Upgrade time got a couple Qs

[BudGoggles]

Im in the process of upgrading my 10x12 room
Everything is torn down and ready to rebuild

Im upgrading from a vented room to a sealed co2 environment
This will be the first time Im running sealed so Im gonna need a few pointers on gear.
Ill be running 4k with xxxl magnums without the glass

So far this is what Im planning to get by next week
4 1k dimmable quantum ballast 240v
18k btu mini split
sentinel cppm-1 co2 controller
2 20# aluminum co2 tanks and regulator
Titan helios 3 4 light controller

I have about $300 - $400 budget for a dehumidifier and Im not sure on what to get. Ill probably get a 70 pint from homedepot or something. Is there any recommendations on a decent one to get in that price range???

If theres anything in the list thats not good let me know what ya think.

Ill be running 2 8xl UnderCurrents and Ill be veggin & blooming in the room. Chillers, air pumps, ballast, water rez, controllers will all be outside the room.

There will be a full thread on the grow once I fire up the room and Ill throw a few pics up in here as I go on the build
Any help is greatly appreciated
Thanks
BG

 

[WalterWhiteFire]

Sounds like a sick design/build dude! 18k btu is just enough to cool the lights so if it gets extra hot outside it could struggle to do what you need. What material will the walls be? You will need a SHITLOAD of air movement the more fans the better esp up near the ceiling where the hot air will build up. I have a 250 pt dehuey that's bucketless it pumps the water out of my room up to 15ft. I ordered of the Home depot website for around 300 i think. I have the Helios 3, i hardwired it my self, i really like it. I have the sentinel CHHC4 its dope you will like yours! Look into the Solis tek ballasts, they have internal timers so you wouldnt even need a light controller. Adjust-a-wings would be a smart upgrade after this run. Go with a 2 ton mini split. My two cents. Good Luck, i look forward to seeing this come together.

 

[BudGoggles]

Thanks for the insite
The reason Im getting this split is Im buying it from a friend and its already setup with a heat pump for our cold winters, its also brand new for a killer price. The rooms in a basement and im thinking it will work out if not Ill sell it on CL and get a bigger one.
I plan to have a wall fan on every wall pushing air. Im getting a killer deal on the quantums so it would be stupid if I didnt buy them

Thanks again
BG

 

[WalterWhiteFire]

Sounds good mang. Insulate everything you possibly can. Fir out and insulate any concrete walls. Expanding foam in the spray can is your freind. Also didn't see a scrubber on your list...

 

[ttystikk]

I run magnum xxxl 'ocho' hoods with the glass, sealed and vented. They work great, and keep things much cooler than otherwise. My two cents would be to go ahead and plumb these to vent the heat. For a sealed room, that means srawing your air in from outside the room, pulling it through the hoods (never push!), and then exhausting the hot air outside the room- and in hot weather, just outside. This will give you some all-important excess capacity for your minisplit, to help guard against unforeseen heat sources.

You might be amazed at how much less you spend on electricity doing it the way I suggested, and until you have your room very well dialed in, you'll never notice any 'loss' from having the glass in the hoods. Just keep that glass nice n clean...

 

[fishwhistle]

Walter and tty's posts are right on the money,i prefer no glass but ttys right about the extra cooling you will get and maybe need with the 18k btu split.I run 4k rooms with aaw's and a 24k split,co2 and it cools great and im in a extreme area,100+ highs and 20-30's lows.I also run the solis ballasts BUT quantums kick ass also.

 

[WalterWhiteFire]

Some of the xxxl hoods don't seal worth a damn depending on the era. The newer ones with the swinging door seal pretty well. But the older model where the glass slides in from the side won't seal good enough to run in a sealed room, unless you tape them. Which is ghetto and a pain in the ass.

 

[BudGoggles]

Thanks guys

Walter the walls are already rocked and insulated. Im in the middle of framing the ceiling and Im gonna insulate and rock that as well. Im going to use an exterior door with threshold to seal it up tight. I also already have a new 8" phresh filter for scrubbing.

TT I really dont want to vent the hoods I have the older hoods and they leak like a siv. If the A/C cant keep up Ill vent em if I have to. I was running a passive in and out with a 5k window unit and vented 3k and it wouldnt get over 85 in the summer so Im hoping this works.

Anything that will produce heat will be outside the room

Any other thoughts on a dehu

Thanks again
BG

 

[Prime C]

just dont buy a cheap one. you get what ya pay for. 18 k split should do just fine especially if ya in the basement. Of course our weather has been HOTT. So what strains ya gonna run BG?

