Tired of trainwrecking other peoples threads? Well then, come party at the captains! Trainwreck this thread with…….trains? Anything goes here……….

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Captspaulding

Captspaulding

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Alight, so mushies.
First a list of supplies needed.
I suggest for starters that you use
The mono tub method
1 3lb bag of sterilized grain spawn w/ injection port
1 5lb bag of sterilized bulk substrate
1 spore syringe of your strain
Packing tape
Medical tape 2inch wide
Contractors plastic to make a liner for your tub. This is necessary it keeps your cake from side pinning, helps stave off possible contamination.
Gloves
2 spray bottles one for iso one for ro water
1 64 quart sterilite container with clamps and gasket lid
1st take some hole saws and a drill,
Grab the sterilite container and drill 6 holes in it.
IMG 0566

Then cut out a liner in the contractors plastic to make it fit like this
IMG 0567

Now take your spray bottle of iso and get to sterilizing the liner and your tub. I have filter disks here, but you will use packing tape instead to cover your holes at the start. We need a tight container with no air exchange to start. Once we have the tub handled and made, set that aside….

Now we take out our iso alcohol and our sterile grain spawn, remember everything in the steps requires an over cautious approach with iso, always spraying our hands and sterile spawn bag down. Un tape the bag and clean off the injection port with iso and use 5ml of the 10ml syringe (you can get 2 grows out of 1 syringe) insert in the injection port and inoculate the grain now we wait for the mycelium to colonize the grain. Healthy mycelium is white, any blues reds or greens its contaminated. This colony of mycelium will take anywhere from 2 weeks to 4 weeks depending on the strain of cubensis you are growing
69497256275  A4797C54 F714 4BEA 93F2 1200C1A8B713

once the grain turns into a a white colonized substrate
This is when we go back to the monotub
With our 5lb bag of bulk sterilized substrate
And 3lb bag of colonized grain
Sterilize everything the bags the tub and the liner. Always spraying.
Now we cut open the grain bag and dump it into the liner. With gloves on break up the white cake of mycelium as much as possible.
Now take your sterile substrate, roughly 3 lbs and add it to the busted up mycelium and mix it together really well. Spread it all even to the edges of the liner.
IMG 5748

Then take the last of the sterile bulk substrate and cover the whole mixture with a nice 2 inch layer lightly packed on top.
Close your monotub up, and keep it in a cool dark area roughly 65 to 75 degrees somewhere in the house to allow the mycelium to completely Colonize your cake. Over the next 2-3 weeks it will turn all white.
Do not open your tub during this time. All holes on the box should be sealed with packing tape. Zero air exchange during this dark period.
IMG 5757

this is an almost complete cake. 2 days out from being ready to fruit. You will notice the white spots, these are hyphal knots that will eventually turn into primordia, the beginning of a baby mushroom.
IMG 5822

This box is 100% colonized with all the little bumps have changed from hyphal knots to primordia. Now we are ready to fruit.

This step is about air exchange. We remove the tape from our holes one at a time replacing the packing tape with breathable medi tape. This allows for the air to move freely between the box but stays sterile.
After we have covered our holes, we spray everything down and crack the lid, flap gently for 30 seconds to get rid of the co2 and replace that with fresh air. This is how we fruit the primordia. Now we repeat this air exchange process 1 time every 13 hours.
In roughly 1 week you will have pins. Then they grow fast as fuck. Only 3-4 days for monster fruit
IMG 5880

As well as starting air exchange this is when we introduce a light cycle. I’ve always just used a 12/12 cycle with lighting. It can be totally ambient light, or even something as simple as a clip lamp with regular bulb pointed towards the box. Nothing fancy needed here.
Now we monitor the box, the bulk substrate should keep everything plenty moist for your grow, but if there isn’t condensation on the walls of your box, this is what the spray bottle of to water is for. Misting the sides and the mycelium. Repeating this process until a few days later.
IMG 5885

Then we get some fruit…. @awesomeblossom @sourorangedieselkush
 
Last edited:
Captspaulding

Captspaulding

What’s the matter? Don’t like clowns? 🤡
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Fixed the pic links.
 
