Welcome to the Fungal, it gets worse here everyday - Fusarium Solani

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nuglife

11
3
It took us six months after identifying with a lab test to rid the plants of fusarium oxysporum. Sending plant samples to lab to see if it's truly gone or if our beneficials are just keeping it at bay. It took a major change in our practices at our grow spaces to get plants growing with vigor and yielding 2 per again.
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

Living dead girl
23,596
638
It took us six months after identifying with a lab test to rid the plants of fusarium oxysporum. Sending plant samples to lab to see if it's truly gone or if our beneficials are just keeping it at bay. It took a major change in our practices at our grow spaces to get plants growing with vigor and yielding 2 per again.
I just posted up a thread asking for everyone to post tissue testing labs. We would all appreciate if you could find your way there and post up the lab you used. :)

https://www.thcfarmer.com/community/threads/tissue-testing-labs-all-report-here.64087/
 
mastagrowa

mastagrowa

90
18
This thread is seriously disturbing in light of an ongoing problem we've been fighting since we moved to our present location a couple years back. I posted earlier this year here:

https://www.thcfarmer.com/community/threads/bizarre-plant-mutation-mosaic-virus-or.61742/

Unfortunately the problem came back later, after we though we had it licked. Now our new from-seed strains are showing the same wierdness.

I'm thinkin this nute deficiency is being caused by a root-borne pathogen now.

Great x(
 
PNW Yeti

PNW Yeti

20
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I tried to read this whole post, but pretty lengthy. I have sent my root samples to my lab 2 days ago, and am waiting results. This is what I do know, any kind of root rot sucks. I run rockwool via drip to waste. I am a commercial grower, so a solution is a must. Im pretty sure I have some sort of fungal water pathogen. It is from my experience that infected mothers will infect clones taken from those mothers. My somewhat small amount of success has been from keeping res temps down (avoid light leaks), super aerated, hydroguard, orca, superthrive, and recently started rootshield. Keep shit dry as possible without over drying. Clean everything with physan, bleech, h202. Weekly neem treatments, eagle 20 when entering first day of flower. Keep fungus gnats at bay, and root aphids too if you have them. That's a whole different regiment too if you do. The problem must first be stopped in veg, so new moms (from seed) is what Im doing now, in a whole separate closed off section of my grow. Be very careful with starting new seeds, as damping off will kill all new genetics, which would absolutely piss me off worse than I am right now.

If theres a solution please let me know!!! I just recently posted my experience with this problem. PNW Yeti. I am updating as I go. First step is to get lab tests back to properly identify the problem. I will solve this issue no doubt, even if it takes moving, starting over fresh.
 
B

budfarmer

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Hi guy's unfortunately I have become a member of the fungus fighting group and suffered the same on going bullshit for a couple years which has near bankrupted me. I don't know for sure which form of fungus I have even if I found a lab to do testing I couldn't afford it anyway and whats the diff these root fungus's are all from the same family. I would like to hear from anybody else that has been able to gain control over root rot. I did use Ridomil at 1 drop per 1.5 liters of water as a drench but the reality of it seems to be the Ridomil is a stop gap measure the plants don't like Ridomil and it looks like it was hardly worth the trouble the Ridomil seems to have made the plants spindly as well as floppy no strenth ect. My plan right now is as soon as I can afford it is to find something to kill the root rot creating living space on the plant roots for good fungus then load the root zone up with T22 (Rootshield Plus), theoretically the T22 (the good fungus) should wrap around the plant roots within 24 hrs denying the bad root rot fungus living space. The big question on my mind right now is What should I use to kill most of the existing bad fungus on and around the root system with out causing serious damage to my plants ? I have heard from the hydro shop guy's Zone is a peroxide type product that might kill the root rot fungus but I know nothing about it, anybody ?? I would prefer to use something other than Subdue or Ridomil because my experience with Ridomil was that it all but ruined the plants any way it's just to strong as a drench at a rate high enough to kill root rot. So what might my options be to kill the root rot fungus to create living space for the T22 ? bleach ? peroxide ? Fatman seemed to have lots of good idea's to bad he got banned he really should have had his own sub forum sounds like he had a wealth of info us growers could have benneffited from, I think he was the person that recommended Bleach in hydro something I never heard of before. Thanks for any thoughts !
 
mojavegreen

mojavegreen

707
243
Lol, I had a recent battle with with pythium. I lost. 6 nice 24" lapistn indicas. Neither Dm zone, agri-fos nor bleach could save them. Fed the plants to the compost bin. I wish you luck. Btw, the 'active' ingredient in zone is copper sulfate, it is not an oxidiser as confirmed by my orp meter.
 
