Please Help. Is this nutrient burn?

[dangles]

Hey all... 1st time indoor grower here. Noticed these sugar leaves starting turning brown and hard/crispy, 2 days after using a bloom fertilizer. I suspect nutrient burn, but would love opinions from more experienced growers!

 

[Bdubs]

Did you increase the PPM on a feed, deviated from the normal PPM target? You are in flower and the last thing you want to do is increase PPM. If anything, always aim to lower PPM in flower. But never increase it in your feed. You can lower other nutrients and increase another but you need to stay pegged to a PPM regardless. You shouldn’t chase nutrient deficiencies in flower, much. You should focus Ph is proper over chasing deficiencies and adjusting nutrients.
Keep nutrients on schedule and monitor Ph And PPM every runoff. If PPM rises, lower nutrient strength (PPM). If Ph falls or rises, feed offset Ph. Check runout every watering/feed.
Flower is boring but we cannot forget that there is other focuses in this stage. Ph being proper is amongst the most important when in flower stages.
The plant has enough stored nutrients, you really don’t need to worry about Slow fading/discoloring leafs. Therefore not chasing nutrients. Leafs are not the focus in flower.

You know the PPM you kicked off into flower, it should be 100-250PPM less when you reach end of Mid (week5) and slightly more less in Late flower (week6). The variance or total decrease is going to be determined how aggressive you were in vegetation or the PPM you kicked off flower with.

 

[Bdubs]

Besides, if you flush, by week6 you should be tapering off your nutrients to the end and dropping temps and humidity. They should discolor.

I see nutrient burn with twisting, curling and burnt tips. The burnt and curling tips look fresh as I do not see prolonged tip burning on the rest of your leafs.

Short answer. Lower PPM.

 

[dangles]

Did you increase the PPM on a feed, deviated from the normal PPM target? You are in flower and the last thing you want to do is increase PPM. If anything, always aim to lower PPM in flower. But never increase it in your feed. You can lower other nutrients and increase another but you need to stay pegged to a PPM regardless. You shouldn’t chase nutrient deficiencies in flower, much. You should focus Ph is proper over chasing deficiencies and adjusting nutrients.
Keep nutrients on schedule and monitor Ph And PPM every runoff. If PPM rises, lower nutrient strength (PPM). If Ph falls or rises, feed offset Ph. Check runout every watering/feed.
Flower is boring but we cannot forget that there is other focuses in this stage. Ph being proper is amongst the most important when in flower stages.
The plant has enough stored nutrients, you really don’t need to worry about Slow fading/discoloring leafs. Therefore not chasing nutrients. Leafs are not the focus in flower.

You know the PPM you kicked off into flower, it should be 100-250PPM less when you reach end of Mid (week5) and slightly more less in Late flower (week6). The variance or total decrease is going to be determined how aggressive you were in vegetation or the PPM you kicked off flower with.

I did increase the amount with the latest feed, unwittingly thinking that as the plant got larger it would require more nutrients.

 

[Bdubs]

Be careful not to overwater too by the way. But take a look at the Newer sugar leafs. Are they droopy? How far down the leaf is it dropping. If you are overwatering or the soil is too wet, the amount of droop on the new sugar leads will tel you that and by how much is it too wet.
Yours look fine to me. But I only say this because the reverse tacoing can be from overwatering.

 

[dangles]

Besides, if you flush, by week6 you should be tapering off your nutrients to the end and dropping temps and humidity. They should discolor.

I see nutrient burn with twisting, curling and burnt tips. The burnt and curling tips look fresh as I do not see prolonged tip burning on the rest of your leafs.

Short answer. Lower PPM.

so do i need to address any of the "burnt" sugar leaves? This is most prominent on the colas.

 

[Bdubs]

I did increase the amount with the latest feed, unwittingly thinking that as the plant got larger it would require more nutrients.

And that is a legit way of thinking.

In vegetation is when you vamp up nutrients to your desired target. Example:
8 week veg?
2 weeks-400ppm
4weeks-600ppm
6th week-950ppm
Push 2 weeks of 950ppm
Flip flower and maintain 950ppm for 2 weeks (swap nitrogen amount and bloom amount but maintain PPM-lower nitrogen, increase bloom)
Drop PPM by 50-100 for the next 3 weeks
Drop PPM by 50-100 for 2 weeks
Begin your Ripening/flushing process (week 8ish, depending on how she is looking)
If she needs more time and you want to keep feeding, lower PPM 50-100 for another week, then flush.

 

[Bdubs]

if it was just the tip, I’d say no problem.

