The Righ Way To Run A Dehumidifier For A Sealed Room

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Judaz

Judaz

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Many of you have seen this image of ideal temps and humidity for growing cannabis but when it comes to growing in sealed rooms that are enriched with co2 you may as well throw away all the stuff that you find in the books and recommended across the web.

First of all having a dehumidifier in a sealed room is a must. Things can get real moist quick especially in the dark cycle. When I first started growing in sealed room I would set the dehumidifier to the recommended setting for flowering cannabis usually around 55% and even lower in late flowering to run on continous mode and hold this humidity. It works, don’t get me wrong but you may not be maximizing your yield and results like this. Why because a sealed room with co2 enrichment usually runs in the mid 80’s and not in the mid 70’s. I used to wonder why my nugs when grown in air exchanged environments always got bigger than my nugs with co2 enriched environments. Atleast in size not in weight. That was until I tweaked the way I use dehumidifiers in a sealed room.

What did I do different? Is that I started shutting them down completely during my lights on cycle. If you got a room brain controller then even better but if you don’t. Just shut it off especially the first 5 weeks. Absolutely no need for them unless you are trying to control powdery mildew. What did this do. Well it increased my humidity to the high 60’s low 70’s when my temps were between 82-85. After that I never looked back and started growing with high humidity in sealed rooms. The nugs and plant growth exploded. Best yields growing og Kush. Record breakers. Hitting over 3.5 a light sometime 3.8 a light. Why? Because of the importance of vapor pressure deficit. By letting the humidity get to those levels with the lights on and lowering down to 55-60% when the lights were off my plants flourished. No pm whatsoeve. Even with the lights off having 75% humidity levels when my ac broke down on a hot summer night where the temps were 85-90. The right way to grow in a sealed room is to start with co2 and high temps mid 80’s but keeping the humidity high too between 70-75% during first 3 weeks, then 65-70 % for weeks 4-5 60-65 week 6, 50-55 % week 7, 40-45% week 8-9 if you don’t do this your buds will get huge continue spitting white hairs and won’t crystallize properly. As you cut the humidity also start to cut your temps a bit from mid 80’s weeks 1-5, high 70’s weeks 6-7 to mid 70’s weeks 8-9 when the lights are on. And when lights are off you cut too in proportion maintaining, 5 degree differential, 1st 5 weeks to a higher differential in the latter weeks usually 10-15 degrees to promote extre crystallization.

What you are doing is controlling the way your plants uptake nutes. By controlling the vpd of the environment. You can read up on the science but in laymen terms what this does is allow you to steer your plants the right way to bring our desired type of growth that is needed for maximizing yield and resin production that is dependent on their timeline within their 8-9 week cycle.

I’m fact raising the humidity allows you to give more nutes to your plants and raise the EC to support the accelerated growth. You need to listen to your plants when it comes to EC levels. Given that you have your npk ratios dialed in for the given weeks the EC game is pretty simple. Try to keep the ppm in and ppm out runoff at balance. And your plants will always be happy. I start high weeks 1-4 and slowly bring it down the latter weeks. I don’t follow those bs feed schedule from nute companies that look like a bell shaped curve that tell you to peak in weeks 5/6/7 They are BS making you use way more than you need to at the wrong point in time. I let ppm out spike no more than 250 ppm from the in. The recirculated solution ppm in is constant day after day until the spikes occur.

In fact my plants tell me when they want the nutes to go down. Always Sometime in week 5 I get a spike in EC even when I lower them ppm in it keeps going up. It’s time for a power flush and a lower EC for the next feed.
 
The righ way to run a dehumidifier for a sealed room
Last edited:
Judaz

Judaz

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Some added info on my latest experiences with this technique. By messing with the amount of dehumidifiers like off all dehumidifiers and turning only 1 of 2 on in the rooms during light cycles, I've been able to move my humidity to different levels.

Room Environment:

I've been doing some controlled expirements in the last 3 months. Over last 3 months I've over seen 12 closed system flowering rooms using the same og strain from the 90's that I've been running for the last 18 years. Rooms enriched with CO2 and Temps in the low to mid 80's and humidity ranging between 65%-75% during the light on cycle. Temps around 75 and Humdity 55%-60% in the dark cycle. All similar environments except for small changes in temps and humidity over the different rooms. RO water.

