M
mrdizzle
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you will like this mix buddy, they blow up with the frequent waterings
This album is dedicated to all the haters and nay sayers ... 12 Plant 16K
you will like this mix buddy, they blow up with the frequent waterings
DrCALIGREENTHUM
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Bump :winking0067:
Mr.GoodCat
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Here is what I got going on now ... I have the 50/50 mix of coco/hydroton and some different size smart pots, 15, 20 and 25 to see whats up. I also changed the light configuration like I said before. Can't wait to see how this goes ... I am digging the medium though. I think I will flip soon.
St3ve
- 561
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holy shit.. that is gonna blow.. up
El Cerebro
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Nice open room, bet it's easy working in there. I'd add a bunch more fans. And maybe lower the lights a bit? What's your watering frequency so far?
Mr.GoodCat
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That's what I am thinking.
Why add a bunch more fans so the bulbs can blow all over the place? I have 10 wall mount fans and 3 intake / exhaust fans, you just can't see all of them because of the camera angle. And as far as lowering the light they are vegging right now ...... you ever grown in a vert room this size?
Tobor the 8th Man
Supporter
- 2,500
- 163
Hey Goodcat. That room is totally freaking awesome guy. HOLY CRAP!!!!! Every room you have ever shown just reeks of professionalism. They are always clean and high tech and your plants always are so healthy looking. You do have a green thumb for sure.
IMHO if the straight sides of the bulbs are over the tops of the plants then most of the light is going straight out and across the tops of the plants. The tapered end does not shine light down like a flashlight.
I will say that almost every vert grow seems to have the light above the plant more than I would do but they all crush it in their big vert rooms. It doesn't make sense to me though so that is why I think it is a valid question.
The light chart that shows the light coming out of a build has all the light shooting out the straight areas of the bulb not any coming out the tapered end.
What the hell am I missing??
IMHO if the straight sides of the bulbs are over the tops of the plants then most of the light is going straight out and across the tops of the plants. The tapered end does not shine light down like a flashlight.
I will say that almost every vert grow seems to have the light above the plant more than I would do but they all crush it in their big vert rooms. It doesn't make sense to me though so that is why I think it is a valid question.
The light chart that shows the light coming out of a build has all the light shooting out the straight areas of the bulb not any coming out the tapered end.
What the hell am I missing??
El Cerebro
- 1,197
- 113
Sorry, just saw the two, 10 on the walls sounds about right. No, only half that size. I'd still lower the lights but that's just me..
dankworth
- 1,519
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Until there is a shit-ton of foliage to absorb the light, and given that all of the surfaces we can see in there except the smartpots are reflective, you have to keep the lamps that high to not overlight the specimens.
Because you can't run all the lamps at once when they are that size, you will piss them off. So you have to run only some lamps. And if the lamps were too low, it would serve to illuminate the room far less evenly. Part of the strategy of keeping the lamps that high is to even out the illumination in the room. That is what my experience with vert taught me, anyways.
I saw a pic in a thread on this site a year or two ago about lamps. It showed how irradiance off of a 1k hps was at maximum at a 90 degree angle to the arc tube(perpendicular) , dropping down to right around 50%, maybe just under 50%, at a 45 degree angle to the arc tube.
Until the plants have enough foliage to absorb light, and eat high enough ppms to process that much light, it is counterproductive to add too much light too early. They will get pissed and stall, and it takes up time getting them to recover.
I went to overhead lighting and scrogs, I feel that I can get more production per ft2 out of my room that way vs vert, as I am limited on space. But veg time is longer than in vert like this. I wonder sometimes if underlighting large enough scrogged specimens would be worth it, get 2 planes of growth, more results/ft2 maybe that way. Trying to keep up with the big vert kids with their 4 planes of growth due to the 4 sources of light.
Mr. Goodcat, your work makes me think of going back to vert sometimes. Thanks for putting up your thread so we can learn from it. Some cool cool shit.
Because you can't run all the lamps at once when they are that size, you will piss them off. So you have to run only some lamps. And if the lamps were too low, it would serve to illuminate the room far less evenly. Part of the strategy of keeping the lamps that high is to even out the illumination in the room. That is what my experience with vert taught me, anyways.
I saw a pic in a thread on this site a year or two ago about lamps. It showed how irradiance off of a 1k hps was at maximum at a 90 degree angle to the arc tube(perpendicular) , dropping down to right around 50%, maybe just under 50%, at a 45 degree angle to the arc tube.
Until the plants have enough foliage to absorb light, and eat high enough ppms to process that much light, it is counterproductive to add too much light too early. They will get pissed and stall, and it takes up time getting them to recover.
I went to overhead lighting and scrogs, I feel that I can get more production per ft2 out of my room that way vs vert, as I am limited on space. But veg time is longer than in vert like this. I wonder sometimes if underlighting large enough scrogged specimens would be worth it, get 2 planes of growth, more results/ft2 maybe that way. Trying to keep up with the big vert kids with their 4 planes of growth due to the 4 sources of light.
