Spider Mites

[GT21]

Natural gas.

...is way better than sulfer

 

[Gettnpacksin]

All of those chemicals are single-site mode of action miticides, and are known to cause resistance, some more quickly than others. Azamax/Azatrol are known not to, as taught to me by babaG here on the farm. They also typically require a good bit of personal protective gear to be applied safely.

I've used it, and was unimpressed between the cost and the difficulty in getting some oils into an emulsion. Frankly, the iso method I prefer is what I've ended up using much more often and stick to now, especially since I was sending my trim to a friend for extracts. He does NOT want other plant essential oils in the mix (especially neem). Btw, SNS 217 *is* essential oils (and emulsifiers).

I've reverse engineered the SNS 217C. It's ok. I prefer using a mix of 1:1 iso:water applied every 2-3 days for two weeks.

Spraying with pH'd water won't do a thing to the mites, but it's effective for killing the fruiting bodies of powdery mildew.[/QU
@Seamaiden could you elaborate a little more on the ISO? My trimmings and smaller flowers will be sent to a friend for extracting oils also. Any specific isopropyl percentage? Do you mix with pH water? Application schedule? will this effect my normal watering and feeding schedule?

 

[Gettnpacksin]

@Seamaiden could you elaborate a little more on the ISO? My trimmings and smaller flowers will be sent to a friend for extracting oils also. Any specific isopropyl percentage? Do you mix with pH water? Application schedule? will this effect my normal watering and feeding schedule?

 

[Seamaiden]

I use whatever I can find in the market, sometimes it's hard to find the 91% iso. It's mixed 1:1, though I have been told by others who use it that they can go as low as 1T/gal of water. Don't worry about pHing it, but do worry about ensuring thorough coverage. Applied every 2-3 days (hatching schedule, depends on temperature. Warmer=more often) for two weeks. Hit the pots as well as the stalks, take care *not* to saturate the soil or you'll kill the plant. Easy enough, a piece of paper or a shopping bag placed over the soil can do the trick.

The iso is applied as a foliar, directly to the leaves/mites.

 

[tinderthumbs]

stuff works great and its cheap think I got it at ace hardwhare

 

[DrMcSkunkins]

Interesting story about the spinosad bacteria used in captain jacks deadbug brew and other spinosad containing pesticides. The bacteria was discovered in old whiskey barrels in 1985, Marty.

 

[Gettnpacksin]

I use whatever I can find in the market, sometimes it's hard to find the 91% iso. It's mixed 1:1, though I have been told by others who use it that they can go as low as 1T/gal of water. Don't worry about pHing it, but do worry about ensuring thorough coverage. Applied every 2-3 days (hatching schedule, depends on temperature. Warmer=more often) for two weeks. Hit the pots as well as the stalks, take care *not* to saturate the soil or you'll kill the plant. Easy enough, a piece of paper or a shopping bag placed over the soil can do the trick.

The iso is applied as a foliar, directly to the leaves/mites.

Thank-you I believe our local Kinney drugs has 70-99% ISO. So I will be sending it over to the store after this to grab some. as for mixing is that 1 cup to 1 gallon or 1 bottle to 1 gallon? Sorry haven't had much experience in mixing

 

[Gettnpacksin]

I use whatever I can find in the market, sometimes it's hard to find the 91% iso. It's mixed 1:1, though I have been told by others who use it that they can go as low as 1T/gal of water. Don't worry about pHing it, but do worry about ensuring thorough coverage. Applied every 2-3 days (hatching schedule, depends on temperature. Warmer=more often) for two weeks. Hit the pots as well as the stalks, take care *not* to saturate the soil or you'll kill the plant. Easy enough, a piece of paper or a shopping bag placed over the soil can do the trick.

The iso is applied as a foliar, directly to the leaves/mites.[/QUOT

So it is ok to use the ISO as a preventative?

 

[cemchris]

I use whatever I can find in the market, sometimes it's hard to find the 91% iso. It's mixed 1:1, though I have been told by others who use it that they can go as low as 1T/gal of water. Don't worry about pHing it, but do worry about ensuring thorough coverage. Applied every 2-3 days (hatching schedule, depends on temperature. Warmer=more often) for two weeks. Hit the pots as well as the stalks, take care *not* to saturate the soil or you'll kill the plant. Easy enough, a piece of paper or a shopping bag placed over the soil can do the trick.

The iso is applied as a foliar, directly to the leaves/mites.

Do you use a wetting agent like coco-wet or soap?

 

[tinderthumbs]

Interesting story about the spinosad bacteria used in captain jacks deadbug brew and other spinosad containing pesticides. The bacteria was discovered in old whiskey barrels in 1985, Marty.
QUOTE]

its still only found on that island ??