Observed Results:

Rooms that ran with humidity on the lower side 65% and temps in low 80's for first 5 weeks. And humidity and temps dropping over time 55-45% and 82-75 for last 4 weeks.

Scenario A


-Quality and Thrichome production better
-Bud size and overall yield down from 3.0-3.2 a light to around 2.5 - 2.75 per 1000 watt Gavita light.
-Aroma of final product stronger
-Denser nugs
-To sum the results Best Quality over Good Quantity


Scenario B


Rooms that ran with humidity closer to 75% for first 5 weeks and temps in mid 80's. And humidity and temps dropping over time 65-55% and 85-78 for last 4 weeks.

-Thrichome production not to my standard for my og strain.
-Bud size much bigger overall dense nugs but not as dense as Scenario A. Final weight range, 3.0-3.2 with a high in 1 room 3.5
-Aroma of final product, a little different than what I'm used to and not so pungent.
To sum the results Best Quantity over Good Quality

NOTE: Been doing my research on the importance of chelates that improve and speed up nutrients especially in the last few weeks of flower. And the rooms that used about 8 ml per gallon versus 3-4 ml per gallon of humic acid did better overall in final weight. For Scenario A, the rooms using the higher humic acid levels hit around 2.75 versus the ones with lower humic acid per gallong hit around 2.5 per 1000 watt gavita Pro. The rooms in scenario B that hit on the higher side of the pound per light range also used the higher amount of humic acid over the latter weeks.
 
Last edited:
Judaz

Judaz

476
93
One observation that I've had when running a sealed room like this, with dehumidifiers off when lights are on. Is that the plants seem to control their transpiration rate to an ideal state whenever you are running your nutes right. For example, my room will hover around 70% humidity when lights are on naturally assuming that the canopy is filled in for the room size and your plants are happy. When the humidity starts to drop as ive noticed it dipping into the low 60's and high 50's. And I noticed this would happen when the plants where starting to get over fertilized. This is now an early signal for me that I must flush or dilute my solution to bring the ec down to an acceptable range. This will usually happen before any leaf tip or burn happens.
 
EventHorizan

EventHorizan

15,707
438
One observation that I've had when running a sealed room like this, with dehumidifiers off when lights are on. Is that the plants seem to control their transpiration rate to an ideal state whenever you are running your nutes right. For example, my room will hover around 70% humidity when lights are on naturally assuming that the canopy is filled in for the room size and your plants are happy. When the humidity starts to drop as ive noticed it dipping into the low 60's and high 50's. And I noticed this would happen when the plants where starting to get over fertilized. This is now an early signal for me that I must flush or dilute my solution to bring the ec down to an acceptable range. This will usually happen before any leaf tip or burn happens.
very interesting! I think I might tag behind you and see what morsels 0f info I might read!
 
GT21

GT21

I like soup
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Preview
Many of you have seen this image of ideal temps and humidity for growing cannabis but when it comes to growing in sealed rooms that are enriched with co2 you may as well throw away all the stuff that you find in the books and recommended across the web.

First of all having a dehumidifier in a sealed room is a must. Things can get real moist quick especially in the dark cycle. When I first started growing in sealed room I would set the dehumidifier to the recommended setting for flowering cannabis usually around 55% and even lower in late flowering to run on continous mode and hold this humidity. It works, don’t get me wrong but you may not be maximizing your yield and results like this. Why because a sealed room with co2 enrichment usually runs in the mid 80’s and not in the mid 70’s. I used to wonder why my nugs when grown in air exchanged environments always got bigger than my nugs with co2 enriched environments. Atleast in size not in weight. That was until I tweaked the way I use dehumidifiers in a sealed room.

