trying to find a nutrient schedule that works for sure.

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cannafarmer420

cannafarmer420

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15 years of growing.
Yea I see you have good plants, you have some skills for sure. I feel like strictly following vpd is what will get you mold. I completely ignore it, if my temp and humidity are right that's all I worry about ✌
 
cannafarmer420

cannafarmer420

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Cool. Just a fyi VPD is based on temp and humidity…if you take it the extra mile you also include leaf temp.

Your basically doing VPD watching anyway.
Yea I understand it, I just think the charts are too varied and utter nonsense. You being a veteran have common sense and wont ruin your crop with it so you are fine. But the plant outdoors is at the mercy of the climate it evolves in so a generic Vpd chart just doesn't make much sense to me. If we had some vpd charts by area by cultivar then maybe. But will have to agree to disagree and like I always say, there are many ways to grow the dank ✌
 
dextr0

dextr0

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Yea I understand it, I just think the charts are too varied and utter nonsense. You being a veteran have common sense and wont ruin your crop with it so you are fine. But the plant outdoors is at the mercy of the climate it evolves in so a generic Vpd chart just doesn't make much sense to me. If we had some vpd charts by area by cultivar then maybe. But will have to agree to disagree and like I always say, there are many ways to grow the dank ✌
That’s a trash thought. Literally if I see people with mold in their grow I’m willing to bet that their VPD is off.

Every grow I go to.

Outdoor plants get fucked when VPD is off outdoors. Some can handle it better but a lot don’t.

If ANYONE is looking to better utilize their nutrients and plant uptake that’s a good way to do it. Proper VPD changes grows for the better I’ve seen it time and time again (I live in Denver so I see lots of grows).

Look at all the different things VPD effects. To say that’s not important is something else.
 
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cannafarmer420

cannafarmer420

I ♥ Indica
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That’s a trash thought. Literally if I see people with mold in their grow I’m willing to bet that their VPD is off.

Every grow I go to.

Outdoor plants get fucked when VPD is off outdoors. Some can handle it better but a lot don’t.

If ANYONE is looking to better utilize their nutrients and plant uptake that’s a good way to do it. Proper VPD changes grows for the better I’ve seen it time and time again (I live in Denver so I see lots of grows).

Look at all the different things VPD effects. To say that’s not important is something else.
Alright "all omnipotent one" 👍 whatever you say
 
LoveGrowingIt

LoveGrowingIt

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VPD is crap imo
Because you mentioned it... I don't want to restart the debate. I just don't understand why the controversy exists. Why is it a debate? If someone doesn't want to use it, that's fine, but why discourage curiosity? Why not simply explain it and let the grower decide? Most of us probably do what we want anyway.

Edit: A lot of posts happened while I was writing this. I'm too slow, I guess.
 
skyhighmontana

skyhighmontana

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Not hep on all the VDP stuff. I run a large size dehumidifier and I still stay around 45 to 50 percent all the time. I grow large plants. If I catch any signs of mold it's only towards the end and I trim the plant. Most I've ever lost is a few ounces. If your growing something that's topping out in double digits you can afford the hit. I just move on to a new strain that will fit the system. You got to understand that I have been apart of some pretty high tech grows. I've grown pound +plants under 1000w hps lights where the humidity stayed at 30 to 35%. So I do know from constant dedicated growing in multiple environments that humidity is just oh so hum when it comes to indoor growing. Comes down to weather your shit molds or not in your system. There are thousands of strains, why fight so much for something that means so little? Just try another type.. and here are a few of my recent beauties under my LEDs.. been growing non stop for more then a few and I've only had a couple of mold instances,that's quite a few plants and lots of different strains.. alot of plants.. just not much of a big deal indoors as long as you keep it under a certain level. And here at the end of those photos is how I start all those beauties. Never seen it on any of these sites. I learned from a guy who grew at a high level for half a century. If you get the whole cola theory you can grasp what I'm doing with the plant.
 
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Northdank67

Northdank67

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I myself have leaf temps 2-2.5c lower than the room temp, vpd dialed except i may get some swing during lights off. I don't think its much effort to get a ir temp meter and measure the leaf temps, and raise / lower your lights until u get the leaf temps where u want them to be. much more effort trying to dial in the growq room temp if u dont have ac and even then you're wasting electricity if u have the ac on auto and it keeps cooling and heating cooling and heating to the exact temp u set it to.
 