 

[OldPine]

Loving all the responses. I think I will try azamax sm90 and Einstein oil? I watched a few grow journals and seen them using this mixture. Any inputs on these products are greatly appreciated

A while back you mentioned using SM90. I just wanted to chime in that I have been using it for some time and (knock on wood) have never had spider mites. I can't claim it's directly due to the SM90, but I continue to use it as a preventative with (seemingly) great success.

 

[OldPine]

Do you use a wetting agent like coco-wet or soap?

Also, cemchris asked if you're planning on using a wetting agent.

An added benefit of SM90 is that it is a wetting agent, so this will help too.

 

[Gettnpacksin]

Also, cemchris asked if you're planning on using a wetting agent.

An added benefit of SM90 is that it is a wetting agent, so this will help too.

Hey @OldPine, yeah I have seen alot of people using sm90 along with azamax and Einstein oil. So I was kind of leaning that way but then @Seamaiden brought up mixing isopropyl and water due to the oils the others leave behind if sending trimmings and other to be used for extracting oils. I'm pretty torn as to which way to go. My whole purpose is to find a preventative which I can apply without needing a master's degree in pesticide training haha. As for wetting agent I'm not sure exactly what that is. So I'm assuming I'm not using one??

 

[JSmokes420]

Hey @OldPine, yeah I have seen alot of people using sm90 along with azamax and Einstein oil. So I was kind of leaning that way but then @Seamaiden brought up mixing isopropyl and water due to the oils the others leave behind if sending trimmings and other to be used for extracting oils. I'm pretty torn as to which way to go. My whole purpose is to find a preventative which I can apply without needing a master's degree in pesticide training haha. As for wetting agent I'm not sure exactly what that is. So I'm assuming I'm not using one??

Yukka Extract is primary wetting tool in most formulas. You can buy it cheap in bulk online. Nonscented dish soap works too

 

[edaisson]

After discussing with my extracts friend, after doing a cost comparison of essential oils vs the iso, it was a pretty easy choice for me in this specific scenario. I'm not hating on them, not at all, in fact I'm a fan of using the essential oils in many areas. It's also a good deal easier to get mixed since it doesn't require an emulsifier.

That rotation is key, but, and this is a huge but if you live in an area that already has mites that are resistant to any one of them, it's super easy to achieve resistant mites. They're practically built for it. The only crop I've lost was to root aphids, didn't know what they were until it was far too late. Let me find some papers for you discussing miticide resistance. They are known to develop resistance to multiple miticides, which leads to further problems. If I could ask you, if you see them again, would you be willing to do a side by side since you're already making an application every 3 days? Do the isopropyl:water (1:1) on however many plants you're willing, and then your usual treatment.

I ask this because we've already been seeing mites in SoCal that are resistant to Forbid4F and Floramite.

http://anrcatalog.ucanr.edu/pdf/8033.pdf

http://msue.anr.msu.edu/news/how_to_handle_resistant_spider_mites_in_your_greenhouse

http://aginfotoday.com/News/Miticid...ider-Mite--6-Management-Tips-2016-09-19/15247

I just lost a whole crop to root aphids. Like you, I didn't know about them until it was too late.

How do you get rid of them for good? My grow room is tidy clean, got rid of the old crop. Brought new one in. Been using neem oil, sns217 and mighty wash. But the little fuckers are back with a vengeance.

I need them gone. Will AVID suffice?

 

[EventHorizan]

I just lost a whole crop to root aphids. Like you, I didn't know about them until it was too late.

How do you get rid of them for good? My grow room is tidy clean, got rid of the old crop. Brought new one in. Been using neem oil, sns217 and mighty wash. But the little fuckers are back with a vengeance.

I need them gone. Will AVID suffice?

Hey if you can get a pic of one of them... Even a smashed one will work.. I'm wondering if I have aphids or fruit flies...
Where the fickle these things originate from...

 

[JSmokes420]

I just lost a whole crop to root aphids. Like you, I didn't know about them until it was too late.

How do you get rid of them for good? My grow room is tidy clean, got rid of the old crop. Brought new one in. Been using neem oil, sns217 and mighty wash. But the little fuckers are back with a vengeance.

I need them gone. Will AVID suffice?

Sns 217 is for spider mites. Sns 203 is for root aphids fyi.....not that I'm a huge believer in natural remedies.

That said the chemical solution that will kill them for real is Merit75 or Met52. Can be found on ebay

 

[DrMcSkunkins]

Spinosad root drench followed by a neem drench 10 days later

 

[Sunbaked]

you can buy captain jacks in a concentrate and save a bunch of money. great stuff. It's what the Amish use.

 

[CaliRay]

Greetings farmer's . I don't understand why is it that when someone is dealing with some type of mite or bug problem ,the first thing people recommend is avid , forbid sc??? yes these products work but why not educate people on the many other products that are affective an less harsh. Such as pfr 97 or grandevo both of these products will deal with any mite issue, including russet mites or broad mites. They don't say on the labels that they are affective against them but they are. Use both mention products in an infected plants leaf and put it under a scope. See for yourself.