What did I do different? Is that I started shutting them down completely during my lights on cycle. If you got a room brain controller then even better but if you don’t. Just shut it off especially the first 5 weeks. Absolutely no need for them unless you are trying to control powdery mildew. What did this do. Well it increased my humidity to the high 60’s low 70’s when my temps were between 82-85. After that I never looked back and started growing with high humidity in sealed rooms. The nugs and plant growth exploded. Best yields growing og Kush. Record breakers. Hitting over 3.5 a light sometime 3.8 a light. Why? Because of the importance of vapor pressure deficit. By letting the humidity get to those levels with the lights on and lowering down to 55-60% when the lights were off my plants flourished. No pm whatsoeve. Even with the lights off having 75% humidity levels when my ac broke down on a hot summer night where the temps were 85-90. The right way to grow in a sealed room is to start with co2 and high temps mid 80’s but keeping the humidity high too between 70-75% during first 3 weeks, then 65-70 % for weeks 4-5 60-65 week 6, 50-55 % week 7, 40-45% week 8-9 if you don’t do this your buds will get huge continue spitting white hairs and won’t crystallize properly. As you cut the humidity also start to cut your temps a bit from mid 80’s weeks 1-5, high 70’s weeks 6-7 to mid 70’s weeks 8-9 when the lights are on. And when lights are off you cut too in proportion maintaining, 5 degree differential, 1st 5 weeks to a higher differential in the latter weeks usually 10-15 degrees to promote extre crystallization.

What you are doing is controlling the way your plants uptake nutes. By controlling the vpd of the environment. You can read up on the science but in laymen terms what this does is allow you to steer your plants the right way to bring our desired type of growth that is needed for maximizing yield and resin production that is dependent on their timeline within their 8-9 week cycle.

I’m fact raising the humidity allows you to give more nutes to your plants and raise the EC to support the accelerated growth. You need to listen to your plants when it comes to EC levels. Given that you have your npk ratios dialed in for the given weeks the EC game is pretty simple. Try to keep the ppm in and ppm out runoff at balance. And your plants will always be happy. I start high weeks 1-4 and slowly bring it down the latter weeks. I don’t follow those bs feed schedule from nute companies that look like a bell shaped curve that tell you to peak in weeks 5/6/7 They are BS making you use way more than you need to at the wrong point in time. I let ppm out spike no more than 250 ppm from the in. The recirculated solution ppm in is constant day after day until the spikes occur.

In fact my plants tell me when they want the nutes to go down. Always Sometime in week 5 I get a spike in EC even when I lower them ppm in it keeps going up. It’s time for a power flush and a lower EC for the next feed.
I wonder what people do in the desert hahahah vpd
 
N

nicolajanjak

139
43
yes but about the last paragraph? i never heard a thing like this before

i always start a 1.9/2.0 mS during stretch and peak around week 5 with 2.5/2.6mS and a bit of pk boost.

but am i wrong ? maybe i give too much
 
Judaz

Judaz

476
93
I peak at around week 5 too on a 9 week strain never going above 2.6 ec on the runoff. Note I mean the runoff because depending on the medium you are growing with especially if on rockwool cubes with different cubic root mass space.

yes but about the last paragraph? i never heard a thing like this before

i always start a 1.9/2.0 mS during stretch and peak around week 5 with 2.5/2.6mS and a bit of pk boost.

but am i wrong ? maybe i give too much
 
N

nicolajanjak

139
43
Hi

I would like to correct the Bulls hit i tôld few times ago.

Now imo dtw is superior to other techniques
Why ?
Because we can precisely measure the drain

So here is the right way to feed

If drain EC>feed EC you need to lower the EC
And pH go down!!

If drain EC< feed EC plants are Hungry

If you feed right ;
Ec feed=Ec drain
With a bit higher ph for the drain.
Its the sweet spot

If you do like it you never go over 1,5 ms. With 0.5 water

Stop your overfed buds and endless flushings for some greyish ash

Its the superior Way to do Imo
And in sealed room i think hugo blocks and homemade irrigation is the way to do

Excuse my bad english
Peace farmers
 
N

nicolajanjak

139
43
And if you are in flood and drain and the pH fall down in the res you are probably overfeeding
Or roots rooting...)
Correct me if im wrong
 
A

adibso

1
1
Farmer Community
Preview
Many of you have seen this image of ideal temps and humidity for growing cannabis but when it comes to growing in sealed rooms that are enriched with co2 you may as well throw away all the stuff that you find in the books and recommended across the web.

First of all having a dehumidifier in a sealed room is a must. Things can get real moist quick especially in the dark cycle. When I first started growing in sealed room I would set the dehumidifier to the recommended setting for flowering cannabis usually around 55% and even lower in late flowering to run on continous mode and hold this humidity. It works, don’t get me wrong but you may not be maximizing your yield and results like this. Why because a sealed room with co2 enrichment usually runs in the mid 80’s and not in the mid 70’s. I used to wonder why my nugs when grown in air exchanged environments always got bigger than my nugs with co2 enriched environments. Atleast in size not in weight. That was until I tweaked the way I use dehumidifiers in a sealed room.

