Rusty Spots Drying Leaves

[Apollo13]

Listen to smooth bud and seamaiden, I would find new dirt next year. I use quality soils and nutrients. It's worth it in the long run. I know if I get a problem, it's not my nutrients I look at.

 

[Apollo13]

If you must use that soil, maybe a soil work up to find what it's lacking, then repost for the bset way to fix it, before u start up next year. Or maybe the soil is really inconsistent and whatever goes in the bag is what u get. Good luck. At least it's not bugs..

 

[narleyharley]

Could be leaf septorium which is fungal disease. Does look like K deficiency but I've noticed that more on edges with curling.. looks like it could be regular root necrosis from dry pockets in the soil, that is if you don't water twice sometimes...

Or a manganese deficiency , which usually comes with iron and zinc def. .

Could be ph balanced too...


http://www.ilovegrowinginvalid.com/identify-marijuana-plant-problems/

Here's my quick go to go guide when things are off.

 

[maimunji]

Listen to smooth bud and seamaiden,

This mans Seamaiden and Smooth bud
have a lot ot experience and I trust them. They speak the truth, but I dont have K + only. I have bloom nute and I think to hit plant with what I have, due to money issue.

 

[maimunji]

Just to add few notes after flush. Stems turn purple. Plant start to stretch. Rusty spot starts appear at top of the plant on main cola and on the new small leaves at the tops. Burn tips on new growth. Plant look good at all. No burn tips on big leaves. I will give npk 3 2 3 and cal mag and will wait how she respond.

 

[maimunji]

She look hungry but burning tips confusing me. Before years I grow same strain and I can remember this is happening again in late flower same rusty spots on upper leaves and this is happening when I regularly give P and K. Sorry for my English.

 

[Seamaiden]

The rusty spots on upper leaves is likely a calcium deficiency. If after flush the stems turn purple then the plant is either cold or is probably not utilizing phosphorous.

I can't remember, did you post photos? What is your native language, if I may ask?

 

[maimunji]

Hiya Sea Im from Bulgaria and this is my main cola. Yesterday I feed with npk and add cal max extra. After how much time I will expect recovery? With calcium def i know is semi mobile maybe after week? Do I need to feed twice with cal mag extra or maybe wait one week? Plant look good at all.

 

[maimunji]

My mistake is purple stem I flush with cold water.

 

[Seamaiden]

Hiya Sea Im from Bulgaria and this is my main cola. Yesterday I feed with npk and add cal max extra. After how much time I will expect recovery? With calcium def i know is semi mobile maybe after week? Do I need to feed twice with cal mag extra or maybe wait one week? Plant look good at all.

Ah, no, calcium is to be considered pretty much immobile. You will see no correction of calcium deficiencies, only arresting further development of the deficiency.

Thank you for posting pictures. In my opinion, the only problem you have here is really a potassium (K) deficiency. Otherwise they look good in my opinion.

My mistake is purple stem I flush with cold water.

Cold water will cause purpling. The plants require a minimum temperature for certain functions to occur, such as utilizing phosphorous. When they are cold they can not use phosphorous, and so turn red or purple.

I had this problem earlier in the year with my aquaponic tomatoes as the water was just too cold. Adding more nutrients can not make them more available to the plant, only the temperature can do that. Now that we are getting very hot here in California, the plants are quite happy again.

Yours look healthy to me except for the potassium problem. Potassium is mobile and so you should be able to correct it easily.

 

[maimunji]

Thank, Seamaiden if its posible please explain me how to recognize difference between calcium and potassium def when I google and compare my pics with calcium def I'm almoust sure thats is my problem and when I compare to K def I can't see coincidence in this early stage of deficiency but when def start to progress I see that's a K def. Im realy confused.

 

[Seamaiden]

There are several differences, the MOST important is where on the plant the problems are observed.

Calcium is always on the uppermost, newest growth. Always. This is because calcium is immobile.

Potassium seems to always occur in the middle of the plant in my experience. It is mobile.

Calcium deficiencies show as necrosis on the leaf margins or leaf veins. Potassium deficiency can start out as mild yellowing mid-plant, then progresses to uneven necrosis with no noticeable pattern (leaf margins and leaf veins) when compared to calcium deficiency.

 

[narleyharley]

There are several differences, the MOST important is where on the plant the problems are observed.

Calcium is always on the uppermost, newest growth. Always. This is because calcium is immobile.

Potassium seems to always occur in the middle of the plant in my experience. It is mobile.

Calcium deficiencies show as necrosis on the leaf margins or leaf veins. Potassium deficiency can start out as mild yellowing mid-plant, then progresses to uneven necrosis with no noticeable pattern (leaf margins and leaf veins) when compared to calcium deficiency.

Screenshotted this post

 

[maimunji]

Great, great. Very helpful. This section Cannabis infirmary is most interesting for me I really want to read and learn.
Dye to language barrier I can't talk perfect but I completely understand when I read.
So I make research and find my growing medium isn't soil actually it is peat compost I added perlite and 10 % worm casting before popping. I've read this shit have tendency to be very accidic but on package say ph between 5.5 and 6.5. So I measure ph with ph drops and don't have decent ph meter. I alwais water with ph 6.5 and my run off always have color and I think I can't measure run off corectly due to run off color. So ph run off is 4.0 when I mesure with ph drops. I know dolomit lime can help but I can't find in my country. If my plants live in ph 4.0 even 5.0 I think they will look bad but they grow and looks happy. So I want to know how to treat my substrate like something between soil and coco. Substrate drying between 3 and 4 days. I know I can't watering every day like coco but if someone explain will be great. I don't have ppm meter can I add nute almost every water of course no more than bottle say and should I be worried about run off ph? If ph is too low which elemets will lock first calcium and magnesium right? Will post pics with plants they look little stressed but I Low stress training every day and this is normal for me. They're four different strain so don't compare them each to another. I flush sick plant with 3x water ph 6.5 and no change of run off.
Thank for reading.

