Root rot and fungus gnat treatment options spider mites as well😭 help!

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ElevatedMI

ElevatedMI

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I have fungus gnat infestation/ root rot starting on my outdoor plants in 30-45 gal pots that are a few weeks into flower. I flushed them several days ago, and have been battling rainy weather, which has slowed down the pots from drying out. It’s now dry enough to treat them. Weapons I have on hand are 35% hydrogen peroxide diluted to 3%, organocide, microbe brew, and kangaroots. I’m trying to decide how to proceed. I run Fox farm product line and plants are in ocean forest soil. Can I use a small dose of peroxide with nutes? Will it kill my microbe brew and kangaroots? If I don’t run the peroxide, can I run organocide with my nutes, microbe brew, and kangaroot? Can the microbe brew/kangaroots combo kill the fungus gnat larvae and root rot? Sorry, still learning! Any help or guidance would be appreciated!
 
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oldskol4evr

oldskol4evr

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I have fungus gnat infestation/ root rot starting on my outdoor plants in 30-45 gal pots that are a few weeks into flower. I flushed them several days ago, and have been battling rainy weather, which has slowed down the pots from drying out. It’s now dry enough to treat them. Weapons I have on hand are 35% hydrogen peroxide diluted to 3%, organocide, microbe brew, and kangaroots. I’m trying to decide how to proceed. I run Fox farm product line and plants are in ocean forest soil. Can I use a small dose of peroxide with nutes? Will it kill my microbe brew and kangaroots? If I don’t run the peroxide, can I run organocide with my nutes, microbe brew, and kangaroot? Can the microbe brew/kangaroots combo kill the fungus gnat larvae and root rot? Sorry, still learning! Any help or guidance would be appreciated!
you say rain is effecting you from drying out soil,then you say your flushing for knats,bro you are washing every thing out of your pots,first make a tent with a v at top were water will runoff but not come straight down on your plant,you cant stop mother nature,just a roof over her would help at least 50% keeping the rain from coming straight down the stalk,leave the sides open just a clear plastic make shift roof all needed,next dont flush anymore,get some azamax are something simailar and feed the plant to you just get a runoff,then 3 days later do it again to get the larvae for the knats,all the rain and feeding also and constant moisture is the reason you have them,that take care of the knats,but the problem is only beginning,right a great recipe for PM
 
ElevatedMI

ElevatedMI

11
3
Roof has been on for 3 days. We had 2 rains before I could em up. The flush I did was part of my feeding schedule. After the the flush, rains hit hard. Soil was wet, then humidity and rain prevented drying for a week. Ok so 2 soil treatments 3 days apart then let dry and feed? Would nuke em work vs azamax?
 
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oldskol4evr

oldskol4evr

12,306
438
Roof has been on for 3 days. We had 2 rains before I could em up. The flush I did was part of my feeding schedule. After the the flush, rains hit hard. Soil was wet, then humidity and rain prevented drying for a week. Ok so 2 soil treatments 3 days apart then let dry and feed? Would nuke em work vs azamax?
never heard of it,but sure it will,when it comes to bugs,they get imune pretty quick and it is a great practice to switch them around to get best results,i use the azamax,then capt jack,then bt to finish off,anything with BT in it wipes out any worm,want hurt the earth worms ,but root worms and pillars hell ya,with all the moisture you got that is a concern,i noticed you did have the plants off the ground on the pallet that alone is the best thing to do in container,in ground you dont have that option and freaking grubs ,slugs and snails will break your back,i like the tent setup by the way,like i said you cant fight mother nature and believe it or not when the sun pops out and rain is gone,your plant is gonna explode with happiness ,rain water is great and plants gonna show you that ,so if you have a little die off when it starts to dry out dont worry so much,it gonna happen did you have the knats before the rain started?if so you are feeding to much,ive grown in them bags before and dont care for them,they claim you cant over water in them,might be true,but also the outer edges of the bag dry quick right next to the texture of it,but inside the root ball it still drenched causing the knats,thats why i dont use them any more,my daughter in law does and is always asking me whats wrong with her plants,them damn bags i say,she shrugs shoulder and just gives me the old gizzer look,2 days later same thing,so i showed her,took one bag and worked the plant out of it,dry as hell like a brick,even dropped it from 2 ft above ground to the ground almost bounced,started scraping soil away ,dry as hell and she just watered day before,once i got 3 inches into all the soil,the roots and ball were so drenched that the roots had changed color and mushy,they had rotted,so you can over water in them,since that time she went and got a moisture probe and sticks it in middle between the stalk and side of bag about 4 in deep and when she gets to 45% waters and hasnt had any problems since
 
ElevatedMI

ElevatedMI

11
3
The dead leaf on the bud in the 4th picture is concerning. Looks like how budrot presents itself.