What did I do different? Is that I started shutting them down completely during my lights on cycle. If you got a room brain controller then even better but if you don’t. Just shut it off especially the first 5 weeks. Absolutely no need for them unless you are trying to control powdery mildew. What did this do. Well it increased my humidity to the high 60’s low 70’s when my temps were between 82-85. After that I never looked back and started growing with high humidity in sealed rooms. The nugs and plant growth exploded. Best yields growing og Kush. Record breakers. Hitting over 3.5 a light sometime 3.8 a light. Why? Because of the importance of vapor pressure deficit. By letting the humidity get to those levels with the lights on and lowering down to 55-60% when the lights were off my plants flourished. No pm whatsoeve. Even with the lights off having 75% humidity levels when my ac broke down on a hot summer night where the temps were 85-90. The right way to grow in a sealed room is to start with co2 and high temps mid 80’s but keeping the humidity high too between 70-75% during first 3 weeks, then 65-70 % for weeks 4-5 60-65 week 6, 50-55 % week 7, 40-45% week 8-9 if you don’t do this your buds will get huge continue spitting white hairs and won’t crystallize properly. As you cut the humidity also start to cut your temps a bit from mid 80’s weeks 1-5, high 70’s weeks 6-7 to mid 70’s weeks 8-9 when the lights are on. And when lights are off you cut too in proportion maintaining, 5 degree differential, 1st 5 weeks to a higher differential in the latter weeks usually 10-15 degrees to promote extre crystallization.

What you are doing is controlling the way your plants uptake nutes. By controlling the vpd of the environment. You can read up on the science but in laymen terms what this does is allow you to steer your plants the right way to bring our desired type of growth that is needed for maximizing yield and resin production that is dependent on their timeline within their 8-9 week cycle.

I’m fact raising the humidity allows you to give more nutes to your plants and raise the EC to support the accelerated growth. You need to listen to your plants when it comes to EC levels. Given that you have your npk ratios dialed in for the given weeks the EC game is pretty simple. Try to keep the ppm in and ppm out runoff at balance. And your plants will always be happy. I start high weeks 1-4 and slowly bring it down the latter weeks. I don’t follow those bs feed schedule from nute companies that look like a bell shaped curve that tell you to peak in weeks 5/6/7 They are BS making you use way more than you need to at the wrong point in time. I let ppm out spike no more than 250 ppm from the in. The recirculated solution ppm in is constant day after day until the spikes occur.

In fact my plants tell me when they want the nutes to go down. Always Sometime in week 5 I get a spike in EC even when I lower them ppm in it keeps going up. It’s time for a power flush and a lower EC for the next feed.
Hello Mr. judaz
i was hoping if i could pick your brain abit and get some advice. please and thank you
my setup is also closed system -soil(promix)+perlite(25%)- 20 x1000w HPS- co2- growing death bubba . 2x anden 210 dehus.
i was wondering what E.C should i run from wk 1-5 of flower? and how much should i bring it down wk by wk?
also i feed feed water i basically flush once a week, my E.C is around 2.2 wk1 of flower now and i basically feed 2.2 e.c twice then i flush ( with Calmag) . my plants drink every other day . with soil is very hard to keep the run off close to my run in E.C. I've been struggling with that so i was wondering if you could give me some advice on that please. should i cut my second feed in half and run it thru depending on run off?.
any advice would be appreciate it . also what do you think of my feed schedule that i uploaded I'm following your temp and humidity method i was hoping if you could give me advice on my E.c and co2 and other things that you would thing would help.
Feed chart  x

in my last run i had a very good quality running (wk1-5) temp 75 /humidity(40-50) wk1-5. then slowly bring temp and humidity down to temp 70 , humidity 40%. and last two weeks usually i keep it around temp66 humidity 35-40 which makes my buds purple and very frosty. but having said that my yield and bud size wasnt very good. so im going to try your temp and humidity this run and see how it turns out :).
 
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P

PahPahCee

345
93
Pretty subjective information in here. Vpd chasing is a good idea. The ideal vpd is cultivar dependent. What works in your environment will not work is every environment. What works for one cultivar will not always work for another.
 
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