what's the best, most effective organic fungicide to use when you have a fungal infestation?

[ghost79]

Be it organic or chemical, I'd like to know what peoples opinions are on what they think are the best, most effective organic or chemical fungicide. I oblviously prefer organic to chemical, but I don't rule out a systemic, chemical based fungicide when it comes to loosing my crop or not. Thanks "buddies"!

 

[green punk]

Serenade, or Green Cure or skim milk mixed 10 to 1. Will help in a fight with PM. Not sure what fungus your fighting.

 

[ghost79]

Serenade, or Green Cure or skim milk mixed 10 to 1. Will help in a fight with PM. Not sure what fungus your fighting.

I'm not sure yet either, I'm going to post pics of the diseased foliage tomorrow, I'm interested in finding which fungal disease it is. I believe there's 2 different diseases from fungus,mold,mildew. By the way, that's what I use is Serenade. Ineed to increse the dosage to full strength and shorten the application rates. Thanks man!

 

[waayne]

I prefer to use JMS Organic Stylet Oil

It's a very effective organic fungicide........

 

[ghost79]

thanks guys!

 

[Seamaiden]

JMS, or, depending, perhaps Actinovate.

 

[Oregon Panda]

Oxidate or Zerotol for organic(Peroxide based), DowAgro Sciences Eagle 20EW for chemical(Petrolium propanol based). Knock em out tiger.

 

[650homegrown530]

Yea Oregon Panda hit it on the dot Oxidate is what i use, takes care of that Powdery Mildew really well. A couple other farmers were talking about diluting Hydrogen Peroxide...

https://www.thcfarmer.com/community...-for-natural-fungicide-use.50743/#post-912442

 

[Chobble]

Yea Oregon Panda hit it on the dot Oxidate is what i use, takes care of that Powdery Mildew really well. A couple other farmers were talking about diluting Hydrogen Peroxide...

https://www.thcfarmer.com/community...-for-natural-fungicide-use.50743/#post-912442

PM is a pretty bad systemic infection. You generally have to treat it with something a little heavier the hydrogen peroxide. Oxidate is quite like Hydrogen peroxide though, close but no cigar.

Also if your using a fungal based treatment like serenade that is a preventative not a treatment. You spray that on before hand to prevent infection.

Now can you atleast explain the mold, because I have some treatments you may want to try depending on the type...

Chobble

 

[Animal Chin]

Eagle 20 lol sorry couldn't resist.

I use Actinovate

 

[ghost79]

PM is a pretty bad systemic infection. You generally have to treat it with something a little heavier the hydrogen peroxide. Oxidate is quite like Hydrogen peroxide though, close but no cigar.

Also if your using a fungal based treatment like serenade that is a preventative not a treatment. You spray that on before hand to prevent infection.

Now can you atleast explain the mold, because I have some treatments you may want to try depending on the type...

Chobble

Hi Chobble, here's pics of the mold inested leaves. Can you or anyone help me identify what type of mold, fungus this is?

 

[Blaze]

JSM Stylet Oil, Serenade and Oxidate are what I use. They work best as preventatives though. Once and infection takes hold the organics will be less effective and more of a 'band-aid' since you will only be treating the symptoms not the root of the disease itself. I use the Stylet and Serenade regularly during early flower to help prevent PM and the Oxidate as spot spray when we find mold. Using something systemic early on, like when the plants first go out, can really knock PM back for the season and will actually kill the PM inside and infected plant. I use organic methods when ever reasonable and practical but IMHO sometimes it is better to spray once or twice with something non-organic early on to stop the disease entirely, rather than having to constantly spray with something organic the entire season.

 

[ghost79]

JSM Stylet Oil, Serenade and Oxidate are what I use. They work best as preventatives though. Once and infection takes hold the organics will be less effective and more of a 'band-aid' since you will only be treating the symptoms not the root of the disease itself. I use the Stylet and Serenade regularly during early flower to help prevent PM and the Oxidate as spot spray when we find mold. Using something systemic early on, like when the plants first go out, can really knock PM back for the season and will actually kill the PM inside and infected plant. I use organic methods when ever reasonable and practical but IMHO sometimes it is better to spray once or twice with something non-organic early on to stop the disease entirely, rather than having to constantly spray with something organic the entire season.

