when to start bloom nutrients...

[MIMedGrower]

I'm using mega crop I have always supplemented mag sufate at the end... Not that I found a deficiency but because sulfur is largely responsible for terpene and flavonoids so ensure I have more than enough is good enough reason for me. Mag sulfate is like $5 a pound so for me it's not even a question but to add it and have seen no negative effects. I feel like it helps but that could be my own bias.

I am not suggesting you change what works for you. And i have no water culture experience at all.

 

[Aqua Man]

I am not suggesting you change what works for you. And i have no water culture experience at all.

Nah I got ya 100% and I'm sure we see slightly different resluts because I'm in hydro and your in soil. Love when we talk and get into the good info. Learned a lot over the time from you.

 

[FourthCity]

I am not suggesting you change what works for you. And i have no water culture experience at all.

Nah I got ya 100% and I'm sure we see slightly different resluts because I'm in hydro and your in soil. Love when we talk and get into the good info. Learned a lot over the time from you.

Im gonna test all this out on 4 clones during my next run, that way it will be an apples to apples comparison. One will be grown using pure blend pro grow for veg then their bloom nutes for flower, the second will start on grow then get 50/50 grow and bloom nutes after switching to 12/12, the third will only get grow nutes, and the fourth will use megacrop. Each will be in their own 5 gallon dwc bucket and will share the same light. I don't think I will start that thread until I'm ready to post the results so if everyone can just hang tight for about 4-5 months we might be able to settle the op's question

 

[Aqua Man]

Im gonna test all this out on 4 clones during my next run, that way it will be an apples to apples comparison. One will be grown using pure blend pro grow for veg then their bloom nutes for flower, the second will start on grow then get 50/50 grow and bloom nutes after switching to 12/12, the third will only get grow nutes, and the fourth will use megacrop. Each will be in their own 5 gallon dwc bucket and will share the same light. I don't think I will start that thread until I'm ready to post the results so if everyone can just hang tight for about 4-5 months we might be able to settle the op's question

Also can you to compare taste and burn when using bloom nutes with higher phosphorus. I think i would rather see the difference from 12/12 using bloom and waiting say 3 weeks then using bloom. Mixing 50/50 will I feel give similar results as just grow.

I have seen enough that im certain no bloom nutes are needed or are beneficial for most grows. Of course different manufactures use different ratios and I feel PBP has better ratio's than most bloom nutes

 

[FourthCity]

I think i would rather see the difference from 12/12 using bloom and waiting say 3 weeks then using bloom.

I've pretty much always waited for the plants to start to flower (about 1-3 weeks depending on the plant) before I used the bloom nutrients and don't dispute that switching early would be worse. That doesn't seem like it is as much as a controversial issue or at least not one that you have to convince me of.

Mixing 50/50 will I feel give similar results as just grow.

I bet you are right.

I have seen enough that im certain no bloom nutes are needed or are beneficial for most grows. Of course different manufactures use different ratios and I feel PBP has better ratio's than most bloom nutes

It has worked a lot better for me than the gh 3 part, I haven't had any nutrient issues since switching that weren't more or less self inflicted which is mostly why I'm so surprised to see so many of you against it. I'm stubborn enough that I need to do this comparison before I can commit to changing my methods, especially since using different nutes for flower has been one of the few things that I haven't changed over the last 12 years. That being said I'm not so stubborn (or dumb) that I would resist switching to whichever method proves to work the best .

 

[MIMedGrower]

Im gonna test all this out on 4 clones during my next run, that way it will be an apples to apples comparison. One will be grown using pure blend pro grow for veg then their bloom nutes for flower, the second will start on grow then get 50/50 grow and bloom nutes after switching to 12/12, the third will only get grow nutes, and the fourth will use megacrop. Each will be in their own 5 gallon dwc bucket and will share the same light. I don't think I will start that thread until I'm ready to post the results so if everyone can just hang tight for about 4-5 months we might be able to settle the op's question

It will be an interesting test for sure but i have to say one grow is not enough to really dial in any of the combinations of nutes.