Captspaulding

Captspaulding

What’s the matter? Don’t like clowns? 🤡
Staff
Supporter
21,593
638
Alight, so mushies.
First a list of supplies needed.
I suggest for starters that you use
The mono tub method
1 3lb bag of sterilized grain spawn w/ injection port
1 5lb bag of sterilized bulk substrate
1 spore syringe of your strain
Packing tape
Medical tape 2inch wide
Contractors plastic to make a liner for your tub. This is necessary it keeps your cake from side pinning, helps stave off possible contamination.
Gloves
2 spray bottles one for iso one for ro water
1 64 quart sterilite container with clamps and gasket lid
1st take some hole saws and a drill,
Grab the sterilite container and drill 6 holes in it. View attachment 2082102
Then cut out a liner in the contractors plastic to make it fit like this View attachment 2082103
Now take your spray bottle of iso and get to sterilizing the liner and your tub. I have filter disks here, but you will use packing tape instead to cover your holes at the start. We need a tight container with no air exchange to start. Once we have the tub handled and made, set that aside….

Now we take out our iso alcohol and our sterile grain spawn, remember everything in the steps requires an over cautious approach with iso, always spraying our hands and sterile spawn bag down. Un tape the bag and clean off the injection port with iso and use 5ml of the 10ml syringe (you can get 2 grows out of 1 syringe) insert in the injection port and inoculate the grain now we wait for the mycelium to colonize the grain. Healthy mycelium is white, any blues reds or greens its contaminated. This colony of mycelium will take anywhere from 2 weeks to 4 weeks depending on the strain of cubensis you are growing View attachment 2082104
once the grain turns into a a white colonized substrate
This is when we go back to the monotub
With our 5lb bag of bulk sterilized substrate
And 3lb bag of colonized grain
Sterilize everything the bags the tub and the liner. Always spraying.
Now we cut open the grain bag and dump it into the liner. With gloves on break up the white cake of mycelium as much as possible.
Now take your sterile substrate, roughly 3 lbs and add it to the busted up mycelium and mix it together really well. Spread it all even to the edges of the liner. View attachment 2082105
Then take the last of the sterile bulk substrate and cover the whole mixture with a nice 2 inch layer lightly packed on top.
Close your monotub up, and keep it in a cool dark area roughly 65 to 75 degrees somewhere in the house to allow the mycelium to completely Colonize your cake. Over the next 2-3 weeks it will turn all white.
Do not open your tub during this time. All holes on the box should be sealed with packing tape. Zero air exchange during this dark period. View attachment 2082108
this is an almost complete cake. 2 days out from being ready to fruit. You will notice the white spots, these are hyphal knots that will eventually turn into primordia, the beginning of a baby mushroom. View attachment 2082109
This box is 100% colonized with all the little bumps have changed from hyphal knots to primordia. Now we are ready to fruit.

This step is about air exchange. We remove the tape from our holes one at a time replacing the packing tape with breathable medi tape. This allows for the air to move freely between the box but stays sterile.
After we have covered our holes, we spray everything down and crack the lid, flap gently for 30 seconds to get rid of the co2 and replace that with fresh air. This is how we fruit the primordia. Now we repeat this air exchange process 1 time every 13 hours.
In roughly 1 week you will have pins. Then they grow fast as fuck. Only 3-4 days for monster fruit View attachment 2082110
As well as starting air exchange this is when we introduce a light cycle. I’ve always just used a 12/12 cycle with lighting. It can be totally ambient light, or even something as simple as a clip lamp with regular bulb pointed towards the box. Nothing fancy needed here.
Now we monitor the box, the bulk substrate should keep everything plenty moist for your grow, but if there isn’t condensation on the walls of your box, this is what the spray bottle of to water is for. Misting the sides and the mycelium. Repeating this process until a few days later.View attachment 2082113
Then we get some fruit…. @awesomeblossom @sourorangedieselkush
@BB22
 
BB22

BB22

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Super thorough write up. Thank you very much. Boomer Shroomer demonstrates Capt’s write up very well.

