Transplant Shock / Stall

[Tbone]

Thought I would throw this frequent problem I have out there and see if I can get any suggestions.
I veg in UC Pro Tubs for about two weeks before I transplant the plants into a 13 Gallon UC system.Plants take right off in the Pro Tubs! Ive been vegging like this for 2 years now!But evey time I Transplant the plants,they quit uptaking nutrients for 7 to 14 days. And they start to take nutrients from the leaves and show signs of deficiencies. I am trying to figure out how to shorten this transplant shock or if I am doing something that is making this happen.

In the tubs :
-I start at 50-80ppm(500 scale) by week 2 Im at 140ppm and uptaking 50ppm every day or two
-ph 5.6-6.2
-67degrees
-65-70%Humidity
-Florecent lights
-No co2
-And they grow great!

Then in say two weeks I move them into a UC12/13gal
-I drop the ppm back down to about 80ppm
-Ph stays in range
-70%humidity
-HPS lights raised all the way up and turned down to 600 watts and half of them unpluged 2400watts
-CO2 at 1100ppm (co2 is outside the room)

Might be as simple as not running the co2 for the first couple weeks after I transplant?

Any thoughts would be apreciated! Thank you!

Almost forgot , Here are some pics:
Pic#1: How the plants start looking after about 5 or 6 days after transplant
Pic #2: You can see the UC Pro Tubs at the right of the room
Pic #3: How big the roots are when I transplant (Roots stay healthy after transplant)

 

[Toph420]

Honestly I feel like when I transplant into my uc there is about a week or so of transplant shock as well. Direct from turbo cloner though.. you using cultured solutions nutes?

 

[EventHorizan]

Thought I would throw this frequent problem I have out there and see if I can get any suggestions.
I veg in UC Pro Tubs for about two weeks before I transplant the plants into a 13 Gallon UC system.Plants take right off in the Pro Tubs! Ive been vegging like this for 2 years now!But evey time I Transplant the plants,they quit uptaking nutrients for 7 to 14 days. And they start to take nutrients from the leaves and show signs of deficiencies. I am trying to figure out how to shorten this transplant shock or if I am doing something that is making this happen.

In the tubs :
-I start at 50-80ppm(500 scale) by week 2 Im at 140ppm and uptaking 50ppm every day or two
-ph 5.6-6.2
-67degrees
-65-70%Humidity
-Florecent lights
-No co2
-And they grow great!

Then in say two weeks I move them into a UC12/13gal
-I drop the ppm back down to about 80ppm
-Ph stays in range
-70%humidity
-HPS lights raised all the way up and turned down to 600 watts and half of them unpluged 2400watts
-CO2 at 1100ppm (co2 is outside the room)

Might be as simple as not running the co2 for the first couple weeks after I transplant?

Any thoughts would be apreciated! Thank you!

Almost forgot , Here are some pics:
Pic#1: How the plants start looking after about 5 or 6 days after transplant
Pic #2: You can see the UC Pro Tubs at the right of the room
Pic #3: How big the roots are when I transplant (Roots stay healthy after transplant)
View attachment 746346
View attachment 746342 View attachment 746343

It looks like shock from too cold of water.
Whats water temp from UC PRO to the UC system?

 

[EventHorizan]

And i would use the water out the pro when you transplant and run a few days and then change out...

 

[EventHorizan]

Thought I would throw this frequent problem I have out there and see if I can get any suggestions.
I veg in UC Pro Tubs for about two weeks before I transplant the plants into a 13 Gallon UC system.Plants take right off in the Pro Tubs! Ive been vegging like this for 2 years now!But evey time I Transplant the plants,they quit uptaking nutrients for 7 to 14 days. And they start to take nutrients from the leaves and show signs of deficiencies. I am trying to figure out how to shorten this transplant shock or if I am doing something that is making this happen.

In the tubs :
-I start at 50-80ppm(500 scale) by week 2 Im at 140ppm and uptaking 50ppm every day or two
-ph 5.6-6.2
-67degrees
-65-70%Humidity
-Florecent lights
-No co2
-And they grow great!

Then in say two weeks I move them into a UC12/13gal
-I drop the ppm back down to about 80ppm
-Ph stays in range
-70%humidity
-HPS lights raised all the way up and turned down to 600 watts and half of them unpluged 2400watts
-CO2 at 1100ppm (co2 is outside the room)

Might be as simple as not running the co2 for the first couple weeks after I transplant?

Any thoughts would be apreciated! Thank you!

Almost forgot , Here are some pics:
Pic#1: How the plants start looking after about 5 or 6 days after transplant
Pic #2: You can see the UC Pro Tubs at the right of the room
Pic #3: How big the roots are when I transplant (Roots stay healthy after transplant)
View attachment 746346
View attachment 746342 View attachment 746343

Roots look real good as well as your room looks really clean and nice too!

