Uv Sterilizer Recommendations...

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slimjimham

slimjimham

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Looking for recommendations on uv filters, i use low ppm tap water (30, 500 scale)and ideally I'd like up just hook the uv filter up to a standard garden hose so it's sterilized before i use it (that's the source of my water). Is that possible for it to just make one pass and be sterilized?

I recently tested my water and it came back negative for bacteria (watersafe hydro kit on amazon) but i just noticed a bunch of slime on the walls of my gh covert 66 gallon res that i only keep plain water in...

someone else mentioned they had a prob worth the gh covert tanks worth slime but i can't imagine is have the issue of my water was clean.... what do you think?
 
motherlode

motherlode

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is light getting into the tank?
 
slimjimham

slimjimham

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I didn't think so but it's got a zipper top, so prob some light
 
DapperDon

DapperDon

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MGRox

MGRox

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One of the best Mfg for UV pretty much in the world is Aqua Ultraviolet. They make their own bulbs in house and are Excellent products.

http://www.aquaultraviolet.com/products/uvsterilizers/classic-aquarium
(they also make industrial and commercial units too)

It's been waaaaay to long since I've done the calculations for flow rate vs UV dose, so I'd have to break out the formulas to say for sure; Though I usually ran them with single pass sterilization. One easy tip if you use Aqua UV, is to run 1/4 of the flow rate they show (max). If I remember it right then, 1/4 of rated flow was either a single pass dose or was fully sterilized within 1 hour (1 hour would have been considering the 300 gallon system volume and time for 99% sterilization).

(Example: The Aqua UV sterilizer @ 25 watts shows 400 gph max [90,000 uw/cm2], so you would flow a maximum of 100 gph through it. The pondmaster should be around 75 gph for similar dose)
(you could even use the Aqua UV 15w @ 58 gph)
Looking above at the pondmaster; they might very well be made by Aqua UV and private labeled for Pondmaster (I know they do offer this service too).
 
slimjimham

slimjimham

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Just by doing a quick check those aquauv ones seem to be over 2x as expensive for the 40w, $160 compared to $400
 
MGRox

MGRox

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They offer a "economy" version that is probably closer to comparing; if you are concerned about cost.
http://www.aquaultraviolet.com/products/uvsterilizers/advantage-aquarium
The advantage series


15W = 100.00 (so 58 gph flow rate)

Edit: each series improves housing longevity (and /or) quartz sleeve quality (and/or) bulb quality; along with most series having an "optional" wiper to clean the sleeve without dis-assembly (excluding advantage series).
 
slimjimham

slimjimham

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Is it unreasonable to think if I went with the pond master 40w uv, one pass on a danner mag drive pump @750gph it would kill any nasty stuff in the water...

Ideally I'd rather just run one pass through the uv as I'm pumping it out of the res...

I'm also thinking about putting 1ml bleach in my 60 gallon res to help too... Just not sure if it's a good idea and if it has any effect on the uc roots

I'm leaning towards pond master because dollar to dollar the wattage is way higher on the pond master it looks like
 
DapperDon

DapperDon

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The way that UV works best it to give it sufficient time to sit inside the reaction chamber to be bombarded with UV. So what you will want to do is get an airstone an air pump and a small 40 gph submersible pump and attach it to the Pondmaster and then place those all into your water tank making sure that the exit end of the UV is pointing upward to create a flooming effect. After you fill it up, turn them on and give it 24 hours for city chlorine and other shit in your water to evaporate. Then Ph your water and add bleach. Added points if you have a chiller on a cool coil manifold loop to throw a leg into your water tank to cool it down to 65 or so. I know you are looking for a one shot remedy, and for that you will need to spend into the thousands. For the rest of us mere mortals, just be a little patient and let your water have some dwell time. Your plants will never be able to thank you enough because you have done everything possible to give them the best quality water they could ever get and you will have a run with ZERO problems with your water or water related issues.
 
slimjimham

slimjimham

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That sounds like it's going to be the plan then...

Ill have to put in an order today...
 
seaslug

seaslug

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I'm planning to restart my Blumat system that had a white aqueous, oxygen loving mold in the nute reservoir and lines. The mold developed resistance to chlorine and I gave up after last summer.

Looking at the 8W Aqua Ultraviolet unit--I'm thinking the non-wiper unit would be less problematic.

marinedepot user: "Slight creep build up around wiper handle. wiper allows for much less maintenance, but I would prefer a unit without one after experiencing salt creep buildup at wiper knob area. I would recommend this to others."

I was planning to buy a small, good quality chiller (Teco TK-150) but maybe UV will be enough? The reservoir capacity is 20 gallons.

Edit: I'm not undercurrent but I am tree farming. :)

A submersible would be easier and I wouldn't have to rely on the pondliner in the room to contain leaks.
 
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timmur

timmur

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The way that UV works best it to give it sufficient time to sit inside the reaction chamber to be bombarded with UV. So what you will want to do is get an airstone an air pump and a small 40 gph submersible pump and attach it to the Pondmaster and then place those all into your water tank making sure that the exit end of the UV is pointing upward to create a flooming effect. After you fill it up, turn them on and give it 24 hours for city chlorine and other shit in your water to evaporate. Then Ph your water and add bleach. Added points if you have a chiller on a cool coil manifold loop to throw a leg into your water tank to cool it down to 65 or so. I know you are looking for a one shot remedy, and for that you will need to spend into the thousands. For the rest of us mere mortals, just be a little patient and let your water have some dwell time. Your plants will never be able to thank you enough because you have done everything possible to give them the best quality water they could ever get and you will have a run with ZERO problems with your water or water related issues.
Can I put the whole setup in the top off tank (with nutes) for a UC system? I have a 105 gallon top off tank and want to sterilize it in there if possible.
 
DapperDon

DapperDon

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Can I put the whole setup in the top off tank (with nutes) for a UC system? I have a 105 gallon top off tank and want to sterilize it in there if possible.
No you cannot. The UV light will have a reaction with the nutes. With a UV sterilizer, you can pretreat your water only. With it being the actual medium, it is one thing you don't want to skimp on. Sort of like good organic soil mixtures for soil growers.
 
DapperDon

DapperDon

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There are reports of iron being depleted by UV treatment.
Sources please? We try and leave out the hearsay and bro-science at the front door. The iron and other elements removed from the water actually happens at the RO stage. Without the removal it will oxidize from UV exposure and create very bad things to happen. UV filters are best used after adequate sediment, turbidity, iron, and manganese filtration.
 
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