Pursuing first hydro grow with RDWC, help a noob.

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threatco

threatco

does that mean its not a huge investment that wont pay off in the near futurre?
Depends what you get quoted.

A friend I helped was quoted 30% more total cost just to upgrade the 32 nonwhites to cree. Keep in mind there 544 total lights on the board. Just made no sense at all to me. Maybe only upgrading the IR or UV is a thing. Still, epistar for the 660nm reds has always made the most economical sense in the quotes ive seen.
 
threatco

threatco

Depends what you get quoted.

A friend I helped was quoted 30% more total cost just to upgrade the 32 nonwhites to cree. Keep in mind there 544 total lights on the board. Just made no sense at all to me. Maybe only upgrading the IR or UV is a thing. Still, epistar for the 660nm reds has always made the most economical sense in the quotes ive seen.

This is all assuming you dont want to buy seperate supplemental lights for 660 red, IR and UV.

Positiong them for coverage and wiring seems like a headache to me.

The switch feature on the non whites should make up for their burn out and dimming reputation. Conserves them while the whites get used alone almost half the time. They will last years either way so that is why I went with that.

Is it really that bad if in 4 or 5 years the nonwhites stop working? You are left with a 512 pc white board, with no wasted efficiency because the nonwhite switch is off.
 
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Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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This is all assuming you dont want to buy seperate supplemental lights for 660 IR and UV.

Positiong them for coverage and wiring seems like a headache to me.

The switch feature on the non whites should make up for their burn out and dimming reputation. Conserves them while the whites get used alone almost half the time. They will last years either way so that is why I went with that.
👍 Fair point sir
 
jaypru369

jaypru369

This is all assuming you dont want to buy seperate supplemental lights for 660 IR and UV.

Positiong them for coverage and wiring seems like a headache to me.

The switch feature on the non whites should make up for their burn out and dimming reputation. Conserves them while the whites get used alone almost half the time. They will last years either way so that is why I went with that.

Is it really that bad it in 4 or 5 years the nonwhites stop working? You are left with a 512 pc white board, with no wasted efficiency because the nonwhite switch is off.
starting to get a little confused so i guess what am i looking for exactly in a good one?
 
threatco

threatco

Im suggest you DO get onboard nonwhite diodes, instead of seperate lights for nonwhite coverage.

Im suggesting Epistar is good enough for non white diodes. I would pay maybe 20$ more for 32 Cree upgraded from Epistar but usualy it costs a lot more. Cree might last 2x longer and be <5% brighter. I wouldn't pay an arm and a leg for that.
 
jaypru369

jaypru369

Im suggest you DO get onboard nonwhite diodes, instead of seperate lights for nonwhite coverage.

Im suggesting Epistar is good enough for non white diodes. I would pay maybe 20$ more for 32 Cree upgraded from Epistar but usualy it costs a lot more. Cree might last 2x longer and be <5% brighter. I wouldn't pay an arm and a leg for that.
okay so i might have to ask them bc most listing are lacking this info
 
threatco

threatco

When I say nonwhite. It is my short form for all 3; visible red (660nm) and the invisible Infrared and Ultraviolet.

Since getting UV is under debated, its just easier to say non whites when discussing epistar vs cree.

The whites should all be Samsung LM301B. LM301H is same but costs more. Other brands not really considered.
 
jaypru369

jaypru369

Edited
No. Warm white could mean 3000k white. Cool white could mean 4000k white.
so do i want both in the lights i get? their listings are fucked but from what it looks like you can choose both or one, and some just have one option that says both, and some just say full spectrum, sorry im so confused on this
 
threatco

threatco

Many people use pure 3000k or 3500k with good results. I went with 3000k 4000k even mix. I don't think any is proven superior in a measuable way.

I would stick with Yuanhui, Kingbrite, or Meijiu. Im no expert on Alibaba vendors but those seem to be the most popular based on threads here.

Cree Samsung Epistar are diode manufacturers. They are parts used by the companies to build the lights.

Like how I suggest Meanwell is best driver brand. Just another part option.

Sf 2000 uses the same exact brand diodes and driver as the yuanhui ad i posted earlier.
 
jaypru369

jaypru369

Many people use pure 3000k or 3500k with good results. I went with 3000k 4000k even mix. I don't think any is proven superior in a measuable way.

I would stick with Yuanhui, Kingbrite, or Meijiu. Im no expert on Alibaba vendors but those seem to be the most popular based on threads here.

Cree Samsung Epistar are diode manufacturers. They are parts used by the companies to build the lights.

Like how I suggest Meanwell is best driver brand. Just another part option.

Sf 2000 uses the same exact brand diodes and driver as the yuanhui ad i posted earlier.
okay understand. So are cree and epistar the makers of the UV/IR lights you were talking about?
 
threatco

threatco

how is this one? it allows to add supplemental bars to add extra lights during flower https://www.alibaba.com/product-det...spm=a2700.details.deiletai6.21.2b05b9c0APTkJH

*edit- looks like i can ask for mix of lights, and get extra lights for flower to add with their option above. what it be worth it to get those extra lights and supplemental light bar attachment?

Link not working.

Im not familiar with the bigger systems with rails ect. My friend did a 4x8 tent with 6x 240w (2 panel 1 driver) quantum boards. After looking at those bigger things, they were not as good of a value. But I dont know what all is out there.

Your shipping costs advantage might make the difference.
 
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