 

[narleyharley]

Drop the peat moss, it's killing our world anyways... (Peat moss mining)
We burn through the world's peat moss faster then we do oil (per capita) and that might be total bullshit about the oil but I know it's really bad for the earth.

Get some quality compost, if you can't do that, then make some.

Try looking to living compost organics. Ph doesn't matter and depending on the soil, it doesn't need much nutrients... Compost teas and soils my friend. Lots of issues, such as nutrient lockout and pH balance can all be ignored using living soil. Good luck my friend

 

[maimunji]

Thanks buddy I have very successful grow in my terrace before years with this substrate my kali mist give me over 5 onces dry in 6.5 littre pot under 4- 5 hours of direct synlight and I only feed with nettle tea and attami bcuzz bloom C almous every day and no add pk boost . Now I have decent setup and good nutes but will see. Next time I will choice different substrate maybe coco or good soil I don't know for now. I need to focused in my current grow and I don't want to transplant I don't have bigger post and money for good soil. Plants is heavy lst and I can't see how to transplant without damage them.

 

[Seamaiden]

Great, great. Very helpful. This section Cannabis infirmary is most interesting for me I really want to read and learn.
Dye to language barrier I can't talk perfect but I completely understand when I read.
So I make research and find my growing medium isn't soil actually it is peat compost I added perlite and 10 % worm casting before popping. I've read this shit have tendency to be very accidic but on package say ph between 5.5 and 6.5. So I measure ph with ph drops and don't have decent ph meter. I alwais water with ph 6.5 and my run off always have color and I think I can't measure run off corectly due to run off color. So ph run off is 4.0 when I mesure with ph drops. I know dolomit lime can help but I can't find in my country. If my plants live in ph 4.0 even 5.0 I think they will look bad but they grow and looks happy. So I want to know how to treat my substrate like something between soil and coco. Substrate drying between 3 and 4 days. I know I can't watering every day like coco but if someone explain will be great. I don't have ppm meter can I add nute almost every water of course no more than bottle say and should I be worried about run off ph? If ph is too low which elemets will lock first calcium and magnesium right? Will post pics with plants they look little stressed but I Low stress training every day and this is normal for me. They're four different strain so don't compare them each to another. I flush sick plant with 3x water ph 6.5 and no change of run off.
Thank for reading.

Isn't Google Translate wonderful? I am also using an app called Duolingo to help with my Spanish skills. We can work with what you've given us here.

While dolomite lime is helpful ANYTHING with a carbonate (CO3) or bicarbonate (HC03-) will neutralize acidity. So, anything from baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) to oyster shells to limestone to egg shells will help you here.

Since the run-off pH is still rather low, I suggest first testing your source water, and if it's of a high(er) pH (above 7) then I suggest a bit of a flush, then wait. I don't recall what type of nutrients you use, but know that if it's high in ammonium/ammonia (NH3/NH4) it will cause further drop in the pH. So you might want to consider finding a fertilizer that uses nitrate (NO3) nitrogen instead of ammoniacal nitrogen.

Your plants look pretty good, I can't get them to enlarge right now but they don't look terrible. Know that with coir cultivation you tend to see more problems with potassium, calcium and magnesium.

 

[maimunji]

Hi Sea, no I don't use google translate this is my free style english.
My tap water comes above 8 maybe 8.5 if I measure corectly but my ph color scale is only to 8. I use lemon juice about 2.5 ml. to litrre to bring down ph to 6.5. I dont want to risk flush with high ph water I try this method in past and don't work for me.
When I add recommended dose nutes to tap water ph is 7.0 and I add little lemon juice to bring down ph 6.5.
I like idea to add oysters shells and eag shells to soiless I think I need to smash them to dust and then add directly at the top of pots right? But how much and how long need to wait before this method stabilize my ph? With baking soda, I don't know if I add to my tap water ph will hit maybe 10.0. And is baking soda is safety to my plants? And if I add at the top of the pot how much i need tea spoon to gallon?
I grow in 4 gallon pots
Thank.

 

[Seamaiden]

Ok, if your source water pH is that high, just use that to flush, don't add anything with more carbonates in it (like the oyster or egg shells). The carbonates will build up in the root zone.

Also, given what you're reporting (please remember that using these types of fertilizers is absolutely not my specialty) I find myself wondering if perhaps ammoniacal nitrogen is at least partially to blame for such a low pH coming out of the media. You might want to back off the feeding a little bit, or find another form of nitrogen such as something that uses nitrate (NO3) instead of ammonia.

 

[maimunji]

Hi good people , I want to update my threat and need some help also. Plant with rusty spot looking great I start to feed with cal mag and evetything looking good. I think cal mag is my problem. Plants just start week 5 of 12 12 and one female start to turn leaves yellow from the bottom before 2 week I dont worry but today I noticed upper leaves start to turn pale yellow also I thing N or Mg Def but I need your options thanks.