Please Help To Recover Plants, 1st Time In Coco

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Vanyoota

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I used to grow 8 600w lamps 9 plants per light crops in soil. Now I switched to coco/dwc hybrid
I use double buckets with coco and air pump inside. I have constant solution level 1 sm above the coco pot's bottom. I have control bucket with leverer connected to main water tank I put my nutes in. All bottom fed through 1\2 inch lines. Ph around 5.5-6.0 - starting PH in tank - 5.2, always raises a little while plants are eating, dunno if it is normal or not.

I have 5 plants lsd from Barney and kali mist from serious seeds. Kali got stunted for a week now. Trying to get her recover. (I know I shouldn't feed indices and sativa from the same water tank).
From start it was awesome. I was using Canna cogr nutes but after week 5 veg plants started to show deficiencies looked like chlorosis. At that time I stopped using rhizotonic as Canna advised on their feeding chart. U had my soup around 600ppm and undecided to make it 900 and then 1100 thinking plants need more food. But I was wrong. Plants ended up with nute lockout. Flushed with 200ppm water(I know I shouldn' do it with that low ppm) and I had 1300ppm runoff. I stopped around 450-500, gave girls some clean water with 300ppm nute mix with nitrozyme and flora clean solution. Helped a little but Kali showed no symptoms of recovery.
So I went to some research and found out that Canna giving you too high dosages and that will end up with nutes lockout in coco.
Switched to Plagron cocos a+b.

Now I have them flushed and ppm around 600 and ph areound 5.8-6.2.

I also made a huge mistake by not giving them plain water between feedings. I was told to feed 100l and give them 15l of water then redo.

I grow solo plants at 600w. I had 0.9 1.0 g/watt.

I am sure I can hit same with those babies. Just need them to recover to flip to 12/12. They would be under scrog. LST trained well.

I have 26 degrees temp
40-45 humidity with 4 us humidifiers. But air exhaust takes all that humid away. Impossible to do 55-60%.

I use 8 600w lamps without tubes with azerwing reflectors.

Photos attached. Am I recovering them right way ? Please help. I am so stressed because of those stunted plants.

Water temp is 21-22

Attached are 2 sickest plants compared to best pheno of lsd.

Main plants started to show deficiencies and I gave them ion calmag solution today and put plagron 600ppm.

Questions:
1. Starting PH in the tank is around 5.1, control bucket has around 5.5-5.8, root zone PH is about 6.0-6.2 - is this normal? I use RO water with Plagron nutes(plus ion calmag addon) around 600ppm
2. Am I doing everything right? I flushed all the pots, runoff was 1100-1300PPM, made it around 450-550 and stopped, gave it Florakleen, some nitrozyme and vitamins, sprayed with canna cure. Now I dumped that solution and opened the tank feeding them 5.0PH 600ppm Plagron cocos a+b with ion cal-mag pro 2ml\l
3. Being on canna cogr I found out that recommended dose is WAY to high, is that true that I could give them 450-500ppm and never had this nute lockout?
4. First it looked like suffocating roots, but I use 2 air pumps that is powerful enough to give enough oxygen, I have a lot of bubbles, I think it rated to 140 and 70 l\min. Was it overdose?
5. What PPM should I keep and how do I raise it to appropriate level?
6. Do I have to give them clean RO water with calmag every other feed - 60l of nutes then 15l of water plus calmag?
7. How to avoid nute lockup in future? I am about to flip to 12\12.

I have stunted plants compared to best pheno of LSD attached. Taken today.
 
DGP

DGP

Never seen a hybrid system like this. Are you able to see the roots and smell the water? At 21-22C your water temps are in the danger zone for DWC. I keep mine at 20 max and the water always smells fresh and roots are white. In the past when my water got about 20 I would see wilting (drooping leaves) then leaves turning yellow and dying. It was anaerobic bacteria creating root rot (pythium or a pythium like issue).

Dee
 
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Vanyoota

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Ukrainian style DWC:) - well, I did smelled the roots and no funky smell was detected. Roots are colored a little brown because of nitrozyme I use - it is brown as fuck;) - I will post pictures of my roots tomorrow.
 
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Vanyoota

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Never seen a hybrid system like this. Are you able to see the roots and smell the water? At 21-22C your water temps are in the danger zone for DWC. I keep mine at 20 max and the water always smells fresh and roots are white. In the past when my water got about 20 I would see wilting (drooping leaves) then leaves turning yellow and dying. It was anaerobic bacteria creating root rot (pythium or a pythium like issue).

Dee
but only kali mist reacted with P overdose and threw purple stems, maybe you are right, but I never had this problem in early veg. Roots were so perfect, but I gave them Rhizotonic to promote it's growth. I was thinking in adding something similar to great white. Water chiller is too expensive and I can't afford it now. The main tank has 16 degrees, control bucket 20.
 
DGP

DGP

but only kali mist reacted with P overdose and threw purple stems, maybe you are right, but I never had this problem in early veg. Roots were so perfect, but I gave them Rhizotonic to promote it's growth. I was thinking in adding something similar to great white. Water chiller is too expensive and I can't afford it now. The main tank has 16 degrees, control bucket 20.

Yeah, it was painful to pay for a chiller for my grow recently, I went almost two years without one and just kept the room cooler but that was not ideal for growth (air temp too low) and had to have A/C and the cost of the extra cooling. Now that I am running one I can't imagine going without.

Dee
 
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Vanyoota

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I feel you. I wouldn't go back neither;)

Do you think roots suffocating?
 
DGP

DGP

I feel you. I wouldn't go back neither;)

Do you think roots suffocating?
Don't know. Have you used all the products you listed before and successfully in previous grows? Are any of them living beneficial biology? I only have experience working with mostly sterile water ( some stuff always grows on it's own).

Dee
 
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Vanyoota

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No. 1sr time in this system. I used to grow with mineral salts that I've mixed on my own. But that is so old school so I decided to make a switch.

Just had an advise from fellow grower to switch nutes to powder feeding - complex and had all the nutes in including micro. He had great results with it and it is made in Germany by GHS - I think they know how to grow;)

Any advise in PPM/EC at week 6 of veg?
 
DGP

DGP

No. 1sr time in this system. I used to grow with mineral salts that I've mixed on my own. But that is so old school so I decided to make a switch.

Just had an advise from fellow grower to switch nutes to powder feeding - complex and had all the nutes in including micro. He had great results with it and it is made in Germany by GHS - I think they know how to grow;)

Any advise in PPM/EC at week 6 of veg?

All I can tell you is at 6 weeks ( I just came out of a 6 week veg BTW) I was at 450 ppm with General Hydro 3 part Flora. I went to 500 or so for a time and saw the tips turn down and darken. Nothing serious but the plants were telling me "enough". So much is dependent on the strain but in my case I have seen that nutrient suppliers consistently call for about 2X what is needed. I never give the dose they recommend due to past outcomes. They just want to sell more. I use 1/4 in newish seedlings (after about the 3rd set of leaves) and then 1/2 through teenagers and mature plants.

I have been thinking of going to a powder material. I found one supplier out there that a lot of canna growers use and dang it now I can't remember the name....will look it up but it was about a quarter the price of typical canna nutes.

Dee
 
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Vanyoota

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Try Powder Feeding from GHS- just switched to it. Good reviews and friends had good harvests using it.
 
V

Vanyoota

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Well. Have an update here. Sativa recovered. Only 1 pheno lsd still stunted but had new growth already. Problem was with nutes lockup. Don' give them what manufacturer says about dosage. 500ppm is plenty for early and middle veg.
 

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