Northdank67

Northdank67

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Not hep on all the VDP stuff. I run a large size dehumidifier and I still stay around 45 to 50 percent all the time. I grow large plants. If I catch any signs of mold it's only towards the end and I trim the plant. Most I've ever lost is a few ounces. If your growing something that's topping out in double digits you can afford the hit. I just move on to a new strain that will fit the system. You got to understand that I have been apart of some pretty high tech grows. I've grown pound +plants under 1000w hps lights where the humidity stayed at 30 to 35%. So I do know from constant dedicated growing in multiple environments that humidity is just oh so hum when it comes to indoor growing. Comes down to weather your shit molds or not in your system. There are thousands of strains, why fight so much for something that means so little? Just try another type.. and here are a few of my recent beauties under my LEDs.. been growing non stop for more then a few and I've only had a couple of mold instances,that's quite a few plants and lots of different strains.. alot of plants.. just not much of a big deal indoors as long as you keep it under a certain level. And here at the end of those photos is how I start all those beauties. Never seen it on any of these sites. I learned from a guy who grew at a high level for half a century. If you get the whole cola theory you can grasp what I'm doing with the plant.
looks like a 2month veg, little low stress training and topping with a really heavy lollipopping right before flip to me. nothing fancy. i think you could acheve the same result by just having more plants with shorter veg and you wouldn't even have to lollipop that much imo. that being said how you grow is purely opinion based, if not debating about whats actual factual like nutes, and climate.
 
PooToe

PooToe

159
43
That’s a trash thought. Literally if I see people with mold in their grow I’m willing to bet that their VPD is off.

Every grow I go to.

Outdoor plants get fucked when VPD is off outdoors. Some can handle it better but a lot don’t.

If ANYONE is looking to better utilize their nutrients and plant uptake that’s a good way to do it. Proper VPD changes grows for the better I’ve seen it time and time again (I live in Denver so I see lots of grows).

Look at all the different things VPD effects. To say that’s not important is something else.
Alright "all omnipotent one" 👍 whatever you say
Because you mentioned it... I don't want to restart the debate. I just don't understand why the controversy exists. Why is it a debate? If someone doesn't want to use it, that's fine, but why discourage curiosity? Why not simply explain it and let the grower decide? Most of us probably do what we want anyway.

Edit: A lot of posts happened while I was writing this. I'm too slow, I guess.
From what I know of VPD I'll say this.

In small tents, like 3 x 3 and under, VPD is not all that important. Can it be used? Certainly, but small tents can change their environments very quickly so if I'm going to be monitoring VPD in a 3 x 3 or smaller I'll monitor the lung room as a tent that small will pretty much mimic the lung room specs. Anything larger, then, the importance of VPD starts to come into play in a much more serious way. In other words the larger the space the more important VPD plays into it.

Will it improve your grow? VPD is only one of many factors that will affect your grow. As we all know, we can have one part of the grow equation going perfect but if the others aren't? Personally, I pay attention to VPD but I'm not a slave to it. If my VPD numbers are spot on but my growth rates are slower than I'm accustomed to then I'll do whatever I need to to get them back on track. I've done runs where VPD is in the danger zone practically the whole time and done well with it but, generally, I try and stay within VPD parameters. BTW, IMO, VPD means nothing without leaf temp readings. I consider leaf temp more important as a data point than air temp. Leaf to air temp differentials will tell me how efficient photosynthesis is happening.

My anectdotal observations tell me that respecting VPD will increase your dry weights over the course of time. I've also observed that when I run inside my VPD parameters flower tends to be all around better both taste and effect. Again, these are my personal observations so don't take them as fact.
 
Northdank67

Northdank67

27
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From what I know of VPD I'll say this.

In small tents, like 3 x 3 and under, VPD is not all that important. Can it be used? Certainly, but small tents can change their environments very quickly so if I'm going to be monitoring VPD in a 3 x 3 or smaller I'll monitor the lung room as a tent that small will pretty much mimic the lung room specs. Anything larger, then, the importance of VPD starts to come into play in a much more serious way. In other words the larger the space the more important VPD plays into it.

Will it improve your grow? VPD is only one of many factors that will affect your grow. As we all know, we can have one part of the grow equation going perfect but if the others aren't? Personally, I pay attention to VPD but I'm not a slave to it. If my VPD numbers are spot on but my growth rates are slower than I'm accustomed to then I'll do whatever I need to to get them back on track. I've done runs where VPD is in the danger zone practically the whole time and done well with it but, generally, I try and stay within VPD parameters. BTW, IMO, VPD means nothing without leaf temp readings. I consider leaf temp more important as a data point than air temp. Leaf to air temp differentials will tell me how efficient photosynthesis is happening.

