#Space Ace Growing basics #2

[Frankster]

Thought I would share another post: Another on my successful habits and techniques.

I know that many of the professional growers here have large grows, and big areas that their dealing with. I wish I had such an opportunity, but I make do with what I have. For me, that includes growing in my small urban place, so any space, given to plants is space I'm personally giving up (ie. living space). That said, I think its probably true for many hobby growers, space is a premium that needs to be optimized and leveraged.

That said, the following techniques, not only improve overall plant health, and create a dense growing footprint, anyone can apply these techniques to their grow to optimize resources, waste product, overall weight (ie. lifting) and increased vigor and plant health.

As I posted in the last thread on this subject (basics). Seed are incubated in napkins until fully shelled and "pop" out of their hull, then transferred (carefully) into cardboard (empty cardboard egg cartons will work) That thread can be found here: https://www.thcfarmer.com/threads/basics-planting-a-proper-sprout.113391/

Here's a start.

once the start is grown, and you can see root's peeking out from the bottom, it's time to upgrade. My go too is this: Biodegradable Non-woven Nursery Bags (100 pc. about $7)

Once the plant has grown, and the root's are peeking out again, I go to this: Fabric Plant Pots Grow Bags 2 Gallons (Can be had on ebay for around $45 for 25, or $15 for 5) Note: each layer in this picture (this is an important teaching photo, as it show's the layers, see the cardboard in the center, the fiber pot around it, and now it's root bound in it's third container) Time to upgrade, again...

If the plant gets bigger than 2 foot, onward we go: strip off the old cloth pots------->

off with the old...

Now the 3 gallon ones... (25x on ebay for $55)

And finally, if needed a 5 gallon pot: (x6 on ebay for $25)

Granted, I've got approx $100 tied up in bags, but they are simply AMAZING, made from extremely durable, reusable, and flood the root system with nothing but OXYGEN, the vital gas required for MASSIVE root growth, and metabolism!!! THIS IS A SORT OF ORGANIC/HYDRO HYBRID, mixing soil technique, with hydroponic theory.

I can complete grows in 80 to 90 days (with certain strains) using this technique, from start to finish.

What we have at the end here is a huge, solid ball of roots, much more dense, and much more developed than root's by any other method. I can't say how many times, I've put plants into a 3 or 5 gallon pot, only to have the roots move to the bottom, or ignore one part of the pot, (leaving only dirt) the plants root system MUST BE GROWN IN GRADUALLY, PERIOD. Any other method is going to end up with areas of non dense root growth....

When I take these types of plants out of their pots at the end of the growth cycle, there is simply NO wasted space, NONE. It's a massive well defined root ball, that creates the most OILY AND HUGE FLOWERS, possible, with due consideration given to genetics, light, fert regime, circulation, temp, Ph, humidity and other critical factors.

In end, its a labor of love. You either take these kinds of measures, experiment, change (and reap the benefit) or you stagnate, and never try and change anything. Some changes are big (like this one) and some are small gains. For me, every little technique I develop, brings me that closer to perfection, as I look at it more as a journey, than a destination.


Good luck with your growing fellas, Cheers!

 

[threatco]

Nice write up?

What are your thoughts on pros/cons of hydroponics on urban space conscious gardens?

 

[Aqua Man]

Thanks for contributing this @Frankster nice and thorough with pics and explanations. Well done sir

 

[BurnzYzBudZz]

Great thread for the new grower with up pot questions, happy grows.
Burnz

 

[Frankster]

Nice write up?

What are your thoughts on pros/cons of hydroponics on urban space conscious gardens?

I think hydro is a viable alternative for the urban grower. That said, I would suggest it might not be for the newer grower, or anyone without some science background, experience with exotic fish or whatnot.

Ph is a huge factor in growing. Along with sunlight, fert, circulation, gas exchanges, temps ect... And Ph is a factor that can go south quickly, among other factors such as ppm (particulate concentration) and any type of fungal/light related afflictions that are commonplace with a hydro setup. If you go for it, I would highly suggest having things such as a Water Chiller Refrigeration Unit (at minimum held in reserve) because root oxygen concentration is highly related to maintaining proper temps, (oxygen pressure in H20 decreases as heat increases) and once medium goes north of 70F bad things can happen, and the advantage of hydro is diminished.

Using proper techniques, regardless of Wicking setups, Water Culture, Ebb and Flow, (Flood & Drain), Drip (recovery or non-recovery), and Aeroponic solutions, all are very effective if proper techniques, methodology, maintenance and continual oversight of relevant variables.

