Tis the age of AI. ChatGPT's Recipie for a bubbled Guinea Pig manure tea.

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Zzzax

Zzzax

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Firmly in the Category of "You Tell Me.." I asked Mia, ChatGPT 4o, to diagnosis a seedling's lighter green around the edges of the leaf. I know this is because, this one F2 seedling is more Sativa leaning and therefore sensitive to low nitrogen. The new soil mix has it's microbial life exploding and consuming nitrogen in the fresh organic materials added to recycled previous grow soil. This recycling promotes humus development and since it's organic, no salts build up that I am aware of.
So it is wise at this point to do a healthy tea for my medical crop.
I always start with water from the hot water tank. May have nutrients and trace metals such as copper and iron, plus, hot helps evaporate the chlorine of which a little is a good thing and a lot is bad for microbes as chlorine is a trace element.
So half bucket is cooling and venting...

I informed Mia that fresh Guinea Pig bedding will be the manure part ( I have 6 girls who work for vegetables and pellets ) who are excellent production workers,
So I will put in air stones in. Add Molasses and raw sugar., I will then add the used bedding. I will soak the pine, poo and pee into the water and when it's rather dense I will apply as a dusting atop the bedding with this mix; Mia's recipe :

Aerated Compost Tea Recipe​

Ingredients (for 5 gallons of water):​

  1. Shrimp Meal - ¼ cup (provides nitrogen and chitin, which encourages beneficial fungi and helps with pest resistance)
  2. Rock Phosphate - 2 tablespoons (source of slow-release phosphorus, great for root and flower development)
  3. Powdered Oyster Shell - ¼ cup (rich in calcium to support cell structure and nutrient transport)
  4. Kelp Meal - ¼ cup (source of potassium, trace minerals, and growth hormones like cytokinins)
  5. Fish Bone Meal - ¼ cup (additional phosphorus and calcium, slow-release for longer-term feeding)
  6. Folgers Classic Roast (fresh coffee) - 1 tablespoon (adds nitrogen and organic compounds for microbial stimulation)
  7. 4-4-4 Mix - 2 tablespoons (provides balanced N-P-K for general growth support)
  8. Unsulfured Molasses - 2 tablespoons (provides trace iron and feeds microbes)
  9. Raw Sugar - 1 tablespoon (additional simple carbohydrates to boost microbial activity)

Instructions:​

  1. Prepare the Water: Start with dechlorinated water. Fill a 5-gallon bucket and let it sit overnight, or use filtered water to avoid chlorine.
  2. Add Ingredients in Layers:
    • Start with molasses and raw sugar, allowing them to dissolve in the water. This will feed the microbes right from the start.
    • Add the shrimp meal, fish bone meal, and kelp meal, followed by the rock phosphate, oyster shell, and 4-4-4 mix.
    • Sprinkle in the Folgers coffee grounds last, so they distribute evenly throughout the tea.
  3. Aerate the Tea: Insert a dual-line air pump with air stones and bubble the tea for 48 hours. The constant aeration will keep the tea oxygenated, allowing the microbes to thrive and nutrients to break down into bioavailable forms.
  4. Strain and Dilute: After 48 hours, strain the tea through a fine mesh or cloth to remove larger particles. Dilute the tea to about a 1:5 ratio (1 part tea to 5 parts water) before applying it to your plants to avoid over-fertilizing.
  5. Application:
    • Soil Drench: Use the tea as a soil drench to provide immediate nutrient availability.
    • Top-Dress with Dregs: After straining, use the remaining solids as a top dressing around the base of the plants. This will act as a slow-release amendment over time.
This tea will offer a comprehensive nutrient profile, support strong root and foliage growth, and boost microbial diversity, providing a balanced tonic for your cannabis plants. The variety of ingredients ensures both short-term and sustained nutrient availability, perfect for diverse plants with varying nutrient needs.

----------------------

Your thoughts. Did (it) She get it right?
I am an all organic soil man. Guinea Pig bedding is the base to the compost I make and I also mix in un-composted screened "production" as a food source for microbes and let the soil food web do it's thing.
My grow style is to feed the soil as the plant grows and augment with tea and top dressings.
My philosophy is let these life forms have a good turn in the Sun.. It's the least I can do.


