Organikz
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Just recently I came up on a gem of an interview with Clackamas and here is his current mix. I also included the way to feed this mix because it's unique in the fact that we're targeting enzymes in our feeds. Coots is also getting upset about his method not being used properly and people messaging him saying the mix sucks. The mix is awesome if you know how to drive it.
Reasons people fail this method
I start by lining the bottom 1.5" of my containers with flowerock volcanic rock for better aeration and leached nutrients get captured here and are not lost. In deeper pots like grassroots I go with 2" of rock. I recommend flowerock brand because companies like vigoro mix dyed granite and ive even heard of skeletons of coral because it has tiny dimples but we want pores not dimples. I've explained quality lava rock should have pores going all throughout.
Quality lava rock
This sounds gross to some but if you've ever wrangled worms from an old bed with Springtails biting you and jumping in your face its a cakewalk. This is how I check quality. Take a larger piece and wash all the dust off then try to blow into the rock...i know sounds funny...but you should be able to freely blow into the rock and notice it coming out of all sides of the rock via pores created while the magma cools and carbon seperates, steam is released, etc.
Base soil mix
1:1:1
PREMIUM worm castings (this is important)
Canadian SPAGNUM peat moss
Pumice 1/8-3/8 (flowerock works with help from a sledge hammer)
Amendments per cubic foot
1/2-1 cup neem/karanja cake
1 cup kelp meal
1 cup fresh ground malted barley powder
2-3 cups rock dust (if you busted your flowerock the dust left will suffice...its basalt)
1/2 cup gypsum
Biochar
I actually use uncharged biochar as half of my aeration amendment. When you water you can hear the stuff crackle as it expands. I let my soil cold cook for 2 weeks to a month and I feed it as if it has plants while I do this...why...again were feeding soil here. This will also charge biochar while in the soil.
Worms
I opt to add the worms from the start. I feel they ramp things up faster. I use a combination of red wrigglers and euro night crawlers. The wrigglers work the top and the crawlers work the bottom. Guaranteed to build humus fast. I apply a handful per 2x2. These amendments also increase metabolic rates in earthworms including reproduction.
Feeding schedule
This is no water only super soil by any means. Here's an excerpt posted by bluejay. He is another master of the no till although coots is the scientist.
"Here’s an example of a tried and true watering schedule (because I personally used it for years) to use from day 1 to ensure your plants are being pushed to ‘peak health’ and expressing their full ‘genetic potential.’:
Day 1 Plain water
Day 2 No watering
Day 3 MBP top-dress watered in with Aloe/Fulvic/Silica (agsil or your silica source of choice)
Day 4 No watering
Day 5 Plain water
Day 6 Neem/Kelp tea
Day 7 No watering
Day 8 Plain water
Day 9 No watering
Day 10 Coconut Water
Day 11 No watering
REPEAT - Beginning to end, no changes needed for various stages of growth, simple enough right?"
If you use blumat system like me you basically treat the plain waterings like no watering. When using blumat I only feed my whole 200g bed 2 gallons to avoid overwatering. I just feed at a bit more concentrated rate with coconut water. I do double the dose per gallon. For example I feed 1/2 cup of coconut water per gallon as opposed to but I feed the whole bed after targeting root zones. Coconut water benefits all soil life, not just plants however you do want to make sure the plants get some so I'll explain how I target the root zone.
I start by spraying the trunk at the soil or mulch line. This ensures the water and coconut water will run down the stem and follow along the roots like water tends to do, find the path of least resistance. Then i soak all ground under the canopy as this is where your rhizosphere is. The leftover just goes to the bed.
This also goes for fulvic/aloe/silica.
Put a cherry on top
I like to go light on amendments because I top my soil with a 2" layer of high quality compost then I top dress it per 10g with the following:
Top dress kelp meal and neem/karanja cake monthly and top dress 1/2" layer of compost or EWC between cycles.
Mulch
A number of items can be used as mulch. Mulch is vital to keep the surface of the soil moist (not wet) which is the hotbed for biological activity. It will also save a ton of water and helps keep humidity down since evaporation rates are slowed. Listed from most commonly used.
Dead mulch
End note (misc)
Never till or recycle the soil. Mulch trimmed fan leaves and other byproduct from each harvest back into the soil. The soil life builds with each cycle. You will begin to notice your soil becoming more fertile. You can stretch these inputs by 3rd cycle. For example change the feedings to every 6 days rather than 3. At this point you will get a feel for your soil solution. Kelp and neem and compost can be top dressed every other cycle. MBP does have direct effect on the plants health so I would never go more than 2 weeks without a top dress.
Reasons people fail this method
- Poor humus source (humus is a term thrown loosely in the compost world. Humus is pure carbon. Mature compost will stain your hands black if you squeeze it.
- Container too small (a 15g or larger will ensure a smooth grow if you follow the schedule. 10g works but it's a struggle.)
