White Widow Fast Grow

  • Thread starter MissBotany
  • Start date
  • Tagged users None
MissBotany

MissBotany

567
143
I took one last look at them last night and noticed that their N deficiency had evolved lol. After further examination of the leaves and stems, I am confident they have a phosphorus deficiency. The reason I didn’t run into this issue on my first grow is because I used FFOF which came with an abundant source of P. When I looked at my veg nutrients and soil ingredients I saw that there was very little P and the fact that I’ve been lax about my pH (letting it be too alkaline), the plants weren’t able to take in what little P there was. So before bed, I gave them bloom at teaspoon/gallon and adjusted the pH to somewhere between 6.0-6.5. Amazingly they bounced back overnight. You should have seen them a few days ago!

The plant in the last picture was hit the hardest. She will probably not be a candidate for cloning. Hopefully the other two are healthy enough for cloning in the next month.
 
Last edited:
RHINObeast

RHINObeast

805
143
I took one last look at them last night and noticed that their N deficiency had evolved lol. After further examination of the leaves and stems, I am confident they have a phosphorus deficiency. The reason I didn’t run into this issue on my first grow is because I used FFOF which came with an abundant source of P. When I looked at my veg nutrients and soil ingredients I saw that there was very little P and the fact that I’ve been lax about my pH (letting it be too alkaline), the plants weren’t able to take in what little P there was. So before bed, I gave them bloom at teaspoon/gallon and adjusted the pH to somewhere between 6.0-6.5. Amazingly they bounced back overnight. You should have seen them a few days ago!

The plant in the last picture was hit the hardest. She will probably not be a candidate for cloning. Hopefully the other two are healthy enough for cloning in the next month.
Bottom leaves are probably just from watering. Couple questions, what are your temps at night time? What is your feeding schedule like? How often are you giving them nutrients? 70 RH really isn’t that bad for veg, you’re like 10 degrees off which isn’t bad, you need a lil 6 inch cfm fan to pull the humidity out. There 35 bucks or so with the ducting. If it was me, I’d go for a variable controller and a bigger cfm fan should you decide to bloom in the tent, you want your RH around 35-40 in the final 4-5 weeks. As far as the N issue, I think you still need to give it some N, not much, but still needed. Make sure you PH, that shit is everything! Plants can’t absorb certain minerals if the PH is out of wack so maybe it rejected what you fed it.
 
MissBotany

MissBotany

567
143
Bottom leaves are probably just from watering. Couple questions, what are your temps at night time? What is your feeding schedule like? How often are you giving them nutrients? 70 RH really isn’t that bad for veg, you’re like 10 degrees off which isn’t bad, you need a lil 6 inch cfm fan to pull the humidity out. There 35 bucks or so with the ducting. If it was me, I’d go for a variable controller and a bigger cfm fan should you decide to bloom in the tent, you want your RH around 35-40 in the final 4-5 weeks. As far as the N issue, I think you still need to give it some N, not much, but still needed. Make sure you PH, that shit is everything! Plants can’t absorb certain minerals if the PH is out of wack so maybe it rejected what you fed it.

Thanks for the info! I feed once per week with GH gro, micro, and bloom. I water as needed. Night time stays around 72f.

I can’t believe I let myself get lazy on the pH. That seriously f’d everything up. The veg tent isn’t big enough to hold them for too long. I have a bigger tent with a 6” inline fan and carbon filter with good air circulation. I just can’t use it yet because I have three plants in finishing up their last few weeks of flower in it.
 
RHINObeast

RHINObeast

805
143
Thanks for the info! I feed once per week with GH gro, micro, and bloom. I water as needed. Night time stays around 72f.

I can’t believe I let myself get lazy on the pH. That seriously f’d everything up. The veg tent isn’t big enough to hold them for too long. I have a bigger tent with a 6” inline fan and carbon filter with good air circulation. I just can’t use it yet because I have three plants in finishing up their last few weeks of flower in it.
Sounds good, sounds like it was a conjunction of PH and phosphorous. Don’t sweat it cuz it’s super early and lots of room for growth...you caught your mistake that’s all that matters. I almost enjoy having an issue from time to time, kind of reminds me that I don’t walk on water every grow lol
 
MissBotany

MissBotany

567
143
This quantum board is amazing. After I fixed the nutrient deficiency/pH, they had a growth explosion! They look healthy enough to top so I’ll do that today.

After harvesting one of plants in my other grow, I decided I’m going to try out lollipopping. I hate the small undergrowth. Also, no pruning during flower this time around. Found dried bananas and a few seeds on one of the bubblelicious I just harvested.

