What Is Happening To My Greenhouse?

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Desertbuds

17
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Hey farmers, I'm new here and am having trouble in my greenhouse. Here's the run down.
I have plants started from seed.
Plants are in 45 gallon smart pots.
Water ph is 7.7 with 170ppm before nutes
Have never checked after nutes until recently.
Soil mix is a combination of pro mix and ocean forest.
When I transplanted on July 13th from 10 gal hard pots to 45 gal smart pots I mixed in gypsum, kelp meal, fishbone meal, oyster shell, azomite, and crab meal at the suggested levels on build a soils web page.
Transition and transplant went amazing plants were explosive! Liquid fertilizers given while in veg were. Age old grow, soluble nitrogen powder, oilygan calcium magnesium, earth juice microblast, age old liquid kelp, age old fish and seaweed, soluble fulvic, house and gardens Algen extract, silica.
July 28th watered with root wise.(microbes)
August 18th transitioned.
Added more dry ferts via top dressing.
This time followed the instructions on the bag. Age old fruit finish, oyster, fishbone, azomite, kelp meal, langbeinite at 1/4 strength because it lasts a long time. Then I watered with age old bloom(1/2 strength), Algen, silica and great white shark.
Again everything was chipper and the ladies were happy. They were on once a week 10 gallon waterings. As things progressed the plants got huge and in turn started to develop nice.
September 4th
I changed the waterings to two 5 gallon waterings a week. Every other water with nutes including seaweed powder 0-0-14 and the other with just liquid w-8, silica and Algen.
Out of nowhere this happens and has only gotten worse. The leaves are curling down and yellowing an the tips on some are burned. There's interveinal chlorosis and rusting. It's happening on some colas and on some lower branches. It's just so rapid and I've flushed and it's gotten worse. And I added fish and seaweed(light), FF big bloom(light),cal mag plus, silica, I'm going to loose everything!
 
Underthesun

Underthesun

607
143
Any pictures? I use the build a soil recipe (aka coots soil). That is a living soil and you really shouldn't have to add anything extra other than some worm castings every so often and maybe some alfalfa meal during veg and some kelp meal during flower. You may be trying too hard if you are using the Coots recipe, that soil just does it all on its own with some compost teas and water. Save some money and make it simple, you will be happy.
 
Underthesun

Underthesun

607
143
Your plant could also just be finishing up and changing on you, like fall colors on a tree. But it sounds to me like you went over board on the nutes. Nutes in a bottle aren't needed if you mixed that soil 'exactly' how they told you on the build-a-soil website, you may have messed up the biology of your mix with all that stuff. Just out of curiosity, did someone tell you to use all that stuff?
 
D

Desertbuds

17
3
Hey farmers, I'm new here and am having trouble in my greenhouse. Here's the run down.
I have plants started from seed.
Plants are in 45 gallon smart pots.
Water ph is 7.7 with 170ppm before nutes
Have never checked after nutes until recently.
Soil mix is a combination of pro mix and ocean forest.
When I transplanted on July 13th from 10 gal hard pots to 45 gal smart pots I mixed in gypsum, kelp meal, fishbone meal, oyster shell, azomite, and crab meal at the suggested levels on build a soils web page.
Transition and transplant went amazing plants were explosive! Liquid fertilizers given while in veg were. Age old grow, soluble nitrogen powder, oilygan calcium magnesium, earth juice microblast, age old liquid kelp, age old fish and seaweed, soluble fulvic, house and gardens Algen extract, silica.
July 28th watered with root wise.(microbes)
August 18th transitioned.
Added more dry ferts via top dressing.
This time followed the instructions on the bag. Age old fruit finish, oyster, fishbone, azomite, kelp meal, langbeinite at 1/4 strength because it lasts a long time. Then I watered with age old bloom(1/2 strength), Algen, silica and great white shark.
Again everything was chipper and the ladies were happy. They were on once a week 10 gallon waterings. As things progressed the plants got huge and in turn started to develop nice.
September 4th
I changed the waterings to two 5 gallon waterings a week. Every other water with nutes including seaweed powder 0-0-14 and the other with just liquid w-8, silica and Algen.
Out of nowhere this happens and has only gotten worse. The leaves are curling down and yellowing an the tips on some are burned. There's interveinal chlorosis and rusting. It's happening on some colas and on some lower branches. It's just so rapid and I've flushed and it's gotten worse. And I added fish and seaweed(light), FF big bloom(light),cal mag plus, silica, I'm going to loose everything!
View attachment 638203 View attachment 638203
 
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SpiderK

SpiderK

2,339
263
what are the temps ??? humidity ? how many fan's blowing inside ? ventilation ?

and they only need a little nutes outside water, water feed, .... and the topdress nutes breakdown slowly ....
 
