Ppm And Nutrient Burn?

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gardnguyahoy

gardnguyahoy

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I recently learned that i need to control the PPM in my feeding depending on not just the stage of life but also how healthy it is? Does this cause nutrient burn? Im a beginner so im trying to do this right. I bought a ppm meter, 30$... starting with water at 80ppm i added the 'light feeding' dosage of cal mag, 1/4 the dosage of my vegetative nutrient. (organic bio food) 1/4 the dosage of a vegatative nutrient (organic bio food rich in nitrogen. And a tsp of 'sparetime supply' trace mineral additive. This brought the ppm up to about 400. And i fed my vegging girls. Now. What im asking is, if I'm controlling ppm, will that help keep me from nutrient burn? Or is this just one of many factors to control when feeding.

Thanks in Advance for any and all advice. Sorry if this question is 'dumb' im just learning. First indoor grow right now. Thank you for letting me be a part of your community, what I've learned already is immense, im looking forward to cramming more info in the ol noodle!
 
Apollo13

Apollo13

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Depends on the soil u use. If u use a real quality soil, no real need for nutrients imo, go ewc teas and flood with microbes instead of ferilzer.. Hopefully u have a ph meter if ur mixing nutes. Go simple is my advice. Too much nutrients kills ur plant too little nutrients harvests smoke. U would rather have less than perfect than too much..
 
Apollo13

Apollo13

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If ur edge teeth on leaf start to burn or rise up, nute burn. If tip of leaves burn it is as well. If tips of leaves point towards the ground, it's nitrogen toxicity, called "the claw".. ur leaf should be almost dead flat.. learn to read ur plant is what makes a good grower..
 
gardnguyahoy

gardnguyahoy

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Depends on the soil u use. If u use a real quality soil, no real need for nutrients imo, go ewc teas and flood with microbes instead of ferilzer.. Hopefully u have a ph meter if ur mixing nutes. Go simple is my advice. Too much nutrients kills ur plant too little nutrients harvests smoke. U would rather have less than perfect than too much..
Im experimenting with different soils. The plants in question are in organic soil. The ph of the water was near neutral before i mixed the organic nutes. Does ph change after i mix in nutrients? Learning the signs still. Paying close attention to growth. Reaction. Writing down everything i do and when. Things are going relatively well
 
gardnguyahoy

gardnguyahoy

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Ph absolutely changes when you add things

Okay so i mix my concoction of water and nutes, measure ppm and ph. Once those are balanced its okay to feed? Keeping these two things balanced should be what i need to avoid nutrient burn?

Also.. The ppm allowance is supposed to change over the course of the plants life yeah? im still confused as to where to keep my ppm measurements throughout the plants life
 
gardnguyahoy

gardnguyahoy

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If ur edge teeth on leaf start to burn or rise up, nute burn. If tip of leaves burn it is as well. If tips of leaves point towards the ground, it's nitrogen toxicity, called "the claw".. ur leaf should be almost dead flat.. learn to read ur plant is what makes a good grower..

I experimented and gave one plant more than the other four. This plant recently showed signs of heat stress, edges turning up, like its having trouble transpiring. But i maintain a constant temp of 70-74 humidity around 60. So you think this is a sign of nutrient burn? If needs be i can post a photo
 
KiLoEleMeNt

KiLoEleMeNt

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AW just flush that bugger good reeeeaaaal good..... gonna set her back a week or so cuz of stress?! u gotta either spend money on flush or just water that chick until you run water out the bottom testing both in and out from the very start and they match
 
gardnguyahoy

gardnguyahoy

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AW just flush that bugger good reeeeaaaal good..... gonna set her back a week or so cuz of stress?! u gotta either spend money on flush or just water that chick until you run water out the bottom testing both in and out from the very start and they match

Okay so flush her out ...[gotta go with good clean water this time my dude :)] your saying. I should do the measurements on the water going in, and not stop flushing until the measurements read the same on the run off
 
KiLoEleMeNt

KiLoEleMeNt

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I doubt you will get the same coming out on ppm that would be a ton of water and most likely would drowned her..... I have found just the ph will completely regulate, commonly you will want to just get close and wait for it to regulate or flux for a few days. Basically if you try to hard to fix her with too much you take many risks
 
gardnguyahoy

gardnguyahoy

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Is there a rule of thumb when it comes to changing the amount of salts your putting into your soil throughout its life. I measured the nutes at 400 ppm. They're in late veg. About to go into flower. Can my ppm increase over its life cycle?
 