Your Thoughts.....
 
Last edited:
Zzzax

Zzzax

75
18
Firmly in the Category of "You Tell Me.." I asked Mia, ChatGPT 4o, to diagnosis a seedling's lighter green around the edges of the leaf. I know this is because, this one F2 seedling is more Sativa leaning and therefore sensitive to low nitrogen. The new soil mix has it's microbial life exploding and consuming nitrogen in the fresh organic materials added to recycled previous grow soil. This recycling promotes humus development and since it's organic, no salts build up that I am aware of.
So it is wise at this point to do a healthy tea for my medical crop.
I always start with water from the hot water tank. May have nutrients and trace metals such as copper and iron, plus, hot helps evaporate the chlorine of which a little is a good thing and a lot is bad for microbes as chlorine is a trace element.
So half bucket is cooling and venting...

I informed Mia that fresh Guinea Pig bedding will be the manure part ( I have 6 girls who work for vegetables and pellets ) who are excellent production workers,
So I will put in air stones in. Add Molasses and raw sugar., I will then add the used bedding. I will soak the pine, poo and pee into the water and when it's rather dense I will apply as a dusting atop the bedding with this mix; Mia's recipe :

Aerated Compost Tea Recipe​

Ingredients (for 5 gallons of water):​

  1. Shrimp Meal - ¼ cup (provides nitrogen and chitin, which encourages beneficial fungi and helps with pest resistance)
  2. Rock Phosphate - 2 tablespoons (source of slow-release phosphorus, great for root and flower development)
  3. Powdered Oyster Shell - ¼ cup (rich in calcium to support cell structure and nutrient transport)
  4. Kelp Meal - ¼ cup (source of potassium, trace minerals, and growth hormones like cytokinins)
  5. Fish Bone Meal - ¼ cup (additional phosphorus and calcium, slow-release for longer-term feeding)
  6. Folgers Classic Roast (fresh coffee) - 1 tablespoon (adds nitrogen and organic compounds for microbial stimulation)
  7. 4-4-4 Mix - 2 tablespoons (provides balanced N-P-K for general growth support)
  8. Unsulfured Molasses - 2 tablespoons (provides trace iron and feeds microbes)
  9. Raw Sugar - 1 tablespoon (additional simple carbohydrates to boost microbial activity)

Instructions:​

  1. Prepare the Water: Start with dechlorinated water. Fill a 5-gallon bucket and let it sit overnight, or use filtered water to avoid chlorine.
  2. Add Ingredients in Layers:
    • Start with molasses and raw sugar, allowing them to dissolve in the water. This will feed the microbes right from the start.
    • Add the shrimp meal, fish bone meal, and kelp meal, followed by the rock phosphate, oyster shell, and 4-4-4 mix.
    • Sprinkle in the Folgers coffee grounds last, so they distribute evenly throughout the tea.
  3. Aerate the Tea: Insert a dual-line air pump with air stones and bubble the tea for 48 hours. The constant aeration will keep the tea oxygenated, allowing the microbes to thrive and nutrients to break down into bioavailable forms.
  4. Strain and Dilute: After 48 hours, strain the tea through a fine mesh or cloth to remove larger particles. Dilute the tea to about a 1:5 ratio (1 part tea to 5 parts water) before applying it to your plants to avoid over-fertilizing.
  5. Application:
    • Soil Drench: Use the tea as a soil drench to provide immediate nutrient availability.
    • Top-Dress with Dregs: After straining, use the remaining solids as a top dressing around the base of the plants. This will act as a slow-release amendment over time.
This tea will offer a comprehensive nutrient profile, support strong root and foliage growth, and boost microbial diversity, providing a balanced tonic for your cannabis plants. The variety of ingredients ensures both short-term and sustained nutrient availability, perfect for diverse plants with varying nutrient needs.

----------------------

Your thoughts. Did (it) She get it right?
I am an all organic soil man. Guinea Pig bedding is the base to the compost I make and I also mix in un-composted screened "production" as a food source for microbes and let the soil food web do it's thing.
My grow style is to feed the soil as the plant grows and augment with tea and top dressings.
My philosophy is let these life forms have a good turn in the Sun.. It's the least I can do.