 

[WalterWhiteFire]

Plywood is far superior for sealed rooms in comparison to Sheetrock. And you can put screws in anywhere. Magnetic seals on the exterior doors work awesome.

 

[BudGoggles]

I think its a $1600 unit and Im getting it much cheaper
For a strain I have 20 flo cuts in the cloner but they aint doing so hot. I might scrap them out and take some cuts off a lone sourbubble momma I got outside, treat for bugs and throw them in

As for sheetrock Ill be finishing it off and painting everything with a anti fungal flat white . I think it will hold a seal pretty good considering its not going to have any seams or cracks and 2 coats of paint

 

[half baked]

http://www.orcagrowfilm.com/

hey bro, was shown a roll of this stuff at my local hydro shop and i gotta say brightest stuff id seen to date, thankfully the guys set up a light i use to show me the difference, i couldnt look near it hahaha

hb

 

[Papa]

Plywood is far superior for sealed rooms in comparison to Sheetrock. And you can put screws in anywhere.

i put plywood on the studs first, and then sheetrock over, mud, primer, then latex. it's great to be able to screw anything anywhere . . . . especially on the ceiling.

'lots of threads on dehueys. i have the LG 70 pint that a lot of folks run. it does its work well. i also run an artic king, which i wouldn't rely upon.

i don't think i'm familiar with this 250 pt unit that WalterWhiteFire mentioned. i'd like to know more. i think the dehuey and humidifier issues are the weak spot of a lot of these sealed rooms. TrichromeFan seems to have figured out the dehuey option that's best, but it's $$. i'd bet that the proper humidifier solution is going to be a commercial unit that's $$ as well.

 

[BudGoggles]

Im laying out all the frame work on the ceiling so Im gonna have extra studs where I want em. I wont hang a fan and filter screwed into just plywood.
Is the ply wood really gonna help seal it?? the sheetrock, tape, mud and paint wont do it alone???? The walls are done tight way over kill
So that 70 pint LG at homedepot is fine???

Thanks
BG

 

[WalterWhiteFire]

i put plywood on the studs first, and then sheetrock over, mud, primer, then latex. it's great to be able to screw anything anywhere . . . . especially on the ceiling.

'lots of threads on dehueys. i have the LG 70 pint that a lot of folks run. it does its work well. i also run an artic king, which i wouldn't rely upon.

i don't think i'm familiar with this 250 pt unit that WalterWhiteFire mentioned. i'd like to know more. i think the dehuey and humidifier issues are the weak spot of a lot of these sealed rooms. TrichromeFan seems to have figured out the dehuey option that's best, but it's $$. i'd bet that the proper humidifier solution is going to be a commercial unit that's $$ as well.

I agree with you 100%. RH is a total weak spot for sealed rooms. I spend as much time working with the RH as i do with the plants haha. I totally mis-spoke about the capacity of my dehuey. Not sure how i came up with that number, but i checked and its a 55pt. Apologies on the FIB. Bucketless is AWESOME tho. I hooked up the drain tube to my humidifier so it fills it over night.

Im laying out all the frame work on the ceiling so Im gonna have extra studs where I want em. I wont hang a fan and filter screwed into just plywood.
Is the ply wood really gonna help seal it?? the sheetrock, tape, mud and paint wont do it alone???? The walls are done tight way over kill
So that 70 pint LG at homedepot is fine???

Thanks
BG

I Think that multiple layers of wood and glue is much less permeable than some soft rock and paper. Did you use the greenboard atleast? The moisture resistant stuff for bathrooms. I used toggle bolts to hang all my heavy stuff.

 

[Papa]

the benefit of the ply on the walls/ceiling is that you can put a screw in anywhere and don't have to work around where the joists are. 5/8" on the walls and 3/4" on the ceiling . . . and you'll be able to hang anything you've got without thinking about whether or not you've hit a stud. the thicker the ply the more it'll help with noise as well.

regarding the air seal . . . i don't think ply helps much. think of a balloon. it doesn't have to be thick, it has to be impervious and continuous. balloons are latex . . . . that's what the paint gives us. when your room is sealed up tighter than a frog's ass you'll use less than a 20# tank for a run in a hundred sq. ft. room.

btw, i've always seen the drywall pros hang the sheetrock on the ceiling first and the walls after. i've assumed it was because you can get a tighter joint between the two . . . . and if you use the green board, the pros use it on the walls only and not the ceiling.

good luck with the build. i'm sure we all wanna see pics.

 

[BudGoggles]

Thanks guys
Ill get some pics next visit