What is going on here?!?

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HazeLover

HazeLover

20
3
Amnesia Haze
Durban Poison
Fox Farm Soil
3 Gallon Pots
2 1,000w led
24x30 tent
Day temps 80
Night 68
Humidity 40-55
Fox Farm Nutes
Week 3 Flower (Started on the amnesia week 1-2 of flower, durban week 2-3)

So I have no clue what to do. I certainly had my ppms way too high but flushed thoroughly almost a week ago and still see progression. Ppm after the flush was around 380. It's starts with small black dots and then starts to dry out and crisp. I have ruled out any type of insect and and 100% positive about that. It starts on lower fan leaves and works its way up. Any ideas? Please only comment if you have personally seen this exact thing before. Photos are in order of progression
 
What is going on here
What is going on here 2
What is going on here 3
What is going on here 4
Jimster

Jimster

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I would suspect nutrient lockout. Fox Farms soils are pretty hot to begin with, and added nutrients on top of the nutes included with the soil might have caused nutrient imbalances and resulting lockout. It looks like progressing magnesium deficiency to me, although you didn't mention your Ph, which can cause a lot of lockout issues. It DOES look like spider mite damage, although you have ruled out that possible explanation. What type of water are you using? It doesn't look like nutrient burn to me, but it does look like a magnesium deficiency to me. With Fox Farms soil and nutrients, it's unlikely that you have a deficiency due to insufficient nutrients, but lockouts can occur due to some compounds not getting along with others, making them unavailable to the plant to use, despite having plenty in the soil. Can you do a Ph check?
 
HazeLover

HazeLover

20
3
I would suspect nutrient lockout. Fox Farms soils are pretty hot to begin with, and added nutrients on top of the nutes included with the soil might have caused nutrient imbalances and resulting lockout. It looks like progressing magnesium deficiency to me, although you didn't mention your Ph, which can cause a lot of lockout issues. It DOES look like spider mite damage, although you have ruled out that possible explanation. What type of water are you using? It doesn't look like nutrient burn to me, but it does look like a magnesium deficiency to me. With Fox Farms soil and nutrients, it's unlikely that you have a deficiency due to insufficient nutrients, but lockouts can occur due to some compounds not getting along with others, making them unavailable to the plant to use, despite having plenty in the soil. Can you do a Ph check?
Thank you for the response. So about the ph... there is way too much mixed information on the internet. Im watering with filtered water, 7.5 from the tap, 6.6 through filter. I suspected a ph issue so I sent a soil sample to a lab and it came back at 5.45. Which is almost exactly on par with the runoff. And also significantly different than the ph soil probes which read 7-7.5. That difference is what pushed me to send the soil to be tested. 've been watering the past week around 6.8-7 hoping to bring it up a little. The problem I have right now is that I'm not sure if I should add more of something or take more out of the soil with another flush. Very frustrating. From here on out I'm going 100% organic
 
Jimster

Jimster

Supporter
2,770
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You should probably try a slurry test for your Ph, as meters can be off calibration and sometimes give false readings. Your low Ph would also explain the lockout, as accumulated nutrients tend to cause the medium to become increasingly acidic, which make them unavailable to the plants. You should find out about your actual Ph, and then try to treat it easily instead of dumping dolomite or other Ph adjusters on it to bring it back into range. Since the FF soil is full of nutrients, you won't have much luck leaching hem out with a flush. Once you find out for sure what your Ph is, then you can use a variety of methods to bring it back up slowly, including wood ashes (my personal favorite as it is a fertilizer too), or diluted lime/alkaline solutions. Flushing should help somewhat, although it will probably keep drawing the Ph down as more nutrients are released by the FF soil.
Personally, I use Promix, composted manure, and Jack's 20-20-20 and have had no troubles for 30+ years. It's simple but foolproof.
 
HazeLover

HazeLover

20
3
You should probably try a slurry test for your Ph, as meters can be off calibration and sometimes give false readings. Your low Ph would also explain the lockout, as accumulated nutrients tend to cause the medium to become increasingly acidic, which make them unavailable to the plants. You should find out about your actual Ph, and then try to treat it easily instead of dumping dolomite or other Ph adjusters on it to bring it back into range. Since the FF soil is full of nutrients, you won't have much luck leaching hem out with a flush. Once you find out for sure what your Ph is, then you can use a variety of methods to bring it back up slowly, including wood ashes (my personal favorite as it is a fertilizer too), or diluted lime/alkaline solutions. Flushing should help somewhat, although it will probably keep drawing the Ph down as more nutrients are released by the FF soil.
Personally, I use Promix, composted manure, and Jack's 20-20-20 and have had no troubles for 30+ years. It's simple but foolproof.
Thanks again. I needed another opinion but I do think it is some sort of ph issue. Instead of doing a slurry test or trusting the probes I did an actual lab. Tells you levels of all available nutrients plus soil ph. NPK was way too high, along with some others. I guess it's just figuring out what I want to do to get the soil ph up at this point
 
