Powdery Mildew Started-Do I Harvest?

  • Thread starter jigglybones
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J

jigglybones

Hi Friends,

Unfortunately, I just noticed powdery mildew in my garden 3 days ago. I had hoped it was contained to the clones only, but that's not the case. These big girls are all 9 - 10 weeks into flowering, with clear trichs. Should I harvest now?



ps I'm trying neem oil for treatment, as my grows are all 100% organic/soil/no pesticides.
 
R

Rolln J

Guest
YOU DO NOT want to spray neem on your buds!

organic or not its still gonna taste like funky ass!
 
J

jigglybones

lol... sorry, i just read what i wrote. no, i didn't spray anything on the big girls. so, should i harvest, rolln j?
 
R

Rolln J

Guest
whew - was hoping I caught ya before you did that!

depends on how bad it is bro... is it just some spots on lower leaves? of is there lots of white - you seeing it on buds?

whats your temps and humidity like?
 
J

jigglybones

it's white powder starting on the main stalk & lower stems. This is contained to 3 plants, 4 others have yet to show any signs. Temps run 65/night, 75-79/days. Humidity 40-60%, usually 50%.
 
R

Rolln J

Guest
cut affected stuff off those three and just keep a real good eye on everything - I use a product called green cure for late in flower pm control - but I hear seranade works too and is supposed to be safe - your so close to harvest - id let them go as long as you can...

adding circulation - taking off extra fan leaves to get light to the bottoms of the plants, raising your night temps and keeping the humidity under 40% if you can will go a long way to getting you the extra week you need.

raising your night temp will help the humidity from spiking after lights out - maybe a little heater on a timer 10 minutes before lights out...
 
2

20north

just expect that all your plants are already covered in it its just not actually attacking your plants yet ... any amount of moisture around your plants will in help the spores grow.

how clean to do you keep your room? i would remove anything that has signs of pm even if i thought i cleaned it off... mold is nuts and it has more ways than anything to destroy your season and to come back ..

if you can get this http://www.greencure.net/

works wonders
just get a heater or a dehumidifer for when your temp drops below 70 you dont want the mold to grow so just dont give it an enviroment that lets it grow damn dank dirty cold enviroments grow mold spores

get more air movement :/

try to keep your humidity at 45% or 40% this may cost you more money though a AC woudl help keep everything solid an AC is a very good investment

mold sucks i hope it works out for you what kind of strains are late in flower? sativas? are they not super dense if so watch them and stay clean too

ive put neem on my buds you really dont want to do this it makes the bong rips taste horrid get some greencure it rocks i think RJ told me


to me this grow sounds like it needs to just get some meds out of it and take everything down and clean it..clean it good............ clean the room good and use an aero cloenr so you can avoid the humidity dome those things cause pm sometimes

powdery mildew isnt something you want to shake off you want to go bloody insane and fix it thats my 2 pennys
 
R

Rolln J

Guest
just expect that all your plants are already covered in it its just not actually attacking your plants yet ... any amount of moisture around your plants will in help the spores grow.

this is completely wrong - it is in fact attacking his plants - you dont see spores until the disease has taken hold - and its not like what you think of when you say MOLD - this is a systemic plant disease that is spread by spores - not the same kind of thing as mildew from standing water, bud mold/rot AT ALL!
 
J

jigglybones

Powdery and Downy Mildew

http://www.maximumyield.com/article_sh_db.php?articleID=78&submit=Go

The below info is edited from Maximum Yield Magazine. Readers should check out above link for full article.
-----------------------------------------

Powdery mildew is often confused with 'downy mildew'.

The first symptom of downy mildew is often the appearance of light green or yellow spots on the upper surface of the older leaves, with the spores forming on the underside of the foliage. Later symptoms include whitish clumps of fluffy spores on the leaf surface. Downy mildew requires moisture (rH of at least 95%) to develop. Keeping the plants dry and the growing area well ventilated when conditions are cool will help prevent the disease.

Powdery mildew is much more common. Powdery mildew covers much of both the lower and upper sides of the leaf. Areas affected enlarge in a circular patten, spreading a white dusty growth over the whole leaf surface. As the disease advances, the leaves become brown and dried and will drop off. Infected foliage and shoots tend to become discolored, distorted and completely covered in a powdery white growth as the disease progresses through a crop. Later fruits will often fail to mature and will be small and often misshapen.

Powdery mildew is favored by dry atmospheric and growing conditions, moderate temps, reduced light intensity, good nutrition and succulent plant growth. Spores are spread via wind or air movement, and certain insects can also carry the disease. Powdery mildew spores don't require a film of water to be present on the leaf surface to germinate and infect the plant tissue. In fact, if the powdery mildew spores are in contact with water they are inhibited to a certain extent.

