Post UC Questions and Concerns Here

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UCHQ

UCHQ

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Consider this thread ground zero for expressing yourself and asking for guidance in regards to the UC.

Let this be the place you can voice your questions & concerns. We'll be checking this thread periodically so please be patient if your question isn't immediately addressed, thanks.
 
motherlode

motherlode

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welcome UCHQ - good to have you here!
 
QuarterbackMo

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Welcome to the farm uchq if uchq is aka Daniel I would like to thank you again for the buckets you saved my life... Anyway welcome to the farm bro glad to have you here.
 
desertsquirrel

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Glad you made it to your own show man. Cant wait to check out the new UC gear coming up.
 
Shane20

Shane20

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Glad to have you here! Just started my double barrel system and couldnt be happier! 2 weeks so far with the new UC and im hooked! ;)
 
I

Innov8tr

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Although Dan and I have separate companies we work together as much as possible when we can, so I feel like I know him pretty well. I haven't met very many people within the indoor gardening industry that have the passion about gardening and his own products like Dan does. He's not content with sitting idle and collecting checks like most companies, he's in the trenches with other gardeners learning how to improve his product even more, and to create new ones. I respect the fact that he is here asking for the good and the bad in an open forum....Dan your a badass!

BTW I wasn't compensated for this statement....but Dan you have my address to send the check lol
 
UCHQ

UCHQ

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Does UC require a chiller to prevent root rot?

A chiller is strongly recommended to increase the likelyhood of avoiding root health issues. Besides increasing waters ability to hold more DO in solution, cool water temps (62-68F) can help keep pathogens at bay by retarding their life cycle. Though water temps below 60F can begin to slow the plants metabolism, so keep it dialed in for best results.
We've also noticed increased essential oil and trichome production when the solution is kept below 70F. I would liken not using a chiller in your water culture application to not having a radiator on a top fuel funny car......the engine will start without it (the cooling system) but you likely won't finish the race.
In instances where the solution temp gets above 90F for a prolonged period (4+ HRS) it's been observed that plant roots will literally cook, rendering them useless as well as making them a potential pathogen food source.
 
Texas Kid

Texas Kid

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Sup my bruthas, welcome to the farm..

Still doin what i do with your gear and lovin it.

Ready for the new stuff to play with a little

Big up Daniel!!!

Tex
 
B

Bud Head

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I finally got my chiller hooked up and running. What a relief to get those temps down under 70. Getting hot in Nor Cal. AC should be running by tomorrow. Girls are looking good. Nothing but Ionic 250. First run, not sure what to expect, hoping for more with fewer plant count. Root growth is impressive.
 
Mr.GoodCat

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What do you guys prefer to run in the UC, a sterile or live res? What products to you recommend besides a chiller to keep your root zone health optimum? Last but not least what nutrients are optimum in the UC? These are the 3 most common questions regarding your system. I def. think some clarification is needed.

EDIT: And OH what do you think about running hygrozyme in your system to "eat the dead roots"?
 
UCHQ

UCHQ

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What do you guys prefer to run in the UC, a sterile or live res?

Either route can be successful when operated properly.....having said that, both have the potential to stumble as well. Generally, we recommend probiotics (Aquashield, Companion, basically bacillus subtillus) in solution at low dosages or EWC tea for a living system. In the event the problems arise (usually caused by excessive inputs of insoluble organics or EC being too high) it can be helpful to cycle in a periodic week long dosage of antibiotic solutions like Zone, HF, etc. After treating for a week or so with a sterilent, drain away, refill with a dilute nutrient solution and reintroduce probiotics.

What products to you recommend besides a chiller to keep your root zone health optimum?

Not necessarily products as much as practices. Many different "tools" can work well but it's more about how you use them that counts. Keep your nute solution sanitary and clean, avoid epicenter "add backs" of concentrated pH adjusters and nutes, if using beneficials avoid over feeding them as this can cause pH spikes and biosolids to develop. Most importantly watch your plants, if they slow in feeding or uptaking nutes something is starting to go wrong. It's during these stalling periods that your plants become most susceptable to attacks by pests and disease.

Last but not least what nutrients are optimum in the UC?

Clean, well balanced formulations do best in any water culture application. If what you choose stays pH stable it's likely your plants will do well as a result. Keep in mind that the more inputs you combine together in solution, the higher the likelyhood that your nutes will be imbalanced on a molecular level and subsequently less pH stable as a result.

These are the 3 most common questions regarding your system. I def. think some clarification is needed.

Frankly the nutes you see used most in the UC are as a result of our recommendations, which include DM Gold, Canna, and Ionic. This being said there are a wide variety of different nutes we get reports of growers having success with, remember it's more how you use it than what you use.

EDIT: And OH what do you think about running hygrozyme in your system to "eat the dead roots"?

The enzymes in these bottled zyme products are very effective in bioremediating substances such as sloughed off or broken roots, root exudate (sugars exuded by the roots to feed microbes) and tiny leaf debris......in most hydroponics systems. In the UC on the other hand these types of products have provided mixed and in many cases poor responses including pH problems, solution clouding and most often the formation of mucous like biofilms that coat roots and airstones rendering both less efficient. Once the biofilm establishes it's not unusual for algaes to become established as a result of the reduced turbulence and atmospheric O2 introduction to the solution. It seems as though something in the bottled zyme products also feeds and encourages the algae worsening any problems that may already exist

Avoid having debris in the system you'd need a zyme for, in other words be mindful to avoid putting things into the system that necessitate being broken down. And if you do have a need for enzymes it's preferred you introduce ben bacteria that will produce the enzymes you need for the bioremediating.
If you have debris in your solution our recommendation is to drain away the system content so as to remove the organic matter and not be reliant on products to digest it away, which may lead to side effects like biofilm. If debris continues to reoccur than something is out of balance in your systems nutrition and needs to be addressed, in which case call CC for further diagnosis and remedies.
 
Bubblehaze

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Welcome to the farm !

I love the UC and have had great success with it so far.

I was informed by Dan that I shouldn't have to flush with plain water in between water changes. Although even at low EC's I haven't been able to get the plants to stay happy without it. So I flush with plain water for 24 hours every nutrient change or every 4 weeks.

Any suggestions on this matter ?
 
UCHQ

UCHQ

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Welcome to the farm !

I love the UC and have had great success with it so far.

I was informed by Dan that I shouldn't have to flush with plain water in between water changes. Although even at low EC's I haven't been able to get the plants to stay happy without it. So I flush with plain water for 24 hours every nutrient change or every 4 weeks.

Any suggestions on this matter ?

Often after prolonged exposure to nutes, as in your case, plants will react favorably to fresh water as they are able to fully hydrate without the osmotic interruption caused by the mineral salts in the nutrient solution.

Every growers scenario (varieties, environmental conditions, fertz) is different. What's most important is that you react to your plants needs which is what you are doing, so keep up with what worx for you.
 
motherlode

motherlode

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What's most important is that you react to your plants needs which is what you are doing, so keep up with what worx for you.

true dat!

:smiley_joint:
 
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