It took me a while to switch from bloom nutes and mixing during transition like i thought it should be done to getting better results with only the grow bottle.

It ended up teaching me i needed much less nutes than i was adding. And the closer i got to giving only as much as they used between water/feedings the better the final product.

 

[MIMedGrower]

I've pretty much always waited for the plants to start to flower (about 1-3 weeks depending on the plant) before I used the bloom nutrients and don't dispute that switching early would be worse. That doesn't seem like it is as much as a controversial issue or at least not one that you have to convince me of.


I bet you are right.


It has worked a lot better for me than the gh 3 part, I haven't had any nutrient issues since switching that weren't more or less self inflicted which is mostly why I'm so surprised to see so many of you against it. I'm stubborn enough that I need to do this comparison before I can commit to changing my methods, especially since using different nutes for flower has been one of the few things that I haven't changed over the last 12 years. That being said I'm not so stubborn (or dumb) that I would resist switching to whichever method proves to work the best .

It started to occur to me that the PBP bloom soil would yellow my plants early and so i would flush a bit and thought to add just 10ml PBP grow and see if the plant greened up. She did. And i started experimenting.

All the forum discussions leaned to worry about too much nitrogen. And that yellowing in bloom is ok. Even neccessary. Eventually I understood that strength and ratio are different. And i could use a balanced fertilizer but taper up and down as needed and the plants made bigger and better buds the healthier at harvest they were.

It may extend bloom time. But again the grower that estimated that time used bloom nutes likely. I was going about two weeks longer on average than the breeder of my seeds regardless of phenotype.

Environment and style may be factors as well of course.

 

[FourthCity]

It will be an interesting test for sure but i have to say one grow is not enough to really dial in any of the combinations of nutes.

It took me a while to switch from bloom nutes and mixing during transition like i thought it should be done to getting better results with only the grow bottle.

It ended up teaching me i needed much less nutes than i was adding. And the closer i got to giving only as much as they used between water/feedings the better the final product.

I always adjust my ppms based on how the reservoir is responding to the last feed rather than following feeding schedules. For example, If I feed a plant nutrients at 500ppm and the during the next day or the truncheon reads the reservoir at closer to 400-450 then my next feed will be closer to 550-600ppm. If instead I get a reading above 550ppm (allowing for some increase from evaporation) then I dial the next feed back to 400-450ppms. I will use this technique on all 4 plants in the comparison unless there are any objections or suggestions.

 

[Aqua Man]

I always adjust my ppms based on how the reservoir is responding to the last feed rather than following feeding schedules. For example, If I feed a plant nutrients at 500ppm and the during the next day or the truncheon reads the reservoir at closer to 400-450 then my next feed will be closer to 550-600ppm. If instead I get a reading above 550ppm (allowing for some increase from evaporation) then I dial the next feed back to 400-450ppms. I will use this technique on all 4 plants in the comparison unless there are any objections or suggestions.

Good practice to me. Also by plant response that may indicate an imbalance of ratios. Then res change and continue.

 

[cemchris]

I run salts. Same ratio veg/flower. 650ish ppm in veg and about 830 in flower. Clones to Chop. Same nutes. Same ratios. Cal Nitrate, Pot Nitrate, Mag Nitrate, MKP, MAP, Micros, Mag Sulfate, Pot silica, Phos Acid. 1 mix for everything. Look at the Mega Crop, Master blend, Jacks, Veg+Bloom, PBP Grow guys. Doing the same thing.

 

[Hopefull Stoner]

just a simple answer to 2 questions imho. feed them veg two weeks into flower then switch to bloom nutes. i saw your nute choices and they aren't over the top so you should be fine and be trouble free so far as nutes are concerned. you can always try a side by side using the same nutes at different amounts for the whole grow. that will tell u about that strains like/dislike/neutral reaction. that will change for various strains though and those changes are more drastics/quicker in hydro as i'm sure u know. i wish u the best. i didn't real all of the other advice. KISS keep it simple stupid is the best way to grow and live. imho