Water Chiller And Bennies

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J

JohnnyRey

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Hey guys I've been searching all around google reading about bennies but I can't really find an exact answer for what I need. I plan on using bennies,and I was wondering two things, if i use a water chiller to keep my temps at 65 degrees is it pointless or will it help with the bennies? And how often do I have to change the water inside my system when using bennies?
 
Al-53

Al-53

13
3
I use bennies in my system...I use hydroguard and also use some sub culture B and have been slime free...I run my water at 68-69 degrees ..I was running it lower but was told to bring it up a bit if useing bennies...my roots are pure white as we speak and its been running 7 weeks now...

I did sterilize the system when I got slime...I add added some humic acid to the res and I think thats what set the slime off...so I cleaned and sterilized system..after 5 days of roots in it..I started my bennies....
 
J

JohnnyRey

79
18
I use bennies in my system...I use hydroguard and also use some sub culture B and have been slime free...I run my water at 68-69 degrees ..I was running it lower but was told to bring it up a bit if useing bennies...my roots are pure white as we speak and its been running 7 weeks now...

I did sterilize the system when I got slime...I add added some humic acid to the res and I think thats what set the slime off...so I cleaned and sterilized system..after 5 days of roots in it..I started my bennies....
What type of bennies do you use along with hydroguard? I want to use great white with hydroguard but am worried of too many bennies? if that is even possible.
 
ken dog

ken dog

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I'm thinking you need your temps 73-74 Fahrenheit (23 Celsius)... Sounds nasty.
 
J

JohnnyRey

79
18
I'm thinking you need your temps 73-74 Fahrenheit (23 Celsius)... Sounds nasty.
Any explanation because everywhere I am reading it says water temps are best at 65-68 for multiple reasons.
 
ken dog

ken dog

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Any explanation because everywhere I am reading it says water temps are best at 65-68 for multiple reasons.

Not for beneficials... Which is why most people don't use beneficials in the current culture system.
Here is a quick link from a quick search...
.http://hortamericas.com/blog/mainta...be-levels-are-integral-in-hydroponic-systems/

Fair use excerpt:

“Cornell researchers found the temperature of the nutrient solution had a greater effect than the air temperature,” Raudales said. “Lettuce plants exposed to air temperatures ranging between17ºC (62.6ºF) and 31ºC (87.8ºF) had consistent yields as long as the nutrient solution had a consistent temperature of 24ºC (75.2ºF). This research was done in the 1990s, but it still has application today.

“Cornell researchers did a similar study with spinach and they found the optimum root temperature was 22ºC (72ºF). They tested air temperatures ranging from 16ºC to 33ºC (60.8ºF-91.4ºF) and they found as long as the root temperature was 22ºC, the air temperature could be in that range and plants still produced optimum yields. For tomatoes the optimum root temperature is 25ºC (77ºF)
 
All4freedumb

All4freedumb

874
93
I ran my UC sterile for years with great results. Then I ran tea and never looked back... I did do 2 side by sides before a full switch to the liveside and the results spoke for themselves, both times, in taste, looks, yield and less stress by watching how beautiful everything stayed. I keep my H2O at 68 except when I first enter the UC. Knowing my system and plants I start in the UC at 70, even 72, for the first 10 days to 2 weeks, depending on roots. My chillers don't run much at that time. As my girls take to the system and my roots start to swim I adjust my water for the first time.. It's NOT that "most" don't run live, it's more like the few people rocking UC's on forums don't run them. Most on forums play by CC recomendation. CC promotes sterile, which works great. They also sell UC Roots and nutes they test with their products... In the end I found the UC to work every time with ANY quality nute line, sterile or live or vertical or horizontal lighting, as long as we stick to one basic rules of thumb.. KISS... Then as we learn our strain and dial the rooms environment we can play a little more with additives and whatnot. I feel adding too much in the stew causes more issues than live or sterile or this line or that line.. just stick to something and get to know it and your rock your system... Just my 2 cents..
 
