes were put into my system and they dropped from 6.3 to 5.7 in two days. This is a big improvement over my previous issues where the ph would drop 1.0 over night.

What do people think about adjusting the water before i add my nutes?

A little recap. With just RO and a and b at 600 ppm my ph is between 4.3 and 3.7
 
There's nothing in your UC's that would cause pH spiking downward......what's your thoughts as to what it might be with your UC causing the issue?

Had you used Advanced pH down at anytime in the past in these systems?
 
You say your ph swings what is your ppm doing? This is the formula I always go by. If you let your UC system run 24 hrs. and in that time it uses say 5 gals of solution what happens?
If ppm down/ph up Nutes are weak
If ppm up/ ph down Nutes to strong But if ppm and ph are stable then this is the correct mix for this plant, the plant is using both water and nute as it needs it, and in equal amounts.
If you are still having ph problems then I would look for bacteria in your root mass, do you have good air flow to root mass? IMO these are the two bigest reasons for ph swings like yours. Might try Hyrgozyme/Zone?
UCMENOW whats the problem with Hyrgozyme in UC I haven't had any problems with it,I always turn my air off for about 15-30 min when adding so it dosen't foam, is there something else please explain thanks!

Good luck!
BHW
 
Causes sliming in the UC.....not sure as to why but it does. Zymes are designed to break down or bioremediate dead and dying root tissue......

when only living roots are present the zymes tend to become counter productive by bio filming air stones, modules, roots, etc. creating anerobic conditions which can contribute to future root issues. At very least these films inhibit the uptake of water and minerals by the roots themselves.
 
Thanks for the info I did see a slimmy like stuff right at the waterline on my root mass from the foam I think thats why I stopped the air when adding to system and only @5ml/gal, does the DM zone cause the same problems? Or is just best to keep your shit clean to start with, I've been using it as a proventive measure for root rot and to stop and lockup.
Thanks
BHW
 

motherlode

@Rolln_J
Supporter
Causes sliming in the UC.....not sure as to why but it does. Zymes are designed to break down or bioremediate dead and dying root tissue......

when only living roots are present the zymes tend to become counter productive by bio filming air stones, modules, roots, etc. creating anerobic conditions which can contribute to future root issues. At very least these films inhibit the uptake of water and minerals by the roots themselves.
heya UCMENOW - good info as always

Thanks for the info I did see a slimmy like stuff right at the waterline on my root mass from the foam I think thats why I stopped the air when adding to system and only @5ml/gal, does the DM zone cause the same problems? Or is just best to keep your shit clean to start with, I've been using it as a proventive measure for root rot and to stop and lockup.
Thanks
BHW
zone does not foam at all and it keeps your shit sparkly clean like this:

 
Top Bottom