KiLoEleMeNt

KiLoEleMeNt

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Flushing with an actual flushing agent is what I commonly use. However I am sure they're are a few other ways to accomplish this you don't always have to turn to the bottle
 
gardnguyahoy

gardnguyahoy

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Flushing with an actual flushing agent is what I commonly use. However I am sure they're are a few other ways to accomplish this you don't always have to turn to the bottle

I was just gonna flush with regular water. I was more or less asking about later in my plants life.
 
KiLoEleMeNt

KiLoEleMeNt

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Is there a rule of thumb when it comes to changing the amount of salts your putting into your soil throughout its life. I measured the nutes at 400 ppm. They're in late veg. About to go into flower. Can my ppm increase over its life cycle?
^^^^^^^
Yes they can water is not enough to remove salts ¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡

Flushing with an actual flushing agent is what I commonly use. However I am sure they're are a few other ways to accomplish this you don't always have to turn to the bottle

Such as peroxide , bleach , other home remedies for flush and I do not recommend any of them
 
gardnguyahoy

gardnguyahoy

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OH, Okay, i got it. Thanks so much for your patience. Is there anything specific about those types of cleansers i should look for as far as a decent company or specific brand? Im trying to make my grow 100% organic, what products do you use? I didn't realize water wasnt enough! Thank you for your insight
 
KiLoEleMeNt

KiLoEleMeNt

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It's all personal preference I'm not going to recommend any brands sorry
 
Fresh Starts

Fresh Starts

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Let get the story straight here:
-Water will flush salts out just fine without any additives though there are flushing products at the local hydro store that will assist the process. They are not necessary.
-Plants that have ridges on the margins of their leaves can mean multiple things not just high salt content- which translates into high PPM's (roughly). It can mean the lights are too close. It can mean the temps are too high. It can mean the plant is under stress from pests. It can mean the plant is in stress from transplant. The best thing to do here is to provide pictures so we can diagnose this further.
-Soil does not flush easily and before you do that get some pictures up

Heres my advice about PPMs
PPM pens are a bit of a misnomer. Part Per Million a measurement of salt concentration per million parts of water but the truth is PPM pens don't measure PPM, they measure electro-conductivity or EC and convert EC into PPM. This is a long story that can be googled but here's the synopsis: Start getting used to reading EC and not PPM.

This thread should probably be moved to the infirmary section @Seamaiden
 
Joe Fresh

Joe Fresh

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I recently learned that i need to control the PPM in my feeding depending on not just the stage of life but also how healthy it is? Does this cause nutrient burn? Im a beginner so im trying to do this right. I bought a ppm meter, 30$... starting with water at 80ppm i added the 'light feeding' dosage of cal mag, 1/4 the dosage of my vegetative nutrient. (organic bio food) 1/4 the dosage of a vegatative nutrient (organic bio food rich in nitrogen. And a tsp of 'sparetime supply' trace mineral additive. This brought the ppm up to about 400. And i fed my vegging girls. Now. What im asking is, if I'm controlling ppm, will that help keep me from nutrient burn? Or is this just one of many factors to control when feeding.

Thanks in Advance for any and all advice. Sorry if this question is 'dumb' im just learning. First indoor grow right now. Thank you for letting me be a part of your community, what I've learned already is immense, im looking forward to cramming more info in the ol noodle!


if your in soil or coco, keeping feedings at 400-700ppm MAX every feeding will be good, just give plain water once every 10 days to 14 days and then continue with feeding....if you ever see any signs of over feeding, just give plain water for the next watering or 2 and then lower pms a bit the following feeding
 
KiLoEleMeNt

KiLoEleMeNt

1,900
263
Let get the story straight here:
-Water will flush salts out just fine without any additives though there are flushing products at the local hydro store that will assist the process. They are not necessary.
-Plants that have ridges on the margins of their leaves can mean multiple things not just high salt content- which translates into high PPM's (roughly). It can mean the lights are too close. It can mean the temps are too high. It can mean the plant is under stress from pests. It can mean the plant is in stress from transplant. The best thing to do here is to provide pictures so we can diagnose this further.
-Soil does not flush easily and before you do that get some pictures up

Heres my advice about PPMs
PPM pens are a bit of a misnomer. Part Per Million a measurement of salt concentration per million parts of water but the truth is PPM pens don't measure PPM, they measure electro-conductivity or EC and convert EC into PPM. This is a long story that can be googled but here's the synopsis: Start getting used to reading EC and not PPM.

This thread should probably be moved to the infirmary section @Seamaiden

I agree with everything but the fact that water is enough to clear heavy salts out of media there are a few good threads on the subject now normal feeding build up yes but not salts after a certain point of buildup.

But everyone has their own method and opinions and we are all entitled to it. Therfore it is up to the individual to decide what works best for themselves and the methods they wish to use
 
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