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Resivoir temps got down to 13c. Going to get an aquarium heater. Any suggestions?
If money is not an issue I like colbalt. If not eheim or fluvial. Make sure the temps settings are low enough. I know colbalt is 66f and up. How many gal?Resivoir temps got down to 13c. Going to get an aquarium heater. Any suggestions?
It's looking like your at the point it's now just about consistency. Some water temp adjustment and just keep an eye out. Sounds like your getting it dialed in now.Took off a handful of the sickest leaves that were blocking bud sites. I think the progress of the problem has mostly stopped. Will be keeping an eye on it.
Temp has come up in general, so the water temp has been 19-21c without a heater. PH usually at 6.2 when they wake up.
Been keeping the 60w/ft^2, but I had left one of the lights on for 24 hours about 3 days ago, so been slowly getting back in the cycle by going 8h light, 12 h dark every other day till I get back on track. Note to self, make sure any new lights you add to a flowering tent is also plugged into a timer.
I will aim for 800 ppm when I give it fresh water tomorrow.
The system is going through about 2-3 gallons of water a day in this 1m^2 space.
Any diagnosis or opinions welcome.
If money is not an issue I like colbalt. If not eheim or fluvial. Make sure the temps settings are low enough. I know colbalt is 66f and up. How many gal?
6 yrs and counting. I mean for the price in hydro I would prob just go eheim or fluvial. I didn't mind paying more because I have cooked fish before when other have failed. Not so much of an issue in hydro.40 gal in new one and 20 in the other.
Those Cobalt ones are a lot more eh? Do you use that one? How long has it lasted for you?
6 yrs and counting. I mean for the price in hydro I would prob just go eheim or fluvial. I didn't mind paying more because I have cooked fish before when other have failed. Not so much of an issue in hydro.
looking goodDid a big maintenance day. Took the totes out of the tent so I could clean everything up.
Defoliated about 20% of fan leaves equally from top and bottom.
Flushed the clay thoroughly from the top with 12 gals per tote of ph and temp corrected 35 ppm tap water to clear out built up salts.
Added scrog net back to support some fat buds. My hands got SO sticky pulling the buds into place.
Sanitized the resivoir.
Mixed new nutrient solution. 5.5 ph 850 ppm 80% strength micro bloom and Magnifical.
Bit of a heat wave here so been keeping the humidity in the target range to address VPD.
I have to say I have never had such old leaves still looking so great this late into the grow. Probably my most successful one yet.
Absolutely helpful. Did you read the thread I made on VPD?Took your advice, and displaced enough solution with fresh water to get ppm to 700 on the nose. I may have to cut back the initial dose from 80% to 70% to keep the ppm from being too high. Or should I reduce Magnifical usage at any point if the signs of calcium deficiency stay away?
The humidifier in there should correct RH now to the high room temp.
I do have a temp gun. Would knowing the leaf temp vs tent air temp be helpful?
Wanna get the leaf temps 75-77 without CO2
Yup best to write em down daily then when something changes it goes a long way to figuring things out. Just a fan can make a difference.Yep, I did have a read on it.
My leaf temps tend to be 2c less than the air. But throughout a grow my temps may run 15c in winter or 30c in summer. So for me, it's easier to control humidity than temp.
I assume based on the below chart, I can just adjust the humidity based on the temp. It would be more ideal if I could run the perfect temp too, but that is just not totally doable right now.
On the plus side, I have been running this strain for a couple of years now and trust it's resistance to mold from humidity.
I was wondering if knowing that the leaf surface temp was no longer 2c less, would that help confirm the heat/over perspiration diagnoses?
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