J

JohnnyRey

79
18
I ran my UC sterile for years with great results. Then I ran tea and never looked back... I did do 2 side by sides before a full switch to the liveside and the results spoke for themselves, both times, in taste, looks, yield and less stress by watching how beautiful everything stayed. I keep my H2O at 68 except when I first enter the UC. Knowing my system and plants I start in the UC at 70, even 72, for the first 10 days to 2 weeks, depending on roots. My chillers don't run much at that time. As my girls take to the system and my roots start to swim I adjust my water for the first time.. It's NOT that "most" don't run live, it's more like the few people rocking UC's on forums don't run them. Most on forums play by CC recomendation. CC promotes sterile, which works great. They also sell UC Roots and nutes they test with their products... In the end I found the UC to work every time with ANY quality nute line, sterile or live or vertical or horizontal lighting, as long as we stick to one basic rules of thumb.. KISS... Then as we learn our strain and dial the rooms environment we can play a little more with additives and whatnot. I feel adding too much in the stew causes more issues than live or sterile or this line or that line.. just stick to something and get to know it and your rock your system... Just my 2 cents..
How often did you do a res change? As in pull the water out in the system then refill with nutes and bennies? And if you did fewer res changes did you add back bennies through epicenter?
 
J

JohnnyRey

79
18
You should never have to change your rez. Alive or sterile. If you run a balanced system and low e.c. and have your ph and water temps always in check then you shouldn't have to do any changeouts.at least i never do.and i continuously get 2gs per watt min. keep farmin peeps. ......
And what bennies do you use? Do you add the same amount and your initially adding weekly? bi weekly? never again?
 
All4freedumb

All4freedumb

874
93
I do a changeout weekly to biweekly, depending where I am on my grow. I have done runs with no changeouts but I have noticed better results doing my changeouts. I add tea at the beginning of each changeout and that's it.
 
All4freedumb

All4freedumb

874
93
You should never have to change your rez. Alive or sterile. If you run a balanced system and low e.c. and have your ph and water temps always in check then you shouldn't have to do any changeouts.at least i never do.and i continuously get 2gs per watt min. keep farmin peeps. ......

How many sites do you run under a 1,000 and how many lights? I'd love to see 4.4 "at least" under a 1,000 consistent using the UC. Or any method at that... Any pics?
 
smokedareefer

smokedareefer

1,773
263
I ran my UC sterile for years with great results. Then I ran tea and never looked back... I did do 2 side by sides before a full switch to the liveside and the results spoke for themselves, both times, in taste, looks, yield and less stress by watching how beautiful everything stayed. I keep my H2O at 68 except when I first enter the UC. Knowing my system and plants I start in the UC at 70, even 72, for the first 10 days to 2 weeks, depending on roots. My chillers don't run much at that time. As my girls take to the system and my roots start to swim I adjust my water for the first time.. It's NOT that "most" don't run live, it's more like the few people rocking UC's on forums don't run them. Most on forums play by CC recomendation. CC promotes sterile, which works great. They also sell UC Roots and nutes they test with their products... In the end I found the UC to work every time with ANY quality nute line, sterile or live or vertical or horizontal lighting, as long as we stick to one basic rules of thumb.. KISS... Then as we learn our strain and dial the rooms environment we can play a little more with additives and whatnot. I feel adding too much in the stew causes more issues than live or sterile or this line or that line.. just stick to something and get to know it and your rock your system... Just my 2 cents..


would you care to share your tea receipt. I'm just starting week 3 of 12/12, and doing a water change....

tia
 
All4freedumb

All4freedumb

874
93
would you care to share your tea receipt. I'm just starting week 3 of 12/12, and doing a water change....

tia

I wish I could share it. I pick mine up from a friend that brews a couple hundred gallons every week. He sales his so he won't give up the recipe. He gifts is to me but won't give it up.. Sorry man. Have you taken a look at Caps bennies?
 
UCMENOW

UCMENOW

1,095
83
smokedareefer - consider making a simple worm casting tea. Add 2 cups of premium worm castings to 5 gallons of dechlor water and aerate for 24hrs. Do not add any molasses, etc., the casting contains proteins that will activate the brew.
Once brewed use this tea at 10ml per gallon in your system.

Worm tea has proven the most beneficial and least likely to cause secondary bacterial issues in my experience.
 
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