Grapefruitroop
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HEy wassup!
After i transplanted a bunch of clones in my 3rd time recycled soil, yesterday i spotted what looks like a P deficiency due to lockout.
Given the fact that i always been pretty diligent with ppm levels in previous crops, im thinking that i repotted with the medium beein in some part really bone dry, cause even if im watering enough (based on my dosages and routine) the pot is still very light.
Generally im used to rehydrate the soil with good mineral water and mix it very well (shovel tarp and elbow grease) before repot but this time i taught (wrong) that i could skip that part, thinkin it was moist enough .... a day of heat wave gave the final stroke!
I found a very interesting page i wana share with y all....about what im sure is happening to me...
Too dry medium + abbundant K leftovers from last crop = PH drifting up = P lockout
Kwamina Ewur Banson
Biotechnology and Nuclear Agriculture Research Institute
Majority of the soil test reports indicates high levels of phosphorus in the soil, but the percentage recovery by plants is only meager. The phosphate availability is mainly microbe dependent. Micro organisms like Bacillus megatherium and Bacillus polymyxa plays a major role in converting these fixed insoluble form to soluble forms, which will be easily available to the plants. The soil microbes and the carbonic exudates of plant roots, helps to dissolve the fixed phosphorus and make them available to the plants. The faster the uptake of phosphate, the more quickly the root system develops and the plant will get greater the amount of energy to maintain growth and development. However when pH is between 7.5- 8.5. Many local soils have pH values within this range. This raised pH can actually be due to excessive amounts of potassium in the soil which has an influence on pH, twice that of calcium (Sodium 4 times and magnesium 1.4 times that of calcium). In this situation, it is better to give foliar applications of potassium to maximise its uptake, particularly in the fruit-filling stages. A soil pH range of 6.2 to 6.8 is generally considered as ideal. Soil pH becomes self adjusting when the important cations - calcium, magnesium, potassium and sodium are in proper equilibrium. Thus it would be better to say that pH is the result, not the cause, of nutrient interactions and levels in the soil.
from
www.researchgate.net
So....i will go ahead and properly water to restabilish proper moisture and hence ph......ill water with ROwater plus calmag and Epsom as im used to do....hopefully it will reduce the K levels....bring back PH on track and free the P!!!
wish me luck!
After i transplanted a bunch of clones in my 3rd time recycled soil, yesterday i spotted what looks like a P deficiency due to lockout.
Given the fact that i always been pretty diligent with ppm levels in previous crops, im thinking that i repotted with the medium beein in some part really bone dry, cause even if im watering enough (based on my dosages and routine) the pot is still very light.
Generally im used to rehydrate the soil with good mineral water and mix it very well (shovel tarp and elbow grease) before repot but this time i taught (wrong) that i could skip that part, thinkin it was moist enough .... a day of heat wave gave the final stroke!
I found a very interesting page i wana share with y all....about what im sure is happening to me...
Too dry medium + abbundant K leftovers from last crop = PH drifting up = P lockout
Kwamina Ewur Banson
Biotechnology and Nuclear Agriculture Research Institute
Majority of the soil test reports indicates high levels of phosphorus in the soil, but the percentage recovery by plants is only meager. The phosphate availability is mainly microbe dependent. Micro organisms like Bacillus megatherium and Bacillus polymyxa plays a major role in converting these fixed insoluble form to soluble forms, which will be easily available to the plants. The soil microbes and the carbonic exudates of plant roots, helps to dissolve the fixed phosphorus and make them available to the plants. The faster the uptake of phosphate, the more quickly the root system develops and the plant will get greater the amount of energy to maintain growth and development. However when pH is between 7.5- 8.5. Many local soils have pH values within this range. This raised pH can actually be due to excessive amounts of potassium in the soil which has an influence on pH, twice that of calcium (Sodium 4 times and magnesium 1.4 times that of calcium). In this situation, it is better to give foliar applications of potassium to maximise its uptake, particularly in the fruit-filling stages. A soil pH range of 6.2 to 6.8 is generally considered as ideal. Soil pH becomes self adjusting when the important cations - calcium, magnesium, potassium and sodium are in proper equilibrium. Thus it would be better to say that pH is the result, not the cause, of nutrient interactions and levels in the soil.
from
Why foliar fertilization of P is not generally recommended in crops?
one cannot ignore the importance of foliar fertilization especially in marginal lands/problem soils. When we talk about this, literature is full of foliar fertilization of N, K and micronutrients....
www.researchgate.net
So....i will go ahead and properly water to restabilish proper moisture and hence ph......ill water with ROwater plus calmag and Epsom as im used to do....hopefully it will reduce the K levels....bring back PH on track and free the P!!!
wish me luck!
