exactly what i was wondering! good question dan!
I just posted up a thread asking for everyone to post tissue testing labs. We would all appreciate if you could find your way there and post up the lab you used.It took us six months after identifying with a lab test to rid the plants of fusarium oxysporum. Sending plant samples to lab to see if it's truly gone or if our beneficials are just keeping it at bay. It took a major change in our practices at our grow spaces to get plants growing with vigor and yielding 2 per again.
the bennies in your mykos, rootshield, hydroguard, and orca will certainly be killed by the eagle 20 and physan20. maybe ok with zone. sterile or bennies...ya can't have it both ways.Jusy fyi- Im testing 3 different methods on rooted clones. 3 separate dunks, 1 eagle 20, 1 dm zone, and 1 physan20. Ive root dunked aprox 40clones into each solution, then potted into rockwool with mykos. 6in Hugos were soaked, then saturated with nutrient solution with rootshield, hydroguard, and orca. Fingers crossed, no clones have died so far, been 3-4 days now.
Dewd, you're measuring ORP?Lol, I had a recent battle with with pythium. I lost. 6 nice 24" lapistn indicas. Neither Dm zone, agri-fos nor bleach could save them. Fed the plants to the compost bin. I wish you luck. Btw, the 'active' ingredient in zone is copper sulfate, it is not an oxidiser as confirmed by my orp meter.
Rootshield does work, but if you look at research performed here in Davis Ca you'll see that it was only able to reduce mortality in infected plants by 41%. I battled fusarium wilt for 4 months before I realized it was not a nutrient problem. I still have not beaten the scourge, but rather I found a way to coexist. To start I take more cuttings than I need (about 2x what I can use). I then purposefully infect said clones with orange roots (definite sign of Fusarium Oxysporum) from withered plants just after they root. I wait 36 hours, then treat with Rootshield WP. I wait for the smoke to clear, and the survivors move on to the flowering room. Just like lightning this disease does not appear to strike twice. I hope this works for you as well.Thanks Kcar,
Two crops ago I used H202 at 5ml p gall in flower and it did not change the outcome. I'll look into Rootshield WP, have you used this? Thanks again.
Just remember stay away from synthetic fungI just got off the phone with Bioworks. Basically t-22 is good for all plants. When the EPA tested it they looked up all the negative literature on trichoderma, and did not distinguish between the many different strains of T. harzianum, So if there was a text stating the slight possibility of trichoderma having any ill effect on a crop they had to state that in their warning label.
The man I spoke with said that they have done field tests with almost all the plants on the warning label, and the plants did much better than the control group. I asked him specifically about MMJ and he was honest and said that a lot of people were using it.
It will help prevent and control fusarium, along with the species I have in the root pack. However, it is better as a preventative (applied early etc) than as a cure.
He recommended two sites to look up pesticides and fungicides.
cdms.com and agrian.com
he also told me that a product named subdue max coupled with t-22 is extremely effective against root pathogens (pyth fusarium, etc)
I looked up subdue and while it seems to be only for ornamentals, there is one page detailing the safe use on basil for retail consumption (in California).
http://www. agrian .com/pdfs/Subdue_MAXX_Section_24c2t.pdf
I dropped a couple spaces in there so it doesn't get invalidated.
Hope this helps. Good luck.