What’s a basic NPK ratio for all stages of growth that’s better than no fertilization at all?

[Archie]

Hey Archie
The girls look good....i'm kinda curious about the number of plants you have in one pot. If it was me I'd get bigger pots,1 for each 5 gal and transplant them ASAP. Each plant will get about 2"-3" in dia and you should be ready to get them indoors before frost. also the sunlight has started to diminish which triggers things within the plant...unless you know about a new technique or something??? also just my 2 cents

Thanks for your advice...always appreciated! I probably will not transplant them this far into their growth so as to not disturb them in any way. I did have one planted in a smaller pot by itself (I let the germinating seedling get a little dry and it was what I called a dwarf), but that ceramic pot broke and I transplanted it into a bigger pot. I learned in my horticulture class a decade ago that it can help to score the roots a bit when transplanting so, not knowing if this was the case with cannabis, I tried it. It’s been a week and it’s doing very well. Anyhow, this is my first attempt at growing outside of throwing seeds in the ground as a teenager...lol. I chose to be very simple about the process as I’m very busy, hence the cheap Dollar General medium and single pot. Having OCD, if I didn’t choose this simple method, I would have been all in and everything else in my life would have suffered...lol. If this experiment proves productive, I am considering an indoor crop to which I will afford more time and money toward, but still as simple as possible. I’m certainly no expert, although I know what I like...lol, but it’s a challenge I’m enjoying and that seems to be satisfying enough at the time. I’m content that I can always purchase the stuff the real experts have devoted their lives to...lol, albeit it’s ridiculously expensive at the recreational level. I’m pretty sure this will change as our State just went rec legal, etc.
And yes, I’m prepared to bring them indoors when it looks like frost is in the forecast. I’m at a real disadvantage up here in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula as the summer season is considerably shorter and, being in the middle of the woods, I’m lucky if they get 6 hrs. of direct sunlight at Summer’s peak. So, I’m doing what I can with what I have and hoping for a turnout that will motivate me to proceed more professionally, if you will. Really have to watch for mold up here, too...when the sun isn’t direct, it can get really humid and the nights are prone to excessive dew...ugh. In closing (I’ve pretty much started a book here...lol), I will tell you that I have yet to identify a male plant out of the lot...plenty of hairs coming out of the flowers, but no pollen sacs. I’m watching daily now, and being mindful of the occasional herme. It’s possible that the seeds my medicinal grower gave me are feminized, but I don’t have that kind of luck...lol. Again, thanks for your advice...it’s always welcomed!

Latest pic of a flowering stage

 

[Beachwalker]

Now that Michigan has legalized recreational marijuana, I am trying my hand at growing some plants exclusively for personal consumption. I started my seeds (Colorado Bubba) via wetted, paper towel germination, planted seedlings in small paper cups, then transplanted into bigger pots of decent medium when they were about 3” tall. After 2 months of doing nothing but basic hydration ( top & bottom watering), they are about 2’ tall. Because of the atypical weather in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula, they have yet to reveal their sex, but I’m being patient. Having a basic certificate in Introduction to Horticulture, I know my chances at a better product should include fertilization. I know that there are several schools of thought concerning fertilization (e.g., at various stages of growth, etc.), but I am looking for a basic NPK ratio that is suitable for all stages. This is not because I’m lazy and looking for the easy way out, but rather because I don’t have the time to invest that career growers obviously do. As aforementioned, I am merely interested in producing a decent product for personal consumption with the exception of treating family & friends to a decent buzz. So, that being said in almost book length (lol), do you have any suggestions and, if so, providing a trusty purchasing source would be a plus. TIA

Check out Megacrop, good luck!

 

[Archie]

Check out Megacrop, good luck!

Where do I check that out at?

 

[Beachwalker]

Where do I check that out at?

Greenleaf Nutrients – Hydroponic and Soil Nutrients

greenleafnutrients.com

 

[shaganja]