Edit: one of those fan leaves is about as big as my hand. I may have to get them into flower soon or it will be a jungle in here. Two more weeks in veg should be plenty.
 
Last edited:
justiceman

justiceman

2,719
263
Those plants are looking very happy now. This should turn out to be a sweet grow to watch. If you use GH 3 part you do need to pH when feeding with it but other then that IF your soil is teaming with microbes then they will do a good job on regulating soil pH for you when just using plain water. Either way keep doing what you are doing they look great.
 
MissBotany

MissBotany

567
143
Those plants are looking very happy now. This should turn out to be a sweet grow to watch. If you use GH 3 part you do need to pH when feeding with it but other then that IF your soil is teaming with microbes then they will do a good job on regulating soil pH for you when just using plain water. Either way keep doing what you are doing they look great.

Thanks! I am defiantly learning a lot from this site. For being a “weed,” cannabis sure is one of the more fastidious plants I’ve worked with.
 
K

kansabis

1,427
263
Yeah I'm not sure how fortified the espoma soil is but ffof usually is good without needing nutes anywhere from 3-6 weeks of veg and usually no pH issues but depending on water source and nutes makes it a case by case basis. Also those qb LEDs are so efficient I swear they can cause the plants to use up the available nutes quicker than normal.
 
MissBotany

MissBotany

567
143
After after feeding, new and existing growth does fine then after a few days the issue appears. I rotated the plants because it appears the leaves that receive the highest light intensity are showing the defecieny/excess.

Increased rate of photosynthesis = increased nutrient uptake which could either mean they are getting too many nutrients or not enough. If the leaves that are now receiving the highest PAR become effected then I’ll know it’s because the lights are too close, again. However, I can’t raise the lights up any higher. I’ll have to get them moved into my other tent (which is occupied for another week or two).

Here’s a picture after I rotated the pots. The damaged leaves are now receiving lower intensity light and the healthy leaves are now in the highest PAR “footprint,” receiving the most intense light.
 
RHINObeast

RHINObeast

805
143
After after feeding, new and existing growth does fine then after a few days the issue appears. I rotated the plants because it appears the leaves that receive the highest light intensity are showing the defecieny/excess.

Increased rate of photosynthesis = increased nutrient uptake which could either mean they are getting too many nutrients or not enough. If the leaves that are now receiving the highest PAR become effected then I’ll know it’s because the lights are too close, again. However, I can’t raise the lights up any higher. I’ll have to get them moved into my other tent (which is occupied for another week or two).

Here’s a picture after I rotated the pots. The damaged leaves are now receiving lower intensity light and the healthy leaves are now in the highest PAR “footprint,” receiving the most intense light.
Do you spill water on the leaves when you feed just curious?
 
MissBotany

MissBotany

567
143
I usually always get a few droplets on the leaves and wipe it off. I’m just kind of at a loss.
 
justiceman

justiceman

2,719
263
hmmmmmmm. Could you tell us the ingredients in your potting soil as well as how much and how often you are feeding them gh 3 part? Also are you using tap water?

They still look nice and green so it's definitely not N. Seems like a P deficiency but I'm not positive on that and if it is I'm not sure why yet. I'm wondering if it's locked out or if there's just not enough there.
 
MissBotany

MissBotany

567
143
I used espoma organic potting soil (blend of sphagnum peat moss, peat humus and perlite that has been enriched with Myco-tone and fortified with worm castings). According Espoma website, myco-tone is proprietary blend of 11 different strains of mycorrhizae.

I feed about once week and water as needed, sometimes once a week and sometimes I go the whole week without watering because the soil seems to never dry out(one of the “benefits” of this myco-tone).

I use tap water and have to pH it down (pH after I add nutrients) because it’s very alkaline. At first I thought my pH was to too high and the roots weren’t able to take in the nutrients so I lowered my pH to somewhere between 6.0-6.5. I don’t have an pH meter so I just use the color chart. I seriously feel that all my issues start with the soil. I really want to repot these in FFOF. I found a garden center near me that sells it....hmmm if they don’t improve by Friday, I’m repotting!

I feed all three parts (gro, micro and bloom) -I followed the aggressive vegetative growth application this most recent feed on Thursday.
 
Last edited:
justiceman

justiceman

2,719
263
I believe you are correct about the issue all starting with the soil. Sounds like that "soil" doesn't have much food to offer. In my opinion it's nowhere near comparable to the diversity of ingredients in Ocean Forest. Only peat moss, peat humus, perlite, and worms castings. A decent base mix for seedlings and young ones but that's about it. Aside from the worm castings it's basically at the level of a hydroponic medium. I'd imagine those who use it most likely amend the mix with additional organic inputs like blood meal, bone meal, alfalfa meal, bat guano and kelp meal, to name a few.