Mr. Goodcat, your work makes me think of going back to vert sometimes. Thanks for putting up your thread so we can learn from it. Some cool cool shit.
Mr.GoodCat
- 693
- 63
To answer the questions about the light placement for all those questioning ... in veg plants are much more light sensitive then in flower (under my observation anyway). This is why I always keep the lights higher when I am vegging. In veg I run my lights on flip - flop for 9 hours each bay to give a total of 18-hours of light. After about 2 weeks I illuminate all the lamps for 18 hours until they reach big enough size to flower. I keep my lights elevated through the flip to ensure even light distribution throughout the room during stretch. When plants stop their vertical growth I then lower the lights about 40% into the plant height. Under my observation by doing this all the plants grow at an even rate, even the corner plants that get 2 sides of light are about the same as the center plants that get 4 sides of light. When the plants really start packing on the weight the lights are then moved into position to maximize yield. This is because everything in my room is reflective and I have achieved about 40w/ sq.ft with my new light layout. The entire ceiling is permaflect material which acts as a giant reflector in the whole room.
El Cerebro
- 1,197
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Not trying to be a naysayer, would love to watch you break 3lbs in chow. Hadn't thought about the reflectivity either, was just thinking distance to bulb. I vegged a team of 3fters all gathered around a single 1k mh hung low with white refl perimeter, just turned them 1/4 a day (t5s up to 1' first). And yeah i bleached a smaller C99 badly that way but at the right distance everything else ran great.
DW, have you considered vert-scrog? With the right strains they work great because it takes advantage of the natural upward growing pattern and you can fill the screen during stretch. It's like one flat surface from an apical/tree grow, and it typically doubles your canopy potential vs horz in the same room dims. A guy I know runs several 10x10 bedrooms with 4ea of these 4x7' panels positioned in a square around 2 inline cool tubes with 1k dual arcs (or 3x600s, 2hps/1mh rotating positions). It doesn't produce what a tree grow can in a big room, but like I said, double horizontal and more effecient lighting. Kind of need a fast system to fill the frames I think, he does it with combo aero/dwc, 2 plants per.
Goodcat, what's the stuff on your ceiling made for? Been wanting something like that myself. Googling now..
DW, have you considered vert-scrog? With the right strains they work great because it takes advantage of the natural upward growing pattern and you can fill the screen during stretch. It's like one flat surface from an apical/tree grow, and it typically doubles your canopy potential vs horz in the same room dims. A guy I know runs several 10x10 bedrooms with 4ea of these 4x7' panels positioned in a square around 2 inline cool tubes with 1k dual arcs (or 3x600s, 2hps/1mh rotating positions). It doesn't produce what a tree grow can in a big room, but like I said, double horizontal and more effecient lighting. Kind of need a fast system to fill the frames I think, he does it with combo aero/dwc, 2 plants per.
Goodcat, what's the stuff on your ceiling made for? Been wanting something like that myself. Googling now..
DrCALIGREENTHUM
- 748
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How did your last round go?
Flower Shots?
Flower Shots?
dankworth
- 1,519
- 163
Did vert scrog. It was a huge pain in my ass logistically. For some it might be awesome.
First pics that got me all inspired were cylindrical vscrogs.
First pics that got me all inspired were cylindrical vscrogs.
Mr.GoodCat
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Its sold by hydrofarm, not sure what the original intention was. Its called permaflect and its sold in 100' rolls.
M
mrdizzle
- 1,895
- 48
the light position is perfect bro, bottom of the bulb to the top of the plant in veg and until around the end of stretch
then moven them down so the socket of the bulb is even with the top of the plants you you will have solid buds all around
then moven them down so the socket of the bulb is even with the top of the plants you you will have solid buds all around
El Cerebro
- 1,197
- 113
Couldn't find if you said earlier, but what strains do you have in there?
Noticed your old Chemdog D thread (nice btw) and wondering if it could give decent yield tree style. I have a semi-scrogged one going now and was debating whether to run it again - a little slower in veg then blew up and surprised me after flip. Now thinking I might try a big one in chow next run.
Noticed your old Chemdog D thread (nice btw) and wondering if it could give decent yield tree style. I have a semi-scrogged one going now and was debating whether to run it again - a little slower in veg then blew up and surprised me after flip. Now thinking I might try a big one in chow next run.
Mr.GoodCat
- 693
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Went OK, learned a ton. Didn't take many flower shots, think I deleted them all.
I am running 13dawgz, and fire bubba. Chemdog D would probably be ok in vert but will need plenty of support.
sdgrower
- 788
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Great info and a great room!
:animbong:
:animbong:
P
paradigm510
- 1
- 1
hahah... the same people who weigh their shit with everything including stems, leaves.... hardly trust anyone without pics anymore when it comes to talking about massive yields it's blah blah
Mr.GoodCat
- 693
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Look at post #37 that is picture enough. I never claimed to grow a 5 pound plant donkey so stay off my thread, you have 2 posts and they are both trolling me. So kick rocks troll.
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