I do have some bud rot starting, fans getting set up right now. Soil has stayed wet for a week now almost, can’t get it to dry too much humidity. Idk wtf to do, soil is wet but I need to kill bugs/root rot. Thinking of doing the peroxide/high phosphate fert/organocide combo🤷‍♂️. Then feeding once that drys out.
 
QuestForZest

QuestForZest

129
43
Ok so in my opinion, the fungus gnats aren't really an issue as it takes a while for them to do any substantial damage and your very late in flower. It's mainly that they will transmit disease that makes them so undesirable...but if you are going to chop in two or so weeks then is there really a need to destroy them? If there is (i.e. you plan on doing a winter garden or reusing your soil) there's gonats, mosquito dunks, or you can put sound on top of the pot. there is also some beneficial organisms that you can add to the soil - steinerne a feltiae and products that contain
Beauverla bassiana. I'm not sure why you think you have root rot but if you do - mycostop will help.

I also agree that it looks like you're getting bud rot.... There's a product called doctor enzymes that will take care of Bud rot and pm.
 
ElevatedMI

ElevatedMI

11
3
Ok so in my opinion, the fungus gnats aren't really an issue as it takes a while for them to do any substantial damage and your very late in flower. It's mainly that they will transmit disease that makes them so undesirable...but if you are going to chop in two or so weeks then is there really a need to destroy them? If there is (i.e. you plan on doing a winter garden or reusing your soil) there's gonats, mosquito dunks, or you can put sound on top of the pot. there is also some beneficial organisms that you can add to the soil - steinerne a feltiae and products that contain
Beauverla bassiana. I'm not sure why you think you have root rot but if you do - mycostop will help.

I also agree that it looks like you're getting bud rot.... There's a product called doctor enzymes that will take care of Bud rot and pm.

The brown/black spots and splitting and week stems on the worst plant made me think root rot was the initial problem. I have nuke em to spray for bud rot, could I spray this with out watering first? Nuke em says to water and wait at least an hr after, but do I need to do this if the roots and pots are still wet?
 
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QuestForZest

QuestForZest

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The brown/black spots and splitting and week stems on the worst plant made me think root rot was the initial problem. I have nuke em to spray for bud rot, could I spray this with out watering first? Nuke em says to water and wait at least an hr after, but do I need to do this if the roots and pots are still wet?


Correction to my original comment should say you can put SAND not sound -

Anyways, That's not really root rot as it manifests and appears much differently (plants look over watered, they yellow out, they fall apart)..that's just straight stem rot. Your plant was exposed to too much water - more than likely to much rain with high humidity. You are having a fungal overload. I'm not really sure what Nuke em' is for as I've never use the product because from what I heard it does not really work well...

You need to address the stem rot and the bud rot... Dr. Enzymes.
 
ElevatedMI

ElevatedMI

11
3
Correction to my original comment should say you can put SAND not sound -

Anyways, That's not really root rot as it manifests and appears much differently (plants look over watered, they yellow out, they fall apart)..that's just straight stem rot. Your plant was exposed to too much water - more than likely to much rain with high humidity. You are having a fungal overload. I'm not really sure what Nuke em' is for as I've never use the product because from what I heard it does not really work well...

You need to address the stem rot and the bud rot... Dr. Enzymes.

