WATER CHILLER OFF THIS MORNING

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woodsmaneh

woodsmaneh

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Merry Christmas all

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Quantum9

Quantum9

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So you seriously wrote all that and are franticly worried about people running 9 ppm of DO instead of 10 ppm?? Did you even read the chart you posted? Thats what it says your talking about - the difference between 60 f and 70 f is 1 PPM of DO.

The funny thing is that i haven't recommended anything at all, i simply stated the facts about plant physiology and chemistry so that people can understand what happens in there system rather then (as some people seem to want to do) simply holding onto marginal success for dear life.

The truth is that i both run and recommend temps lower then you are talking about to begin with. I recommend 60-62 and run 50-60 actual, but i do it for rot prevention which is the paramount parameter in this system for water temp indication.'

That, however, doesn't change the fact that both biological and chemical recaions take place at higher temps and that the best temps for explosive growth are going to be 68-72.

Sorry if the nuance of this is over your head, but i can see how you could be confused; as greenhouse water temps are extremely "high" and the "aricle" you posted never actually gives a "number" for temperature, just talks about "high" and "low".

At any rate, since all of this arouse out of a simple few lines indicating that a chiller stall, if fixed before rot takes hold, should be no problem: How are he girls looking? Good i hope?
 
johnnyrex

johnnyrex

429
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So you seriously wrote all that and are franticly worried about people running 9 ppm of DO instead of 10 ppm?? Did you even read the chart you posted? Thats what it says your talking about - the difference between 60 f and 70 f is 1 PPM of DO.

The funny thing is that i haven't recommended anything at all, i simply stated the facts about plant physiology and chemistry so that people can understand what happens in there system rather then (as some people seem to want to do) simply holding onto marginal success for dear life.

The truth is that i both run and recommend temps lower then you are talking about to begin with. I recommend 60-62 and run 50-60 actual, but i do it for rot prevention which is the paramount parameter in this system for water temp indication.'

That, however, doesn't change the fact that both biological and chemical recaions take place at higher temps and that the best temps for explosive growth are going to be 68-72.

Sorry if the nuance of this is over your head, but i can see how you could be confused; as greenhouse water temps are extremely "high" and the "aricle" you posted never actually gives a "number" for temperature, just talks about "high" and "low".

At any rate, since all of this arouse out of a simple few lines indicating that a chiller stall, if fixed before rot takes hold, should be no problem: How are he girls looking? Good i hope?

Hey Q9 thanks for taking the time to answer my inquiry but I have ran my system a little higher just to see and I don't know if its the new nutes I'm using this round by the way is Uc soluctions which rocks but its been 2 incident were my chiller has been either not running right or something but my temps are about 69-72 and I can say that I have never seen my girls so big and lush they drink about 200 ppm in about 2 days and mind you I only have a 4 site 13 gallon system with 2weeks into flower and they looked like my last run which I veges for 2 months and in this case I only veg for 3 weeks before flip awsome.
I know you didn't recommend me running my chiller at 70 but I was just taking into account the chart you posted about higher temps and experimented running it a bit higher than I normally would having great success so far hoping not to introduce root rot or phylum thanks
 
Quantum9

Quantum9

201
63
You might be able to get away with it seeing as your already at week 2-3, but be careful.

Possibly double up on your root rot prevention applications?
 
johnnyrex

johnnyrex

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You might be able to get away with it seeing as your already at week 2-3, but be careful.

Possibly double up on your root rot prevention applications?

Thanks for the heads up but I think I'm going to back it down going into stretch weekn3&4 by rot rot prevention do you mean UC Roots right now in using 2 ml/ gal should I use 4ml
Also wanted to ask you I'm using tap water in my top off rez since I've been using it has been sweet now the problem is that my girls drink a lot and my ppm drop now my ? Is do you add your nutes at the same rate as when you started your week or do you add half strength if you had to add in mid week? Thanks Q9
 
SeedyGirl

SeedyGirl

22
13
I know this is an old thread but I find running dm zone helps keep roots rot free and I keep my system chilled at around 70 degrees. Dropping water levels and temps to 59 degrees brings out colors in the flowers, the last 2-3 weeks of flowering. And running a sterile nute program DM gold line
 
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