When to move seedlings from seed starter to solo cups

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RGWD0202

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Like most posters, I’m a first time grower. I used a Burpee seed dome to germinate 6 seeds.


When to move seedlings from seed starter to solo cups

Two sprouted 6 days ago the other 4 popped through the soil the following day. I’m using a 260 watt LED at 20% 16” above the seedlings with Fox Farm Light Warrior seed starting medium with no added nutes. Should I move them to Solo cups or leave them in the smaller pods until the roots fill the pods and then go to a solo cup or go to a 1 gallon pot and skip the solo cup?
 
LoveGrowingIt

LoveGrowingIt

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I doubt it's helpful to let roots fill the pods. The tap root needs to be able to go deep, but there needs to be enough roots to keep the soil from falling apart. I don't use that pod method, but I'd say to move them to larger cups sooner rather than later. Rooting is the plant's priority at this stage of growth.

Also, I'll be using Light Warrior when I start seeds for my next grow. It looks good to me. I think it's important for the seedlings to get off to a good start. LW looks good.
 
ArtfulCodger

ArtfulCodger

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The trick, when using loose soil in a tray like that, is that until the roots fill out the cell, transplanting will be a mess. It's doable, but not ideal. So, I'd probably let them go for a couple weeks, at least. (This is one of the reasons so many people pop seeds in starter plugs...easier to transplant.)
 
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RGWD0202

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I doubt it's helpful to let roots fill the pods. The tap root needs to be able to go deep, but there needs to be enough roots to keep the soil from falling apart. I don't use that pod method, but I'd say to move them to larger cups sooner rather than later. Rooting is the plant's priority at this stage of growth.

Also, I'll be using Light Warrior when I start seeds for my next grow. It looks good to me. I think it's important for the seedlings to get off to a good start. LW looks good.
So it’d be safe to move them even without a full root ball in those pods? That’s my biggest concern but agree about getting a deeper tap root which is why I’m thinking they should be moved. Sorry to question your advice just don’t wanna kill my little friends.

As far as Light Warrior goes, I’m a noob and got 100% success rate with directly in the soil method. Also, the seeds are from a bag of white rhino not store bought seeds, I’m sold on it…
 
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RGWD0202

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The trick, when using loose soil in a tray like that, is that until the roots fill out the cell, transplanting will be a mess. It's doable, but not ideal. So, I'd probably let them go for a couple weeks, at least. (This is one of the reasons so many people pop seeds in starter plugs...easier to transplant.)

The trick, when using loose soil in a tray like that, is that until the roots fill out the cell, transplanting will be a mess. It's doable, but not ideal. So, I'd probably let them go for a couple weeks, at least. (This is one of the reasons so many people pop seeds in starter plugs...easier to transplant.)
Ok, maybe I’ll start with one and see how it goes and see if the soil stays intact around the current root structure. If not leave the other 5 where they are
 
LoveGrowingIt

LoveGrowingIt

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So it’d be safe to move them even without a full root ball in those pods? That’s my biggest concern but agree about getting a deeper tap root which is why I’m thinking they should be moved.
I don't think a full root ball is good for the plant. Some say being rootbound can stunt the plant, but I think that's mostly only true if it is badly rootbound. I just think it's important to keep in mind that rooting is the plant's main priority during this stage. The better the roots, the better the plant.

I doubt there's one best way of transplanting. I like to make sure the plant is healthy before I move it. There can be some transplant shock, and a healthy plant can handle the change better. Transplanting is a good time to add mycorrhizae (like Mykos) if you're into organic growing. IIRC, Light Warrior has it already. Some folks let the soil the plant is in dry slightly to help hold it together. The new soil should be moist. I sometimes use a hand sprayer to moisten the hole and help hold the Mykos against the sides of the hole. It's probably a good idea to keep the light intensity low for a few days while the plant adjusts to its new home.

