White powder on my leaves does not wipe off

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Farmer88

Farmer88

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Azamax for a neem durring veg. Actara during veg. Neonicitoids, doubtful you will be able to purchase this, but it's your nuke option. Do not use root based uptake insecticide for cannabis production period like Acephate.

Keep the bottom of the plant clean and remove all infected leaves. Spray from the bottom up making sure to coat the bottom of the leaves and the base of the stem.

Give adequate space between the soil level and the first branches you are going to keep for harvest, this will allow air flow and will give you some space to spray if necessary durring the flower period. Once flowes have formed cease any spray activity into the cannopy and only apply very light insecticide IF NECESSARY below the canopy level only taking extreme caution not to spray any flower material. Do not spray on windy days durring flower.
 
Farmer88

Farmer88

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Respectfully, I disagree, the powder or spores are not coming off, but rather are permanent spots where thrips have sucked out what they need with thier little straw nose thing.

@Pwkick it wouldn't hurt to use a preventative biofungicide if you are in a humid area anyway to protect from Powdery Mildew and Downy Mildew as you move towards flowering where spraying becomes exponentially difficult.
 
GNick55

GNick55

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Respectfully, I disagree, the powder or spores are not coming off, but rather are permanent spots where thrips have sucked out what they need with thier little straw nose thing.

@Pwkick it wouldn't hurt to use a preventative biofungicide if you are in a humid area anyway to protect from Powdery Mildew and Downy Mildew as you move towards flowering where spraying becomes exponentially difficult.
it’s not mildew
 
Farmer88

Farmer88

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What u get for growing in the outdoors the blessed plant should be inside if u want quality

You seem to have amazing aim for unproductive bullseye.

If it was a fungus the spores would wipe off easily. That was the first hint to knock any fungal ailments off the board.

However, I will make my earlier post more clear. It is thrip damage and spinosad will help in th early stages. And if you do live in humid climate mix in a light biofungicide to prevent fungus.

I have noticed a lot of the pesticides growers are using are preventative not curitive. I'd guess that 99% of the growers here are not qualified to purchase curitive chemicals. Spray classes and licensing is available at your local agricultural extension.

Rather than wait for problems to occur, you will have to try and get a head of them with the products at your disposal. That means before fungus presents itself, spraying a head of that. Or insects.
 
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Farmer88

Farmer88

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That's no grower if they useinh pesticide that's a lolo

Pesticides is the term for any chemical that one would use to prevent or cure a fungus, insect, bacteria, or virus. Just like fertilizer is a catch all term for any nutrient additive.

You've probably also used pesticides, but don't like the word.

Concurrently, I'll have to repeat again, if the powder or spores do not rub off, it would be silly to make a primary diagnosis of fungus.
 
Flexnerb

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U most likely will need a 80x to 120x scope to check them. If it were thrips you would see them for the most part...check the tops and see if theres nymphs adults or larvae.

Thrips need spinosad. Some mites are controlled with it. Mites really need a suffacant. Something with essentail oils in it. It shuts down receptors and the insect dies.(my understanding is that's how it).

Rubbing acohol on well watered plants is ok too....50% kills on contact. Raise lights to 4 5 ft away and spray a few leaf's and wait and see. Its kind of rough on the ladies but they manage....MUST BE WATERED GOOD BEFORE being sprayed....i water wait 1 maybe 2 hours and then spray.....peroxide, vinegar, and water works for bugs too. I eliminated thrips with this once before. Spinosad did a way better job though...

Theres lots of enthomopathogenic fungi that kill insects too including mites. Ites are eazy to kill just like every other bug....LEARN THE LIFE CYCLE AND FIGURE OUT A COURSE OF ACTION TO BREAK IT! This mantra will eliminate most if not all bugs....borgs? Trash, burn, clean, sanitize, clean, and sanitize....lol jmo. Ive had russets, cyclamens, thrips, and broads....lol as fas as i know they are gone. Only catch i dont have a scope higher than 60X....ill be getting a celestrom 5mp camera...lol...then ill know for sure.....

I wold like to get into bug studies on canna....that's gunna be where people spend (guessing here) 5 to 10% or more of there revenue chasing all these critters out of their grow area...




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Flexnerb

Flexnerb

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Pesticides is the term for any chemical that one would use to prevent or cure a fungus, insect, bacteria, or virus. Just like fertilizer is a catch all term for any nutrient additive.

You've probably also used pesticides, but don't like the word.

Concurrently, I'll have to repeat again, if the powder or spores do not rub off, it would be silly to make a primary diagnosis of fungus.
Pesticides arent really needed unless you got plant stock you cant afford to lose and its a last resort....lol

Russets. Super easy to kill if you stay on top of them....50% rubbing alcohol every 2 to 3 days and 25% every day twice a day sprayed on them killed them from what i can see....are they gone? My 60X scope isnt seeing anything...there could be eggs. Nymphs to maybe not sure...they turn adults in a very small time frame...8 to 15 days....im thinking that whole 50 eggs a day thing some people say, might just be bullshit...
 
Farmer88

Farmer88

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Pesticides arent really needed unless you got plant stock you cant afford to lose and its a last resort....lol

Russets. Super easy to kill if you stay on top of them....50% rubbing alcohol every 2 to 3 days and 25% every day twice a day sprayed on them killed them from what i can see....are they gone? My 60X scope isnt seeing anything...there could be eggs. Nymphs to maybe not sure...they turn adults in a very small time frame...8 to 15 days....im thinking that whole 50 eggs a day thing some people say, might just be bullshit...


I agree pesticides should be used cautiously.

I also like your use of rubbing alcohol as a pesticide. 😙 If it works don't fix it.
 
lvstealth

lvstealth

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you can get an app for magnifying glass.
 
Rockysmoke

Rockysmoke

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Mites and mite eggs are extremely small. Very hard to see with the naked eye if you don't have experience with identifying them. Spray with neem oil, you'll kill the mites or thrip's but not the good bugs!!
 
Farmer88

Farmer88

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So I can get neem oil no problem but was seeing that I could use alcohol I assume deluted

Neem or spinosad and some insecticidal soap will probably get you where you want to be and will be the easiest pesticides to find. If you can always add a sticker spreader, for example NuFilm, if it's available to you.

I have no experience with isopropyl as a pesticide, but the person that posted that said they used a 50% solution. I would refer back to @Flexnerb post for the details to thier solution.
 
Flexnerb

Flexnerb

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50% kills on contact....thrips, if it is its most likely not though with that many bites.

Alcohol you need well watered plants or they will dry out a little to alot. I only did mine for a week and a half...the russets cant be seen. My money says they arent completely eradicated....
Spray a few leaves and see what happens raise the lights up. 4 feet 3 maybe....raise lights, spray, wait an hour or two and see wjat happens.....alcohol is in some of the organic miticides.

Two spotted spider mites die swiftly.....you can always use essentail oils too in the alcohol...its preferred too. I used rosemerry extract. It seemed to do a little better job.....

HYDRATE YOUR PLANTS PRIOR TO USING IT wait 2 hours after watering...
So I can get neem oil no problem but was seeing that I could use alcohol I assume deluted
 
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