 

[Dunge]

Based on your pic, I think you need to focus on what is killing the productivity capacity of your veg.
Those blond areas can't be good.
Here I am suggesting calcium spray twice in ten minutes.
And it can't hurt, can it?

 

[Tbone]

Thanks guys! This happens every time to me. I think its the environmental conditions, either Running co2 during transplant or maybe too much humidity closing the stomata. I think I will to try cutting the co2 to ambient levels next time (Try one thing at a time).
The water temp was 67degrees in both systems. I run cool coils on a chiller in my Tubs.I always try my best to mimic the environment from one system to the other. Using the Tubs water is a good thought but I would need close to 3 times as much water in the UC13.
The changes are :
Going from non recirculating to a circulating system , adding Co2, different lighting, and I lower the nute ppm's upon transplant for about a week

 

[Tbone]

I do occasionally use a foliar of calcium and mag and I also will use a foliar of Fulvex and Seaplex to help restart uptake . After they get through 7 to 10 after transplant they take off like no tommorrow. So yes , thats exactly what Im trying to do. speed up the plants adjusting to the new room so I dont loose a week of veg

 

[Toph420]

What if you don’t lower he nutes when you transplant? I feel like I was having nute deficiencies this round early on cause I was running my solution too low.. usually in dwc you have too much, but as soon as I started adding more I could see them taking off more & more

 

[EventHorizan]

Thanks guys! This happens every time to me. I think its the environmental conditions, either Running co2 during transplant or maybe too much humidity closing the stomata. I think I will to try cutting the co2 to ambient levels next time (Try one thing at a time).
The water temp was 67degrees in both systems. I run cool coils on a chiller in my Tubs.I always try my best to mimic the environment from one system to the other. Using the Tubs water is a good thought but I would need close to 3 times as much water in the UC13.
The changes are :
Going from non recirculating to a circulating system , adding Co2, different lighting, and I lower the nute ppm's upon transplant for about a week

I knew you would need more water going from one to the other after I said it.
I was really hoping that it was going from one water temp to the other.
Im eager to follow along and see what results you figure out!
you thing the harshness of the water flow messes with them when they been used to just hanging in a calm bucket?
U got a lil pump to throw in the solo to ruff up the roots a lil before transplanting?
This is a really good question that has an answer!

 

[Tbone]

Thats a thought, The water in the Pro tubes is pretty turbulant because they run at about 1.5lpm air. This bounces the water around pretty good but I have heard mention that going from a non circulating to a circulating system can have an effect. I could try a little pump in the Tubs next time maybe just drop it in a few days bewfore I move them.
Today the plants are starting to uptake nutrients. I think it took 7 days from them to adjust but I will double check when I grow on location.
I was running co2 at 1100ppm. At 1100ppm setting my co2 setup will run in a range between 1000 and 1300ppm. I brought co2 down and set it at 800 yesterday. But I dont think they started uptake because of this, rather it was just time for the plants to pull through the shock.
Anyway , I will try to stay up on this thread as I slowly try to improve this stall time.
Thanks for all the suggestions
One more thing: Pre veg in these Pro Tubs works great! The growth is amazing! But you have to start cuttings in the tubs with real low ppms ( Below 100) and in a few days roots are busting out the baskets.

 

[EventHorizan]

Thats a thought, The water in the Pro tubes is pretty turbulant because they run at about 1.5lpm air. This bounces the water around pretty good but I have heard mention that going from a non circulating to a circulating system can have an effect. I could try a little pump in the Tubs next time maybe just drop it in a few days bewfore I move them.
Today the plants are starting to uptake nutrients. I think it took 7 days from them to adjust but I will double check when I grow on location.
I was running co2 at 1100ppm. At 1100ppm setting my co2 setup will run in a range between 1000 and 1300ppm. I brought co2 down and set it at 800 yesterday. But I dont think they started uptake because of this, rather it was just time for the plants to pull through the shock.
Anyway , I will try to stay up on this thread as I slowly try to improve this stall time.
Thanks for all the suggestions
One more thing: Pre veg in these Pro Tubs works great! The growth is amazing! But you have to start cuttings in the tubs with real low ppms ( Below 100) and in a few days roots are busting out the baskets.

Awesome brother.. I try to keep tabs on you..
Good luck!