Thanks for your advice...always appreciated! I probably will not transplant them this far into their growth so as to not disturb them in any way. I did have one planted in a smaller pot by itself (I let the germinating seedling get a little dry and it was what I called a dwarf), but that ceramic pot broke and I transplanted it into a bigger pot. I learned in my horticulture class a decade ago that it can help to score the roots a bit when transplanting so, not knowing if this was the case with cannabis, I tried it. It’s been a week and it’s doing very well. Anyhow, this is my first attempt at growing outside of throwing seeds in the ground as a teenager...lol. I chose to be very simple about the process as I’m very busy, hence the cheap Dollar General medium and single pot. Having OCD, if I didn’t choose this simple method, I would have been all in and everything else in my life would have suffered...lol. If this experiment proves productive, I am considering an indoor crop to which I will afford more time and money toward, but still as simple as possible. I’m certainly no expert, although I know what I like...lol, but it’s a challenge I’m enjoying and that seems to be satisfying enough at the time. I’m content that I can always purchase the stuff the real experts have devoted their lives to...lol, albeit it’s ridiculously expensive at the recreational level. I’m pretty sure this will change as our State just went rec legal, etc.
And yes, I’m prepared to bring them indoors when it looks like frost is in the forecast. I’m at a real disadvantage up here in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula as the summer season is considerably shorter and, being in the middle of the woods, I’m lucky if they get 6 hrs. of direct sunlight at Summer’s peak. So, I’m doing what I can with what I have and hoping for a turnout that will motivate me to proceed more professionally, if you will. Really have to watch for mold up here, too...when the sun isn’t direct, it can get really humid and the nights are prone to excessive dew...ugh. In closing (I’ve pretty much started a book here...lol), I will tell you that I have yet to identify a male plant out of the lot...plenty of hairs coming out of the flowers, but no pollen sacs. I’m watching daily now, and being mindful of the occasional herme. It’s possible that the seeds my medicinal grower gave me are feminized, but I don’t have that kind of luck...lol. Again, thanks for your advice...it’s always welcomed! View attachment 893290Latest pic of a flowering stage

im down in the straights area. keep us posted on your girls! my small group of grower friends found that you have to use 7 weeks and under to get them to finish. 8 weekers just take too long. we love dr. greenthumbs iranian crosses! and oregon green seed always has fast strains and mold resistant ones. we shoot for end of sept. anything past that is a waste of time energy and money!

 

[shaganja]

i think by now you would see the boys. they show up first anyway. sounds like your good with all girls!!

 

[Archie]

im down in the straights area. keep us posted on your girls! my small group of grower friends found that you have to use 7 weeks and under to get them to finish. 8 weekers just take too long. we love dr. greenthumbs iranian crosses! and oregon green seed always has fast strains and mold resistant ones. we shoot for end of sept. anything past that is a waste of time energy and money!

Good to hear from fellow enthusiasts on that end of the UP...I lived in the Soo for a few years, but never as a grower. By 7 weeks, do you mean that I should try to expedite their final flowering and then harvest? Even though I’ve made it clear that my approach is simple and the least laborious, lest it consume me and everything else take back stage. I admit that I have become very fond of my girls and, therefore, am thinking that I might do them a solid if I move them indoors until harvest time. The problem is, even though I’m considering an indoor grow this winter, mostly because these girls are proving worthwhile, but I am in no way set up for it yet. So, first things first, I’m going to purchase a 300 watt LED light unit to see these through to the end which, given the loss of direct sunlight hours my property suffers even more now that fall approaches, should have them ready for harvest by no later than October’s 3rd week. Where I’m going to temporarily put them already has humidity control and great air circulation. My only real concern is the smell, but that’s easily remedied. As you know, humidity is a real concern here in the Great Lake arena, and therefore the threat of mold. The dew is horrible this year, so I don’t think I can move them fast enough! Transplanting them all (9) early on into just a 20 gal pot was definitely a way to inhibit massive growth (I was aiming for simple) from the start, but it’s proving convenient given this upcoming transfer to the indoors. With the birth of rec legalization, I just couldn’t let a summer pass me by without giving it a try...lol. I’ll keep you posted....

 

[Migrower]

If Your planning on spending 150 for a light”idk how much the 300 watt led your getting costs. But if it’s 150 or close I can point you in the direction of an amazing light that will outperform 99% of lights and 100% at that price point

 

[Archie]

If Your planning on spending 150 for a light”idk how much the 300 watt led your getting costs. But if it’s 150 or close I can point you in the direction of an amazing light that will outperform 99% of lights and 100% at that price point

Thank you...I’m interested for sure!