Sorry to question your advice just don’t wanna kill my little friends.
No worries. There are many ways to grow these plants and most of them work well.
 
Choppr

Choppr

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Try to give as much info so we can help, 1st off, cell pots suck for seed starts, what do you do when roots grow thru them bottom holes?
Autos or Photoperiod? Is it just me, I dont see any life in the Photo? If they're Autos, relocate them after emergence to their Permanent Pots so they dont have to be disturbed again or they will be stunted(just carefully dump them out of the trays). (dont touch the tap root, pick up just under the leaves with clean or gloved hands), Same for Photoperiod, after emergence get them out of those cells before roots grow through the holes at the bottom of the cell pots. (ditch the cell pots for seed starts) For New Growers', alcohol wipe a clean coffee cup, fill half way with bottled spring water, drop your seeds, soak for 12-15 hrs, then into moist paper towels (use spring water again) into a ziplock baggie(blow air into the baggie and seal-humidity balloon)put in a warm place, check daily(sprouts in 24-30hrs). This method insures the shell and membrane are softened enough so the seedling can kick off shell/membrane easier(without using all of its energy), avoiding stuck shell/membrane or what's called "helmet heads", After they've spouted 1/4 to 1/2 inch tail, Photoperiods should go into solo cups to grow roots for 2-3 weeks, Autos should go into their Permanent pots. ""Premoisten the Soil or Coco in your Solo Cups/Permanent Pots before Transplanting""-""moist not wet"" add in myco's to the planting hole. (bold in this instance denotes importance, clarification in case of snowflakes?)
Advanced Growers can disregard as You so choose. Any questions just ask... Right On!
 
R

RGWD0202

159
63
Try to give as much info so we can help, 1st off, cell pots suck for seed starts, what do you do when roots grow thru them bottom holes?
Autos or Photoperiod? Is it just me, I dont see any life in the Photo? If they're Autos, relocate them after emergence to their Permanent Pots so they dont have to be disturbed again or they will be stunted(just carefully dump them out of the trays). (dont touch the tap root, pick up just under the leaves with clean or gloved hands), Same for Photoperiod, after emergence get them out of those cells before roots grow through the holes at the bottom of the cell pots. (ditch the cell pots for seed starts) For New Growers', alcohol wipe a clean coffee cup, fill half way with bottled spring water, drop your seeds, soak for 12-15 hrs, then into moist paper towels (use spring water again) into a ziplock baggie(blow air into the baggie and seal-humidity balloon)put in a warm place, check daily(sprouts in 24-30hrs). This method insures the shell and membrane are softened enough so the seedling can kick off shell/membrane easier(without using all of its energy), avoiding stuck shell/membrane or what's called "helmet heads", After they've spouted 1/4 to 1/2 inch tail, Photoperiods should go into solo cups to grow roots for 2-3 weeks, Autos should go into their Permanent pots. ""Premoisten the Soil or Coco in your Solo Cups/Permanent Pots before Transplanting""-""moist not wet"" add in myco's to the planting hole. (bold in this instance denotes importance, clarification in case of snowflakes?)
Advanced Growers can disregard as You so choose. Any questions just ask... Right On!
Appreciate it, I figured the dome and those pods would be great for starting, didn’t think far enough ahead with getting them out… the seeds are from a bag of I believe white rhino, I doubt they are autos, not sure if autos produce auto seeds, also don’t know what the male would have been that pollinated the female.
I doubt it's helpful to let roots fill the pods. The tap root needs to be able to go deep, but there needs to be enough roots to keep the soil from falling apart. I don't use that pod method, but I'd say to move them to larger cups sooner rather than later. Rooting is the plant's priority at this stage of growth.

Also, I'll be using Light Warrior when I start seeds for my next grow. It looks good to me. I think it's important for the seedlings to get off to a good start. LW looks good.
I ended up moving all 6, the roots were more established than I expected in a short amount of time. Let’s see how they do tonight.
 
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