Do you think it's PM or something else? Thanks for your input,but curious to what this mold is in particular?

 

[Blaze]

Looks to me more like a botrytis type mold, not mildew to me. Hard to say w/o looking at it thru a scope though. Any fungicide should help however, and the one nice thing about botrytis is is usually does not spread systemically.

 

[Chobble]

Looks to me more like a botrytis type mold, not mildew to me. Hard to say w/o looking at it thru a scope though. Any fungicide should help however, and the one nice thing about botrytis is is usually does not spread systemically.

^^ I agree. Its more in the wood rot family. Just remove the leaves. If the whole plant is like this there probably isnt much you can do.

I deal with a lot of mold in my moist climate, and trust me thats no big deal. Generally the leaf has already started dieing by the time that mold sets in.

Chobble

 

[Seamaiden]

The peroxides in OxiDate are quite caustic. My OxiDate comes with a warning to control drift if using outdoors. When I use it indoors (too difficult for me to control drift outside) I use full PPE, including a respirator, chemical-resistant gloves, boots with socks and goggles. It's not a product to be used lightly, in my opinion, and it works very well against actively fruiting powdery mildew, especially in conjunction with Stylet.

Outside, I use Stylet and milk. This year I've finally sourced raw milk, and am going to begin using it now, instead of waiting, since one of the issues with my local soils is low Ca level.

 

[dorjewright]

I haven't found anything that works for botritis including sulphur, OxiDate, or Actinovate . Yesterday in exasperation I tried some asprin; bingo! The spores and stalks turned black almost immediately. Jury's still out on it coming back. Google it. It can be used as a soil drench or foliar spray. 1 regular asprin/gal. I'm going to try a foliar tomorrow morning.

 

[Chobble]

I haven't found anything that works for botritis including sulphur, OxiDate, or Actinovate . Yesterday in exasperation I tried some asprin; bingo! The spores and stalks turned black almost immediately. Jury's still out on it coming back. Google it. It can be used as a soil drench or foliar spray. 1 regular asprin/gal. I'm going to try a foliar tomorrow morning.

I would advise cutting away the affected areas. Then keep treating it. Asprin can be a rather rough PH adjustment.

Chobble

 

[ghost79]

That's what I'm doing is removing the affected leaves and treating it with Exel LG Sytemic fungicide one week and then alternating it with Oxidate on a weekly basis. I was using serenade, but it didn't seem to be making any progress in supressing it. What do you think of using hydrogen peroxide in between the 1 week interval treatments at a 1 part hydrogen peroxide to 9 part water solution and spraying it repeatadly until the signs of the infection are gone. Will that work? Is it too much for the plant to handle all that? I also have another question on using the oxidate application rate. They told me to use 1/2 oz./ gal. of water for the curative treatment. But the booklet say's to use 128 oz. of oxidate per 100 gallons of water. I can't do math for shit! And have been trying to figure out how many oz.'s that is per gallon. Again, they told me it's equivalent to 1/2 oz./ gal., but i want to make sure that is indeed the correct dosage rate. Also, in one part of the booklet, it states to use the oxidate every 5 to 7 day's, and another part say's to apply it consecutive applications until control is achieved and then follow directions for preventative treatment. I'm confused, is there anyone out there with experience using oxidate that can help me? Thank You

 

[Seamaiden]

I would try it. Store-bought H2O2 is nowhere nearly as strong as OxiDate (which is another peroxide) and it will help.

You might also want to try using foliars of isopropyl alcohol mixed at a 1:1 ratio to help dry out the area, and it may help further reduce spread of infection.

As for how to figure the math, it's based on a per acre treatment, and that's usually 100gals. That means you're using a 1:100 dilution ratio, very common ag standard. With me so far? Work it backwards from there. 1 gallon is 1/100th of the treatment they're advising, so 1/100th of the 128oz would be 1.28oz, yes? I'm horrible at the math but have been making myself work it. I would scale the 1.28oz to 1.25 OR 1.3oz/gal.
1 ounce by volume is 2T (tablespoons).
3t (teaspoons) = 1T
1t = 5mls
1T = 15mls