 

[shaganja]

Good to hear from fellow enthusiasts on that end of the UP...I lived in the Soo for a few years, but never as a grower. By 7 weeks, do you mean that I should try to expedite their final flowering and then harvest? Even though I’ve made it clear that my approach is simple and the least laborious, lest it consume me and everything else take back stage. I admit that I have become very fond of my girls and, therefore, am thinking that I might do them a solid if I move them indoors until harvest time. The problem is, even though I’m considering an indoor grow this winter, mostly because these girls are proving worthwhile, but I am in no way set up for it yet. So, first things first, I’m going to purchase a 300 watt LED light unit to see these through to the end which, given the loss of direct sunlight hours my property suffers even more now that fall approaches, should have them ready for harvest by no later than October’s 3rd week. Where I’m going to temporarily put them already has humidity control and great air circulation. My only real concern is the smell, but that’s easily remedied. As you know, humidity is a real concern here in the Great Lake arena, and therefore the threat of mold. The dew is horrible this year, so I don’t think I can move them fast enough! Transplanting them all (9) early on into just a 20 gal pot was definitely a way to inhibit massive growth (I was aiming for simple) from the start, but it’s proving convenient given this upcoming transfer to the indoors. With the birth of rec legalization, I just couldn’t let a summer pass me by without giving it a try...lol. I’ll keep you posted....

i was just saying start with something fast. outdoors up here is always a gamble. some indian summers, but most not! lol if you have the oportunity to go inside, i would. this rain started too early. i am hoping it wa just hurricane leftovers from down south. i am in the ground, so ill keep rolling the outdoor dice! lol by the way. am gonna have a e.u.p. growers get together. are you guys getting together to bulshit and trade info? thinking about end of oct. most should be done by then hey?

 

[shaganja]

Good to hear from fellow enthusiasts on that end of the UP...I lived in the Soo for a few years, but never as a grower. By 7 weeks, do you mean that I should try to expedite their final flowering and then harvest? Even though I’ve made it clear that my approach is simple and the least laborious, lest it consume me and everything else take back stage. I admit that I have become very fond of my girls and, therefore, am thinking that I might do them a solid if I move them indoors until harvest time. The problem is, even though I’m considering an indoor grow this winter, mostly because these girls are proving worthwhile, but I am in no way set up for it yet. So, first things first, I’m going to purchase a 300 watt LED light unit to see these through to the end which, given the loss of direct sunlight hours my property suffers even more now that fall approaches, should have them ready for harvest by no later than October’s 3rd week. Where I’m going to temporarily put them already has humidity control and great air circulation. My only real concern is the smell, but that’s easily remedied. As you know, humidity is a real concern here in the Great Lake arena, and therefore the threat of mold. The dew is horrible this year, so I don’t think I can move them fast enough! Transplanting them all (9) early on into just a 20 gal pot was definitely a way to inhibit massive growth (I was aiming for simple) from the start, but it’s proving convenient given this upcoming transfer to the indoors. With the birth of rec legalization, I just couldn’t let a summer pass me by without giving it a try...lol. I’ll keep you posted....

ha,ha! i lived there for a couple years while going to lake state. those were the days! the back door!!

 

[Archie]

i was just saying start with something fast. outdoors up here is always a gamble. some indian summers, but most not! lol if you have the oportunity to go inside, i would. this rain started too early. i am hoping it wa just hurricane leftovers from down south. i am in the ground, so ill keep rolling the outdoor dice! lol by the way. am gonna have a e.u.p. growers get together. are you guys getting together to bulshit and trade info? thinking about end of oct. most should be done by then hey?

My friend’s list is very minimal here...I’m more of an acquaintance type of person, so no meeting to speak of over this way. I do plan on visiting the East End after harvest...I want to visit and share with a few friends & family there and then scoot down State to visit my brother. For me, there’s nothing better than sharing to get my brag on, even if it’s a strain I’ve come across that insist upon itself...lol. I’ll keep you posted...may just cross paths....

 

[Joeg51]

Does any product have that ratio? I mean, for being a benchmark, I can't think of a single product that has that ratio. If it were that settled as the holy grail, you'd think it would be everywhere. I've unraveled some multi-bottle "lineup" schedules. I think GH Flora 3-part is the only one that came close to that ratio. But, just once in veg. And, just in one of the three "schedules" for Flora series.

It just seems odd that such a well-established ratio would be so not available in all the common proprietary "lineups" (and as a standalone, one-bottle product?).

I agree with 3 part GH flora,seems I started to use it I can control more want I want to use more or less let's not forget you need to see what that plant is doing.remenber if pH changes.sometimes just water is good enough,a little flora GH at the write time it's learning every day and keep a open mind

 

[cemchris]

I agree with 3 part GH flora,seems I started to use it I can control more want I want to use more or less let's not forget you need to see what that plant is doing.remenber if pH changes.sometimes just water is good enough,a little flora GH at the write time it's learning every day and keep a open mind

As long as you don't go off of the GH schedule which is trash. Nova is good as a 1 and done. Nova flower at 7 ml a gal (dont quote me been a long while) is pretty much Lucas. I would opt for strait up Nova veg tho.