 

[Tbone]

Thought I would take a minute to post a resoponse I got from Current Culture:

A few small tweaks:

• If you were up to 150ppm in the PRO system you could be at 250-300ppm in your 13-gallon.
• I'd start at the same CO2 levels as in veg. If there is none in veg start with none then slowly increase.
• Humidity may be a bit high, consider 60-65%
• Water level could be 2" up net pit just under planting deck, it should be here in veg as well.
• Use a light meter to match light levels in both rooms
• Consider foliar spraying plants with b-vitamin or seaweed/kelp for the first couple days

 

[Tonydizz]

I think putting plants under 2400w right away is a huge mistake. Going from fluros to that is a huge shock no wonder they stall.

You need to develop a root system in the buckets first before you blast them with light. I'd start with just 1 x 600 first and turn more lights on as they develop. I go from turbo cloner right into the UC and mine barely stall.

 

[Tbone]

To clarify, I go from the clone machine to UC Pro tubs under flourecents for a couple weeks as a pre veg. I struggle with transplant shock when I move these plants that have now developed a good root structure to a larger system/room to veg. I usually go from the UC Pro Tubs to a 10 gallon system to veg and then move them again to another room with a 13 gallon system to flower. But sometimes I skip the veg room if the flower room is available and just finish off vegging in the flower room.

About a week ago i moved 12 plants from the Pro Tubs to a veg room with 3- 600 watt Matal Halides. I took a light meter and adjusted the lights so the lux was similar to the flourecents. As it turned out I had to move the lights down from where I usually start them to achieve this (This is a different room than I was using earlier in the thread).
I also left the CO2 off and duplicated the environment that the plants came from as close as possible, and the good news is Plants took right off!!

I really think it was going from a room with no co2 to a room that was running a co2 generator at 1200ppm, But maybe it was also a light issue contributing .

Anyway , heres a pic of a plant that was moved about 5 or 6 days ago. Doing fine!
I think the bottom line when transplanting from UC to UC is to make sure you duplicate the prior rooms environment as close as possible.
Hopefully , Ive resolved this now! Cant wait to try another "no stall transplant"!
Thanks everyone for the help.

 

[EventHorizan]

I think putting plants under 2400w right away is a huge mistake. Going from fluros to that is a huge shock no wonder they stall.

You need to develop a root system in the buckets first before you blast them with light. I'd start with just 1 x 600 first and turn more lights on as they develop. I go from turbo cloner right into the UC and mine barely stall.

When you go from turbo cloner to Net pot do you just set your clone on the inverted cone and let the roots hang down.
Or do you fill in the net pot with hydroton up to bottom of inverted cone and put the clone in on top of inverted clone with roots spread out like a umbrella...
Or does that even matter?

 

[EventHorizan]

To clarify, I go from the clone machine to UC Pro tubs under flourecents for a couple weeks as a pre veg. I struggle with transplant shock when I move these plants that have now developed a good root structure to a larger system/room to veg. I usually go from the UC Pro Tubs to a 10 gallon system to veg and then move them again to another room with a 13 gallon system to flower. But sometimes I skip the veg room if the flower room is available and just finish off vegging in the flower room.

About a week ago i moved 12 plants from the Pro Tubs to a veg room with 3- 600 watt Matal Halides. I took a light meter and adjusted the lights so the lux was similar to the flourecents. As it turned out I had to move the lights down from where I usually start them to achieve this (This is a different room than I was using earlier in the thread).
I also left the CO2 off and duplicated the environment that the plants came from as close as possible, and the good news is Plants took right off!!

I really think it was going from a room with no co2 to a room that was running a co2 generator at 1200ppm, But maybe it was also a light issue contributing .

Anyway , heres a pic of a plant that was moved about 5 or 6 days ago. Doing fine!
I think the bottom line when transplanting from UC to UC is to make sure you duplicate the prior rooms environment as close as possible.
Hopefully , Ive resolved this now! Cant wait to try another "no stall transplant"!
Thanks everyone for the help.
View attachment 750753

Awesome! We learned a little!

 

[Tbone]

I let my roots get 8-12 inches long in the clone machine. Then I will toss a few grow stones in the bottom of the basket. Just enough grow stones to cover about 3/4 of the floor of the basket. Then I drape the roots so they hang over the baskets planting deck in all directions. I pretty much let the stalk sit lightly right on the deck, then I gently fill the net pot to the top with grow stones.

 

[EventHorizan]

I let my roots get 8-12 inches long in the clone machine. Then I will toss a few grow stones in the bottom of the basket. Just enough grow stones to cover about 3/4 of the floor of the basket. Then I drape the roots so they hang over the baskets planting deck in all directions. I pretty much let the stalk sit lightly right on the deck, then I gently fill the net pot to the top with grow stones.

Awesome bro!

 

[Highatollah]

• Water level could be 2" up net pit just under planting deck, it should be here in veg as well.

Did they actually say all of veg? Their blog says to put water level just under the planting deck for only the first week and then to lower it below the pot bottom.