You can definitely grow them in this mix though. Just know that your input of liquid nutrients and the pH of your feed solution are more important with this soilless mix than when using a good soil with diverse organic material and biological life like Ocean Forest.
 
MissBotany

MissBotany

567
143
I believe you are correct about the issue all starting with the soil. Sounds like that "soil" doesn't have much food to offer. In my opinion it's nowhere near comparable to the diversity of ingredients in Ocean Forest. Only peat moss, peat humus, perlite, and worms castings. A decent base mix for seedlings and young ones but that's about it. Aside from the worm castings it's basically at the level of a hydroponic medium. I'd imagine those who use it most likely amend the mix with additional organic inputs like blood meal, bone meal, alfalfa meal, bat guano and kelp meal, to name a few.

You can definitely grow them in this mix though. Just know that your input of liquid nutrients and the pH of your feed solution are more important with this soilless mix than when using a good soil with diverse organic material and biological life like Ocean Forest.


Thanks for your input! What do you think about feeding them a small application of the nutrients during each watering then stick to the regular application for their weekly feeding. I just feel like these are hungry plants and they are synthesizing nutrients faster than I am proving them. Plus I agree with what kansbis said about these quantum boards being very efficient. I really feel that photosynthesis is accelerated hence the increase of nutrient uptake.
 
Ar.BsG

Ar.BsG

908
143
Thanks for your input! What do you think about feeding them a small application of the nutrients during each watering then stick to the regular application for their weekly feeding. I just feel like these are hungry plants and they are synthesizing nutrients faster than I am proving them. Plus I agree with what kansbis said about these quantum boards being very efficient. I really feel that photosynthesis is accelerated hence the increase of nutrient uptake.
I've reused my old soil before,and did small feedings every water till I got slightly noticeable yellow tips then stared a water,feed,water,feed schedule
 
CrimsonEcho

CrimsonEcho

Self-Proclaimed Don Quixote
Supporter
2,430
263
Thanks for your input! What do you think about feeding them a small application of the nutrients during each watering then stick to the regular application for their weekly feeding. I just feel like these are hungry plants and they are synthesizing nutrients faster than I am proving them. Plus I agree with what kansbis said about these quantum boards being very efficient. I really feel that photosynthesis is accelerated hence the increase of nutrient uptake.

Hi miss, you wrote that you are phing your water at 6.0-6.5, i have been told that it is low, it needs to be at 6.8, also imo you don’t really have to ph when in soil, my tap water comes out at 7.2 and after i aerate it it climbs up to 8, also when i forgot to aerate the water to dissipate chlorine i use bottled water with 7.8-8 ph. You are using a mycorrhizae product are you doing microbe innoculations as well? Maybe an aact couple of times? When your soil is alive, ph is not that important ime.
B96E9A8E-211A-4A95-B993-661E69726A39.gif
 
justiceman

justiceman

2,719
263
Thanks for your input! What do you think about feeding them a small application of the nutrients during each watering then stick to the regular application for their weekly feeding. I just feel like these are hungry plants and they are synthesizing nutrients faster than I am proving them. Plus I agree with what kansbis said about these quantum boards being very efficient. I really feel that photosynthesis is accelerated hence the increase of nutrient uptake.
I like that approach. It’s hard to say how much a plant needs since there are so many variables with enviornment but increasing the food little by little until you hit the sweet spot is part of the learning curve when it comes to soilless/hydro type mediums. It’s a much safer idea than bombarding them with a strong feed.

Hi miss, you wrote that you are phing your water at 6.0-6.5, i have been told that it is low, it needs to be at 6.8, also imo you don’t really have to ph when in soil, my tap water comes out at 7.2 and after i aerate it it climbs up to 8, also when i forgot to aerate the water to dissipate chlorine i use bottled water with 7.8-8 ph. You are using a mycorrhizae product are you doing microbe innoculations as well? Maybe an aact couple of times? When your soil is alive, ph is not that important ime.
View attachment 804831
Yup. With fertile balanced organic soil you don’t really need to check pH or add additional nutrients. However I believe in MissBotany’s case the “soil” that was used isn’t truly soil but actually what is called a soilless medium. It’s ment to be flexible. It’s up to the gardener to amend it into a soil or to use it as a hybrid hydro medium. I really dislike how some companys label bags of perlite and peat as soil just because they added earth worm castings. It’s just not enough diversity to be true living soil by itself IMO.
 
Top Bottom