While all those techniques have undeniable benefit (believe me when I say I've tried many of them) My current grow sits upon an very nice hydroponic setup, (and an ebb flow unit) and a huge refrigeration unit. I've done ebb and flow's, and I've used deep wells, and drain tables. I felt like (early on) because I have an advanced science background, and college level biochemistry, organic and inorganic chemistry, and microbiology, (each 2 full semesters over 1 year each), under my belt, that I would gain some sort of advantage using the above techniques.

I'm not denying their advantages.

That said. Over the years, the exact opposite has been true. Something about growing in the soil that I've really achieved by no other means. Soil grows, that maintain healthy metabolism, OUTSTANDING flora, microorganisms such as bacteria, mycorrhizae, actinomycetes, fungi, soil algae and soil protozoa are integral to plant vitality and growth. (ONLY WHEN THIS IS HAPPENING) Enzymes are created by these flora, and greatly facilitate growth in ways that cannot be done otherwise. Having large, medium and small size bio-molecules available in soil, such as fossilized bat guano, along with the medium and small molecules Plus (add in the enzymes) and you've got much of the work done for the plant at root level... (ie. before it's taken into the plant) This further reduces the metabolic load on the plant itself...

So there are plus and minus to each techniques, but my best weed has been created in soil, not hydro. Living here in Seattle Wa, some of the best weed in the country can be had for $100 an ounce. My friends STILL rage all about the weed I smoke or give to them, (chronics) as far superior to anything they get in the dispensary They sit around and say "my weed get's them much higher, whereas the other stuff don't get them stoned" or in the case of my friend that only smokes dabs and concentrates "your flowers still get me high".... I hear this virtually every time I see them, even with my subpar weed...


Advantages of soil:
Less maintenance
Overall better control
Soil is better IMHO. ie. "overall better quality"
Much less electricity
Easier

Advantages of hydro:
Faster product (although soil can be very quick if done correctly) ie. the above way.
variable control, micromanagement
Cleaner
Possibly bit more output sq meter.
Probably cheaper overall (but setup is more expensive).


I know some here might argue that hydro makes a superior product, but I would argue (and my experience) has been otherwise.

 

[Frankster]

Mycorrhizae form an invaluable part of ecosystems around the world, and can be found in some form or another in just about any ecosystem. In many places, whole forests and ecosystems wouldn’t exist at all without their mycorrhizal friends.

The mycelium of a single mycorrhiza can extend outward, connect multiple plants (even plants of different species!), and even connect with other mycorrhizae to form a Frankenstein-like underground mash-up called a common mycorrhizal network.

In a common mycorrhizal network, it’s hard to tell where one mycorrhiza ends and another begins. Because of this vast network, a single plant can be connected to a completely different species of plant.

Mycorrhizae actually connect to plants in two ways. One form, called ectomycorrhizae, simply surrounds the outside of the roots. Another form, called endomycorrhizae, actually grows inside of the plant—their hyphae squeeze in between the cell wall and the cell membranes of the roots (sort of like wedging themselves in between a bicycle tire and the inner tube).


How do plants help mycorrhizae?
Plants feed their own mycorrhizae. Plants will take excess sugar produced in the leaves through photosynthesis and send it to the roots. From here, the mycorrhizae are able to absorb it to sustain themselves. There is very little sunlight underground, and even if there was, the mycorrhizae wouldn’t be able to harvest it like plants because they don’t have the equipment needed for photosynthesis. The sugar from the plants literally keeps the mycorrhizae fed and alive.

How do mycorrhizae help plants?
Plants don’t give up their valuable sugar resources just for the fun of growing fungus gardens. They get a lot of things in return from the mycorrhizae, mostly in the form of nutrients.

Plants are able to get nutrients themselves through their roots, but they have a limited ability to do so. Their roots need to be in direct contact with the soil to absorb the nutrients, and plant roots only grow so small. Fungi, on the other hand, can get much smaller. Fungal hyphae can wedge in between individual bits of soil to cover almost every available cubic millimeter of soil. This increases surface area and allows the plants much greater access to nutrients than they could get by themselves. Plants living under difficult conditions, they wouldn’t be able to survive at all without mycorrhizae.

The mycorrhizae absorb nutrients such as phosphorus and magnesium and bring it directly to the plant roots. Here, they exchange the nutrients they’ve collected for some sugar. It’s a fair trade, and both sides benefit.

Additionally, the mycorrhizae help plants out in a whole bunch of other ways. Mycorrhizae can help protect their plants against diseases and toxins. Mycorrhizae can also serve as a sugar delivery service when plants shuttle sugar back and forth to different plants connected to the same common mycorrhizal network.

 

[Frankster]

It's all about the root's fellas, IMHO. Healthy root's make healthy, highly productive plants...

Regardless if that's achieved though hydroponic, aeroponics, or traditional dirt, ROOT HEALTH is at the core of plant productivity.