My anectdotal observations tell me that respecting VPD will increase your dry weights over the course of time. I've also observed that when I run inside my VPD parameters flower tends to be all around better both taste and effect. Again, these are my personal observations so don't take them as fact.
that's well said!
 
skyhighmontana

skyhighmontana

21
3
looks like a 2month veg, little low stress training and topping with a really heavy lollipopping right before flip to me. nothing fancy. i think you could acheve the same result by just having more plants with shorter veg and you wouldn't even have to lollipop that much imo. that being said how you grow is purely opinion based, if not debating about whats actual factual like nutes, and climate.
I do things all legal like nowadays and in my state we only get 4 per house hold in flower.. so I try for the biggest bang for my buck. Big plants in small spaces. I grow from cuttings. Takes a month to a month and a half. That lollipop is the only thing I found to compare. But I nixed it because of diameter issues. I use mykos and the smorgasbord of advanced nutrients fertilizers, run a 100% and a 50 % chop solution on feeding days. Got out from under the grip of bud factor x once I found chitosan and then brassinolide took it over the top. If I could legally grow more,I would .. I smoke steady.
 
PooToe

PooToe

159
43
I do things all legal like nowadays and in my state we only get 4 per house hold in flower.. so I try for the biggest bang for my buck. Big plants in small spaces. I grow from cuttings. Takes a month to a month and a half. That lollipop is the only thing I found to compare. But I nixed it because of diameter issues. I use mykos and the smorgasbord of advanced nutrients fertilizers, run a 100% and a 50 % chop solution on feeding days. Got out from under the grip of bud factor x once I found chitosan and then brassinolide took it over the top. If I could legally grow more,I would .. I smoke steady.
I also grow from cuttings I take from Mother plants. I find scrogging to produce the most dry weight in respect to the square footage I have as far as a grow space. I don't use many amendments other than cal/mag throughout. The first couple weeks, once seeds have popped and have roots or I'm watering in a clone, I'll feed a solution of Voodoo Juice from AN to get the microbial colony going along with some Hormex to help boost root production and a weak solution of base. like maybe 200 - 300 ppm. Once I get the early veg plants into their final homes, maybe a couple weeks after I initially planted them in solos, I'll add in some mycorrhizae to the transplant hole and water them in with some more Hormex to ease transplant shock, one more dose of VJ and raise the base PPM to around 500. I'll continue raising the PPM around 100ppm every other feeding unless the girls are really taking off then I'll raise it every feeding until I get to 1200ppm. I'll continue to feed only grow base and cal/mag until it's time to flip them which is usually around 3 weeks. About a week before flip I'll blend both grow and bloom formulas for a couple of feedings then go back to just Bloom formula after flip. After week 6 I'll do the same grow/bloom blend a couple more feeds then go back to just bloom. After week 8 I'll start tapering down the PPM 200 points every week until I get to just water or Trichomes are telling me it's time.

This next time around I'm going to start using a product that has both Fulvic and Humic acid to increase ion uptake and help with buffering pH.

After having worked in numerous legal grow operations I've learned that most amendments are snake oil for tent growers which is why I stick to essentially just base. For production growers it's another story as even a small bump in dry weight is a big deal but for tent growers you won't see much of a difference. A lot of these amendments that make big claims were originally targeted at production growers so, again, for tent growers you aren't going to see much improvement that makes it worth the price.
 
M

monkey47

99
18
I think I had mentioned it to the guy I'd originally posted on his thread. Let's just put it this way.
I had been growing for years at what some would consider a high level. The bud factor x was breaking my back. So I found chitosan- which is actually far better and faster then x. Immediate. Then I got hooked up with some guy at powergrown.com and he literally rocked my world when he introduced me to the brassinolide.. got to use it with the chitosan tho to get the full meal deal. You will see your plant grow in ways you didn't think possible, no shit. Every thing extra you see going on is nothing but creating new and more flower point. I have gone 10 days past with ease,still milky. Pretty sure a guy can control his own window of flower time using this stuff,no shit. I used that shit on a Pineapple chunk plant under 1000w hps in a inclosed space,no co2. Been growing it for years so I have comparability. Most I can get no gas was 8 ounces. First time I used the brassinolide with the chitosan I had a 12 and a half ounce plant, no shit. I pulled it around day 70 with about 70 percent still rocking
You got a 50% increase in yield by using different nutrients ? BULLsh ALLERT
 

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