Twisting and burning and curling is overdone and a shock.

Don’t fret, keep this knowledge of it and next feed go light or possibly water only. That’s up to you.

 

[dangles]

if it was just the tip, I’d say no problem.

Twisting and burning and curling is overdone and a shock.

Don’t fret, keep this knowledge of it and next feed go light or possibly water only. That’s up to you.

Thanks a ton for your time and help!

 

[GNick55]

it’s your light being too close and not feeding correctly..
and that didn’t happen in 2 days, probably started a couple weeks ago and went unnoticed or was ignored..
what’s the light and the distance?
what have you been feeding? how much?

 

[GNick55]

flushing is non sense and only affects the plant negatively..

 

[ArtfulCodger]

Tracking the ppms of your runoff can help you get a sense of when to feed and whether you're feeding too much or too little. In soil, I like to water to about 10% runoff. I feed with the next watering if I see the runoff ppms drop below 1,000. I feed 600-700 ppms at a time. I don't increase the concentration on an individual feed...if the plants are eating more quickly, I'll feed more often (when the runoff drops below 1,000 ppm). Lots of ways to do it...that's just a way that has worked for me.

 

[awesomeblossom]

flushing is non sense and only affects the plant negatively..

U know what, I think I'm gonna agree with u. Because I am flushing right now. And I have to say... I would sure like to add some nitro , I've never flushed prior to this. And never had the problem where stocks would not hold my buds up.
I'm not complaining... I like seeing buds big enough to to bend the stocks over. But I know if I was still feeding they would be standing straight up..

 

[Bdubs]

Gnick I love you! You always making sure people got it right.

I only assumed you had everything else on point with my recommendation, check on what Gnick is saying about the light.

 

[dangles]

it’s your light being too close and not feeding correctly..
and that didn’t happen in 2 days, probably started a couple weeks ago and went unnoticed or was ignored..
what’s the light and the distance?
what have you been feeding? how much?

I measure the distance from the top of the plant to the light and it is always 12 inches or more. Yes, it did happen in 2 days, and since this post was originally posted it has gotten even worse (i originally suspected light burn and raised the light all the way to the top of the tent). I was feeding her "Alaska Morbloom" which is a 0-10-10, once every 2 weeks. I'm 99% sure I over fertilized and it burnt the dickens out of the plant. At this point, fan leaves are curling from the tip to the center and becoming crispy as potato chips. I've been pulling everything off that is (i'm assuming) dying, not sure if it can be saved or not.

 

[dangles]

this is one of the leaves I pulled off the plant on Wednesday. This is what it looked like while still on the plant.

 

[Bdubs]

I like to keep 24” all the time myself. 12 inches is close. But it all depends on your lights ppfd ratings + distance. So it is not a set in stone distance. It is a combo of heat and light stress. I wouldn’t worry about maxing out my intensity and all that. You need to be mindful of the light limit rule. If you lack one of the factors, you’re restricted to the weakest factor. Or the amount of photons that can be packeted. When your plant is unable to take the intensity due to one factor being inefficient, she will burn because she can’t packet the excess photons and burns.
Light, water, CO2, chlorophyll and temperature. Any one out of balance or not optimal/proper will limit your plants light. So if you are burning bad, substantially reduce intensity and correct these factors or she will remain low light limit.

 

[Bdubs]

Along with that. Chlorophyll is the green pigment in the leafs. Hence why most growers with low nitrogen or light colored leafs, tend to light burn more often. And it is this reason I don’t remove nitrogen from my nutrients in flower until the last couple weeks, I only reduce nitrogen to half when I flip until nearly the end. Forget about harshness from chlorophyll, it will hinder your light limit and reduce your growth. Some knock my dark green leafs, but I’ve been maxed out intensity and 8” from light and she is just fine sucking it all up.

With all that being said, try to mimic the bell lighting effect to reduce the light stress into the end of flower. She has lost a lot of color and also her ability to process photons.

 

[Bdubs]

I can speculate also and say that grow tents posses increased light, especially when a high intensity light is used. The reflective walls are great but they do provide a lot of excess light. So if you have an issue with those factors, a tent can exacerbate the issue. This is, in my mind, the reason why mirrors and foil walls can actually hurt your plants.

 

[Bdubs]

Just the tip, you’re good. If it goes beyond Just the tip, it’s too much and nutrient burn is happening. The lower leaf may dry and burn to a crisp indicating the plants nutrient lockout and she is probably drinking water and ignoring nutrients. Using stored nutrients and drinking water from roots. That is why the leaf is torched.