THE TRAINWRECK. Brought to you by thcfarrmer…..

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Leoman

Leoman

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Installed an Android radio last night and it sounds like total garbage. Probably because it was only $100. lol

Now I'm driving around with no radio or heater controls until I find one that works. The fucking big name brands (Sony, Alpine, etc.) are like $300 minimum and then you have to buy a $200+ installation kit because they don't come with the trim or wiring to hook it up. Not sure if anyone's messed with that.
 
donkanaille94

donkanaille94

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i know i said amazon light, but i technically ordered it off ebay. Was $23.99 free shipping. No promises on driver quality or how long itll last. I tend to buy cheapo lights and just put better capacitors and bridge diodes in the driver to avoid issues.


A lot of these dirt cheap lights will blow a driver on you within a couple months, but they do perform as well as anything more expensive in my experience, they all use great LED chips.


*I do not recommend buying LED panels that are this cheap unless you know your way around a multimeter and soldering iron* lasting Duration of quality starts at about $50 with the roughly 100w panels as they come stock. Anything less will likely require repair within a few months if you dont pre-emptively upgrade the filter caps and ac/dc rectifier in the driver.
It says 1000 Watts but is about ~100w, often less. But it looks nice, not like the Temu/Amazon ones.

(Cant remember how they scam you exactly, but 1000w for 28.74? I dont know mate
 
Thatoneguyyouknow_

Thatoneguyyouknow_

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It says 1000 Watts but is about ~100w, often less. But it looks nice, not like the Temu/Amazon ones.

(Cant remember how they scam you exactly, but 1000w for 28.74? I dont know mate
1000w incandescent equivalent.


Thats how cheap lights have always been marketed for long as i can remember lol.


The most expensive part of a light is a quality driver, the rest is just LED's and sheet metal. costs pennies in bulk. A quality driver these do not come with at all.
 
Thatoneguyyouknow_

Thatoneguyyouknow_

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@donkanaille94 i run all my LED's panels off single high wattage high quality switch mode power supplies while using them in flower, panels all run parallel from high wattage source.. i dont use the drivers that come with these, i buy the panels for the led's on them.

i use them if i upgrade the components. You get the same samsung and osram diodes on all these lights now

itd be as unwise for me to NOT purchase a light like this one, as it would probably be unwise for you to purchase it.

You have to know exactly how this tech works and is marketed to not accidentally fleece yourself at the cheap end.
 
Thatoneguyyouknow_

Thatoneguyyouknow_

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@donkanaille94


I have this ScrOg tent under two $22 Amazon lights. But im running them from a high quality switch mode supply in parallel atm


I'm expecting close to a Lb by finish from the two panels. 154w draw and 128w output according to the multimeter and a little math.

IMG 20250324 171443040

IMG 20250324 171449704




i think i actually like these two panels together more then the two phlizon panels in flower tent 2 tbh. Difference is marginal at best though. Pretty insignificant far as end results go. But this tent cost me less then half to put together what the phlizon tent did and i think itll just edge out the phlizon tent, and will do so on 20w less power to boot.
 
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Mikedin

Mikedin

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Trying out a new panel the gives me much curiosity. 85w each. Remote driver. Very low profile. And a switch that doubles up the deep red

View attachment 2402113


Kinda wanna use one of these paired with one of the new super white pl1000s in a single tent.
My pl1000 is the 2024 version but only about 4 months old or so I think it’s the newest model, I wanna get another one so I can use them to put above pots that are being cover cropped I plan to rotate back and forth between the 2 tent I think, gunna see if I can time it out right for what I wanna do, really any options are available

Hell if I pick up another pl1000 or something else I could just flower in my 2x4 as well. Kinda cool knowing I’ve got set up to the point I can try most anything in *most* common size tents 2x2x3 (shorty), 2x4x5, 3x3x6, 4x4x7, 4x8x7

Too much work to run em all lol
 
FloridaMike

FloridaMike

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Well… plan on this run is I’m hunting mains, most of any smaller stuff won’t be kept, I’m fairly nimble when I need to be I clean em from underneath, I want to have even spacing if I can for uniformity, we’ll see how it turns out

I’m not a weight hunter 👊👊
When I start back up in the fall, I'll prolly ditch the tents & go with a whole room setup. It'll have a 4'x9' footprint with 360 access & go all the way to the ceiling. I'll be able to easily raise & lower the lights for some lower wattage growing, plus be able to actually work on them unimpeded. I'm still brain storming how to build a trellis for it, in the past I used dowel rods & zip ties.

I am a weight hunter, I need to be able to produce enuff meds to last the summer, it's 91 fn degrees out already w/ only 13% rh 💪💪
 
Mikedin

Mikedin

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When I start back up in the fall, I'll prolly ditch the tents & go with a whole room setup. It'll have a 4'x9' footprint with 360 access & go all the way to the ceiling. I'll be able to easily raise & lower the lights for some lower wattage growing, plus be able to actually work on them unimpeded. I'm still brain storming how to build a trellis for it, in the past I used dowel rods & zip ties.

I am a weight hunter, I need to be able to produce enuff meds to last the summer, it's 91 fn degrees out already w/ only 13% rh 💪💪
Forgot to say no all my tents only have front access so I’m fairly used to reaching through and crawling under, it’s usually only twice a run during the drool as after both nets are put in, before the 2nd net goes in its key to defol then lay em in, let em stretch, around day 20-24 clear between the nets only leaving nodes you want to develop, I usually let it go about 4” below the top net depending on how much the stretch is and remove everything below that
 

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