- Cutting corners on the feed schedule (all these inputs have their place and must be used to keep the system healthy.)
I start by lining the bottom 1.5" of my containers with flowerock volcanic rock for better aeration and leached nutrients get captured here and are not lost. In deeper pots like grassroots I go with 2" of rock. I recommend flowerock brand because companies like vigoro mix dyed granite and ive even heard of skeletons of coral because it has tiny dimples but we want pores not dimples. I've explained quality lava rock should have pores going all throughout.
Quality lava rock
This sounds gross to some but if you've ever wrangled worms from an old bed with Springtails biting you and jumping in your face its a cakewalk. This is how I check quality. Take a larger piece and wash all the dust off then try to blow into the rock...i know sounds funny...but you should be able to freely blow into the rock and notice it coming out of all sides of the rock via pores created while the magma cools and carbon seperates, steam is released, etc.
Base soil mix
1:1:1
PREMIUM worm castings (this is important)
Canadian SPAGNUM peat moss
Pumice 1/8-3/8 (flowerock works with help from a sledge hammer)
Amendments per cubic foot
1/2-1 cup neem/karanja cake
1 cup kelp meal
1 cup fresh ground malted barley powder
2-3 cups rock dust (if you busted your flowerock the dust left will suffice...its basalt)
1/2 cup gypsum
Biochar
I actually use uncharged biochar as half of my aeration amendment. When you water you can hear the stuff crackle as it expands. I let my soil cold cook for 2 weeks to a month and I feed it as if it has plants while I do this...why...again were feeding soil here. This will also charge biochar while in the soil.
Worms
I opt to add the worms from the start. I feel they ramp things up faster. I use a combination of red wrigglers and euro night crawlers. The wrigglers work the top and the crawlers work the bottom. Guaranteed to build humus fast. I apply a handful per 2x2. These amendments also increase metabolic rates in earthworms including reproduction.
Feeding schedule
This is no water only super soil by any means. Here's an excerpt posted by bluejay. He is another master of the no till although coots is the scientist.
"Here’s an example of a tried and true watering schedule (because I personally used it for years) to use from day 1 to ensure your plants are being pushed to ‘peak health’ and expressing their full ‘genetic potential.’:
Day 1 Plain water
Day 2 No watering
Day 3 MBP top-dress watered in with Aloe/Fulvic/Silica (agsil or your silica source of choice)
Day 4 No watering
Day 5 Plain water
Day 6 Neem/Kelp tea
Day 7 No watering
Day 8 Plain water
Day 9 No watering
Day 10 Coconut Water
Day 11 No watering
REPEAT - Beginning to end, no changes needed for various stages of growth, simple enough right?"
If you use blumat system like me you basically treat the plain waterings like no watering. When using blumat I only feed my whole 200g bed 2 gallons to avoid overwatering. I just feed at a bit more concentrated rate with coconut water. I do double the dose per gallon. For example I feed 1/2 cup of coconut water per gallon as opposed to but I feed the whole bed after targeting root zones. Coconut water benefits all soil life, not just plants however you do want to make sure the plants get some so I'll explain how I target the root zone.
I start by spraying the trunk at the soil or mulch line. This ensures the water and coconut water will run down the stem and follow along the roots like water tends to do, find the path of least resistance. Then i soak all ground under the canopy as this is where your rhizosphere is. The leftover just goes to the bed.
This also goes for fulvic/aloe/silica.
Put a cherry on top
I like to go light on amendments because I top my soil with a 2" layer of high quality compost then I top dress it per 10g with the following:
- 1 cup MBP per 10g
- 1.5 cup kelp meal
- 1/2 cup karanja/neem cake
Top dress kelp meal and neem/karanja cake monthly and top dress 1/2" layer of compost or EWC between cycles.
Mulch
A number of items can be used as mulch. Mulch is vital to keep the surface of the soil moist (not wet) which is the hotbed for biological activity. It will also save a ton of water and helps keep humidity down since evaporation rates are slowed. Listed from most commonly used.
Dead mulch
- Barley straw
- Alfalfa straw (I could only find hay in bales but I separated the straw and will use the leftover to make alfalfa meal)
- Pine bark mulch
- Cocoa bean shells (rinse before using. I have heard they salt it to preserve)
- Build a Soil cover crop blend (mixture nitro fixers and DA)
- Clover (nitrogen fixer)
- Ryegrass (dynamic accumulator)
- Alfalfa (DA)
- Chocolate Mint (IPM)
End note (misc)
Never till or recycle the soil. Mulch trimmed fan leaves and other byproduct from each harvest back into the soil. The soil life builds with each cycle. You will begin to notice your soil becoming more fertile. You can stretch these inputs by 3rd cycle. For example change the feedings to every 6 days rather than 3. At this point you will get a feel for your soil solution. Kelp and neem and compost can be top dressed every other cycle. MBP does have direct effect on the plants health so I would never go more than 2 weeks without a top dress.