 

[MIMedGrower]

The best explanation I've heard aboutthe difference between hydro vs soil nutes is true soil that has a clay content needs more P which is why soil formulas often have a higher P ratio.

But soiless mix like promix or other peat based soils dont have clay to bind up the P, and they dont have an affinity to bind it otherwise so it's not nearly as important to supplement. It's why I've been using grow ratio all the way through flower lately in promix with awesome results. It's nearly the same as hydro ratio bloom nutes.

Soil ratio NPK feeds should only be used on actual soil that will bind up P. Soiless peat based mixes perform better with Hydro ratios.

The phosphorous leaching is specifically outside in the ground or garden beds. As i have read this is not an issue with container gardening.

The only difference that makes a soil specific fertilizer would be the addition of organics like humic acid or seaweed extract. Or the exclusion of calcium like jacks 20-20-20. Also possibly different forms of nitrogen like including ammoniacal nitrogen which breaks down slower and raises ph.

And a hydro fertilizer needs to be complete and only available mineral salts.

 

[Dirtbag]

The phosphorous leaching is specifically outside in the ground or garden beds. As i have read this is not an issue with container gardening.

The only difference that makes a soil specific fertilizer would be the addition of organics like humic acid or seaweed extract. Or the exclusion of calcium like jacks 20-20-20. Also possibly different forms of nitrogen like including ammoniacal nitrogen which breaks down slower and raises ph.

And a hydro fertilizer needs to be complete and only available mineral salts.

I wasnt referring to leaching, but phosphorus adsorbing directly to the surface of clay particles in soil. Learned about it reading through Botanicare articles, this is one from their website;

BLOOM SOIL
A premium, bloom, base nutrient designed specifically for plants cultivated in soil with sources of essential major and secondary elements plus trace minerals from the land and sea.
Cultivating plants in soil requires higher phosphorus levels to offset clay colloidal particles that bind up phosphorous, and to offset soil microbes that compete for the phosphorous. This formula provides the additional phosphorus and nutrients for blooming, fruiting and flowering plants while also feeding the microorganisms.

 

[MIMedGrower]

I wasnt referring to leaching, but phosphorus adsorbing directly to the surface of clay particles in soil. Learned about it reading through Botanicare articles, this is one from their website;

BLOOM SOIL
A premium, bloom, base nutrient designed specifically for plants cultivated in soil with sources of essential major and secondary elements plus trace minerals from the land and sea.
Cultivating plants in soil requires higher phosphorus levels to offset clay colloidal particles that bind up phosphorous, and to offset soil microbes that compete for the phosphorous. This formula provides the additional phosphorus and nutrients for blooming, fruiting and flowering plants while also feeding the microorganisms.
[/QUOTE]


I remember reading too this now. Thank you. I think somewhere they mention leaching as well. Pro mix had an article in their learning center too and thats where i saw it wasnt a problem in containers.

 

[Dirtbag]

I remember reading too this now. Thank you. I think somewhere they mention leaching as well. Pro mix had an article in their learning center too and thats where i saw it wasnt a problem in containers.

Botanicare soil bloom has such a low N number, I'm pretty sure it would perform poorly in promix used as anything besides a ripener. I had good results using floranova bloom in containers of promix though and it has a relatively high ratio of P, but I always ran grow for 3 weeks or so before transitioning to bloom over the course of a few waterings. But I've also had good results using just grow for the past few runs.. This will be my first run all the way through with pbp grow and so far it's doing just fine. Probably still gonna bump the pk at the end with the soil bloom as a ripener though.

 

[MIMedGrower]

I remember reading too this now. Thank you. I think somewhere they mention leaching as well. Pro mix had an article in their learning center too and thats where i saw it wasnt a problem in containers.

Botanicare soil bloom has such a low N number, I'm pretty sure it would perform poorly in promix used as anything besides a ripener. I had good results using floranova bloom in containers of promix though and it has a relatively high ratio of P, but I always ran grow for 3 weeks or so before transitioning to bloom over the course of a few waterings. But I've also had good results using just grow for the past few runs.. This will be my first run all the way through with pbp grow and so far it's doing just fine. Probably still gonna bump the pk at the end with the soil bloom as a ripener though.
[/QUOTE]


I had bad results with the pbp soil bloom. Too much P and not enough N like you said.

I think if i really wanted to switch to a bloom nute after bud set i would try the hydro bloom.

But tapering off the grow formula works bery well for me in pro mix and ocean forest. I just try to keep them medium green rather than dark green for harvest and the flowers taste excellent right out of the drying closet.

 

[cemchris]

Give Maxigrow a try. Pretty legit by itself.