Powdery mildew spores germinate best in a temp range of around 72-88F, and in shaded areas of the crop, so it is more severe in closely planted crops. If the spores, entering a growing area, make contact with a plant under conditions of reduced light intensity, a temperature of 72-88F, and absence of moisture then germination will occur within two hours, and infection will be two days later.

Silica based dusts and sprays give a protective coat over the leaf surface and thus prevent the mildew spores from germinating.

It has also been proven that baking soda, mixed with a high quality detergent, can give good control of mildew on a number of plant species. It is thought that the high pH of the spray which coats the leaves inhibits the growth of the mildew disease. Current recommendations are for two teaspoons of baking soda per litre of water, with a good 'squirt' of a high quality liquid dish washing detergent (or other wetting agent such as 'coco-wet'), applied as a preventative spray will give reasonable control of mildew disease.

There are numerous fungicidal products for the control of mildew disease.
 
J

jaybird

i run a fan on low just to keep a good air circulation..lower humidity...if you harvest early...there's a good chance you'll be disappointed especially if the triches are clear...try to wait another week or two to cloud up...why cut your gro short and not get the finished product...I agree with Rollin J...maybe a supplementary light can be used in the region of the mildew as well so you don't have to cut back as much...are your fan leaves yellowing yet? if so...good sign..you're getting close...good luck..
aloha...be safe...and Gro-On
jaybird
 
S

SmokeMan

Guest
Good thread, I recently purchased some green cure on the advise of a online forum. So now since the weather has been real cold my flower room has been getting real cold. So ust today I noticed only 2 plants have some small mold spots ont he outside of bud(none on the inside yet). I didnt think a heater was needed but now I know it is.

So my question to Rollin is can I spray greencure on my buds to stop/kill the small spots of mold . Because it hasnt spread to the inside of buds only the outside(just 2 top buds). My mold is a gray webby mold. Not powdery.

Sorry about hijacking your thread. I just didnt want to start another thread when this is being discussed here.
 
J

jigglybones

Ok, I jumped the gun did a little harvesting. I still have 3 LaConfidentials, 1 Cheese, 1 White Widow. Running a 9p - 9a cycle & all trichs clear this am.

If I address these points in above post...."Powdery mildew spores germinate best in a temp range of around 72-88F, and in shaded areas of the crop, so it is more severe in closely planted crops. If the spores, entering a growing area, make contact with a plant under conditions of reduced light intensity, a temperature of 72-88F, and absence of moisture then germination will occur within two hours, and infection will be two days later."

This makes sense point by point. The temp ranges were about 72 -78. It was a little darker. Remember the mildew was found on lower third of plant stalks. In addition, I brought clones directly into my grow room, without separating them for a short period of observation. I also think I've been under watering my girls. (definitely NOT over watering. I use a cheap meter to check, but was waiting till the pot was almost bone dry).

I have put the clones in grow room closet for now with fluorescent lighting (cheese clones cut 11/30 & 12/06). All are now stable, some show slight signs of growth - lucky me! I'll have to respray the neem on them tomorrow am. That's 2 1/2 days after initial spray. I'd like to bring them out into grow room for supplemental lighting during the day cycle of room. They could get a little hps lighting. Or, I could give them some mh lighting, which I had been doing..... 15 min here, 15 min there..

Please feel free to comment on my prop 215 legal grow.
 
R

Rolln J

Guest
Good thread, I recently purchased some green cure on the advise of a online forum. So now since the weather has been real cold my flower room has been getting real cold. So ust today I noticed only 2 plants have some small mold spots ont he outside of bud(none on the inside yet). I didnt think a heater was needed but now I know it is.

So my question to Rollin is can I spray greencure on my buds to stop/kill the small spots of mold . Because it hasnt spread to the inside of buds only the outside(just 2 top buds). My mold is a gray webby mold. Not powdery.

Sorry about hijacking your thread. I just didnt want to start another thread when this is being discussed here.
green cure will work on downy mold and powdery mold - gray webby mold on your buds is all bad!

sounds like bud mold (I have never seen that first hand) you should start a thread maybe and post some pix...
 
purpleberry

purpleberry

I had PM show up on my last grow, and i think it came from a new clone i got. Ive cleaned up everything really good and broke down the flower room for a few weeks, I treated the mother with a systemic fungicide, Will this get rid of it for good? Should i treat the clones from these mother, then grow new mothers? I think this will break the cycle and get rid of it. Ive had mites from clones several times and I break there ass no problem. I just think it takes work and big gun pesticides to solve some problems. Organic stuff mostly hides the problem and needs to be sprayed every week. I just keep it around to spray in flower if needed.
 
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