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Desertbuds

17
3
Here's another. No nobody told me to use all of these things I'm just experimenting. But I have some plants that are just fine and some that are really suffering. It picks and chooses. I have 3 clementine #7 clones and two are completely fine but one is all messed up. Obviously genetically they're all different because they're from seed and different strains. I was maybe thinking they could have used all the meals I gave and be completely out? It's been over a month. I haven't given anything close to what I have in the past for liquid ferts either. Maybe I should just flush and rebalance the diet they're getting. Any suggestions for a speedy recovery? Thanks a ton
 
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D

Desertbuds

17
3
what are the temps ??? humidity ? how many fan's blowing inside ? ventilation ?

and they only need a little nutes outside water, water feed, .... and the topdress nutes breakdown slowly ....

Temps at night get down to 40. During the day it's maybe 65-75 some days and 80-90 max on some days but the night temp comes up with it. Humidity is 40-70% depending on time of day and if the sidewalls are down for the night. Circulation fans: None
Exhaust fans: 2 18" 3000cfm fans blow out the hot air off the top.
3 2000cfm intake vents near the floor on the north wall.
 
Underthesun

Underthesun

607
143
Maybe PH is off in the soil? I'm not claiming to be an expert just thinking through this with you.

Did you use compost like the recipe calls for? I didn't see you mention compost earlier, that is probably the most important part of the organic soil recipe you followed. The compost will feed your plants but also help breakdown all the dry amendments you added and make them available to your plants. Compost teas will also help this process along. This will all help balance the ph of your soil as well, as your soil will become a living ecosystem. When your soil is very healthy your plants will take up what they need, which is very much already in the soil mix you followed. Adding more nutrients, especially at a high rate could have messed up your ecosystem and messed up your ph causing lockout. Again, I'm just thinking this through with you and may not have all the answers.

Circulation fans are cheap, just use a house fan. Good compost is amazing with the soil amendments you are using...I have never been so happy with my plants after following that soil mix and using good home made worm castings. Build-a-soil has a few blog posts that were very helpful too. Plus, this website www.microbeorganics.com. Great info.
 
500lbs Guerilla

500lbs Guerilla

334
63
Low temps won't cause that. pH is a possibility. How wet is your soil? Did you let your dry ferts compost before planting? Perhaps the addition of bottled salts (age old isn't organic) slowed the decomposition process and the increase in moisture might have triggered the soil to heat up with uncomposted dry ferts. It looks like hot soil burn to me, but don't quote me on that.
 
tinderthumbs

tinderthumbs

3,712
263
I've had plants in my greenhouse at 30 degrees and the worst was a little freeze burn on foliage directly in front circulation fans
how u pull that off all my plants die off fast when it gets cold around here teach me of your ways only thing I can think of is no frost?

ps every thing I see u should not have more then a 15-20d drop in temp and never let them get past 55f
 
Underthesun

Underthesun

607
143
holy cow u say it gets 40f in there at night?

Temps can get that low if the roots are protected, generally with bigger beds / pots.

and your ph is super high if its close to 8

PH isn't optimal for sure, but if the soil was nice and 'living' the water with that ph should still be okay.

Low temps won't cause that. pH is a possibility. How wet is your soil? Did you let your dry ferts compost before planting? Perhaps the addition of bottled salts (age old isn't organic) slowed the decomposition process and the increase in moisture might have triggered the soil to heat up with uncomposted dry ferts. It looks like hot soil burn to me, but don't quote me on that.

If he was following the Clackamas Coots recipe off of Build a Soils website, the amendments don't need to be composted first, they won't burn your plants. This recipe doesn't really cook like a super soil, but letting it sit and giving compost teas would allow the soil to have more nutrients available to the plant sooner. Not sure if the OP followed the recipe since he mentions fish bone meal which is not in the build a soil mix, and doesn't mention compost.
 
robomont

robomont

237
63
i had similar problem as yours op.i had rain water tank with algae.i put in some bleach and left it for two weeks.then i used that water and had exact looking plants.if that happened to you,just flush with good water and chill out.the burn wont recover but the plant will.i use coots soil recipe and you got a case of bad water bro.
 
Bulldog420

Bulldog420

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Supporter
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so, when you have water with that high of a ppm, you are accumulating carbonates, and bicarbonates. When you lowered your watering frequency, you allowed the medium to dry up, and sodium will become prevalent with high amounts of Bicarbs. @Slownickel This dude will tell you.

A gypsum flush or a powdered milk flush will help push the high Mg and Na off the CEC sites. Might be too late for any real improvements to be made, but take note for next season. Either more gypsum, or correct your water supply.
 
Bulldog420

Bulldog420

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Soil is real tight right? Not loose and soft, like the day you planted? High Mg then for sure.
 
katelyn

katelyn

280
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Not saying you have pests but some of my plants have looked like that after they got infested with aphids! Possible peats in there? Wouldn't hurt to look
 
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