PNW Yeti

PNW Yeti

20
3
Jusy fyi- Im testing 3 different methods on rooted clones. 3 separate dunks, 1 eagle 20, 1 dm zone, and 1 physan20. Ive root dunked aprox 40clones into each solution, then potted into rockwool with mykos. 6in Hugos were soaked, then saturated with nutrient solution with rootshield, hydroguard, and orca. Fingers crossed, no clones have died so far, been 3-4 days now.
 
mojavegreen

mojavegreen

707
243
Jusy fyi- Im testing 3 different methods on rooted clones. 3 separate dunks, 1 eagle 20, 1 dm zone, and 1 physan20. Ive root dunked aprox 40clones into each solution, then potted into rockwool with mykos. 6in Hugos were soaked, then saturated with nutrient solution with rootshield, hydroguard, and orca. Fingers crossed, no clones have died so far, been 3-4 days now.
the bennies in your mykos, rootshield, hydroguard, and orca will certainly be killed by the eagle 20 and physan20. maybe ok with zone. sterile or bennies...ya can't have it both ways.
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

Living dead girl
23,596
638
Lol, I had a recent battle with with pythium. I lost. 6 nice 24" lapistn indicas. Neither Dm zone, agri-fos nor bleach could save them. Fed the plants to the compost bin. I wish you luck. Btw, the 'active' ingredient in zone is copper sulfate, it is not an oxidiser as confirmed by my orp meter.
Dewd, you're measuring ORP? :p
 
PNW Yeti

PNW Yeti

20
3
My goal was to kill any kind of fungus on the rooted clones, then pot them into a 6in hugo block with the mykos, rootshield, hydroguard, and orca. I may be wrong but I don't believe just by potting a dunked rooted clone into a fresh new hugo block will kill all the bennies in the cube.

So, kill the fungus, then get them into a bennies rich soaked cube. That's the idea.
 
showmegreen

showmegreen

498
93
I got the answer. Im jus atry'n ta figger outta way ta makes a million off y'all furst. Does y'all have any family you'r close to that had ta eat wat they grow'd. Well here in Mizzoura we got ever last mold cold n malaria ya can git. How did gramma keep tha stinks outta her garden? It wasn't goin t the hydro store or nuthin. I git that root killin mold stuff in my soil if I dont throw it in when I make it but you can throw it on top an all that an it will sink on in. Im pullin up a stool as sum y'all say....
 
M

Mikedee916

1
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Thanks Kcar,

Two crops ago I used H202 at 5ml p gall in flower and it did not change the outcome. I'll look into Rootshield WP, have you used this? Thanks again.
Rootshield does work, but if you look at research performed here in Davis Ca you'll see that it was only able to reduce mortality in infected plants by 41%. I battled fusarium wilt for 4 months before I realized it was not a nutrient problem. I still have not beaten the scourge, but rather I found a way to coexist. To start I take more cuttings than I need (about 2x what I can use). I then purposefully infect said clones with orange roots (definite sign of Fusarium Oxysporum) from withered plants just after they root. I wait 36 hours, then treat with Rootshield WP. I wait for the smoke to clear, and the survivors move on to the flowering room. Just like lightning this disease does not appear to strike twice. I hope this works for you as well.
 
hyzerflip

hyzerflip

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63
imo your problem is clearly watering your plants in saucers with no drainage. I'd virtually guarantee that if you started using drain trays with about 10% runoff you'll stop seeing this problem.
 
victoriabam

victoriabam

1
1
Love to be a part of the community. It's been great to get information from this about cannabis.
 
E

eirI

396
93
I just got off the phone with Bioworks. Basically t-22 is good for all plants. When the EPA tested it they looked up all the negative literature on trichoderma, and did not distinguish between the many different strains of T. harzianum, So if there was a text stating the slight possibility of trichoderma having any ill effect on a crop they had to state that in their warning label.

The man I spoke with said that they have done field tests with almost all the plants on the warning label, and the plants did much better than the control group. I asked him specifically about MMJ and he was honest and said that a lot of people were using it.

It will help prevent and control fusarium, along with the species I have in the root pack. However, it is better as a preventative (applied early etc) than as a cure.

He recommended two sites to look up pesticides and fungicides.

cdms.com and agrian.com

he also told me that a product named subdue max coupled with t-22 is extremely effective against root pathogens (pyth fusarium, etc)

I looked up subdue and while it seems to be only for ornamentals, there is one page detailing the safe use on basil for retail consumption (in California).

http://www. agrian .com/pdfs/Subdue_MAXX_Section_24c2t.pdf

I dropped a couple spaces in there so it doesn't get invalidated.


Hope this helps. Good luck.
Just remember stay away from synthetic fung
 

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