Two questions
You prefer the bags instead of jars?
What is the strain of shrooms that you’re holding?

Thanks again 🤓 👍

Edit. Third question is there a particular website vender that you’d recommend for spores and everything else for Golden Teacher. ✌️
 
Captspaulding

Captspaulding

What’s the matter? Don’t like clowns? 🤡
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Supporter
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Super thorough write up. Thank you very much. Boomer Shroomer demonstrates Capt’s write up very well.

Two questions
You prefer the bags instead of jars?
What is the strain of shrooms that you’re holding?

Thanks again 🤓 👍
Those are legit penis envy descended from the strain Terrence mckenna brought back from the Amazon in the 70’s
I do prefer bags over jars. Jars have more failure points, I prefer the vacuum sealed grain bags. They make larger bags than the ones I broke down in the breakdown. Once you get good at mycology you’ll start looking for the larger grain bags to have bigger grows. Jars only get some big. Plus they shatter, bags don’t if you have an accident. 👊🏻🤡
 
Leoman

Leoman

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What's the consensus on scrog with different strains in the same tent? I got a trellis but then thought, what if one strain decides to stretch a foot more than the other and they're locked down by a net..
 
Captspaulding

Captspaulding

What’s the matter? Don’t like clowns? 🤡
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Thanks man. I edited my post asking for a recommended vender if you have one. Thanks again. I want to start on this ✌️
My favorite, that has had the most spore in their syringes is mushlove genetics.
Some suppliers really put the bare minimum in their products.
Never got a syringe that didn’t colonize healthy. 👊🏻
 
Captspaulding

Captspaulding

What’s the matter? Don’t like clowns? 🤡
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What's the consensus on scrog with different strains in the same tent? I got a trellis but then thought, what if one strain decides to stretch a foot more than the other and they're locked down by a net..
This is a stop gap if you don’t like to get fairly aggressive in your plant training. Things like supercropping to control height differential….
 
Captspaulding

Captspaulding

What’s the matter? Don’t like clowns? 🤡
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Captain
You seem to top as your go to and it certainly works, but how do you fell about fimming? I've only done it a few times correctly but seemed very similar to topping.
Funny you bring that up. Was just talking earlier with a homie about it.
I’m not really proficient in fimming, it was just explained to me today as a real Bob Ross happy accident by a Dutch grower who then coined the term fim “fuck I missed”
At least this is the story I got about fimming today. But I have accidentally fimmed my plants a bunch trying to top too early and missing the cut. Now I always cut the tuft off after I notice it. I always snatched them because my thought process was it would be slow going, and it’s most likely snagging some juice for those two new stalks I want….
So you know, I’ve done it but usually remove the funny looking growth after accidentally doing it 😂
 
Mikedin

Mikedin

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What's the consensus on scrog with different strains in the same tent? I got a trellis but then thought, what if one strain decides to stretch a foot more than the other and they're locked down by a net..
While I prefer to run a single strain mainly for the reason you stated above, height differences,

Personally I run singles in a scrog if from seed (even the same strain)

If I switch to clones then I’ll put more than one in a single net

Was just setting these single pot trellis’s up last night to see which I like better since I’m running 2 different strains and all 4 plants are from seed (2 of each)


There small nets but I expect them to bush out past the sides the. I can tie them back to the net,

This is for a pheno hunt for the next set of clones I’ll run in a single scrog, but after seeing these test buckets I have another idea,
Goal of this is so I can remove each plant individually to rearrange or to work on them outside of the cramped tent but still have full support for them
 
IMG 0726
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