UC + ChillKing 2HP, pics?

  • Thread starter BCrocker
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BCrocker

BCrocker

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Hey guys, I am setting up my chillking 2hp water chiller to my UC. I would like to see some pics on how you guys plumbed this and possible some detaisl, ie. type of pump , size of lines etc. As I understand you need to use a coolcoil in the epicenter to get this to work properly.
 
woodsmaneh

woodsmaneh

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I run 2 chillers 1/2 hp and 1 hp, they are both plumbed the same, direct to the epicenter. I don't use coils yet. Check out my signature on how I set my up.
 
lava

lava

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dude, i have a chillking 2hp. First thing you need to do is read everything on hydro innovations website in the faq section. That should answer 95% of your questions. For the other 5%, call lucus at hydro farms, he knows his shit.

Here is my coil in the epic
New-Epic-1.jpg


On the back wall in this pic you can see my manifold
UC.jpg
 
BCrocker

BCrocker

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Thanks for the pics. I have a coil from a local shop here, maybe it is just too big for the 13gallon module. I probably need a custom coil.
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

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2 Ton ChillKing chills EVERYTHING! Money Saved.

Thanks for the pics. I have a coil from a local shop here, maybe it is just too big for the 13gallon module. I probably need a custom coil.

Here's a good place to source your chiller coil. Fits in a 5 gallon bucket, so it should fit anything bigger:

http://www.nybrewsupply.com/products/wort-chiller-stainless-steel-immersion.php

If you feel you need all the controller gear, then go to hydro innovations and get their kit:



A few pieces of advice: I've seen the Iceflow boxes hooked up to cool ducted outlets from hoods all the time, and I think it's a serious waste of effort- and power. Instead, just run outside air through your vented hoods, and then back out of the room through an inline fan. Make sure the fan PULLS air thru the hoods, pushing adds enough heat to make it not worthwhile. In other words, don't actively cool the hood air, just get it out of the room.

If you're gonna cool with your chiller- and I highly recommend you do- use fans to blow room air through the Iceflow boxes. Just attach your fan to blow through the Iceflow box, mount both to the ceiling, and you're chillin' the growroom. In order to effectively manage temps, you'll want a thermostat. I highly recommend the one from the hydro innovations people, as it's designed to specifically balance the fan speed with the temperature in the room:



Using manifolds to send water where you want it is a GREAT idea, don't try to set things up without them. Be certain that whatever manifold you buy or build it has valves on all the ports so you can isolate any circuit and maintain/repair it without having to shut the whole system down. It comes in damn handy, trust me on this.

Use a big reservoir. I use a 55 gallon drum and it's working out well. Do not try to use a pump meant for hydro or aquarium use; they're too flimsy. Go to the big orange box and get a 1/2 hp Flotec pump, or go to Hydro Innovations for an even better one:



Quick install tip here; do not use flimsy hose to get water to the inlet side of your pump; it will get sucked flat, kill your waterflow and cause the pump to cavitate, which will quickly destroy it! Use stiff reinforced tubing, or PVC.

Start with a large diameter hose (I use 1" ID) off the outlet side of your pump. When you split that into lines to go to various manifolds (I'm currently running two sets, will add another set when I add my second bloom room on the flip), those can be serviced with cheaper 3/4" hose. Each line from your manifold to a piece of gear can be 1/2". The idea is to keep your flow rates up throughout the system.

Yes, it will take some planning and a fair amount of work to set things up. Once you do, it will be dead simple to run it, and you will be saving a small fortune in costs over AC. Money Saved. It has inherently better flexibility than AC, since of course AC units can't cool water- and as if that weren't enough, this is the hands down best solution to cooling several rooms. Money Saved. And, you'll be able to reconfigure the system on the fly to handle whatever expansions you may have in the future. Money Saved.

Oh, and one more thing; when you get the hang of this, you'll start to seriously consider some other power saving ideas, like;

1. putting your Chillking inside your house for the winter, and the heat it puts off will warm your home. Money Saved.

2. running some waterlines outside to either another radiator or an old AC compressor, where the cold weather will cool your water WITHOUT a compressor section running at all. This is called FREE COOLING. Money Saved.