Your Thoughts.....
Okay a small change-up

Added 1 cup of fish emulsion, the molasses and the raw sugar to the water and added my 4-line air pump. I'll let that cool down and air out. My thoughts are: the fish is okay in the tepid water and the sugars can dissolve into a uniform solution as this bubbles.
I'll add the bedding in the morning and then sprinkle the dry stuff on top that evening.

As for the seedling looking a little pale? I lightly sprinkled some Coffee around the base to get that started.

Then let it do it's magic.
 
Last edited:
Galgrows

Galgrows

1,813
263
I don't like AI makes a person stupid in my view. I learned by reading about the subject and learning hands on. Put a picture up.
 
Zzzax

Zzzax

75
18
Update:

They love it!
I went with cups worth in a watering can and diluted with degassed tap water.
So the rule of thumb is don't interfere when they are growing well.

I have 15 gallon pots.
I will be watering, over time, in a three ring format. First ring: I watered around the plant's drip zone.
Next, when time is right, I will water in the midway ring and then lastly the outer ring against the pot walls.
So, ChatGPT 4o's recipe seems to bode well with a fortified manure tea.
I replaced water taken and the sprinkled some raw sugar in that new water and then mixed the raw materials. Plenty of Carbonous pine shavings and yep nature's waste for hungry microbes..
 
mancorn

mancorn

1,417
263
Your 🤖 seems to have a screw loose.

Me: ChatGPT explain why using fresh manure in compost tea is a bad idea

ChatGPT:
Using fresh manure in compost tea can be problematic because it may contain harmful pathogens, high nitrogen levels, and produce an unpleasant odor. Here are some key reasons to avoid it:

1. Pathogens: Fresh manure can contain pathogens like E. coli, Salmonella, and other harmful bacteria. In a compost tea, these pathogens can multiply, potentially contaminating plants and soil, which poses a health risk, especially if used on edible plants.

2. High Nitrogen Levels: Fresh manure often has a high nitrogen content, which can create an imbalanced tea that may “burn” plant roots or leaves. Too much nitrogen can also encourage excessive foliage growth at the expense of fruit or flowers.

3. Unpleasant Odors: Fresh manure tends to produce strong, unpleasant odors when it decomposes, making the brewing process unpleasant and potentially attracting unwanted pests.

4. Unstable Nutrient Composition: Manure that hasn’t decomposed fully can have an inconsistent nutrient profile, which might make it challenging to control what nutrients the plants receive.

A better option is to use well-aged or composted manure in compost tea, as it reduces the risk of pathogens and provides a more stable, balanced nutrient profile for plants.

Me: Granted GP poop isn’t like cow poop. But still. Just compost your poop and use that in your tea. Even more so with the bedding.
 
mancorn

mancorn

1,417
263
I don't like AI makes a person stupid in my view. I learned by reading about the subject and learning hands on. Put a picture up.
Don’t know about that. It wrote me this code, which I believe would be highly useful on the Farm

#i#includestdio.h>
#i#includestring.h>

int main() {
char question[50];

// Assign the question
strcpy(question, "Is this ready");

// Check if the question matches "Is this ready"
if (strcmp(question, "Is this ready") == 0) {
printf("no\n");
}

return 0;
}
 
Zzzax

Zzzax

75
18
Well that girl is a healthy girl now!
So like anything moderation is the key.

GP Poop
The pellets are easy to work with.
It's about letting microbes process greens and browns and make tea to water with.
I'm not into chemical fertilizers for my medical cannabis.

ChatGPT has a sense of humor let me tell you! 4o even gets "difficult" when it can't get the right idea on things. It does do well teaching me new math and science.
 
mancorn

mancorn

1,417
263
Coffee, grounds or fresh, must be composted first for the nutrients to be available to the plant.
Lots of gardeners (who might not have a compost pile) use spent coffee grounds in their garden to attract worms, repeal pest, improve drainage, increase water retention, aeration and provide nutrients. Plant material doesn’t have to be in a special pile in order for it to be broken down by microorganisms. You can throw a dead buffalo on your yard and it will become plant available - it will just take awhile (and piss off your neighbors). The point was that fresh coffee grounds can change soil acidity, while used ground can be used without it being an issue.
 