Jimster

Jimster

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Thanks again. I needed another opinion but I do think it is some sort of ph issue. Instead of doing a slurry test or trusting the probes I did an actual lab. Tells you levels of all available nutrients plus soil ph. NPK was way too high, along with some others. I guess it's just figuring out what I want to do to get the soil ph up at this point
Flushing is usually recommended to get excess nutrients out, so I would consider that as a possible avenue of attack on the low Ph values. Wood ashes might not be the best choice as they contain nutrients, which you have plenty or too much of already. Sodium Bicarbonate (Baking Soda) can help but increases salinity slightly. Calcium carbonate (chalk) or dolomite can also bring it up but you need to be careful that it doesn't swing too far into the alkaline range.
When I first started, I had the same problem that you are hiving and I made up a trashcan full of water with a Ph of about 8, then I put the plant, bucket, and all into the trash can and let it soak for several hours. This insured that the high Ph water could get to every part of the root zone and the excess alkaline seemed to bring the P back into the preferred Ph zone... between 6 and 7.
 
HazeLover

HazeLover

20
3
Flushing is usually recommended to get excess nutrients out, so I would consider that as a possible avenue of attack on the low Ph values. Wood ashes might not be the best choice as they contain nutrients, which you have plenty or too much of already. Sodium Bicarbonate (Baking Soda) can help but increases salinity slightly. Calcium carbonate (chalk) or dolomite can also bring it up but you need to be careful that it doesn't swing too far into the alkaline range.
When I first started, I had the same problem that you are hiving and I made up a trashcan full of water with a Ph of about 8, then I put the plant, bucket, and all into the trash can and let it soak for several hours. This insured that the high Ph water could get to every part of the root zone and the excess alkaline seemed to bring the P back into the preferred Ph zone... between 6 and 7.
I am going to try lime. I'll start off small and see what happens. I feel like it's crunch time to get this resolved before it seriously affects yields. Other than the lower leaf problems the plants look overall healthy. No drooping or anything like that. Growth slowed but hasnt stopped. Thanks again bud
 
HazeLover

HazeLover

20
3
Looks like rust (a fungus).
I thought that but idk. It looks like it is starting on the inside of the leaf and coming out. The tent is very clean and I had an auto flower in there that showed signs 1st once it started to flower at week 3. It did not show up on the other 2 plants until weeks later and if it was a fungus I would have expected it to spread much more quickly being that the plants were touching
 
HazeLover

HazeLover

20
3
The auto flower in the back has been doomed for weeks. I was going to yank it out but figured I would let it ride for now. Durban on the left, amnesia haze on the right
 
Beachwalker

Beachwalker

7,055
313
Amnesia Haze
Durban Poison
Fox Farm Soil
3 Gallon Pots
2 1,000w led
24x30 tent
Day temps 80
Night 68
Humidity 40-55
Fox Farm Nutes
Week 3 Flower (Started on the amnesia week 1-2 of flower, durban week 2-3)

So I have no clue what to do. I certainly had my ppms way too high but flushed thoroughly almost a week ago and still see progression. Ppm after the flush was around 380. It's starts with small black dots and then starts to dry out and crisp. I have ruled out any type of insect and and 100% positive about that. It starts on lower fan leaves and works its way up. Any ideas? Please only comment if you have personally seen this exact thing before. Photos are in order of progression
Big Cube is correct. Brown spot w/ black ring around it; search 'mmj septoria', it's caused by high humidity

immediately increase air flow and spray it with one tablespoon per gallon of baking soda until you come up with a proper plan to eliminate it.

I use copper fungicide (as directed) with 100% success, sulfur burning also works, good luck
 
Last edited:
HazeLover

HazeLover

20
3
Big Cube is correct. Brown spot w/ black ring around it; search 'mmj septoria', it's caused by high humidity

immediately increase air flow and spray it with one tablespoon per gallon of baking soda until you come up with a proper plan to eliminate it.

I use copper fungicide (as directed) with 100% success, sulfur burning also works, good luck
I wouldn't consider 50% humidity high this early in flower. The tent has great ventillation as well as two oscillating fans. The 1st plant that showed symptoms of this was touching the other 2 plants and they did not show symptoms until almost a month later. I would think that if it was a fungus it would have spread much more quickly to the other plants in the tent. There seems to be a pattern that it started in the 1st weeks of flowering which makes me believe that the ph is off and not allowing the plant to get nutrients essential for flowering. Maybe the ph worked during the vegetative stage but once there was a demand for new things they were unavailable. I have looked at a lot of photos of what you mentioned and it does not look exactly the same
 
Beachwalker

Beachwalker

7,055
313
I wouldn't consider 50% humidity high this early in flower. The tent has great ventillation as well as two oscillating fans. The 1st plant that showed symptoms of this was touching the other 2 plants and they did not show symptoms until almost a month later. I would think that if it was a fungus it would have spread much more quickly to the other plants in the tent. There seems to be a pattern that it started in the 1st weeks of flowering which makes me believe that the ph is off and not allowing the plant to get nutrients essential for flowering. Maybe the ph worked during the vegetative stage but once there was a demand for new things they were unavailable. I have looked at a lot of photos of what you mentioned and it does not look exactly the same
You can continue to disagree but it's still leaf septoria or a similar fungus, I've dealt with it for years and know it well, and I've told you how to control it. Best wishes
 

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