Oh yeah, did I mention all the ways your new Chillking unit will save you money?
 
BCrocker

BCrocker

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Hi thanks for the good info here.

I will be just cooling off my uc system with this 2HP chillking. I have a coil I am just not sure if I will need more than one to cool the 270 gallons in the system.. I will get it all fired up this week under full load. I will go buy a 1/2HP pump for the chiller tomorrow :)
 
lava

lava

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i have a 1/3hp hydro innovations pump that runs to my 2hp chiller, 4 ice boxes, and 4 coils. These new pumps are more energy efficient than the flotec ones. If you are only running 1-2 coils, a 1/2hp pump is overkill. Even a 1/4hp pump is overkill imho.
 
BCrocker

BCrocker

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I think I might need two coils for the 24site 13 gallon. I am not sure if the 1 coil can cool 270ish gallons!

The veg room will have two flood and drain tables hooked up to the same 85 gallon reseovir. I am hoping that I can cool the 270 gallon UC and the 85 gallon with the 2HP unit. If not, I can get another smaller chiller for the veg room.
 
BCrocker

BCrocker

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ttystikk,

Speaking of running water lines to the outside to cool water.. I just though of a great idea I can do with my outdoor pond / indoor garden, and shed!!
 
lava

lava

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yeah BCrocker, do a little research on geothermal cooling. Running water lines into a pond is the cheap form.
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

6,892
313
I think I might need two coils for the 24site 13 gallon. I am not sure if the 1 coil can cool 270ish gallons!

The veg room will have two flood and drain tables hooked up to the same 85 gallon reseovir. I am hoping that I can cool the 270 gallon UC and the 85 gallon with the 2HP unit. If not, I can get another smaller chiller for the veg room.

Your 2 Ton chiller is overkill for just cooling a couple of DWC systems. Properly set up, it can cool up to 16-20 hoods (8-10 at a time on a flip schedule), PLUS many RDWC systems of many hundreds of gallons, plus ancillaries. The 1/3 HP pump is going to be plenty and then some for just a few circuits to cool UC, but I'll be that once you start playing with the system, you'll find more things to do with it. I know I did- and still am.

Look up the links I gave you above to the ny brew supply website- that big stainless 50' coil will have loads of surface area for cooling that kind of water volume. The keys will be whether it fits in the system where you want it to go, and making sure the water in the RDWC system is moving past those coils fast enough to actively transfer the heat.

ttystikk,

Speaking of running water lines to the outside to cool water.. I just though of a great idea I can do with my outdoor pond / indoor garden, and shed!!

Oh yeah, this is definitely the kind of thing I was alluding to- the possibilities for cooling things with your chiller and little helper tweaks like this are endless!
 
BCrocker

BCrocker

428
28
UPDATE: I hooked up the 2HP chillking last night. A temporary hookup till I plan out what I want to chill with it exactly. I will be building a manifold this week.

Currently it is chilling my 24 site 13 gallon UC.. It seems to be more like 300 gallons in there than my estimated 275, I didn't take the volume of the 3" PVC into account.

Anyhow, the unit is keeping it at a constant 62 in the Epi. The coil I have isn't completely covered by all the water either. I have a differnet one on the way. I will be getting some thermostats to be placed in the end sites as well. Just want to see if it is 62 at the end, or 65. It is currently in a room with the window open getting much fresh air.

It cycles and doesn't run constantly at all. I tested the return line to the res... It seems to be only returning at 3-4 gpm. This is just a "1/2 hp" sump pump. Clearly it is the wrong pump for the job. I am looking at purchasing a 1/2hp ReeFlo pump.
 
C

ChillMaster

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Testing a 3.5 HP unit; First room will use a 8" Trunk, 10" Q Max Fan with three 8" IceBoxes. Room is 5' x 8'
 
MurderVille

MurderVille

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You can also use a standard central AC to accomplish this and save thousands. Hydro innovations units are great in concept and quality, but seriously overpriced.

As far as building a manifold, think of it like a fire prevention sprinkler system.
 
C

ChillMaster

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3
Agreed on the overpricing by HI! Central A/C would work too but already had much invested into the water cooling. I ended up going with a unit from chillking that was 3.5 HP and half the cost of the HI 2HP unit.
 
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