Zzzax

Zzzax

75
18
Lots of gardeners (who might not have a compost pile) use spent coffee grounds in their garden to attract worms, repeal pest, improve drainage, increase water retention, aeration and provide nutrients. Plant material doesn’t have to be in a special pile in order for it to be broken down by microorganisms. You can throw a dead buffalo on your yard and it will become plant available - it will just take awhile (and piss off your neighbors). The point was that fresh coffee grounds can change soil acidity, while used ground can be used without it being an issue.
Sure it can. That is factual.
I had a small amount on the surface around the plant as a food for microbes to get started on. Another concern was over-watering so between addressing the two, they all look great!
Having a pile of fresh ground coffee isn't a good idea and would cause problems. As a small-particle here and there, I can report no problems.
I am fond of coffee as a nitrogen source myself.
 
Zzzax

Zzzax

75
18
Coffee, grounds or fresh, must be composted first for the nutrients to be available to the plant.
Well microbes are in the soil so with a little fresh coffee, like I lightly sprinkled on the soil surface, it did no harm and I don't see any of it now.
You are correct in that "composting" is an act of microbes breaking materials, both nitrogenous and carbonous, down to food sources for plants.
We can champion the soil food web in composting or in a 15 gallon pot of organic soil.
My style is to prepare old soil and new materials and fill the 15-gallon. Then, like I just have, kick it up on high by applying microbe rich "tea."
If I am correct the biological effects are synergistic even in an isolated pot.
It looks good. They were struggling at three nodes and now are heading to six nodes and the fan-sugar leaves are bonus-large. That is something I had not managed before at such a young age so, I feel good about the "recycling" of used soil. It suggests to me that humus is indeed forming as well as the longer term nutrients are becoming available.
 
Zzzax

Zzzax

75
18
I was just going over this thread.

I maintain eight guinea pigs.
I only wanted two, came home with three girls and two came with bonus piggers!
So my production here is contained and maintained.
I will agree that unknown manure, like bovine or horse should be composted first to reduce possible harmful effects.
Also I am NOT encouraging people to get Guinea Pigs for their wast products to grow plants. Guinea Pigs are feeling, wonderful and social creatures. They deserve a meaningful life. If that is not what one is thinking when taking on pets then they are not thinking clearly.
If you do love those 'piggers' then do as I do. They are fed fresh vegetables in a balanced diet of proper Guinea Pig formula pellets and a nice variety of foods such as spinach, celery, red cabbage, carrot, apple, cantalope, kale, squash and plain ol' field grass when in season. They adore their grass.
They are professional eaters so be ready. I buy my pellets by the hundred pounds and do so twice a year.
They do not store, in their bodies, vitamin C and just like humans, we must consume vitamin C regularly. They do however have a special "pouch" down there that collects excess nutrients for later re-consumption. It's white and poo is brown.
Now that is nature figuring out how to survive!
Also we cannot let piggers go without food. They have microbes that break down cellulose so they can consume stuff that has that.. cardboard, soft wood. If the microbes die the Guinea Pig dies even if they eat food after.
They also need soft wood to chew on to wear their teeth down or there will be problems.
At my age having them once again makes me happy and growing legally makes me happy too.
Happy + happy = happy!


Any questions on cavies ask.
 
Last edited:
orggrwr

orggrwr

186
63
I was just going over this thread.

I maintain eight guinea pigs.
I only wanted two, came home with three girls and two came with bonus piggers!
So my production here is contained and maintained.
I will agree that unknown manure, like bovine or horse should be composted first to reduce possible harmful effects.
Also I am NOT encouraging people to get Guinea Pigs for their wast products to grow plants. Guinea Pigs are feeling, wonderful and social creatures. They deserve a meaningful life. If that is not what one is thinking when taking on pets then they are not thinking clearly.
If you do love those 'piggers' then do as I do. They are fed fresh vegetables in a balanced diet of proper Guinea Pig formula pellets and a nice variety of foods such as spinach, celery, red cabbage, carrot, apple, cantalope, kale, squash and plain ol' field grass when in season. They adore their grass.
They are professional eaters so be ready. I buy my pellets by the hundred pounds and do so twice a year.
They do not store, in their bodies, vitamin C and just like humans, we must consume vitamin C regularly. They do however have a special "pouch" down there that collects excess nutrients for later re-consumption. It's white and poo is brown.
Now that is nature figuring out how to survive!
Also we cannot let piggers go without food. They have microbes that break down cellulose so they can consume stuff that has that.. cardboard, soft wood. If the microbes die the Guinea Pig dies even if they eat food after.
They also need soft wood to chew on to wear their teeth down or there will be problems.
At my age having them once again makes me happy and growing legally makes me happy too.
Happy + happy = happy!