Thanks questforzest!! I’m headed to grow store now
 
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Burned Haze

Guest
I would get for fungus gnats liquid BTI! (Microbes lift BMC )

way cheaper and more officiant than granular mosquitos bits + better shelf life ( I would just apply higher rate than what they suggest and every 5-7 days instead of every 10-14 days like what the say )

I’m fungus gnat free ( over a year ) since I started using this stuff on my IPM, love it
 
ElevatedMI

ElevatedMI

11
3
I would get for fungus gnats liquid BTI! (Microbes lift BMC )

way cheaper and more officiant than granular mosquitos bits + better shelf life ( I would just apply higher rate than what they suggest and every 5-7 days instead of every 10-14 days like what the say )

I’m fungus gnat free ( over a year ) since I started using this stuff on my IPM, love it

Sorry I’m kinda new, microbes lift bmc? What does bmc stand for? Oh shoot never mind it’s a brand😂🤦‍♂️
 
ElevatedMI

ElevatedMI

11
3
Correction to my original comment should say you can put SAND not sound -

Anyways, That's not really root rot as it manifests and appears much differently (plants look over watered, they yellow out, they fall apart)..that's just straight stem rot. Your plant was exposed to too much water - more than likely to much rain with high humidity. You are having a fungal overload. I'm not really sure what Nuke em' is for as I've never use the product because from what I heard it does not really work well...

You need to address the stem rot and the bud rot... Dr. Enzymes.

Would you suggest not running the organocide with my feeding then? I should feed an hr or so before I spray, correct?
 
B

Burned Haze

Guest
Sorry I’m kinda new, microbes lift bmc? What does bmc stand for? Oh shoot never mind it’s a brand😂🤦‍♂️


Product what I suggested above will kill the larvae after they eat it, it takes time since the adults,fliers and teens won’t be effected . Just apply a few times. Have yellow traps ( that traps the adults ) and only water as least often as you can so you your fungus gnats don’t thrive ( drier the medium the better in the battle with fungus gnats and bigggest mistake is over watering in growing ) and water in BTI in every 7 days to kill the fungus gnat larva
 
the rrock

the rrock

1,407
263
I use Merit 75 to kill fungus gnats,root aphids etc,ect. Had them 5 years ago, did a root drench with merit 75 and killed bugs ,eggs. Havent had them ever again.Probably shoulnt use in last stage of flower but its labeled food grade,ok to use on vegtables and fruit,....
 
QuestForZest

QuestForZest

129
43
I use Merit 75 to kill fungus gnats,root aphids etc,ect. Had them 5 years ago, did a root drench with merit 75 and killed bugs ,eggs. Havent had them ever again.Probably shoulnt use in last stage of flower but its labeled food grade,ok to use on vegtables and fruit,....


Merit 75 is Imidacloprid which is responsible for the death of bees and even on Bayer's own website they say not to spray it during bee "foraging" plus, it's Oriental not food grade safe. It's also been linked to cancer and etc. (The research is out there just Google it - I've had this debate many times because I've had RAs for years ugh..) It's definitely a last resort.

But I'm not sure why everyone is tripping over the gnats when if OP doesn't address the stem and bud rot there will be no more fungus gnats cuz the freaking plant will be dead from rot. Like, to me, that's the way bigger issue here...
 
ElevatedMI

ElevatedMI

11
3
Merit 75 is Imidacloprid which is responsible for the death of bees and even on Bayer's own website they say not to spray it during bee "foraging" plus, it's Oriental not food grade safe. It's also been linked to cancer and etc. (The research is out there just Google it - I've had this debate many times because I've had RAs for years ugh..) It's definitely a last resort.

But I'm not sure why everyone is tripping over the gnats when if OP doesn't address the stem and bud rot there will be no more fungus gnats cuz the freaking plant will be dead from rot. Like, to me, that's the way bigger issue here...

Ordered dr zymes using nuke em tonight, should I use organocide(fungacide) with my feeding? Will it mess with my microbe brew and kangaroots?
 
QuestForZest

QuestForZest

129
43
Ordered dr zymes using nuke em tonight, should I use organocide(fungacide) with my feeding? Will it mess with my microbe brew and kangaroots?


I'm not sure what's in any of the products you mentioned are made of..I know mycostop is "Developed from a naturally occurring bacteria, Streptomyces griseoviridis" which does not interfer with beneficial microbes. What's in whatever it is you're talking about? Do you have more rain and humidity coming your way? Right now with so much moisture, less is better.
 

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