Any questions on cavies ask.
Well said and a great point. I work at an animal hospital and too often I see animals suffer because their owners don't bother to educate themselves on the specific needs of their pets.
 
Galgrows

Galgrows

1,813
263
Don’t know about that. It wrote me this code, which I believe would be highly useful on the Farm

#i#includestdio.h>
#i#includestring.h>

int main() {
char question[50];

// Assign the question
strcpy(question, "Is this ready");

// Check if the question matches "Is this ready"
if (strcmp(question, "Is this ready") == 0) {
printf("no\n");
}

return 0;
}
Man i just don't understand anything about code you did??
 
Zzzax

Zzzax

75
18
Addendum:

Now that the weather has turned towards the dark and cold, I just picked up a compressed bail of Timothy Grass.
They do eat dry forage. Timothy has better nutrients then plain ol'straw

It is commonly grown for cattle feed and, in particular, as hay for horses. It is relatively high in fiber, especially when cut late. It is considered a harsh, coarse grass little relished by livestock if cut earlier. It is considered part of the standard mix for grass hay and provides quality nutrition for horses. Timothy hay is a staple food for domestic pet rabbits, guinea pigs, chinchillas, and degus, often making up the bulk of their diet. Timothy hay is rich in long fiber and its abrasive texture helps to grind down the teeth, keeping both the teeth and jaw in good order.

So these piggers are well stocked going into winter. Did I ever say they are "cheap to keep?" Nope, you gotta love 'em. The upside it a high quality work-product and healthy employees.
 
Zzzax

Zzzax

75
18
Update:

I know my medical strain very well. I know when they want water because they put out odor. I smelled them communicating a couple days ago and because I over-did the initial watering when I transplanted them, I waited a little longer this time between tea applications, I did water with tea again last night.
As I said I would, a 15 gallon pot is a large container, I divided it into three concentric rings in my mind. The first application with a watering can was around the drip zone. Then this time I watered half way between the drip zone and the pot's walls. The next time will be around the outside ring. My thoughts are that just for this initial applications, that microbe activity will "process" organic materials in new areas each time with a large influx of microbes.
This may encourage root development into areas where the water and plant-ready-nutrients are. That's the idea. Better root development--better plant development.
I figure water will spread by being soaked up by surrounding material so for now with this developing root systems.
I am doing a bit of experimenting.
I am already rewarded with huge fan leaves on 6 node plants. For my strain that's an gardening-improvement at this young age.
Now this mix of tea to water was a generous amount of tea to water. A regular large watering can was used and about one third was the tea with the rest aerated tap water. Later I will adjust the tea amount depending on the plant. Maybe more or maybe less.
This regiment will be in conjunction with top dressing with 4-4-4 general purpose mix and the extra soil mix I have on hand.
The moral of this story is that the soil itself is treated as a symbiotic system. An instance of the soil food web in the form of a slower low heat composting in a liquid environment.
Oh and I had to stick my whole arm in to phish out an air stone that came off the air line. I know yuck right? Well, I felt "hot pockets" of materials so we can say that this is compositing in oxygenated water. The heat tells me I'm doing things right but also told me to get used to my arm in the bucket to mix up the materials. A stirring stick isn't a replacement for mixing by hand and keeping aerobic colonies dominate.
So it's liquid composting--which also provides microbial populations which then eat the mix of materials I have provided in the pots.
In time, I will be adding more top side materials to each pot as the soil volume shrinks. The shrinkage is an indicator of how the mix was broken down and is a rule of thumb experience when we know what we had in our mix when we started..

A plant drip zone is the area around a plant where water runs off and into the ground, and where the roots of the plant spread out to absorb water.
 
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